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Cat Hatter posted:Also, does the "dimple the outer metal edge of the seal once installed with a hammer and punch" trick actually work, or is that one of those hillbilly tricks that does more harm than good? I've not seen it done on a seal but I've seen the same trick used on a bearing housing so many times.
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Aug 13, 2018 08:13
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anyone know if the HF series 2.0 toolchest accessories are compatible to mount on the older stuff? i still need one of these to add to my older 44"
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Aug 13, 2018 15:39
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BraveUlysses posted:anyone know if the HF series 2.0 toolchest accessories are compatible to mount on the older stuff? i still need one of these to add to my older 44" This might be a question you would throw on garagejournal.com
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Aug 13, 2018 17:34
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C-Bangin' it 
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Cat Hatter posted:So I have a press-fit axle shaft seal technically its the impeller shaft seal on a jet boat, but its the same thing only smaller that wandered out of the housing it was pressed into only a few hours of use after installation via hammer/socket. Before I put a new one in, is there any sealant/adhesive that would keep this from happening again? Preferably something from a national chain of auto parts stores (or possibly a Fastenal)? Needs to survive contact with aluminum, water, gear oil, grease, and possibly steel. slidebite posted:Is the body of the seal where it contacts the housing rubber or metal? Usually most imperial sized seals (but not always) are painted/coated steel which help with the interference fit. If the housing is slightly worn you might, maybe, be able to get a seal a couple thou larger on the OD, but I'd probably use some loctite cylindrical retaining compound. This. If you dont want to or cant get the right loctite compound, get "Red". Not knowing what your requirements for temp and what not are, check out: https://www.mcmaster.com/#retaining-compounds/=1e5nkcp
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Aug 14, 2018 22:04
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Press fit parts get Green Loctite.
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Aug 14, 2018 22:17
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I think it's Loctite 641 if you want to disassemble it again relatively simply, 638 as the "high strength" option. There's 603, which IIRC is thinner (good for relatively tight fits) and better for setting if things are a bit oily. Probably a couple of others, too.
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Aug 14, 2018 22:36
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InitialDave posted:I think it's Loctite 641 if you want to disassemble it again relatively simply, 638 as the "high strength" option. There's 603, which IIRC is thinner (good for relatively tight fits) and better for setting if things are a bit oily. Probably a couple of others, too. Loctite loves nothing more than making dozens of subtle variations on the same product. I ended up getting Loctite 680 because it is more tolerant of a gap, is oil resistant, and is the most readily available to me (via Amazon, because even Fastenal didn't stock anything locally and they wanted twice as much money). Also, if I'm reading the TDS right, it looks like there is a chart on page two that indicates a lower bond strength when using activator, even though that's counter-intuitive and the text indicates the opposite?
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Aug 15, 2018 01:57
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Don't bother with an activator on that stuff, it's not required on everything and loctite only makes their literature showing it to be consistent.
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Aug 15, 2018 05:32
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slidebite posted:Don't bother with an activator on that stuff, it's not required on everything and loctite only makes their literature showing it to be consistent. Well I already have some so I was trying to get more use out of it. Turns out all of this was a fool's errand anyway because the other end of the jet pump housing was destroyed when the bearing disintegrated from the water intrusion. I just finished ordering a new pump that already has the seal installed so hopefully I won't ever have a need to use the Loctite 680 I just bought (better to have it and not need it though).
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Aug 15, 2018 05:49
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Cat Hatter posted:Well I already have some so I was trying to get more use out of it. Turns out all of this was a fool's errand anyway because the other end of the jet pump housing was destroyed when the bearing disintegrated from the water intrusion. I just finished ordering a new pump that already has the seal installed so hopefully I won't ever have a need to use the Loctite 680 I just bought (better to have it and not need it though). Having it is insurance against ever needing it, in fact. Just don't misplace it, or you will need it the next day.
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Aug 15, 2018 06:25
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Raluek posted:Having it is insurance against ever needing it, in fact. Just don't misplace it, or you will need it the next day. By the same logic I'm not expecting any snow this winter now that I just fixed my snow blower and got a plow for my tractor.
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Aug 15, 2018 13:14
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I'm the guy that has 10 tubes/packets of opened dielectric grease.
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Aug 15, 2018 14:40
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Cat Hatter posted:So I have a press-fit axle shaft seal technically its the impeller shaft seal on a jet boat, but its the same thing only smaller that wandered out of the housing it was pressed into only a few hours of use after installation via hammer/socket. Before I put a new one in, is there any sealant/adhesive that would keep this from happening again? Preferably something from a national chain of auto parts stores (or possibly a Fastenal)? Needs to survive contact with aluminum, water, gear oil, grease, and possibly steel. Cat, did you get the seal from the OE manufacturer or is it an aftermarket? I've had tons of poo poo for Seadoo or Kawasaki boats not fit right that was third party, aka eBay parts. Seems like they can't read the engineering specs or test when they make the spares.
