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Vanagoon posted:Are any of the oil filter relocation kits that they make decent? I may want to look into that since on top of being impossible to get to that filter is massive for some reason only VW knows. Does anyone know of a kit that would work for this car? Then again A/C and PS were not the most common options on these cars so I'm sure base models and GTIs were a lot easier. I got the grandpa special, 4 door highest trim that had an auto, A/C, PS, no cruise, shoulder belts only (the lockout was bypassed too), no central locking, no ABS and it smelled like old man cologne. The filter in question:  Note the helpful directions to torque it to 14 ft lbs.
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Sep 17, 2018 03:53
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Autoexec.bat posted:The filter in question: Mechanic pulls out impact gun with oil filter attachment
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Sep 17, 2018 05:29
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Autoexec.bat posted:I may want to look into that since on top of being impossible to get to that filter is massive for some reason only VW knows. Does anyone know of a kit that would work for this car? Then again A/C and PS were not the most common options on these cars so I'm sure base models and GTIs were a lot easier. I got the grandpa special, 4 door highest trim that had an auto, A/C, PS, no cruise, shoulder belts only (the lockout was bypassed too), no central locking, no ABS and it smelled like old man cologne. Wait. Highest trim, but no cruise? Odd, but okay, it's still an older VW. Shoulder belts only? Not 3 point? So no lap belt, only shoulder? I can't say I've ever seen that. No power locks on a high trim? I can understand the lack of ABS. GM did away with standard ABS in the late 90s or early 00s on most of their product line (when even the base model cargo van with nothing but an AM radio got ABS for the 1989 model year - stepdad specifically ordered it with no options outside of a 350 V8 and automatic, in loving TEXAS, with no ac... they wouldn't deliver it without some kind of radio unless he opted for a V6). It costs a small fortune (compared to most other options) to add ABS unless it's standard. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Mechanic pulls out impact gun with oil filter attachment Not emptyquoting.
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Sep 17, 2018 09:04
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Yeah the guy chose an odd selection of options and nothing was standard because 80's vw. Even catalytic converters were an option (mine doesn't have one). The higher trim got you fancy velour seats, different external trim and steering wheel and some other stuff, he did spring for premium sound. I didn't believe it had no lap belts either but the built sheet that came with it confirmed it. On top of that they were door mount shoulder belts. I got rid of those right away because what the gently caress. Edit: Behold the front shoulder-only belt. That tab on the left attached to the door before I cut it off.  GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Mechanic pulls out impact gun with oil filter attachment Somewhere someone has done this. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 12:55
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A big part of the reason why I swore VWs off forever is this piece of poo poo: The VW 090 Automatic transmission. Absolutely hateful piece of garbage. 3 forward speeds and no lockup converter. The drive for the oil pump in the transmission is carried from the torque converter all the way to the far end of the transmission via a pump shaft that is several feet long. The cooler that exchanges heat with the engine cooling system will leak and make the strawberry milkshake, the seal between the automatic section on the end and the final drive will break down and mix gear oil and ATF. And it's part of the old school of automatics in that it's a terrible power sponge. This is the sort of autobox that needs to be behind a big rear end V8 in order to deliver any kind of performance, except that would make it explode because it's a pile of dogshit that can barely stand up to the power of a VW 4 cylinder. The Torque converter is a circle of insanity that looks like this. It has the ring gear for the starter welded to the fan(?).  The Flex Plate that goes behind it is this nutty triangular piece of work.  Certain versions seem to have plastic accumulator pistons, thrust washers, and the one way clutch sprag cage in the one I took apart was plastic too. Proof here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7835491 Vanagoon fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 13:22
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Autoexec.bat posted:You guys should come change my oil filter. I wonder how Jiffy Lube would tackle that...(rhetorical question).
