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Thrasophius posted:That's what I meant yes the chamfered edge, didn't know the technical name for it. For a moment I though all these pieces of work you guys have been posting all took about a year each. So it took maybe 2 days if you take out the procrastination. That's awesome, I'd love to be able to pump out some furniture like that one day on a weekend. Which part holds you back?
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Aug 24, 2018 01:32
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Annath posted:Hi! For the bottom, the brass part of a 12ga shotgun shell makes a nice foot, or just leave it wood.
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Aug 24, 2018 01:39
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:1. For better or worse, hornbeam doesn’t have much grain for you bring out. The mix you describe is very similar to Danish Oil which is an oil/varnish blend and readily available at big box stores. To avoid the plasticy look it would be good option, or just a few coats of plain boiled linseed oil. Let it dry a day or two between coats, and rubbing between coats with 0000 steel wool or a maroon scotchbrite pad is good too. Thanks for the tips! This is what it looks like, I guess it isn't the grainiest (  ) but its alright:
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Aug 24, 2018 01:50
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Which part holds you back? I think he's in Japan. I'm assuming he's in an apartment/mansion of some sort in a 1LDK or 2LDK probably.
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Aug 24, 2018 01:51
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Phone posted:I think he's in Japan. I'm assuming he's in an apartment/mansion of some sort in a 1LDK or 2LDK probably. Oh so then actually getting wood is the first hard thing probably, and then space, everything
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Aug 24, 2018 02:14
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Annath posted:Hi! The plastic coating you see is generally from polyurethane or other urethane finishes. If you stick to pure oil finishes (tung oil, boiled linseed oil, mineral oil) you won't get that kind of texture. Make sure to look at what's actually in the finish you buy, because companies like to sneak in polyurethane in finishes that loudly proclaim themselves to be (whatever) oil. Applying finishes is pretty much:
quote:2. Apply a leather wrap/grip, as well as a loop of leather or rope for a handle. I have a drill press I can use to drill a hole through the head for the loop to go through.
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Aug 24, 2018 02:16
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Annath posted:Thanks for the tips!
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Aug 24, 2018 03:01
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I would put linseed oil on that, if anything at all. It's not gonna rot like a fencepost from hiking with it.
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Aug 24, 2018 03:13
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Which part holds you back? Like Phone said I'm in Japan at the moment and I'm only here for another year so buying equipment and setting up would be a waste of money and any furniture I make I'd have to leave behind. Also like you mentioned it's space too. My apartment is actually pretty size-able but I don't have a garage or anything to set up in. So for now I'm just sticking to the simple stuff and just carving simple stuff with knives. Once I'm back home I can hopefully buy some more equipment and really get into it.
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Aug 24, 2018 06:45
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Annath posted:2. Apply a leather wrap/grip, as well as a loop of leather or rope for a handle. I have a drill press I can use to drill a hole through the head for the loop to go through. I've been watching Man at Arms, a blacksmithing channel on YouTube, lately, and they use some kind of hot glue on their leather wrapped hilts.
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Aug 24, 2018 15:32
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Thrasophius posted:Like Phone said I'm in Japan at the moment and I'm only here for another year so buying equipment and setting up would be a waste of money and any furniture I make I'd have to leave behind. Also like you mentioned it's space too. My apartment is actually pretty size-able but I don't have a garage or anything to set up in. So for now I'm just sticking to the simple stuff and just carving simple stuff with knives. Once I'm back home I can hopefully buy some more equipment and really get into it. Potentially you could accumulate a small collection of hand tools for woodworking, that would pack OK and be shippable for not an outrageous amount? Japan is renowned for its hand-tool woodworking traditions, so there's bound to be places you can get e.g. small pull saws, planes, chisels, and the like.
