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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm looking at this book and imagining giving flat-pack dinosaurs to my nephews and nieces this Christmas. The only problem is that I don't have a scrollsaw. Any goon-held opinions on scrollsaws? Do you have access to a laser cutter in your area? A scrollsaw at home is, in my opinion, NOT the way to do this. I use a laser cutter all the time for fine design cutting in thin plywood and pay a pretty reasonable hourly rate to do it.
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Sep 12, 2018 23:10
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Do you have access to a laser cutter in your area? A scrollsaw at home is, in my opinion, NOT the way to do this. I use a laser cutter all the time for fine design cutting in thin plywood and pay a pretty reasonable hourly rate to do it. Laser cutters and CNCs are my arbitrary line in the sand though -- just a bit too automated for my tastes.
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Sep 12, 2018 23:20
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Do you have access to a laser cutter in your area? A scrollsaw at home is, in my opinion, NOT the way to do this. I use a laser cutter all the time for fine design cutting in thin plywood and pay a pretty reasonable hourly rate to do it. How much do you pay and is it hourly based on laser time or occupying the machine time? TooMuchAbstraction posted:Laser cutters and CNCs are my arbitrary line in the sand though -- just a bit too automated for my tastes. only those without access to such tools say things like that.
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Sep 13, 2018 02:02
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Most 16” scrollsaws are pretty much the same. Just make sure you’ve got a blower and a good light and bolt the thing down well since 5e cheap ones like to bounce around. Oh yeah make sure you get one that can take plain blades and not just pin end ones. If you want to spend some money the dewalt is the starting point of serious scroll saws.
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Sep 13, 2018 02:08
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coathat posted:Most 16” scrollsaws are pretty much the same. Just make sure you’ve got a blower and a good light and bolt the thing down well since 5e cheap ones like to bounce around. Oh yeah make sure you get one that can take plain blades and not just pin end ones. Thanks, that's pretty helpful! JEEVES420 posted:only those without access to such tools say things like that. I'm sure if I had access to them I'd use them, but not for the same reasons I do carpentry. They occupy a similar space in my mind as 3D printers.
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Sep 13, 2018 02:20
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I'm pretty much with you in thinking cutting wood myself is awesome and programming robots to cut wood is lame. If you are the kind of person that really likes coloring inside the lines you might love scrollsaw time but if you like seeing things happen fast you might not love it. I can get in my zen zone with it sometimes, but usually for me it has been repetitive fretwork that I would very happily have outsourced to someone who knows how to program wood cutting robots.
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Sep 13, 2018 02:42
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cakesmith handyman posted:Probably not a cutting board then To be honest I am about to throw my fence through a wall. Trying to make small adjustments is an exercise in insanity. (Steel City Table Saw)
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Sep 13, 2018 04:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'm pretty much with you in thinking cutting wood myself is awesome and programming robots to cut wood is lame. If you are the kind of person that really likes coloring inside the lines you might love scrollsaw time but if you like seeing things happen fast you might not love it. I can get in my zen zone with it sometimes, but usually for me it has been repetitive fretwork that I would very happily have outsourced to someone who knows how to program wood cutting robots. I'm totally with you. I think your idea is amazing TooMuchAbstraction and I really hope you do it and succeed I was just hoping to make it easier on you and really help you nail it, not just dissuade you. I totally appreciate a hierarchy like hand tooling>mechanical>programming a machine to cut something but for me its not always feasible. I spend a ton of time on a ring saw professionally for stone and tile inlays and I could produce that dinosaur in a few hours but stone is so much easier to work with than wood. Its totally a zen, headphones in get in the zone thing and not for everyone. Its wildly satisfying for me. Do it and post pics I bet it would look amazing and they would keep it forever
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Sep 13, 2018 04:51
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So I finally started practicing dovetails and box joints a bit and made an 'ok' box out of some scrap. It was pretty fun and I used the router plane to add in a captured 1/4" plywood bottom   I'd like to start being able to do some more decorative work for this and potentially to add some accents / embellishments to larger pieces. This thread has been a huge help on finding resources to help pick tools for an unpowered shop. I'd like to be able to do some chip carving into these box lids for starters, just maybe make a little decorative pattern bordering the top lid inset an inch or so from the outside edge. Does anyone have a good resource / tutorial / book / video series, etc on getting started on doing this? I see a lot of different sources out there for it, just wondering if there are any thread approved recs. Also, does anyone have a good suggestion for a set of starter tools for this type of woodcarving? If there's a minimal "get started making easy patterns" set of tools to shoot for I'd love to get some recommendations / advice.
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Sep 13, 2018 13:33
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I'm totally with you. I think your idea is amazing TooMuchAbstraction and I really hope you do it and succeed I was just hoping to make it easier on you and really help you nail it, not just dissuade you. No wonder you handwaved off my HF saw-using granite tile job as another pedestrian effort you sonofabitch! 
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Sep 13, 2018 14:57
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That Works posted:I'd like to start being able to do some more decorative work for this and potentially to add some accents / embellishments to larger pieces. I'm also interested in this. I have a basement shop so it will be nice to have something to do when babby is sleeping and I cant go banging on my chisels.
