|
I finished my skirmish force for an escalation league that starts tomorrow. They're far from amazing, but I learned a ton just from painting these 8, so I hope my army will look really rad once it's all done in a few months.
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 01:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 19:41 |
|
|
Stupid question: Does humidity also affect adhesive when building minis? I tried putting some of the Deathwing Knights together today out in the shed (because I needed someplace that was somewhat ventilated to use the Tamiya Extra Thin cement). However, it's raining, and the humidity is around 70%. It started getting messed up when I tried to attach the torso to the legs. I tried putting extra amounts of cement, and then super glue, but it wouldn't stay attached.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 02:35
|
|
|
Well, moisture makes super glue dry faster. Dunno what it would do to plastic glue though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 04:18
|
|
|
The edge highlighting makes it look a little cartoony, but I like that, so shine on you magnificent bastard.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 08:01
|
|
|
You know what really doesn’t help your painting backlog? An actual decent non lovely Spider-Man game.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 08:19
|
|
|
Badablack posted:Well, moisture makes super glue dry faster. Dunno what it would do to plastic glue though. It could be that's it's cold too. That might make it dry slower. It probably didn't help that when I was first trying to glue it, part of it fell off and fell into a pan of oil that was under the workbench, meaning I had to go and try and wash it off to continue.  I checked it a few minutes ago, and it seems to have bonded fully now. I didn't get the little blade the goes on torso on, but I guess I can try that again later. For now, it's got excess glue covered on it. Hopefully, I can peel it off, and hopefully the other don't have any issues. Badablack posted:You know what really doesn’t help your painting backlog? An actual decent non lovely Spider-Man game. I also love Neversoft's Spider-Man. I know you mean the Insomniac game (which I've heard is good, haven't picked it up yet), but the PS1 Spider-Man games were good, too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 08:35
|
|
|
Just finished up two Kastelan Robots with custom heads and pauldrons and everything magnetized. Took a while to find the custom bits and a paint style that I actually enjoyed on these guys, and I really like how they turned out.    
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 09:26
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:Just finished up two Kastelan Robots with custom heads and pauldrons and everything magnetized. Took a while to find the custom bits and a paint style that I actually enjoyed on these guys, and I really like how they turned out. I love the verdigris on the head-hood-thing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 09:34
|
|
|
Badablack posted:You know what really doesn’t help your painting backlog? An actual decent non lovely Spider-Man game. This, but Shadow of the Tomb Raider.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 14:00
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:(because I needed someplace that was somewhat ventilated to use the Tamiya Extra Thin cement). Wait, does tamiya require more ventilation than normally when
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 17:59
|
|
|
Revelation 2-13 posted:Wait, does tamiya require more ventilation than normally when Extra Thin is going to evaporate a lot more readily so you'll breathe in more of it, but unless you're gluing a lot of stuff, I don't know that you really need more than a decent-sized room and the ability to open the window when you're done.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 18:23
|
|
|
big_g posted:I have on a whim done some edge highlighting which may look at bit obtrusive at this scale but I think will work especially with a bit more weathering to go. What do you think?
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 18:29
|
|
|
Schadenboner posted:I love the verdigris on the head-hood-thing. Thanks! I was going for a fairly subtle look on that, and I think it turned out well. Was pretty easy too. Painted the head Balthasar Gold, washed with Agrax Earthshade then Nuln Oil. Washed the whole head with Nihlikh Oxide (the verdigris paint), then dabbed up most of it with a paper towel. Once dry, I gave the head one additional wash of Agrax Earthshade to mute down the verdigris.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 20:10
|
|
|
Finished a few more recruits for my Deathwatch Kill Team.  Left to right we have: Brother Tryris Solari, a Sniper from the Raptors chapter. He scored a lot of kills at NOVA, including a great long-range shot on an enemy AdMech sniper. Brother Vorn Garadon AKA The Wall. He can shrug off damage that would take out a Terminator. Notably, he tanked multiple flamer hits and some plasma while charging once and then utterly wrecked his opponents. Sgt. Gunnar Orksbane, rather reckless for a Sergeant, he is apt to charge even in the face overwhelming fire. Particularly memorable was a charge on 6 different Tau soldiers, including 3 pathfinders armed with special weapons. He survived their devastating overwatch and proceeded to massacre his way through the soft Tau bodies.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2018 21:13
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:Thanks! I was going for a fairly subtle look on that, and I think it turned out well. Was pretty easy too. Painted the head Balthasar Gold, washed with Agrax Earthshade then Nuln Oil. Washed the whole head with Nihlikh Oxide (the verdigris paint), then dabbed up most of it with a paper towel. Once dry, I gave the head one additional wash of Agrax Earthshade to mute down the verdigris. You mentioned they were custom heads: where from? The only ones I know are Wargame Exclusive's (if you're able to set their  tiddy models aside they make really good vehicle parts) but those don't look like the ones you have.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 00:32
|
|
|
Schadenboner posted:You mentioned they were custom heads: where from? The only ones I know are Wargame Exclusive's (if you're able to set their Heads: https://www.shapeways.com/product/SYV65ZEAZ/martian-robot-castle-head-for-conversion?optionId=62730238 Pauldrons: https://www.shapeways.com/product/UJWQKXQAC/castle-type-pauldron-version-2-x4?optionId=63817532 They were a bit pricey, but I'd rather spend the extra $10 per model to build ones that I love, rather than fricken Baymax from Big Hero 6. Warning though, the head is a couple millimeters narrower and shallower than the in-box one, meaning it just sort of floats around in the neck socket. I had to make a green stuff base inside the torso for the head to rest on. Once it was attached there, I then had to greenstuff the whole area where the head meets the neck to make them actually connect. I picked up a set of silicon clay brushes to smooth out the green stuff on the neck socket so it looks more-or-less seemless, but that was a decent amount of work. The area between the braces in this picture is basically just green stuff, and it entirely encircles the head. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 01:46
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:Heads: https://www.shapeways.com/product/SYV65ZEAZ/martian-robot-castle-head-for-conversion?optionId=62730238 Thanks! I'll bookmark that guy, someone to look at once my budget finally goes through. I'll be 100% honest though, I don't hate the original heads, as long as you do this with them?  
