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A Proper Uppercut posted:Soooo I'm not a woodworker, (though the few times I have worked with wood I loved it), kind of at the other end of the spectrum (machinist). Do the saw blades get sharpened after they come off the waterjet or are they just sent out? Is it even necessary to sharpen them after the waterjet?
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Aug 20, 2018 18:59
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Picked up this gorgeous Stanley No. 5 in Edinburgh on vacation Looks drat near brand new, all the parts moved, not a speck of rust on on the sole.
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Aug 20, 2018 19:16
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Koth posted:Do the saw blades get sharpened after they come off the waterjet or are they just sent out? Is it even necessary to sharpen them after the waterjet? We just cut the blanks, not the teeth. I'm not actually even sure how they put the teeth on, I'm guessing they have a machine set up to machine the teeth on the blanks. The plane blades we are doing, they are also just blanks. They still take then back and harden and grind them.
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Aug 20, 2018 19:46
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I bought a couple old plywood glulam beams off craigslist that I want to join to make a woodworking bench top. They're 6' long, 14" wide, and 3.5" high each. The grain runs length-wise and they're heavy as gently caress (80? lbs each, pure guess) so I don't think just glue would do it. I'm thinking of using 3/4" dowels to join them. How many dowels should I consider using, and how deep into each beam should they go? I think I'm going to have to make my own dowel centers.
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Aug 20, 2018 20:31
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Dowels don't give great glue adhesion, because either the dowel or the wood it's holding is end grain at every point. Biscuits would be better, if you can route a slot in each board. Biscuits also have the advantage over dowels that they're continuous, whereas with dowels you have to worry about getting the holes exactly lined up with each other. With the slots, so long as they're the same distance from the edge you'll be fine, and you can have some slop in the slots (or just slot the entire length of the board). But honestly, the dowels/biscuits aren't going to add as much strength as you might think. A properly-glued face joint is really quite strong. Just make sure the faces are flat and parallel, and clamp them properly. I'm not saying don't do the dowels/biscuits, but they're more useful for helping you keep the two boards aligned than they are for adding strength. (consequently, you don't need very many of them, and they don't have to be especially deep)
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Aug 20, 2018 20:55
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Koth posted:Do the saw blades get sharpened after they come off the waterjet or are they just sent out? Is it even necessary to sharpen them after the waterjet?
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Aug 20, 2018 21:07
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This is what they use, or an equivalent, to punch the teeth. I would imagine they use an automatic grinder to sharpen them. I had a chance to buy a notcher for $200 at an antique mall once, but I couldn't justify it. After a few times seeing it there, I finally talked myself into buying it to restore and maybe sell, I went back to find it had sold.
One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Aug 20, 2018 |
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Aug 20, 2018 21:41
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keep it down up there! posted:Last week Matthias Wandel posted a video that has was moving provinces and was selling a few of his tools. That is so cool. I have about an 8h drive each way and I was so close to putting in a bid on his quickset tenon jig or the first box joint jig (both of which I already have my own builds of) just to go meet him and have a piece of history. Matthias was a huge influence in me getting into woodworking, and I've been watching his videos for over 10 years. Getting the bandsaw is incredible.
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Aug 20, 2018 22:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Dowels don't give great glue adhesion, because either the dowel or the wood it's holding is end grain at every point. Biscuits would be better, if you can route a slot in each board. Biscuits also have the advantage over dowels that they're continuous, whereas with dowels you have to worry about getting the holes exactly lined up with each other. With the slots, so long as they're the same distance from the edge you'll be fine, and you can have some slop in the slots (or just slot the entire length of the board). In that case, my problem is that these beams aren't face-jointed even a little bit. They're relatively straight, but they're rough. What are my options here? The tools I have available are a circular saw and a router (go at it with a long flush trim bit?)