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Sep 17, 2018 13:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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Yeah I've heard stories of the terribleness of the 090. My VW has the 010, the 090's newer sibling that shares a bunch of parts. It is still 3 speed and looks similar but doesn't have the stupid long shaft or milkshake exchanger (mine's the transaxle type). It did have the seal from the final drive to the rest of the trans go though. Not sure of other differences but the 010 is a lot stronger than the 090, or at least the late ones were. It is still an old power draining slush-box though but I can't be arsed to regularly drive a manual in Atlanta.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 13:40
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Autoexec.bat posted:You guys should come change my oil filter. As always, nobody hate-fucks as hard as Germany.
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Sep 17, 2018 14:03
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The BMW m50 I6 has an alloy housing up the top where you undo one bolt with a 13mm spanner to remove a cap, then shove a paper element in and replace the o ring. Just as simple as a GM 3.6L v6 with a fixed alloy housing and paper element insert up top of the motor. If they can do it then everyone should and the metal can cartridges screwed on at the side or under should be banned for being a PITA and wasteful. GM pretty accessible  BMW front and centre 
Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 14:08
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Almost every car I've owned has had a horizontal filter mounted on the front of the block between engine and radiator, so until somebody on here pointed out that you can slap a plastic bag over the filter and let it drop into that, changes resembled a crane game trying to hook an oil filled filter up and out between hot engine parts. Luckily I have long noodle arms and can do an NA Miata filter, with inlet bracket present, with only minimal blood loss.
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Sep 17, 2018 14:27
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Fo3 posted:The BMW m50 I6 has an alloy housing up the top where you undo one bolt with a 13mm spanner to remove a cap, then shove a paper element in and replace the o ring. Just as simple as a GM 3.6L v6 with a fixed alloy housing and paper element insert up top of the motor. If they can do it then everyone should and the metal can cartridges screwed on at the side or under should be banned for being a PITA and wasteful. As a previous poster has said...somewhere, somehow, some one will nail it with an impact wrench.
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Sep 17, 2018 15:50
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Wasabi the J posted:Nothing makes changing oil easier than Subarus upside-down-in-it's-own-cup oil filter fitting, and fitting a Fumoto valve drain plug on my wife's Impreza. I've always wondered about this setup. What happens when you drive through a muddy puddle and splash the engine bay in dirty water. Doesn't it go into that drain cup and end up in the crankcase? Even just driving in a really dusty climate I'd think there would be some dust ingress to the engine from that drain. How do they keep crankcase blowby from coming out of there? Questions I've never had answers to...
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Sep 17, 2018 16:28
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chrisgt posted:I've always wondered about this setup. What happens when you drive through a muddy puddle and splash the engine bay in dirty water. Doesn't it go into that drain cup and end up in the crankcase? Even just driving in a really dusty climate I'd think there would be some dust ingress to the engine from that drain. How do they keep crankcase blowby from coming out of there? File this under "ten autistic fucks would actually contemplate." In short, this thread.
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Sep 17, 2018 16:36
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I've been hearing a rattling/grinding noise from the passenger rear of my Mazda 2 for the last couple months but haven't had time to really address it. Initially diagnosed as a bearing going south, I finally got my dead stepdads poo poo out of my garage after long last and had space to dick around. The DDMWorks rear sway bar reinforcement had slowly vibrated loose. 5 minutes with a 18/19mm and there's no more rattle/clank/whirrgrind noise. I am an idiot, but at least I get to return this brand new bearing to RockAuto. 9 months ago it was $30. Now they're $85. Tariffs!!!! 
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Sep 17, 2018 19:33
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chrisgt posted:I've always wondered about this setup. What happens when you drive through a muddy puddle and splash the engine bay in dirty water. Doesn't it go into that drain cup and end up in the crankcase? No, because there's an oil filter with a rubber gasket in the cup. This keeps the water out and you can wipe it out before the next oil change. chrisgt posted:Even just driving in a really dusty climate I'd think there would be some dust ingress to the engine from that drain. No, because there's an oil filter with a rubber gasket in the cup. This keeps the dust out and you can wipe it out before the next oil change. chrisgt posted:How do they keep crankcase blowby from coming out of there? There's an oil filter with a rubber gasket in the cup. This keeps the oil in and you can check for leaks between your oil changes.
