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The main principles of film photography are exactly the same as the main principles of digital photography. Both use the same set of three adjustments to create a properly exposed image. If you understand aperture, shutterspeed and ISO, then that is pretty much everything that you need to know to use any camera effectively. Canon have a really useful interactive explainer for that which also lets you pay around with a virtual camera to experiment with the way that those settings affect your image. http://www.canonoutsideofauto.ca/ It's obviously designed around the controls and feedback UI of a DSLR, but your Pentax film cameras work in almost exactly the same way. You set the shutter speed on the top dial, the aperture at the lens and the ISO is fixed at the rating of whatever film you have loaded.
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Aug 10, 2018 05:36
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SMERSH Mouth posted:f I was going back to Eastern Block medium format cameras, I'd probably spring for a restored Pentacon Six instead. They don't have MLU, but I'd be willing to bet that a very solid and heavy-enough tripod could tame the vibration for long exposures. I like the P6 a lot but 2 out of the 3 I've had developed problems with the film advance lever - there's a little plastic part in there that I guess doesn't age so well - and you do have to be very careful with the loading or you get frame spacing issues. Definitely go for a serviced/restored one, cos in good condition it's a great camera with some really nice glass for not that much money. One of the German service companies will also do you a MLU mod for like €100 if you really want it.
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Aug 11, 2018 00:58
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How necessary is it to keep films like Cinestill and Velvia refrigerated? They've yet to attain their expiration date, but I dug them out of my film box and realized I'd forgotten to refrigerate them at some point - I'd say they've been purchased about four months ago. I've googled and people kind of sit on either side - where it MUST be refrigerated, and others just say it's not that big of a deal.
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Aug 11, 2018 14:41
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What's a good way to get into sheet film, preferably for not too terribly much money. I'd like to try some zone development techniques, and it's awkward trying to shoot an entire roll planning around it. I suppose I could try medium format and just develop an entire roll of that since it's fewer shots so it's easier to plan around, but figure I may as well look into sheet film first since that's one of the biggest draws to it. And the detail, of course.
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Aug 11, 2018 17:18
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Shoot x-ray film in a pinhole camera and tray develop
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Aug 11, 2018 17:41
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WorldWarWonderful posted:How necessary is it to keep films like Cinestill and Velvia refrigerated? They've yet to attain their expiration date, but I dug them out of my film box and realized I'd forgotten to refrigerate them at some point - I'd say they've been purchased about four months ago. I've googled and people kind of sit on either side - where it MUST be refrigerated, and others just say it's not that big of a deal. I don't know about Cinestill, but I've shot dozens of rolls film that were a decade past date, stored in a drawer at room temp and they all turned out no different than a brand new roll would have. Refrigerate when possible, but it's not that big a deal. Definitely keep film away from heat and out of the sun though.
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Aug 11, 2018 19:02
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Father O'Blivion posted:Shoot x-ray film in a pinhole camera and tray develop Any recommendations for pinhole cameras? I know Jack poo poo about them.
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Aug 12, 2018 00:49
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They aren't hard to make, I've made one with a simple cardboard box and a beer can. Both used paper negatives though, so I dont know how well they work with film.
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Aug 12, 2018 02:59
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CodfishCartographer posted:Any recommendations for pinhole cameras? I know Jack poo poo about them. There the Harman titan, it's $230 for a pinhole camera but if you're ready to shoot 4x5 that probably doesn't deter you much.
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Aug 13, 2018 18:34
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Spotmatic F, Fomapan 400, lovely scans from a local lab. House By The Water  000026.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr Spaghetti  000044.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
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Aug 13, 2018 18:58
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I would not feel comfortable going down that side of the stairs.
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Aug 13, 2018 19:07
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Just got a fresh bottle of HC-110. Question - I want dilution B right? 1:31 from bottle of stuff I got from the store?
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Aug 13, 2018 21:38
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The dilution you choose will depend on how long you want the development process to be. Dilution B is the most commonly used dilution on most film data sheets but you might find the time too short to control accurately with some films. Lots of people use "Dilution-H" which is double the dilution of B (1:63) with twice the time. Just make sure you have enough active ingredient in the mix to fully develop the film, which if I recall is at least 6ml of HC-110 per roll of 135 or 120 film. This site is frequently cited as a good resource for HC-110 information. You can probably ignore his decanting instructions unless you live in a place with incredible humidity year round. HC-110 is like Rodinal with folks one upping each other on just how old and decrepit looking they can get their developer before it stops working. HC-110 is pretty much immortal. Sauer fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Aug 13, 2018 |
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Aug 13, 2018 21:53
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I've been using HC-110 for years @ Dilution E without a problem, even when it's mixed at 5ml for 240ml total per roll for my steel tanks. it's never hurt my process since i started doing it that way. People have even figured out a 1:100 mix because math is hard. Aside from that site, where else have people gotten the information of 6ml minimum per roll?
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Aug 13, 2018 22:38
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It looks like everyone just parrots that site. Kodak's own datasheet for HC-110 doesn't mention a minimum developer amount.
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Aug 13, 2018 22:52
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So looking into large format stuff, I’ve come up with a probably crazy idea: would it be possible to offer some kind of pseudo 1-hour photo service using direct positive photo paper? Aka, take a picture of someone on location at an event, unload the film in a darkbag and then develop/hang to dry also on location, then the person you took the picture of comes back in an hour or so to pick up their brand new print? I could see people at comic conventions or whatever going crazy for that kinda poo poo.