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Aug 20, 2018 23:58
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You can use the circular saw and a straight guide to get a good joint. Might need some light planing or sanding. Make your cuts and check the fit. If you apply the straight edge to the opposite side of the saw for each piece, you'd correct for any nonsquare in your saw and keep your top surfaces parallel. Edit - missed the 3.5in depth. Good luck bred fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 00:49
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Ben Nerevarine posted:In that case, my problem is that these beams aren't face-jointed even a little bit. They're relatively straight, but they're rough. What are my options here? The tools I have available are a circular saw and a router (go at it with a long flush trim bit?) Face-jointing a 3.5"-wide board with limited tools is gonna be tricky. Your best option would probably be to find someone with a jointer that they're willing to let you use. Second-best honestly would be to get a hand plane. Unless your circular saw can cut 3.5" deep and perfectly straight it's not going to joint these boards for you. And while routers can, with a router table, be jury-rigged into crappy jointers, I don't think you should be playing around with 3.5"-long router bits, assuming such even exist. They sound like a high-speed accident waiting to happen. I have considered trying a setup with a router table where I do one pass with no offset in the fence to flatten a bit over half of the face, then flip the board over, offset the fence, and remove the other half. That'd "merely" require a >1.75" bit. But I've never tried it and have no idea how well it would work.
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Aug 21, 2018 00:49
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 Picked this up off the side of the road. It's way more saw than I have need or room for at the moment but for free couldn't pass it up. The fence is in my car still it seems straight and solid the top just needs a little TLC.
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Aug 21, 2018 00:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Face-jointing a 3.5"-wide board with limited tools is gonna be tricky. Your best option would probably be to find someone with a jointer that they're willing to let you use. Second-best honestly would be to get a hand plane. Unless your circular saw can cut 3.5" deep and perfectly straight it's not going to joint these boards for you. And while routers can, with a router table, be jury-rigged into crappy jointers, I don't think you should be playing around with 3.5"-long router bits, assuming such even exist. They sound like a high-speed accident waiting to happen. You'd need a beam saw to get any decent cut for the lvl's I'd imagine. You think you'd even want to put one through a planer with all the glue in it?
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Aug 21, 2018 01:07
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I am looking to teach a class on wood species and and identification. I would love to have samples on hand so people can get a feel and look but all I can find are $100 sample packs which is way more than I want to spend. I know you can get veneer sample packs for half that but that doesn't really give you the same feel of weight, hardness, end grain, etc. Does anyone know of a cheap source for domestic/exotic samples? Would I be best to call around to some lumber yards and see if I can get some scrap pieces to label?
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Aug 21, 2018 01:09
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:You'd need a beam saw to get any decent cut for the lvl's I'd imagine. You think you'd even want to put one through a planer with all the glue in it? I admit I've never worked with LVL, nor tried to run plywood through my thickness planer, which is the closest analogue I can think of to trying to joint it (I don't own a jointer). Does the glue gum things up? JEEVES420 posted:I am looking to teach a class on wood species and and identification. I would love to have samples on hand so people can get a feel and look but all I can find are $100 sample packs which is way more than I want to spend. I know you can get veneer sample packs for half that but that doesn't really give you the same feel of weight, hardness, end grain, etc. Does anyone know of a cheap source for domestic/exotic samples? Would I be best to call around to some lumber yards and see if I can get some scrap pieces to label? My local lumberyard has a big box of scraps that they sell by the pound. It's a pretty ridiculous price to pay for any significant amount of lumber, but if you just need small samples it might be worthwhile. There's also stuff like turning blanks, for the more exotic woods.
