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Jerk McJerkface posted:So my attic has knee walls (cape cod). Should I insulate the entire roof (even into the open kneewalls) or the roof were it's "finished" and then inside/bottom of the knee walls so there's an open space? Pictures are easier, and this answer had what I was generally typing:https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/131850 If you only have the ridge vent (not roof vents), you'll definitely need to have baffles that given an air channel up the interior room's angled ceiling (attic side) to that vent. What isn't shown in that image is the need to bag up insulation to stuff into the floor joists to prevent air movement under the room. This EPA guide has some great tips for attic insulation as well: https://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/publications/pubdocs/DIY_Guide_2016.pdf?7be1-2081
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Sep 1, 2018 02:48
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My landlord replaced my old oven with a newer oven. The stovetop was freshly repainted. I waited a few days to use it but then the paint on it went brown. I figured I must have spilled something, used it again, and it turned even darker. Parts of the paint also looks like it's wilting. What happened and how do I fix it to not get in trouble?
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Sep 1, 2018 22:17
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See if it comes off with gentle scrubbing powder like Barkeeper's Friend. It may just be soot. If not, send them a notice with exactly what you said?
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Sep 1, 2018 22:25
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I'm trying to replace a sash in one of my windows, rather than replacing the entire thing. A pane in the top sash is cracked, it would apparently cost me as much to get the pane replaced as to get a new window set, but I am hoping I can replace just that one sash cheaper. But to do this I need the manufacturer. I have searched all over the sash and the frame and can't find any stickers or marks - I figured maybe this one was missing, but I've checked every other matching window in the house and none of them seem to have anything on them at all. Is there some extra secret place this might be marked? Under a sash lock or something crazy? Barring that, is there any way to try and figure out how to get a sash for this? They aren't old or unique, they look like pretty generic vinyl double-hung windows. I took the broken sash to Home Depot and the best the guy could tell me is that it isn't one of the two brands they carry. I really don't want to have to take off the trim and pull this whole frame over one dumb pane. 
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Sep 2, 2018 02:39
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RandomPauI posted:My landlord replaced my old oven with a newer oven. The stovetop was freshly repainted. I waited a few days to use it but then the paint on it went brown. I figured I must have spilled something, used it again, and it turned even darker. Parts of the paint also looks like it's wilting. Sounds like he didn't use heat proof paint. Either tell him he hosed up it or strip and repaint it yourself
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Sep 2, 2018 10:58
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cakesmith handyman posted:Sounds like he didn't use heat proof paint. Either tell him he hosed up it or strip and repaint it yourself Who paints a stove top?
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Sep 2, 2018 14:01
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Change colour or repair damage?
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Sep 2, 2018 14:58
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Yeah really sounds like your landlord is a scumbag but I repeat myself.
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Sep 2, 2018 15:27
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Please don't breathe the fumes from the burning paint.
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Sep 2, 2018 16:17
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I've got an Octagon shaped window in the bathroom that has been on it's last legs for a few years now, the wood frame the glass is set in is rotting and basically will disintegrate if I open it. Having a window in the bathroom that does not open is not good for anyone. I'd like to replace it, but I don't even know where to start since it's an odd shaped window, and I'm not sure how much should be replaced (The outside of the house had siding put on 2 years ago so the outer wooden frame was replaced with vinyl). Album of pictures of it 
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Sep 2, 2018 17:48
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Medullah posted:I've got an Octagon shaped window in the bathroom that has been on it's last legs for a few years now, the wood frame the glass is set in is rotting and basically will disintegrate if I open it. Having a window in the bathroom that does not open is not good for anyone. I'd like to replace it, but I don't even know where to start since it's an odd shaped window, and I'm not sure how much should be replaced (The outside of the house had siding put on 2 years ago so the outer wooden frame was replaced with vinyl). What town are you in? A window maker or woodworker should be able to make a new one pretty readily, is imagine.
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Sep 2, 2018 19:20
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Power washed all of the loose paint off. Scraped touch up areas. Sanded the whole thing. Washed with TSP, which loosened up more paint.   Should I have gone with a chemical strip?
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Sep 2, 2018 19:56
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I built a bird feeder and need to finish it with a copper strip running the length of the roof peak. Max of 2ft long and 4in wide would suffice, but I'm not sure how thick it should be? Also the roof is cedar, with some stain/sealer on it. Any special way to secure copper to that?
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Sep 3, 2018 04:03
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I'd pick whatever thin-gauge copper sheet metal you can find, honestly. Thickness is not going to be a major issue so long as it's, like, 26ga at least. As for securing it to the wood, have you considered nails? If you're worried about water intrusion, either layer the copper over shingles, or caulk/tar the nail holes. By the way, why copper? It's expensive. Aluminum flashing is a lot cheaper.
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Sep 3, 2018 04:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd pick whatever thin-gauge copper sheet metal you can find, honestly. Thickness is not going to be a major issue so long as it's, like, 26ga at least. Thanks 26ga or more gives me something to aim for. I was thinking nails or screws but wasn't sure about like corrosion with copper? Going for copper over aluminum for looks, I'm assuming a small piece won't be more than 10-15 bucks.