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Aug 15, 2018 17:28
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Colostomy Bag posted:I'm the guy that has 10 tubes/packets of opened dielectric grease. Buy a tube of Dow-Corning #10. More than you'll use in a normal lifetime, unless you're into oceanography.
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Aug 15, 2018 20:13
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sharkytm posted:Buy a tube of Dow-Corning #10. More than you'll use in a normal lifetime, unless you're into oceanography. Yeah, I'd lose that and have ten tubes of the stuff next to my 10mm sockets.
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Aug 15, 2018 20:17
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, I'd lose that and have ten tubes of the stuff next to my 10mm sockets. Organization will set you free! Of course, I'm with you on the dielectric grease, only with me, it's anti-sieze. I've got 3 cans of it, but can only ever find one at a time.
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Aug 15, 2018 21:18
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sharkytm posted:Organization will set you free! Of course, I picked the first thing out of my head. Also have the anti-sieze situation, uh probably a few cans of PB-Blaster, 4 qts of some transmission fluid I'll never need, a few ex girl friends, etc.
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Aug 15, 2018 21:45
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R-Type posted:Cat, did you get the seal from the OE manufacturer or is it an aftermarket? I've had tons of poo poo for Seadoo or Kawasaki boats not fit right that was third party, aka eBay parts. Seems like they can't read the engineering specs or test when they make the spares. Probably aftermarket. I've used this same rebuild kit before though where the seal actually worked and I was the part that failed (turns out the O ring that seals the jet pump cone is just a suggestion for water to stay out and still needs gasket maker). My working theory is that I didn't grease the shaft before installation last year (I honestly don't remember if I did or not) and that a mostly dry shaft spinning at 7k RPM caused enough friction to get the seal to wrench itself loose. Either way, the pump housing I just bought has all the seals/bearings installed so now I just need to see if my phantom machine shop still exists so I can get the shaft faced (  ) and then reassembly should be relatively straightforward.
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Aug 16, 2018 00:34
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I called an old geezer with an ad out for an antique bench vise. The ad was lacking in detail but I bought it sight unseen, since he seemed honest and all. Yesterday I took delivery, and it's a beast! Big and heavy, forged steel. The mating surfaces and screw are in great condition, and the rust seems cosmetic, though there are a couple of deep pits that may or may not get welded up. I've disassembled as far as I need to, the turning handle can stay in the screw for all I want to do with it - it will be a hammerite spray job and new grease, pretty much. Maybe the waffle pattern in the jaws might get a grind job as well if I feel like it.
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Aug 19, 2018 10:54
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Invalido posted:I called an old geezer with an ad out for an antique bench vise. The ad was lacking in detail but I bought it sight unseen, since he seemed honest and all. Yesterday I took delivery, and it's a beast! Big and heavy, forged steel. The mating surfaces and screw are in great condition, and the rust seems cosmetic, though there are a couple of deep pits that may or may not get welded up. I've disassembled as far as I need to, the turning handle can stay in the screw for all I want to do with it - it will be a hammerite spray job and new grease, pretty much. Maybe the waffle pattern in the jaws might get a grind job as well if I feel like it. Very nice. Hot wide are the jaws? Looks like a good 6+"? Is there a company name on it? The square bolt definitely shows it's old, and old vises are best. I restored a 1914 Reed 6" last year and it's a great vise. I used black and silver POR15 and that'll probably last longer than a spray. Keep us updated!
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Aug 19, 2018 11:51
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seminal Flu posted:Very nice. Hot wide are the jaws? Looks like a good 6+"? Is there a company name on it? The square bolt definitely shows it's old, and old vises are best. I restored a 1914 Reed 6" last year and it's a great vise. I used black and silver POR15 and that'll probably last longer than a spray. POR-15 will probably last longer than YOU. That’s good poo poo. Also, I’m jealous of ya’ll in the real world with a used and antique tool market. All we have here is pawn shops full of stolen craftsman junk.