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Aug 21, 2018 01:16
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Ben Nerevarine posted:I bought a couple old plywood glulam beams off craigslist that I want to join to make a woodworking bench top. They're 6' long, 14" wide, and 3.5" high each. The grain runs length-wise and they're heavy as gently caress (80? lbs each, pure guess) so I don't think just glue would do it. I'm thinking of using 3/4" dowels to join them. How many dowels should I consider using, and how deep into each beam should they go? If you were determined to try and get a glued joint, you could run a router with a big straight bit as deep as you can from one side using the factory edge of a piece of good plywood as a guide/fence. Then cut off most of the waste with your circ saw and use an equally large flush trim from the other side to ride against the flat made by the straight bit. You need a big ole router and light passes and some good bits that are probably going to get trashed by all that glue. Are they actually plywood where the grain alternates by 90 degrees every layer? TooMuchAbstraction posted:I admit I've never worked with LVL, nor tried to run plywood through my thickness planer, which is the closest analogue I can think of to trying to joint it (I don't own a jointer). Does the glue gum things up? Edit: Harry Potter on Ice is right. You might be able to find a millwork shop or lumberyard with a huge straight line rip saw that can cut 3.5" thick that is glue-line capable and there is actually a small chance they will do it and won't laugh at you. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 01:21
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:You'd need a beam saw to get any decent cut for the lvl's I'd imagine. You think you'd even want to put one through a planer with all the glue in it? Right, I wouldn't run that through HSS. In his shoes, I'd maybe load up on clamps and a biscuit joiner....I reckon a 100 pack of biscuits might just get it done. Or maybe this is the place for pocket screws, but that seems rather satanic in this application.
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Aug 21, 2018 01:26
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Hypnolobster posted:That is so cool. I have about an 8h drive each way and I was so close to putting in a bid on his quickset tenon jig or the first box joint jig (both of which I already have my own builds of) just to go meet him and have a piece of history. Matthias was a huge influence in me getting into woodworking, and I've been watching his videos for over 10 years. Getting the bandsaw is incredible. Thanks! He's been a huge influence on me as well, and it was half the reason I bought the saw was just to get a chance to meet him. I was a bit worried he would be all business and just make the sale and that would be it. But that wasn't the case luckily. Very nice guy. Funny enough I bought the band saw plans a few months ago. So I may still get around to making a second one for fun. I have the box joint plans as well I need to get around making.
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Aug 21, 2018 01:37
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keep it down up there! posted:Last week Matthias Wandel posted a video that has was moving provinces and was selling a few of his tools. That's pretty awesome actually. Not previously heard of the guy but checking his videos it looks like he's made some seriously cool stuff. Can't imagine what it's like getting to use a tool like that from the person who inspired you in the first place. Wish I could find my granddads old knife to whittle with.
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Aug 21, 2018 02:48
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keep it down up there! posted:Last week Matthias Wandel posted a video that has was moving provinces and was selling a few of his tools. That's cool. Interestingly, and I guess unsurprisingly, home-made tools have next to no resale value. Of course you know the Wandel one is likely going to be good but who knows about one made by some rando. I've seen 2 or 3 home-made saws come up for sale in the Vancouver area on craigslist and despite looking totally fine in the pictures they always get listed for crazy cheap prices and I've been sorely tempted. I'm talking <$50 when the average 14" saw gets listed for $300 here.
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Aug 21, 2018 03:50
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One Legged Ninja posted:This is what they use, or an equivalent, to punch the teeth. I would imagine they use an automatic grinder to sharpen them. I had a chance to buy a notcher for $200 at an antique mall once, but I couldn't justify it. After a few times seeing it there, I finally talked myself into buying it to restore and maybe sell, I went back to find it had sold. That's interesting. There is a discussion going on at the Sawmill Creek forums about whether these hand saw manufacturers hand file the teeth to sharpen them or use a machine.
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Aug 21, 2018 05:03
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Thanks all for the replies! I'm waiting to hear back from a friend who has a jointer but when he hears it's glulam...Kaiser Schnitzel posted:As others have pointed out, you're going to have a very hard time getting a good glue line (and anybody who likes their joiner knives isn't going to let you run gluelam over it), so why not just put a cross piece or two in the frame under the top and screw them all to the bench frame instead of trying to join them to each other? I'll probably just do this.