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Sep 3, 2018 04:37
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Copper is like right next to steel in the galvanic series, you probably won't have any issues. The nails will corrode slightly faster but not so as to be noticeable. If you wanna get fancy, depending on if the roof has sufficient overhangs, getting the copper extra long and gently hammering over each end would probably hold it decently, and some silicone or spray adhesive under the length of the strip would give it the rest of the grip you want.
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Sep 3, 2018 05:04
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You can get copper coated brad nails from your local box store, but from the reviews you have to be careful to avoid knocking the finish off the nail head.
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Sep 3, 2018 05:09
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For adhering sheet metal like this, though, you really want something like a roofing nail, with a large flat head. Or you could go with the adhesive suggested by Enourmo. Incidentally, thistothat is a good website to remember. Here's its metal-to-wood suggestions.
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Sep 3, 2018 05:13
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Hmm I think I have some construction adhesive in a caulk tube that's still good, and I wouldn't need to buy anything else, perhaps I'll try that depending on the length of copper that I source. Thanks.
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Sep 3, 2018 05:13
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FogHelmut posted:Power washed all of the loose paint off. Wirewheel that fucker.
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Sep 3, 2018 05:35
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PainterofCrap posted:Wirewheel that fucker. That's days of wire wheeling unless garage doors come clean a lot easier than container ship decks.
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Sep 3, 2018 06:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For adhering sheet metal like this, though, you really want something like a roofing nail, with a large flat head. Or you could go with the adhesive suggested by Enourmo. Incidentally, thistothat is a good website to remember. Here's its metal-to-wood suggestions. Those nails are actually for weatherstripping. They have copper coated tacks as well, but I think the smaller head would look better on such a small project, if you need them.
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Sep 3, 2018 12:46
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Is there some way to prevent spiders from setting up webs in specific areas? I don't hate spiders, I do my best to not kill them, spiders are real and strong and my friend. But on my back porch, where I enter and leave every day, at least once a week I get a big old face full of web and spider and I don't like it. Is there some treatment I can put around my door frame to keep them from setting up shop directly in my path?
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Sep 3, 2018 16:22
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The maple tree in my backyard doesn’t look like it’s doing well this year. There are green leaves growing on it, but the growth is much thinner than it has been previous years. I’m worried about the thing being dead/dying because it is close to my house. But the weather has been absolutely absurd with heat/cold cycles this year so I’m not sure if the tree just went dormant when it wasn’t supposed to. I don’t see any other maples around this area with the same problem. The tree is like 30 years old, maybe more. E: oh, we have a plants thread...
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Sep 3, 2018 16:45
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shovelbum posted:That's days of wire wheeling unless garage doors come clean a lot easier than container ship decks. If those are Clopay panels factory-spray-painted white, that thin-rear end paint comes off tout de suite with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. It's the pebbled/fake woodgrain that's a pain in the rear end.
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Sep 3, 2018 17:19
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PainterofCrap posted:Wirewheel that fucker. I did a section of it with wire wheel a couple months ago, it took off some of the galvanization along an edge. I hit it again with the pressure washer, gave it a wipe down with some vinegar, and primered it pretty good. I didn't notice any more flaking while doing this, but if it's peeling next year I'm just buying a new door.
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Sep 3, 2018 17:35
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CzarChasm posted:Is there some way to prevent spiders from setting up webs in specific areas? I don't hate spiders, I do my best to not kill them, spiders are real and strong and my friend. But on my back porch, where I enter and leave every day, at least once a week I get a big old face full of web and spider and I don't like it. Is there some treatment I can put around my door frame to keep them from setting up shop directly in my path? The easy answer is to buy some bifenthrin concentrate on Amazon and mix it into a gallon sprayer. It will coat surfaces and even stand up to a few months of rain and such. That's basically what the pest control guy would do, except he'll try to charge you $300 for something that takes $20 and an hour to do yourself.
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Sep 3, 2018 18:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:By the way, why copper? It's expensive. Aluminum flashing is a lot cheaper.
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Sep 3, 2018 20:57
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I recently got some new gutters installed on the house and realized that I need to work out some water flow issues with downspout drains/french drains to carry the water off. The corner of my house that has issues is covered in a pebble topped concrete patio that extends from the base of the foundation out to the pool. So I need to remove some concrete sections in order to install said drains and I'm looking at options and any advice based on previous goon experience for concrete removal. My plan was to rent a concrete saw with a diamond blade and cut a strip of patio slightly wider than the width of my pipe/trench. There are gas options and electric ones, any foreseeable issues with the electric? I'm looking at maybe 5 feet worth of patio to cut probably less. Any issues with the fact it's a pebbled top? How likely will I be able to lever out the patio sections I cut in nice easy pieces to replace as a temp fix? I plan on getting a more professional fix at a later date. I can probably just hand trench it all, it doesn't snow/freeze really so I don't have to worry about getting it below any frostline. As for the drainage I'm looking at pvc to join up two downspouts then they'll terminate into flexible pipe that I'll point down the sloping part of my yard. I'm not sure how to terminate it though. I see a few examples using an outflow box/pipe. Should I dig this section out more and fill with gravel and rock for more drainage or is there some other option?
