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I had posted this in the Homeownership thread and completely forgot about this one. Anyone have any ideas? Having a dog of a time trying to troubleshoot my 7 year-old gas dryer (Maytag Centennial Dryer - MGDC300XW0) issue. Was working just fine and we annually clean out the lint trap and vent line thoroughly (clean the pull out lint trap every load also) and now when we go to start it it justs buzzes. According to repairclinic.com (which is SOOO convenient being on the way to work so I can just pick up the spare parts!) here is the order of troubleshooting: 1 - Thermal Fuse: "The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown." - We checked it for continuity with a multimeter, it's fine 2 - Start Switch: "To determine if the start switch is defective, attempt to start the dryer. If the dryer hums but does not start, the start switch is not at fault. " - We are humming, so no problem there 3 - Door switch: "The door switch activates when the dryer door is closed. On most dryers, the door switch makes an audible clicking sound when it activates. To determine if the door switch is working, try starting your dryer and then listen for the “click.” If the door switch makes a clicking sound, it is probably not defective." - Well, it doesn't click when I try to turn on the dryer, but when I open the door the light comes on. When I press it, the light goes off (with a click!). Possible opportunity here? Doubtful unless there's a separate path of electricity that is disconnected from the light functionality 4. Drive Motor: "If all of these parts are working properly, but the motor is making a humming noise, remove the belt from the motor and check the blower wheel for obstructions. If the blower wheel is clear of obstructions, the dryer motor might be at fault. If you suspect the motor is defective, replace it." - Bought a replacement motor after checking 1-3, replaced the blower wheel when I broke it trying to wrench it off of the motor. Thought this would be the magic bullet but after replacing both of those and reassembling the dryer, I was met with a very disappointing hum again. 5. Drive Belt: "Check the dryer belt to determine if it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it." - Really strange this is number 5, you have to remove it to get to the drive motor. Mine is very much intact and working. 6. Incoming Power Problem: My washer is on the same outlet and is working fine. I even swapped plugs to see if it for some strange reason one went bad. Nope 7. Timer: "The timer might be defective. However, this is very rarely the case. Before replacing the timer, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, test the timer by using a multimeter and consulting the wiring diagram. If the timer is defective, replace it." - I haven't troubleshot this yet, and I suppose this is my next step. The high rarity of it though doesn't have me thinking it's the cause I wanted to solicit the goon hive mind to see if there were any ideas that weren't covered here. I'll take the timer out this weekend and test it, but I'm at a loss. So is my super-handy neighbor who is a sage when it comes to this poo poo. But he doesn't know it all. Thoughts? Thanks!
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Sep 15, 2018 00:02
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TraderStav posted:I had posted this in the Homeownership thread and completely forgot about this one. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a control board on it? Take it off and look at the bottom of it to make sure there isn't an obvious soldering blowout. It's a common problem on a bunch of dryers that all share the same board, though I think it is a Kenmore / whirlpool thing.
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Sep 15, 2018 00:12
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H110Hawk posted:Is there a control board on it? Take it off and look at the bottom of it to make sure there isn't an obvious soldering blowout. It's a common problem on a bunch of dryers that all share the same board, though I think it is a Kenmore / whirlpool thing. Hrmm, I hadn't thought about that. Will look up where to find this thing. Is it typically in the area where the timers are? I didn't notice much of anything when I pulled the rest of the cabinet apart to get to the motor. edit: Are you sure the control board isn't for Electric dryers and timers for Gas? TraderStav fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Sep 15, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 00:17
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Your dryer has depression. Impatience and high expectations are making it worse.
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Sep 15, 2018 00:25
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peanut posted:Your dryer has depression. Impatience and high expectations are making it worse. I considered that. I threw two Prozac into the lint trap and waited a day. I have heard it takes time for Prozac to build effective levels though.
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Sep 15, 2018 00:28
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TraderStav posted:Hrmm, I hadn't thought about that. Will look up where to find this thing. Is it typically in the area where the timers are? I didn't notice much of anything when I pulled the rest of the cabinet apart to get to the motor. There is a motor relay and something to signal gas and spark. The gas one I fixed had all the spots for adding the second leg of power for an electric dryer. It was super obvious when I turned it over what was wrong, there was magic smoke residue everywhere.