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Aug 21, 2018 05:28
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You all got a recommendation for a corded random orbital sander? Looking for one in the $100 or less range, I am not gonna be using it constantly or anything, low volume work, so am fine with going with a slightly cheaper one as long as its not crap. Mostly am just using this for wood prep prior to finishing / painting, not doing any stripping or refurb work with it.
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Aug 22, 2018 00:07
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That Works posted:You all got a recommendation for a corded random orbital sander? Looking for one in the $100 or less range, I am not gonna be using it constantly or anything, low volume work, so am fine with going with a slightly cheaper one as long as its not crap. Mostly am just using this for wood prep prior to finishing / painting, not doing any stripping or refurb work with it. My Milwaukee has been a champ for doing stripping and refurb work on a century old house. Great dust collection too. $69 at HD.
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Aug 22, 2018 00:11
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All of the big name brands make a great 5" random orbit under $100. Got Dewalts at work, Makita at home and by brother has a Milwaukee that he's been stripping painted doors with. All been great. My Makita has the worst dust collection port (although it works very well) because it's a weird size and you have to shim it with tape and use a euro style hose. The others are a little more normal.
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Aug 22, 2018 00:40
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Is there an advantage to go with a variable speed one vs fixed? Seems like DeWalt and a few others have fairly identical ones that flex up and down on price point on variable vs fixed speed alone.
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Aug 22, 2018 00:50
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That Works posted:Is there an advantage to go with a variable speed one vs fixed? Seems like DeWalt and a few others have fairly identical ones that flex up and down on price point on variable vs fixed speed alone. Yes. You never want a fixed speed random orbital sander, imo. Or belt sander. The old style block sanders 1/4" sheet or 1/2" sheet, sure.
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Aug 22, 2018 01:07
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That Works posted:You all got a recommendation for a corded random orbital sander? Looking for one in the $100 or less range, I am not gonna be using it constantly or anything, low volume work, so am fine with going with a slightly cheaper one as long as its not crap. Mostly am just using this for wood prep prior to finishing / painting, not doing any stripping or refurb work with it.
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Aug 22, 2018 01:34
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Been looking at some different woods to use for carving and some finishers to go with them. Do woods react differently to different finishers? Are some finishers recommended more for soft woods than other? Or can I just generally use whatever?
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Aug 22, 2018 02:52
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That Works posted:You all got a recommendation for a corded random orbital sander? Looking for one in the $100 or less range, I am not gonna be using it constantly or anything, low volume work, so am fine with going with a slightly cheaper one as long as its not crap. Mostly am just using this for wood prep prior to finishing / painting, not doing any stripping or refurb work with it. I love my bosch orbital, put it through a decent amount of work in a short period of time sanding down a boat multiple times. The variable speed is really nice and actually really useful. It's extremely clear when I'm going too hard on something and really nice to be able to dial it down real light
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Aug 22, 2018 05:41
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Stultus Maximus posted:My Milwaukee has been a champ for doing stripping and refurb work on a century old house. Great dust collection too. $69 at HD. This is mine too. No complaints. I use it a lot.
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Aug 22, 2018 06:16
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To give myself a break from the big table I needed a smaller side project. Enter, this plant stand.  I didn’t think too much about the dimensions - I was just trying to make the most of the QLD walnut leftovers I had. It turned out a bit of an awkward size; not quite a occasional table, not quite a plant stand. Should look ok with a large enough plant on it hopefully. It was fun working with non-90 degree angles. I just chose something that looked good and used a bevel gauge for everything, which made things surprisingly easy and I never had to think hard about it. Everything was finished with a few coats of shellac, and the top also got 2 coats of water-based poly for a bit of extra durability.
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Aug 22, 2018 11:03
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I'm going to order some Waney Edge (live edge) english larch to clad an 8ft x 8ft wall on a framed garden building. Whats going to be the best type of treatment/preservers for it? I'll do all sides and ends before fixing, but I'm imagining a normal shed/garden building stain or anything with a colour is going to look bad with the bark edge.