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Aug 24, 2018 17:49
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Leperflesh posted:Potentially you could accumulate a small collection of hand tools for woodworking, that would pack OK and be shippable for not an outrageous amount? Japan is renowned for its hand-tool woodworking traditions, so there's bound to be places you can get e.g. small pull saws, planes, chisels, and the like. yea it might be the time to get into some crazy hand tool joinery
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Aug 24, 2018 18:17
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Japanese joinery is mesmerizing
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Aug 24, 2018 19:29
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I'm not as familiar with Japanese joinery but I've seen some wildddd Korean joinery that is incredibly inspiring
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Aug 24, 2018 19:39
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This is a faaaaaantastic book with lots about all those funny joints and their use in furniture. https://www.amazon.com/Domestic-Fur...G1CHJ7TTD7TK2VE
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Aug 24, 2018 19:53
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A few links to peruse, probably similar to Korean. https://www.archdaily.com/796918/these-mesmerizing-gifs-illustrate-the-art-of-traditional-japanese-wood-joinery https://www.amazon.com/Art-Japanese-Joinery-Kiyosi-Seike/dp/0834815168
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Aug 24, 2018 19:54
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This is a faaaaaantastic book with lots about all those funny joints and their use in furniture. djfooboo posted:A few links to peruse, probably similar to Korean. quoting so I can find them later, wow thank you. I love those gifs
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Aug 24, 2018 20:01
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I can't fathom how you manage the precision needed to get a snug fit with such complex shapes. Then again, I've yet to manage a halfway-decent-looking dovetail, so I clearly lack practice.
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Aug 24, 2018 20:15
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I can't fathom how you manage the precision needed to get a snug fit with such complex shapes. All I can think when looking at those is where can I get the Festool Joiner bits for those.
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Aug 24, 2018 22:38
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I picked up some Disston D-23s for a buck each. And some carving tools. Whole set for $90. That is dust on the top gauge, not rust.  Just in time for my shop that is getting siding right now. 
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Aug 24, 2018 23:09
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Saw this a couple years ago... seems appropriate now given the recent discussion on joinery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPUPyuz_ink
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Aug 25, 2018 01:25
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The Locator posted:Saw this a couple years ago... seems appropriate now given the recent discussion on joinery. 
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Aug 25, 2018 01:33
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The Locator posted:Saw this a couple years ago... seems appropriate now given the recent discussion on joinery. I remember thinking the first time I saw this, how much is this them showing off, and how much is it actual practical techniques that were historically used? It's pretty nuts, to me, to imagine going to this much time and effort to join two beams end-to-end. There's got to be simpler solutions that just use more material, right? Like, sister two shorter beams on either side which are fastened to the original beams with wedge tenons. This isn't one of those cases where you need complex joinery to avoid having to use nails on a metal-poor island.
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Aug 25, 2018 01:37
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I think without nails you'd get a lot more strength out of the beam this way than if you tried to sister on a smaller piece. Like sistering boards on does almost nothing structurally right? edit: google is giving me a lot of info about load bearing and deflection https://www.engineersedge.com/beam_bending/beam_bending1.htm Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Aug 25, 2018 |
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Aug 25, 2018 01:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I remember thinking the first time I saw this, how much is this them showing off, and how much is it actual practical techniques that were historically used? It's pretty nuts, to me, to imagine going to this much time and effort to join two beams end-to-end. There's got to be simpler solutions that just use more material, right? Like, sister two shorter beams on either side which are fastened to the original beams with wedge tenons. This isn't one of those cases where you need complex joinery to avoid having to use nails on a metal-poor island. I think it’s a mix of observation bias with everyone wanting to show off the real cool stuff, and practical concerns of all the different joints being used in different places based on what the loads are. iirc they didn’t use nails because wood joints are much more durable under seismic stress than nails are.
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Aug 25, 2018 02:33
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With the disclaimer that I know less than nothing about that style of joinery, it wouldn't surprise me if that thing is gonna be sitting on top of a vertical post with that wedge thing going down through both. That would still be strong as gently caress compared to just butting two beams together on the same post. Or maybe that thing's gonna hang out unsupported in the middle of a span and I don't know poo poo. Just spitballing.
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Aug 25, 2018 05:06
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There are some equally complicated big scarf joints for beams in Roubo-I guess in a world of cheap labor where 1/4” steel plate was unheard of and each nut and bolt had to be forged, tapped and filed by hand complicated joinery in timber made economic sense. I had to make a Chinese-ish stand for a red lacquer Chinese box a few years ago and played around with some of the joinery involved. The three way mitered mortise and tenon joint where the legs and aprons connect is a bit of a doozy but looks great when done right and is a fun joint to make. I think I figured out how to do parts of it by machine but it was mostly hand work. The mitred through tenons got wedged, the mitered mortise and tenons on the legs get pegged from the back, and the dovetailed aprons help hold it all together as well. Dovetails don’t have to be pretty to be strong. Hide glue doesn’t hold up well in hot humid climates like east Asia (or here on the Gulf Coast) so alot of the old furniture there was built with joints that didn’t rely on glue for strength. Rough mock up in sapele and finished piece in African padouk.      