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Sep 17, 2018 19:47
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Man can you imagine if an oil filter was just hanging out, exposed to the elements? Like say if it was tucked underneath the car and just got all sorts of stuff on it? That would be pretty wacky.
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Sep 17, 2018 19:51
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KakerMix posted:Man can you imagine if an oil filter was just hanging out, exposed to the elements? Like say if it was tucked underneath the car and just got all sorts of stuff on it? That would be pretty wacky. You're crazy. No car company would dare.
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Sep 17, 2018 20:01
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Funny thing is probably engineers are thinking "we can almost gain .25 MPG" if we placed it there.
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Sep 17, 2018 20:03
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MC Hawking posted:I've been hearing a rattling/grinding noise from the passenger rear of my Mazda 2 for the last couple months but haven't had time to really address it. Initially diagnosed as a bearing going south, I finally got my dead stepdads poo poo out of my garage after long last and had space to dick around. So that's why the clearance bearings for my car were ~$4 and the regular ones were $25. I can't believe that the tariffs had such an immediate effect
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Sep 17, 2018 21:28
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Finally went after the rub strips on the '93 Roadmaster wagon.  Apparently, they started working loose at some point, and the old PO that had it from new decided to re-attach them to the chrome moldings with Gorilla Glue...over the factory 2-sided adhesive tape - and it pushed out all over. Since it failed again, I'm guessed the PO never bothered to clean any surfaces before trowellling it on. So, half of them were off when I bought it, and the rest were hanging off. I removed them all before I took it to a car wash right after I got it running. I initially worked on the rub strips with razor blades & Exacto knives. That was fruitless & damaging, besides taking forever. Since I have approximately 900-feet to clean, it was eventually discovered that an angle grinder running a scrubbie wheel took the glue, as well as the old 3M tape (or whatever GM used), off most expeditiously; a light touch and extreme care was required to avoid removing vinyl as well. Once the worst of it is off, WD-40 will be employed, then a water-based degreaser. Once they're done, it's on to the chrome...which I hope will be easier, as the Gorilla Glue dries hard and will chip straight off. Hopefully. Seeking recommendations for adhesive. Probably will go back with 3M double-sided 3/8", although it is hideously expensive. I've also toyed with black silicone adhesive caulk. Thoughts? More photos when I get home tomorrow.
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Sep 18, 2018 02:17
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Wasabi the J posted:No, because there's an oil filter with a rubber gasket in the cup. I think what they are asking is where the cup drains to, which is something I also am curious about. I get that the filter seals but the cup is supposed to catch oil as it drains from the filter as you remove it (and again after you pre-fill the new filter and fit it) does the cup drain to the sump or does it drain elsewhere?
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Sep 18, 2018 03:01
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Laserface posted:I think what they are asking is where the cup drains to, which is something I also am curious about. I get that the filter seals but the cup is supposed to catch oil as it drains from the filter as you remove it (and again after you pre-fill the new filter and fit it)
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Sep 18, 2018 03:33
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wallaka posted:Almost all of the oil should already be drained out of the filter before you remove it. Not sure if the cup actually has a drain. Don't have one in front of me but yeah I kind of assume it's a lipped cup, with a lip that the filter gasket seals against with the outter edge being slightly lower. Whatever oil comes out is just drips as you point out, the oil should have already been drained. Since the filter is upside down already it isn't like it's filled either. Just wipe the cup and the bit of oil that's in there?