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 01:56
|
|
|
Schadenboner posted:Thanks! I'll bookmark that guy, someone to look at once my budget finally goes through. I prefer the full weeb approach. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 02:20
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:I prefer the full weeb approach. It's... it's not like I punchy you or anything!
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 02:30
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:I prefer the full weeb approach. They look so happy.  The Kastelan robots look cool and like they'd be easier to paint than a Titan Knight in some aspects. One paint scheme I saw for it that I really liked was this one, where they painted it with rust effects and sort-of retro '50s colors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kasEpLchmCI&t=495s Schadenboner posted:You mentioned they were custom heads: where from? The only ones I know are Wargame Exclusive's (if you're able to set their I gave that site a look. Their minis seem like they're pretty good quality from the previews ( Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Sep 17, 2018 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 03:51
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:They look so happy. I think these would look great in/alongside a 30k SA army, with the "50's SciFi" thing. I also think the teal (aqua?) and white would look good on Solars Aux (very little doesn't).
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 04:03
|
|
|
Is there a good reference out there for what paints work well as various skin colors? I'm specifically looking for Southeast Asian colors at the moment, but will need other colors in the future also. edit: Found this in the OP and it does in fact tell you specific paints http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1310 a7m2 fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Sep 17, 2018 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 13:55
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:They look so happy. Dunno where they’re based, but what’s an obvious wink-and-nod to a 40k player just looks like “Tiddy chick with big gun” to a jury, less cut and dried than it would intuitively seem. Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Sep 17, 2018 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2018 14:04
|
|
|
I think I found a partial answer to why I was having issue with the Tamiya cement: I just wasn't waiting long enough for it to dry.  The Deathwing Terminators are about nearly 4/5ths of the way done. I messed up a bit on the sergeant, where I used the wrong arm with the sword. Luckily, I was still able to separate it, and re-glued it to a different arm. I think it was still the wrong arm, now the sword's tilted a bit, which looks neat. What really annoys me is that there are some itty, bitty knives/short-swords that are supposed to attach to the torso, but I have no idea how you're supposed to attach them. They're too small to handle or position, and they don't seem to fit well against the torso.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 00:41
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:
This is how knives are modelled in this game. Even Fulgrim, an insanely detailed forgeworld primarch model, has no clear way to attach his knives. You just...glue it on. Don't think about it too hard.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 01:03
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:This is how knives are modelled in this game. Even Fulgrim, an insanely detailed forgeworld primarch model, has no clear way to attach his knives. You just...glue it on. Don't think about it too hard. The issue is the actual act of gluing it on. I thought I could get away by just slapping down some glue and holding it on there, but it just didn't want to stick. I probably need a pair of those side-tweezers to do it, since I can't seem to do it by hand. One thing that I've been thinking about while working on the Terminators is what to do with the extra parts. I got the Deathwing Command Squad box, so it comes with piece to do a Command Squad, Deathwing Knights, or just regular Terminators. I'm sort mixing it up in terms of what pieces I use, but for the most part, I didn't use a lot of the Deathwing Knight stuff. What do you usually do with the leftover pieces? At first I though you could just reintegrate if you bought another box, but you'd have the same issue at the end. The only thing I can think to do is either shop online to buy the other pieces from eBay or something to save some money, or kitbash them into something else.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 06:12
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:The issue is the actual act of gluing it on. I thought I could get away by just slapping down some glue and holding it on there, but it just didn't want to stick. I probably need a pair of those side-tweezers to do it, since I can't seem to do it by hand. I have a large box full of spare parts. It's great to have for if you want to swap a weapon or make a character with some extra personality or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 06:33
|
|
|
Booley posted:I have a large box full of spare parts. It's great to have for if you want to swap a weapon or make a character with some extra personality or whatever. This and also adding, you can use them on basing and terrain as well. Only have heads, arms, torso fronts? I think you mean... Enemy corpses! Or..fallen comrades
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 07:05
|
|
|