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Aug 13, 2018 23:34
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Sound like a 2 person op so you dont miss a chance to shoot someone while the other develops, and people still buy daguerreotypes so I say go for it.
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Aug 13, 2018 23:39
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Note that positive paper has an effective ISO of about 3. I hope you can get people to sit absolutely motionless for about 20 seconds...
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Aug 14, 2018 02:25
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Sauer posted:HC-110 is like Rodinal with folks one upping each other on just how old and decrepit looking they can get their developer before it stops working. HC-110 is pretty much immortal. In my experience the bottle gives out before the HC-110 does.
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Aug 14, 2018 04:37
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Made some dilution B and I'm p happy with the results! Gonna try and scan a bunch tonight.
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Aug 14, 2018 15:51
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also, look into something like these amber bottles to decant the solution into something a little more durable. Amber Bottles on Amazon
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Aug 14, 2018 18:03
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I'm using a 64 oz growler that i cleaned out, didn't realize I needed it and luckily I had one just looking for a purpose! I've only been shooting film for a year and not get many good frames, but drat is shooting and developing at home fun. I'm starting to see if I can take some classes at a local community darkroom to learn how to make prints. Inkjet printing is cool, but I wanna learn the real thing!
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Aug 14, 2018 19:57
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I've seen people use HC-110 as a paper developer, JSYK
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Aug 14, 2018 20:13
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I keep my HC-110 in a old port bottle (with the nice cork stopper), it is about 8 years old now because i didn't shoot film for a few years. Still works fine.
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Aug 18, 2018 17:40
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Helen Highwater posted:Note that positive paper has an effective ISO of about 3. I hope you can get people to sit absolutely motionless for about 20 seconds... Or going by Sunny-16 rule, outside on a sunny day at f/4 you should be able to do 1/50 s. Or just use (lots of) flash.
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Aug 18, 2018 18:34
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I bought some Pro Image 100 and have been trying it out, the greens seem kind of weird to me, but otherwise it seems nice.   
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Aug 19, 2018 05:24
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Started using FilmPro for iOS to log my film shooting. The one thing I’m not seeing on it is an export feature. Anyone use a similar app that has some more features to it?
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Aug 19, 2018 17:24
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Aug 24, 2018 02:42
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Have you ever had half of an image come out unsharp like this due to a bad scan? I've tried to show it in the graphic below, but even if it's not that clear from viewing it in a browser, this image (shot on a tripod at f/22, 1/2s) is pretty appreciably blurrier on the right 40% of the frame. In the crop, it might just look like the railing goes out of the plane of best focus, but DoF extends to infinity on the sharp side.  P67 Sharpness Comp by S M, on FlickrAll the other scans from this batch looked fine. They're from a Pentax 6x7, so it's hard to think film flatness was an issue, but I don't have the negatives back yet.
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Aug 24, 2018 05:33
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Have you ever had half of an image come out unsharp like this due to a bad scan? I've tried to show it in the graphic below, but even if it's not that clear from viewing it in a browser, this image (shot on a tripod at f/22, 1/2s) is pretty appreciably blurrier on the right 40% of the frame. In the crop, it might just look like the railing goes out of the plane of best focus, but DoF extends to infinity on the sharp side. I have to say I can't tell the difference blown up on a 1440p monitor. I've got horrible eyes for this poo poo though.
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Aug 24, 2018 06:23
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The only difference I see is in the leaves behind the railing on the right, and even then it might just be that it's a less contrasty area or the leaves weren't still or something idk.
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Aug 24, 2018 08:55
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Finally got some film dev'd. Ektar3 by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr Portra1 by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr Ektar2 by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr
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Aug 24, 2018 09:31
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Skoora fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Aug 26, 2018 |
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Aug 26, 2018 04:15
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I to hate it when I prematurely hit the shutter release. Its a like a hair trigger on my camera.
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Aug 26, 2018 07:36
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Had an odd question for anyone who uses the Epson V550 to scan film. Has anyone noticed a change in scan quality between Thumbnail and Normal mode? Since I'm shooting in dark venues at times I get why it has trouble trying to pick out the frames. But why would Normal comes out looking so flat? Here's an example: Thumbnail mode:  img446 by Rob Swackhamer Productions, on FlickrNormal mode:  img432 by Rob Swackhamer Productions, on FlickrIs it controlling the lights on the scan head differently in some way? Like Normal will use all the lights and it comes out flat? That was the only thing I could think of.
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Aug 28, 2018 02:58
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Is the "auto correct" turned on in thumbnail mode but off in Normal mode?
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Aug 28, 2018 03:19
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Sauer posted:Is the "auto correct" turned on in thumbnail mode but off in Normal mode? You know... I'm honestly not sure. I've never noticed any settings changing between modes but it is possible I need to menu dive or something.
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Aug 28, 2018 03:39
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It's probably because you're picking up some of the unexposed film area around the edges of the frame with the marquee. Tighten up your selection box in normal mode and the difference should disappear.
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Aug 28, 2018 04:17
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Make sure you manually set the levels on each scan. Also, check your epson scan software settings - theres a setting which makes the selection auto expose all the time which is annoying AF.
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Aug 28, 2018 17:18
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Aug 29, 2018 02:22
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