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Sep 18, 2018 03:54
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Fo3 posted:The BMW m50 I6 has an alloy housing up the top where you undo one bolt with a 13mm spanner to remove a cap, then shove a paper element in and replace the o ring. Just as simple as a GM 3.6L v6 with a fixed alloy housing and paper element insert up top of the motor. If they can do it then everyone should and the metal can cartridges screwed on at the side or under should be banned for being a PITA and wasteful. GM's 4 cylinders moved to this with the introduction of the Ecotec line as well, though the 1st gen Ecotecs (like what I have) use a 32mm low profile socket... and you usually need a U-joint, since it's just under the edge of the intake manifold. Still a lot easier than a metal canister though, oil changes take me 10 minutes. And if you eventually crack the plastic cap on the GM, replacements are common and cheap.
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Sep 18, 2018 05:24
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STR posted:GM's 4 cylinders moved to this with the introduction of the Ecotec line as well, though the 1st gen Ecotecs (like what I have) use a 32mm low profile socket... and you usually need a U-joint, since it's just under the edge of the intake manifold. Still a lot easier than a metal canister though, oil changes take me 10 minutes. Oh god, those loving plastic oil filter housings under the intake manifold. What a pain in the rear end. I feel like one of those broke on me every week when I worked at a shop.
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Sep 18, 2018 16:26
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Fo3 posted:GM pretty accessible MY17 GTI is like this. Pretty simple change. Could only be easier with an extractor.
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Sep 18, 2018 16:50
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Interior upgrade day! Cheapo factory interior replaced with 2017+ model leather panels, leather shift knob and ebrake handle, and alcantara gauge cluster, shifter and e-brake boots, and an embroidered dash.   
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Sep 18, 2018 18:18
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Wasabi the J posted:Nothing makes changing oil easier than Subarus upside-down-in-it's-own-cup oil filter fitting, and fitting a Fumoto valve drain plug on my wife's Impreza. The Mazda rotaries did that, only they forgot the teacup, so it's easy to change, but still pees everywhere. clutchpuck posted:Installed a new clutch master cylinder and stainless braided line I got from Mazdatrix forever ago. The old cylinder was the crustiest part I've ever seen. Amateur.  and also:  Laserface posted:I think what they are asking is where the cup drains to, which is something I also am curious about. I get that the filter seals but the cup is supposed to catch oil as it drains from the filter as you remove it (and again after you pre-fill the new filter and fit it) It doesn't drain anywhere when the oil filter is screwed on. Anything that gets in there will just sit there, as alluded to by Wasabi J. Does remind me that, while the oil filter on the 2.2 on my wife's GMC Sonoma was the standard sticking-out-of-the-side-of-the-block affair, GM actually had the forethought on that truck to attach a little plastic channel just under the filter that ran down to right next to the drain plug, so when the filter inevitably puked while removing it, it just dribbled down the channel into the drain pan you already had there under the drain plug, rather than all over the crossmember that was directly beneath the filter location. Amazing!
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Sep 18, 2018 23:32
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Finally got around to plastidipping my 300C. Got it washed, masked, and then degreased. I used their ProLine product because I have spray guns and an air compressor, and I wanted the smoother finish. I put on the primer, and got all the coats of black down. I put about 3 coats of the Plum Pearl on it, and a friend stopped by with a leaky tire asking for help. 2 nails out and repaired with plugs later, he was back on the road. I started again, but my gun was acting up. Something had dried or plugged the tip, I was trying to get it out and I spilled a whole cup down the side of the driver's rear door. It's hosed. Luckily I didn't quite use all the product, so tomorrow morning I might try to to peel the door off and redo just that panel. Everything was just going too smooth.
EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Sep 19, 2018 |
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Sep 19, 2018 02:21
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Ville Valo posted:Interior upgrade day! Cheapo factory interior replaced with 2017+ model leather panels, leather shift knob and ebrake handle, and alcantara gauge cluster, shifter and e-brake boots, and an embroidered dash. The red rim tape is pretty poppin'!