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Sep 13, 2018 15:35
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Mr. Mambold posted:No wonder you handwaved off my HF saw-using granite tile job as another pedestrian effort you sonofabitch!  hey if the client is happy I'm happy!But also they turned out fine so good work Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Sep 13, 2018 |
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Sep 13, 2018 15:43
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Glad I stuck out finishing this steak board even after I ducked up on those juice grooves when I gouged the router bit through. I got a nice bowl bit and went to town. Turned out gorgeous, in my opinion. Perfect for a picanha steak party I am hosting Sunday. I used clamps and wood as guides and it was... well... it’s not optimal. But I got it done.  
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Sep 13, 2018 16:12
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Feenix posted:Glad I stuck out finishing this steak board even after I ducked up on those juice grooves when I gouged the router bit through. I got a nice bowl bit and went to town. Turned out gorgeous, in my opinion. Perfect for a picanha steak party I am hosting Sunday. That looks sweeeeeet! Nice.
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Sep 13, 2018 16:17
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Feenix posted:Glad I stuck out finishing this steak board even after I ducked up on those juice grooves when I gouged the router bit through. I got a nice bowl bit and went to town. Turned out gorgeous, in my opinion. Perfect for a picanha steak party I am hosting Sunday. You nailed what someone said earlier about hiding your mistakes, great work!
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Sep 13, 2018 16:19
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JEEVES420 posted:How much do you pay and is it hourly based on laser time or occupying the machine time? $1 a minute for the laser, no occupying time charge. Sorry missed this
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Sep 13, 2018 17:37
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:$1 a minute for the laser, no occupying time charge. Sorry missed this I have had a couple of jobs take an hour to etch/cut on the laser. A buck a minute is kinda pricey, I pay $1 per 5 minutes of laser run time. But I also pay a $50 membership that gives me access to them and tons of other machines. I do get wanting to cut by hand if that is your relaxation, that is how I feel about turning things on a lathe. But if it is something I am not making just for the sake of making I want to use the most efficient means I have access to. Same idea as using a jig, sure it can be done free hand but a jig will produce quicker results.
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Sep 13, 2018 20:29
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JEEVES420 posted:I do get wanting to cut by hand if that is your relaxation, that is how I feel about turning things on a lathe. But if it is something I am not making just for the sake of making I want to use the most efficient means I have access to. Same idea as using a jig, sure it can be done free hand but a jig will produce quicker results. Yeah, I'm like that with programming, which is my day job. There's lots of toys/games out there that are basically "write small programs in a weird, handicapped way". But if I'm going to program, I want to get poo poo accomplished; it's the end result that matters, not the path to get there. 
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Sep 13, 2018 20:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:Probably not a cutting board then Thinking more about saving the money for a decent replacement fence. This Steel City one is quite horrible.
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Sep 13, 2018 22:00
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JEEVES420 posted:I have had a couple of jobs take an hour to etch/cut on the laser. A buck a minute is kinda pricey, I pay $1 per 5 minutes of laser run time. But I also pay a $50 membership that gives me access to them and tons of other machines. Yea I don't pay a membership and everything I'm using it for takes 30seconds- 1 minute so its pretty worth it for me. I'd love to see what an hour on that machine would create. There is a local woodworking gallery that has some pretty intricate pieces cut using it
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Sep 14, 2018 00:26
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Does it leave burned edges or discolor the wood at all? I thought about having some veneer cut with one once, but to get all the veneer to lay flat and in position to be cut seemed like it would be tricky for someone who didn't do it every day.
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Sep 14, 2018 00:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Does it leave burned edges or discolor the wood at all? I thought about having some veneer cut with one once, but to get all the veneer to lay flat and in position to be cut seemed like it would be tricky for someone who didn't do it every day. Cover it in blue tape I pay a $30+ membership fee plus, I think, $27 for every hour on the laser, any of the four or five lasers my hackerspace has I did do a 1.5hr engrave job once. That fuckin sucked and was boring.
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Sep 14, 2018 00:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Does it leave burned edges or discolor the wood at all? I thought about having some veneer cut with one once, but to get all the veneer to lay flat and in position to be cut seemed like it would be tricky for someone who didn't do it every day. It slightly burns the edges but it ends up being a nice detail for my work here is a random video I googled showing the burnt edge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK1wrdmmmnM Sockser posted:I did do a 1.5hr engrave job once. That fuckin sucked and was boring. I bet
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Sep 14, 2018 01:11
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What’s the verdict on a nice intersection between easy-to-use varnish/finish and fast-curing varnish? I don’t know what other options I have so I’m just saying varnish but I’m talking whatever decent headboard protection is for stained wood... I’m open!
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Sep 14, 2018 01:40
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shellac is pretty hard to beat for ease of use and cure time it's weak vs alcohol but unless you're a lot wilder than me that won't be a problem in a headboard
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Sep 14, 2018 01:49
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go for a stroll posted:shellac is pretty hard to beat for ease of use and cure time plus its fun to say
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Sep 14, 2018 01:50
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Shellac is fine as a topcoat over stained red oak? I’m not gonna go hard on dine-sanding because I’m keeping it rustic. Is potential wet hair post-shower an issue for shellac?