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Aug 19, 2018 11:54
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Seminal Flu posted:Very nice. Hot wide are the jaws? Looks like a good 6+"? Is there a company name on it? The square bolt definitely shows it's old, and old vises are best. I restored a 1914 Reed 6" last year and it's a great vise. I used black and silver POR15 and that'll probably last longer than a spray. I haven't wire brushed it properly yet but I can't seem to find any markings at all on it. Since it's forged rather than cast it makes sense it doesn't have those big embossed letters, but I can't seem to find anything stamped either. As for the paint I might try brush rather than spray. Turns out there's exactly one vendor in this country that sells POR-15 paint. It gets great reviews from all his customers and people in AI keep raving about it. Expensive though! Does it keep well in the can? The quart can isn't that much more than the pint (i figure the 4 ounce can is on the small side and it's out of stock anyways). MrYenko posted:Also, I’m jealous of ya’ll in the real world with a used and antique tool market. All we have here is pawn shops full of stolen craftsman junk.
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Aug 19, 2018 16:05
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Invalido posted:The jaws are 165 mm or thereabout, and open up just shy of 300 mm. I've been browsing CL and estate sales, and it seems like people have unfortunately wised up about the value of real vices and anvils. I remember people throwing them out less than 10 years ago
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Aug 19, 2018 19:32
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I've heard that por15 actually doesn't keep in the can and once it's opened it's gotta get used. No first hand experience though.
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Aug 19, 2018 21:44
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POR-15 doesn't handle sunlight.
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Aug 19, 2018 21:56
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always be closing posted:I've heard that por15 actually doesn't keep in the can and once it's opened it's gotta get used. No first hand experience though. POR-15 cures based on humidity, so once you open the can the trapped air humidity will cause it to cure even if you close it back up. You can mitigate it by storing the cans upside down so the film of cured paint is not in the way. I've also heard of storing it in ziploc bags with the air squeezed out, but that seems like an accident waiting to happen. Kafouille fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Aug 19, 2018 |
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Aug 19, 2018 22:05
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Two things come to mind. You only need to displace the air. If you have welding gas handy you could displace the atmosphere since it's heavier than air. It would pool in the can similar to a liquid. The less affordable but also workable option is to put a couple of ounces of LN2 in there. Sit the lid loosely on top. As the LN2 evaporates it expands and displaces the air. A couple of ounces isn't really enough to freeze over a can of it, either.
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Aug 19, 2018 22:30
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Use cheap glass marbles to displace remaining liquid to the top of the container, then seal.
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Aug 19, 2018 23:06
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As with all paint cans, a layer of cling film over the can before putting the lid on can help a lot with getting it off.
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Aug 19, 2018 23:45
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I bought the six pack of 2 oz cans, and that stuff goes faaaaar. I think one can was enough for two coats on an axle.
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Aug 19, 2018 23:51
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This stuff is supposed to prevent paint in cans from going off. http://www.bloxygen.com/
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Aug 20, 2018 04:35
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Colostomy Bag posted:POR-15 doesn't handle sunlight. Huh. Turns out it doesn't. That's no good for my intended application then, this vise is going on a workbench outside. It's under a roof but there's direct sunlight. I'll slather it in conventional rust protection paint and call it good.
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Aug 20, 2018 06:07
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You should be able to paint over the POR-15 to protect it from UV.
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Aug 20, 2018 08:42
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InitialDave posted:You should be able to paint over the POR-15 to protect it from UV. This is the preferred method. POR base, then topcoat. They even make a UV blocking clear if you want to keep the look of the POR.
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Aug 20, 2018 15:19
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Anyone got any recommendations for an automotive multimeter? i.e. something that does something special that bog standard multimeters don't do? Also: one for the Brits - where do you get your spools of wire from? Nothignfancy, just what you'd use to plumb in a couple of LEDS, dashcam power supply, etc
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Aug 20, 2018 17:10
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spog posted:Also: one for the Brits - where do you get your spools of wire from? Nothignfancy, just what you'd use to plumb in a couple of LEDS, dashcam power supply, etc Steal it from work? Good question and I'd like the answer too as I've never actually bought it, just robbed it off young junkyard cars and I'd like to actually build a thing in the near future.
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Aug 20, 2018 21:13
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Vehicle Wiring Products is probably a good place to start. Multimeters, not sure what the latest stuff is, but I use a UNI-T one that I think has an rpm function built into it.
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Aug 20, 2018 21:50
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A thermocouple or temperature probe could be handy for measuring the temp of things like radiator, coolant, etc. Otherwise with everything being fancy digital interfaces and buses these days I can't imagine much more than a basic voltage, current, and maybe frequency measurement is all you need with a multimeter and car. I'd get a cheapo digital meter and put the saved money towards a nicer code reader, OBD/CAN bus interface, etc.
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Aug 20, 2018 22:12
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Can anyone help identify this logo? It's the manufacturer logo on an air compressor my friend picked it up recently. He was told it's probably mid-late 80s vintage.
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Aug 21, 2018 00:39
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I didn't know Adidas made air compressors
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Aug 21, 2018 00:42
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