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Aug 22, 2018 11:29
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Thrasophius posted:Been looking at some different woods to use for carving and some finishers to go with them. Do woods react differently to different finishers? Are some finishers recommended more for soft woods than other? Or can I just generally use whatever? They absolutely react differently. Softwoods are going to absorb more of the finish and requires more applications but deeper the finish longer it lasts IMO. You can pretty much use whatever you want and it is best to play with some scrap of the same wood to see what finish gives you the results your looking for.
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Aug 22, 2018 15:57
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Granite Octopus posted:To give myself a break from the big table I needed a smaller side project. Enter, this plant stand. That looks awesome. How long did it take? I noticed the flat corners too, did you do that or was the wooden planks already like that? JEEVES420 posted:They absolutely react differently. Softwoods are going to absorb more of the finish and requires more applications but deeper the finish longer it lasts IMO. You can pretty much use whatever you want and it is best to play with some scrap of the same wood to see what finish gives you the results your looking for. Thanks for the tips, I'll make sure I keep a scrap of wood to test stuff on first. Generally speaking how many applications should I be going for on softwoods and hardwoods? I'm just working with pine at the moment as it's the only thing I can find readily available to me at the moment.
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Aug 23, 2018 03:13
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Granite Octopus posted:To give myself a break from the big table I needed a smaller side project. Enter, this plant stand. That looks great! I'd love to see some different style plants on it, something cascading could be interesting
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Aug 23, 2018 03:19
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Bought a cheap jointer and then made a little stand and extensions for it. The extensions are adjustable and it seems to be able to do 4' stock pretty well and much faster than I ever could.
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Aug 23, 2018 04:45
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Thrasophius posted:That looks awesome. How long did it take? I noticed the flat corners too, did you do that or was the wooden planks already like that? Thanks! Not sure what you mean by the flat corners - the chamfer on the edges of the top? They were just done with a block plane and careful chisel work on the very corners. I've been working on it for the past year or so, but the stock prep and joinery for the legs + aprons only took half a day maybe. The top probably half a day again cause I had to rip it in half and joint it. Then about 11 months of procrastination before applying some finish :P
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Aug 23, 2018 06:11
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Hi! I know almost nothing about woodworking. I acquired a piece of dried Ironwood (American Hornbeam) with a rubber foot for use as a walking/hiking stick. It is unfinished, so I wanted to do 2 things: 1. Apply a polish/varnish/coating to bring out the grain as well as make it more resilient to outdoor conditions. However, I'm not a big fan of the, I don't know exactly what its called, the coatings that are almost like plastic? I've seen it on walking sticks sold in stores, its the stuff that completely masks the feel of the wood. I am hoping for something that will retain at least some texture. One (ancient) forum I found suggested the following for a walking stick coating: Ancient Woodworking Forum posted:Mix equal parts of Spar varnish, Mineral spirits, and Boiled linseed oil. You have to hand rub this in and it is VERY messy. Then It takes at least a week for it to dry. Use 0000 steel-wool between coats. 3 coats is recommended. The last coat will take about a month to dry. 2. Apply a leather wrap/grip, as well as a loop of leather or rope for a handle. I have a drill press I can use to drill a hole through the head for the loop to go through. Bonus points if there's something I can put on the bottom that isn't the rubber tip of a cane, because it looks kinda lame 
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Aug 24, 2018 01:21
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Granite Octopus posted:Thanks! Not sure what you mean by the flat corners - the chamfer on the edges of the top? They were just done with a block plane and careful chisel work on the very corners. That's what I meant yes the chamfered edge, didn't know the technical name for it. For a moment I though all these pieces of work you guys have been posting all took about a year each. So it took maybe 2 days if you take out the procrastination. That's awesome, I'd love to be able to pump out some furniture like that one day on a weekend.
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Aug 24, 2018 01:27
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