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Aug 25, 2018 05:24
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A lot of what we call Japanese joinery was developed by Buddhist monks, where you might not have had any metalworking capacity and were restricted to the wood nearby because you’re building a temple on the side of a mountain out in bumfuck province Clever joinery became an art form in and of itself, as important as any temple decoration. Japanese joinery went buck wild largely due to Japanese power in the region and internal political structure (their temples weren’t being burned down all the time) but you can find extremely intricate joinery pretty much everywhere in Asia
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Aug 25, 2018 06:26
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Javid posted:With the disclaimer that I know less than nothing about that style of joinery, it wouldn't surprise me if that thing is gonna be sitting on top of a vertical post with that wedge thing going down through both. That would still be strong as gently caress compared to just butting two beams together on the same post. As far as I know, it's strong and robust enough, also a big part of it is the tradition and craftsmanship behind it. I really don't know the history behind it, but I do know that exposing the joinery is an aesthetic that some people do like (including me), and having intricate interlocking mechanisms definitely falls under that category. Also it's a great way to showboat and have forum warrior bullshit go down the WELL ACTUALLY, THE NIHON-JIN (person of Japan) HOUHOU (method) OF DOING MOKKOUGEI (woodworking) well and furthering the mystique of ~the orient~. The counter to this is something along the lines of Matthias' reason for not being into super fancy joinery for structural stuff, it was like "take a bunch of 2x4s and put a nail through them, no amount of fancy joinery is going to beat the physical properties of a piece of metal through 2 or 3 boards". In conclusion, Japanese joinery is a land of contrasts.
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Aug 25, 2018 06:38
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DevNull posted:I picked up some Disston D-23s for a buck each. Were you the guy building your shop over near University Ave? Looking good!
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Aug 25, 2018 07:32
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The lathe I got 6 months ago hasn’t seen much use so I wanted to change that. Made a simple paper towel holder from a piece of recycled Blackwood and a piece of oak I found at work.  I really like how quick you can finish a piece on the lathe. Just some paste wax while it’s running slow and that’s it, no loving about with brushes or waiting for things to dry. And it’s so nice and smooth.
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Aug 25, 2018 09:42
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Nice flared base.
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Aug 25, 2018 09:56
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Platystemon posted:Nice flared base. Can you use silicone lube with wax or do you have to go water-based? Seriously, I know a lathe is about #142 on the list of tools I need but seeing anything like this make me think “I’ve got to get one right now!”
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Aug 25, 2018 17:32
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I want one of the ones you hook into a drill press and run vertically. I definitely don't have room for a full wood lathe 
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Aug 25, 2018 17:45
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Board’s done! I could have scrapped it and started over for all the effort it took to finish it, sand it back down to unfinished and then re-route the edges and finish it again.... but now it doesn’t smell, looks the way I want, and I saw the project through... Not obvious in the photo, just the slightest bit of sheen/reflection.   Now I can shut the gently caress up about it in this thread and start bothering y’all with other project questions. 
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Aug 25, 2018 18:09
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What are you guys typically using for feet on the bottom of cutting/serving boards? I bought some rubber ones of Amazon, but they are low quality and terrible. Any recommendations? Bonus points if in and around Toronto!
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Aug 26, 2018 01:39
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midge posted:What are you guys typically using for feet on the bottom of cutting/serving boards? I bought some rubber ones of Amazon, but they are low quality and terrible. Any recommendations? Bonus points if in and around Toronto! I like these. Low profile, very pro looking.... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-Heavy-Duty-Anti-Skid-Surface-Pads-4-Pack-49644/203661092 
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Aug 26, 2018 03:06
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Feenix posted:Now I can shut the gently caress up about it in this thread and start bothering y’all with other project questions. Nice work! Glad it all turned out ok in the end. It looks excellent, purpleheart is amazing.  Added some finish to a key bowl I made a while back. The figuring in this camphor laurel is great. There are 4 other smaller blanks from the same tree which I need to find a use for.
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Aug 26, 2018 13:28
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Granite Octopus posted:Nice work! Glad it all turned out ok in the end. It looks excellent, purpleheart is amazing. banging love that.
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Aug 26, 2018 19:38
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Granite Octopus posted:Nice work! Glad it all turned out ok in the end. It looks excellent, purpleheart is amazing. That's fine work. The bonus for me is that the regular grain in that looks just like a fallen tree we've tried to I.D. unsuccessfully for a few months, and wondered if it was worth salvaging. Thanks!
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Aug 26, 2018 20:17
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