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Sep 19, 2018 02:36
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EvilBeard posted:Finally got around to plastidipping my 300C. Got it washed, masked, and then degreased. I used their ProLine product because I have spray guns and an air compressor, and I wanted the smoother finish. I put on the primer, and got all the coats of black down. I put about 3 coats of the Plum Pearl on it, and a friend stopped by with a leaky tire asking for help. 2 nails out and repaired with plugs later, he was back on the road. I started again, but my gun was acting up. Something had dried or plugged the tip, I was trying to get it out and I spilled a whole cup down the side of the driver's rear door. It's hosed. Luckily I didn't quite use all the product, so tomorrow morning I might try to to peel the door off and redo just that panel. Everything was just going too smooth. Oh that sucks. Looks great otherwise. Are you going to do the clear over the top (and matte)?
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Sep 19, 2018 03:38
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MC Hawking posted:The red rim tape is pretty poppin'! They're actually painted metal, like 80 bux a pop from BBS 
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Sep 19, 2018 04:38
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Poisonlizard posted:Oh that sucks. Looks great otherwise. Are you going to do the clear over the top (and matte)? Yeah, I have satin clear to put over the top.
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Sep 19, 2018 04:47
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How good does the paint need to be for plastidip to adhere (and not show flaws)? My paint on the roof rails started peeling off when I got a bit too aggressive trying to remove leftover adhesive (PO thought covering the side rails + top windshield gasket + top rear window gasket in duct tape would fix the clogged sunroof drains... ), and a door has a big chunk taken out of it thanks to someone slamming a door into it. I don't really give a poo poo about the existing paint on the car, I just want it to look a bit better than it does now for the year or so that I'll have this thing. Plastic body panels, so everything's straight, it just doesn't have a flat surface to adhere to where the paint has come off. chrisgt posted:Oh god, those loving plastic oil filter housings under the intake manifold. What a pain in the rear end. I feel like one of those broke on me every week when I worked at a shop. I've never had a problem with mine in 6 years, aside from the socket getting stuck on the current one. I gave up trying to remove the socket; at least this way, I know where it is for future oil changes... Pretty sure someone gave the cap an ugga dugga for the PO's last oil change; I could usually remove them with a crescent wrench on the old car. Hence why the socket is stuck; the crescent wrench deformed it a bit.  It's not the original cap (or OEM), so that may have played a part. My old car had the OEM cap when I got it at 60k, still had the original one when it hit the salvage yard with 203k. I can see having problems when the last shop overtightened though. I probably would have broken mine had I not stopped trying to remove it after it started deforming.
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Sep 19, 2018 06:24
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STR posted:How good does the paint need to be for plastidip to adhere (and not show flaws)? I have no idea about adherence because I sanded and prepped the part with 800 grit but my one experience with aerosol plastidip did not fill as many flaws as I was expecting. Even after 6ish layers. Used metalizer plastidip sometime last week, I'd call this a little bigger than a hairline crack but its still very visible.   I wanted more of an aluminum look so I'll have to redo this at some point but for now it matches stock well. Maybe a white undercoat would have given me what I was looking for. Thankfully plastidip.
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Sep 19, 2018 16:10
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STR posted:How good does the paint need to be for plastidip to adhere (and not show flaws)? My paint on the roof rails started peeling off when I got a bit too aggressive trying to remove leftover adhesive (PO thought covering the side rails + top windshield gasket + top rear window gasket in duct tape would fix the clogged sunroof drains... as long as it's clean and wash/degrease it, plastidip will stick to most everything (except glass). As for hiding flaws, it's not super super great at that. Dents and dings will still show, but small scratches and such will be covered. I chose to do this because the paint was bubbling up behind the passenger side rear door. I sanded it down, and primed it before I dipped the car. Before I dip again, I'll get some ezsand and fill the pits and make it smoother. This is just a first real full car dip job. I made a few small errors, that I definitely learned from, so it'll be much better the next time around. The painting part doesn't take as long as the washing/masking. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Sep 19, 2018 |
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Sep 19, 2018 17:22
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EvilBeard posted:as long as it's clean and wash/degrease it, plastidip will stick to most everything (except glass). As for hiding flaws, it's not super super great at that. Dents and dings will still show, but small scratches and such will be covered. I chose to do this because the paint was bubbling up behind the passenger side rear door. I sanded it down, and primed it before I dipped the car. Before I dip again, I'll get some ezsand and fill the pits and make it smoother. This is just a first real full car dip job. I made a few small errors, that I definitely learned from, so it'll be much better the next time around. The painting part doesn't take as long as the washing/masking. I look at your hideously awesome purple 300 and then look at my very tiny and not much at all beater AZ-1 and think about how "easy" and inexpensive it could be. Do you mind giving an overall description of what you used and how you did it? I've got the money, time, and facilities to attempt to do this but I'd love to build off your knowledge.