Keep all the spare parts they're useful for lots of things, conversions, basing and objective markers. The big dude I posted on the last page is an Ogryn with spare parts from at least three other kits. - Saw arm from GSC Acolytes - Piping from Melta gun - More piping from Scions box - =][= Logo from DW sprue.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 07:27
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:This and also adding, you can use them on basing and terrain as well. Only have heads, arms, torso fronts? I think you mean... Enemy corpses! Or..fallen comrades "Commander, I believe I have located the bodies of Captain Lithonius and the other three missing squad members" "Describe their remains." "It appears to be their heads, the front half of their torsos, and their severed arms. Bizarrely, their appear to be 11 arms, 7 of which are right arms." "...What?" Booley posted:I have a large box full of spare parts. It's great to have for if you want to swap a weapon or make a character with some extra personality or whatever. I haven't really thought about swapping pieces. That seems more like something you'd do if you were playing the tabletop game. I sort of did it today when trying to fix the sergeant's sword, but I think that was just luck with the glue still being pliable enough for me to yank it apart by hand. Clipping it apart seems like it'd go badly if the piece is really thick, but maybe a saw would work. I figured maybe I could put the heads on a stick and pair them with Orks or Chaos soldiers, or use the other parts as like some sort of armory decoration. Failing all that, I could get one of those shipping container terrain pieces, stow all the gear and weapon pieces inside of it, and then paint the container with the Blood Ravens insignia.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 07:31
|
|
|
You're never gonna regret having an organized bitz box
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 14:01
|
|
|
Schadenboner posted:Thanks! I'll bookmark that guy, someone to look at once my budget finally goes through. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 14:06
|
|
|
If I'm only airbrushing acrylics, is it still important to have an airbrush booth vent out a window? I don't really have access to one in my painting area, so right now I just go sit outside on the balcony and spray. I'd rather not have airbrushing time dictated by our lovely weather, but I'd pretty much have to rely on the filters to take care of the overspray and fumes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 15:17
|
|
|
Rock-em-Sock-em Robots reboot lookin' good!
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 15:32
|
|
|
long-rear end nips Diane posted:If I'm only airbrushing acrylics, is it still important to have an airbrush booth vent out a window? I don't really have access to one in my painting area, so right now I just go sit outside on the balcony and spray. I'd rather not have airbrushing time dictated by our lovely weather, but I'd pretty much have to rely on the filters to take care of the overspray and fumes. As long as you don't breathe in the aerosolized paint or care about the fine paint dust that will eventually get on stuff in the room, no, you don't have to vent outside or filter (other than your own mask).
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 16:11
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:As long as you don't breathe in the aerosolized paint or care about the fine paint dust that will eventually get on stuff in the room, no, you don't have to vent outside or filter (other than your own mask). I definitely care about the paint dust, I was just wondering if the filters alone would be enough to take care of it. Sounds like they probably aren't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 16:16
|
|
|
long-rear end nips Diane posted:I definitely care about the paint dust, I was just wondering if the filters alone would be enough to take care of it. Sounds like they probably aren't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 17:13
|
|
|
I made a cardboard box spray booth with a USB case fan and a furnace filter. I still spray with a dust mask, but after a year and change of airbrushing I haven't noticed any paint buildup on my stuff. Don't do this with lacquers or alcohols.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 19:05
|
|
|
So I'm on the cusp of creating an account on the Games Workshop site so I can wish-list sets to remember for later. However, before I do so, I wanted to ask what site people most recommend for ordering minis and materials. Someone mentioned Miniature Market, but I find their site a little hard to browse. It looks like you can get some GW stuff for about 15% off or so, but they've got a higher price point for free shipping ($99 for free shipping vs. Games Workshop's $65). The other I found was TheWarStore, which I think is also listed in the OP. Their site seems a lot better organized, but I couldn't find any info on shipping deals. It doesn't seem like it's a lot for US shipping, though. I also wanted to ask about some of the others I had come across. One was Warlord Games, the other was Magister Militum. Both seem to be based out of the UK. I found them while looking for more info on samurai minis. Last one is Hoards O' Bits, which I think someone recommended to me as a place to buy individual mini pieces for cheap. I just wanted to ask if anyone had any experience with any the sellers, or if there was one they preferred over the other.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2018 08:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 19:41 |
|
|
I think GW enforces a 15% discount maximum for stores in the US so it would probably be hard to find one that gets under that. At least you don't have to call them or send them an xls anymore.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2018 11:01
|
|