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Sep 14, 2018 01:54
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I've used minwax fast drying poly on a few projects and been pleased. It has good water protection. I thin the first coat, then apply 3 more coats full strength. I think shellac is not as good at water protection, and it will color your wood, which you may or may not want. You can also apply other finishes over dewaxed shellac if you want the look of shellac with the protection of varnish.
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Sep 14, 2018 02:50
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Shellac is fairly water resistant. Alcohol and most solvents will damage it. Easy enough to use, and dries fast. Not my favorite finish to sand between coats or rub out. Zinsser SealCoat is fairly available at big box stores and is just dewaxed shellac-hope you don’t get a can that has been sitting in the shelf for two years. I prefer to wipe it on with a pad, but a brush works too-it just dries so fast it often leaves brush mark. It’s best to thin it way out and put on a million coats but that’s pretty slow and tedious. Here’s a great article about shellac by Bob Flexner who knows everything. https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/shellac-as-a-sealer-its-all-just-hype I really don’t love polyurethane, but if you can’t spray, it’s your best option for durability. Generally I think shellac looks better but it is not as durable a finish. Danish oil is a good option too-definitely easy, and a nice finish on oak I think.
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Sep 14, 2018 02:55
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yea I don't pay a membership and everything I'm using it for takes 30seconds- 1 minute so its pretty worth it for me. I'd love to see what an hour on that machine would create. There is a local woodworking gallery that has some pretty intricate pieces cut using it Both of these were over an hour. The coasters are 1/4in padauk solid wood and I ran 5 of them off one board (1 as a test/gently caress up piece...which I hosed up) so etching and then the slow cut. The corkboard for the bottom took like 15 seconds to cut. The living hing test book took over an hour on 3/8in birch plywood 6"x4" due to all those cuts.   It can leave some burn residue but hitting it with 1500 grit sandpaper and a damp paper towel usually cleans it all off. I did have to sand the black edges of the coasters on a belt sander though. As Sockser said, blue tape also keeps any over burn away but you do have to slightly adjust the laser for the added material.
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Sep 14, 2018 03:18
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I don’t think I’ve ever adjusted the laser to account for the tape, but I guess I’m usually doing acrylic and not wood Also doing a living hinge out of 3/8” sounds insane, do they still work well?
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Sep 14, 2018 03:22
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JEEVES420 posted:Both of these were over an hour. The coasters are 1/4in padauk solid wood and I ran 5 of them off one board (1 as a test/gently caress up piece...which I hosed up) so etching and then the slow cut. The corkboard for the bottom took like 15 seconds to cut. The living hing test book took over an hour on 3/8in birch plywood 6"x4" due to all those cuts. I just learned what a living hinge is, that is so cool
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Sep 14, 2018 03:29
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I just learned what a living hinge is, that is so cool They’re everywhere with modern plastics, the lid of Tic Tac container, for example.
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Sep 14, 2018 03:36
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Platystemon posted:They’re everywhere with modern plastics, the lid of Tic Tac container, for example. alright give my little brain a break here
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Sep 14, 2018 03:44
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Sockser posted:I don’t think I’ve ever adjusted the laser to account for the tape, but I guess I’m usually doing acrylic and not wood haha, 1/8"...bit of a typo there. If you focus the laser where there is not tape that 1/16 or 1/32 of tape can cause it to not etch as cleanly.
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Sep 14, 2018 03:53
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 My first dovetails were... a success? I think? I probably won't have to throw it away anyway.
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Sep 14, 2018 03:59
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go for a stroll posted:
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Sep 14, 2018 04:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Look fine to me. Repeat three times and you’ll have a box Maybe. I feel like there's about a 20% chance I forget to put the bottom in before I glue it up.
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Sep 14, 2018 04:17
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Don't do what I did and get the dovetails backwards on the fourth corner. They fit together fine, they just didn't contribute any holding power.
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Sep 14, 2018 04:29
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CNC machines are awesome. I can understand if the reason you do woodwork is to get all zen with it - things like intricate fiddly little cuts and such are very calming, a bit like those adult colouring books (and I don't mean this in a disparaging way at all), BUT CNCs can just take away some things which are really a huge pain in the arse otherwise. I see lots of vids on youtube where people have crafted these hugely elaborate jigs to make table-saws do stuff you'd never normally think to do with a table saw (and even then some of the things look super sketchy or dangerous) and just think "you could do that in 30 seconds on a CNC machine". Fair enough the reason those guys are doing things that way because they don't have the money/space etc. for a CNC machine and that's fine but IMO you should view them as another tool and there's no reason you can't make 95% of a project without one but just use a CNC machine to do that one really awful bit, or anything really low-level and tedious, or make things you otherwise would have literally no way to make. Of course, I'm lucky to have access to a 4.3m x 1.2m 5-axis industrial woodworking CNC machine at work so I guess I would say that. If anybody needs advice on CNC stuff, router tooling etc. then let me know.
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Sep 14, 2018 10:07
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