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Sep 19, 2018 19:13
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KakerMix posted:I look at your hideously awesome purple 300 and then look at my very tiny and not much at all beater AZ-1 and think about how "easy" and inexpensive it could be. Do you mind giving an overall description of what you used and how you did it? I've got the money, time, and facilities to attempt to do this but I'd love to build off your knowledge. I used DYC ProLine dip. I bought a kit sized for my car, but it was about 6 gallons worth. It came with Primer, Base Coat, and then Clear. I bought Plum Crazy pearls to mix into the satin clear. I got a gallon of their Predip Spray which is just a degreaser. I washed my car the night before, using dawn to strip the wax and everything off of it. I left it overnight in the garage to make sure it was dry. The next day I wiped it down with predip spray and then started masking. I took the rear taillights out because it was just easier. Just remember that anywhere there is going to be a line of tape right against the dip, you have to peel it off while it's still wet. Otherwise it'll dry to the tape and it'll start to peel when you unmask it. After that, I got my gun ready. I have a DeVilbiss StartingLine set of guns I got off Amazon. I also bought a DeKupps set which is the disposable liners so I don't have to clean the cup all the time. I set the gun around 23 PSI and then loaded it up with the Primer (which is clear). I put one coat of primer down pretty light, and then went back and made sure I got it nice and wet and overlapped half of fan. The key is you have to put it on wet. The way it works is that each coat will "rewet" the previous layers with the thinner that's in it. If you put it on nice and wet, it'll dry as one solid coat, making it smooth. I gave the primer about 15 minutes to dry, and then switched to the black. I put 4 coats of matte black down, then I mixed the pearl into the clear and started putting down the topcoat. I just kept putting coats on it, giving it about 10-15 minutes to dry between coats. You have to be sure to use "all" of the product you're given. That will ensure that the dip is thick enough to come off easily when it's time. I didn't use quite all of it, as I had maybe 1/4 of a gallon of black left since my car is pretty large and it wouldn't do a whole pass around the car. As soon as you get the last coat down, start peeling anything where the tape meets the dip. I missed just a few parts and I got a slight peel on the edge around a window and right under the grill. I think next time I'm going to go with a bright orange dip, something along the lines of Hemi Orange. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Sep 19, 2018 |
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Sep 19, 2018 19:24
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My FXT was rocking the stock STi intercooler hose on a TD04, so it was a little stretched. Last week the hose decided it didn’t really want to be on there anymore so I ordered the Mishimoto IC hose kit. The turbo to intercooler hose is about 1.5” longer so it fits perfectly. Also replaced the other two silicone pieces because, hey, they came in the kit so why not?  
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Sep 19, 2018 19:26
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Ordered it a present: Racing Beat Power Pulse full system; header, presilencer, and muffler. I hope my connecting pipe is actually from the same year as the car! Bought the current "I think it's for a 12a" exhaust out of the back of somebody's van  Update, ordered it another present: A guy I know modifies Nikki carbs for... whatever 12a setup you got, these days he's building blow-through setups for them. He's going to build me a Nikki sized for my 1974 port-spec'd 12a on a Racing Beat Power Pulse, set up with mechanical secondaries and the oil metering intact. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Sep 20, 2018 |
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Sep 19, 2018 22:29
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