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Sep 4, 2018 17:33
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Super 3 posted:My plan was to rent a concrete saw with a diamond blade and cut a strip of patio slightly wider than the width of my pipe/trench. There are gas options and electric ones, any foreseeable issues with the electric? I'm looking at maybe 5 feet worth of patio to cut probably less. Do you own a circular saw? For 5 feet of concrete, you could just buy a diamond cutting blade for your saw and do it with that. You'll have to take shallower passes, and you won't have anything built in to keep the dust down like a concrete saw would, so wear a respirator. Also get a cold steel chisel and a sledgehammer (if you don't already have one). Once you've cut down an inch or so, you should be able to use those to crack the concrete along the cut. It saves a lot of effort. Once you've separated the 5'-long piece from the rest of the patio, you may also be able to section it without any saw work by mashing it with the sledgehammer/chisel. That will make it easier to remove; I'd suggest trying to break it into pieces not more than 2' long. Concrete's pretty heavy. You may also need a crowbar to lift the pieces out. Rather than try to re-use the pieces you cut out, I'd just pour new concrete in. This is the kind of job you can do with a shovel and a cement mixing tub, and it's a pretty decent introduction to how to pour concrete. It'll still be pretty obviously different from the surrounding stuff (though if you can match the pebbles that should disguise it some), but it'll look a lot nicer than some ragged re-used lumps of concrete would.
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Sep 4, 2018 17:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Do you own a circular saw? For 5 feet of concrete, you could just buy a diamond cutting blade for your saw and do it with that. You'll have to take shallower passes, and you won't have anything built in to keep the dust down like a concrete saw would, so wear a respirator. A garden sprayer and an assistant works okay to keep the dust down.
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Sep 4, 2018 18:50
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Good point. I have a circular saw and a hammer drill with a chisel or two. If I'm not worried about saving the concrete sections I can just lever them/bust them out.
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Sep 4, 2018 18:51
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What happens if the rebar is deeper than the saw blade?
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Sep 4, 2018 19:00
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You're assuming there's rebar, which there may well not be. If there is, well, you're out the $10-15 that you spent on the diamond sawblade and you have to find something that can cut deeper. 
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Sep 4, 2018 19:14
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OSU_Matthew posted:Right, I did run a few cables from my basement up to my attic for two cameras I want to put in my eaves, but I've had these things sitting around for awhile now and I just want to get them up, so exterior run it is. If my house were vinyl I'd just tuck the cables under the flaps, but it's fiber cement tiles so no go. Late to the party, Cat 5/6 is low voltage cable and doesn't have the restrictions that other electrical cable has about needing conduit. If it were me, I'd buy a small roll of UV resistant cable in the color of your choice and just run it bare. This will be the least amount of work, and the least visually intrusive solution.
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Sep 4, 2018 19:26
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PremiumSupport posted:Late to the party, Ok, cool, thanks! All I'm going for in the end is visually unobtrusive, and I just figured some small square wire mold around the trim would be good. But drat that stuff is expensive, plus I have no idea how interior wiremold would hold up to the elements. Maybe some sort of hollow quarter round would be good. I'm just trying to not attract attention to the fact that I've got cameras hidden up under the eaves. Maybe I just need to quit being lazy and pry the boards off the trim boxing on my porch and run it through the columns and trimmed rafters, and drill through the porch floor under the column, caulk it up, and tuck the wire under the cement fiber boards on the last row above the foundation, for the ten feet to cut back through the window well... Don't know why that thought hadn't occurred to me before... I was too preoccupied thinking about how to run cabling vertically inside exterior walls to stop and think about other elements to tuck it under.
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Sep 4, 2018 20:49
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I am building a box I need to insulate well. Can I just glue two layers of foam insulation together for an additive insulation effect?
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Sep 5, 2018 02:41
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adorai posted:I am building a box I need to insulate well. Can I just glue two layers of foam insulation together for an additive insulation effect? It's not quite 1:1 but it will go up, yeah. How effective does your insulation need to be exactly?
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Sep 5, 2018 03:19
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Fender Anarchist posted:It's not quite 1:1 but it will go up, yeah. How effective does your insulation need to be exactly?
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Sep 5, 2018 03:37
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For a setup like that, sealing against air current leakage is probably going to be a far bigger factor than conduction through the walls. That and make sure it's sitting somewhere with stagnant air, having an ambient-temp breeze blow across the box will help pump a lot more heat into it (and up your power needs/exceed the cooling capacity of your cooler) regardless of what insulation you have; forced convection is a bitch.
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Sep 5, 2018 03:45
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