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Sep 15, 2018 01:03
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leftist heap posted:So if getting a quote from a roofer is like pulling teeth, that's probably a bad sign right? Other roofers got back to me within 2 days, and this other one has taken multiple calls and still nothing. It's a shame cause I like the guy and he came on a recommendation, but delaying multiple times just on the quote makes me super wary. In the meantime another company not only gave me an immediate quote, but called me back to see if I had any questions on it. To give an alternate viewpoint, I needed some roofing work earlier this year and the company who sent the best guy out to quote and also gave the best quote and did some decent work on one of my neighbours homes turned out to be poo poo. I asked them to do the work, they then said that they were busier than they stated earlier and it would be 6 weeks rather than 3-4. This slipped to 8 weeks and then 12 weeks before I told them to gently caress off and left them a load of bad reviews online. Turns out that the guy who quoted me was the owner of the company but he was never 'in the office' when you rang and would never ring you back either. I also got a couple of companies (including one i had used for a different roofing repair in the past who were really good) who straight out said 'not interested, sorry' or 'we are too busy, if we quote it will be 2-3 months'. Which was refreshing. In the end I did the work myself and saved £1800 but I should probably have gone for the roofer who quoted around 25% more but where my quote was emailed out to me by a girl in the office by 9:01am the next business day, and who rang me to confirm I got it. I have also run a small business, and efficient handing off of admin and quoting work can be hard to achieve and should mean that the business is working well because the skilled staff are now out doing what they do best rather than chasing quotes. TraderStav posted:Having a dog of a time trying to troubleshoot my 7 year-old gas dryer (Maytag Centennial Dryer - MGDC300XW0) issue. To kinda slightly echo other suggestions, I had loads of weird issues with my (hotpoint) washing machine and did a lot of troubleshooting and drove loads of washing back to my mother for a week or two. Eventually I gave up and called out a local appliance shop to look at it. The guy who came out immediately diagnosed it as a control board fault and he stripped and re-soldered it within 15 minutes and made it work again. It was well worth paying their call out + diagnostic fee for his knowledge. I've since had to call them out again for other faults but have now had over 10 years of service from my £50 second hand washing machine.
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Sep 15, 2018 01:25
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This is probably a silly question. My house has no insulation in the ceiling. It was built in the 1920's maybe. Small brick house. Single storey. Winter consists of me contemplating putting on a jumper for a few days of the year. Summer practically melts steel beams. The roof is a fairly steep A frame sort of thing. Nothing special. Corrugated iron. Would putting insulation in the ceiling actually be a good idea? The whole house is a disaster. I'm fighting a losing battle over entropy but it is still a house.
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Sep 16, 2018 07:52
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Where in the world / what climate is your house in? Sounds like summer is more serious… better windows and/or wider eaves might be more effective.
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Sep 16, 2018 09:11
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Hey, my builder home is ready and we close in two weeks. I'm supposed to seal the garage and the basement, but I have no idea what to buy to do it. A bit of research says that I can go with an Epoxy seal or an Acrylic seal. Acrylic is a bit less expensive but also less durable, but possibly fine for our use (family of five, roads are salty as hell in the winter). I have to seal the driveway and the basement as well. Anyone have advice? I took a few photos last time I visited the future home. https://imgur.com/a/DkC7M32 e: found the same question from a year ago in this thread Zero VGS posted:I have an unfinished basement with what I'd call "minor" seepage when it rains hard, like spots on the floor are damp to the touch but no standing water. It was dank when I moved in but I hooked up a single dehumidifier 24/7 and smells fresh now. Careful Drums fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Sep 16, 2018 |
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Sep 16, 2018 13:53
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TraderStav posted:I had posted this in the Homeownership thread and completely forgot about this one. Anyone have any ideas? I've got the electric version of that same dryer and I had a similar problem-- it turned out on mine that there was a wire running up behind the drum that got loose and started rubbing against the drum as it spun. It burned through at some point. I just cut out the bad spot, spliced in a new wire, taped it up out of the way, and it works fine again. Took me all afternoon poking around with a multimeter to find the bad spot, though, it was way back in there.
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Sep 16, 2018 22:44
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crosshatch posted:I've got the electric version of that same dryer and I had a similar problem-- it turned out on mine that there was a wire running up behind the drum that got loose and started rubbing against the drum as it spun. It burned through at some point. I just cut out the bad spot, spliced in a new wire, taped it up out of the way, and it works fine again. Turns out it was the timer. I swapped that out and blammo fired right up! Making a bit of a grinding noise on start up now but doesn't seem to be a big deal. I probably just put something back a little off.
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Sep 16, 2018 22:46
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peanut posted:Where in the world / what climate is your house in? Australia. Down south, on the plains but really it still gets just as hot here as up north. Go a few hundred km south and the climate changes completely. I don't even pretend to understand why, but it is what it is. The worst summer days tend to hit around 50*C. Usually in the 40s consistently for a few months of the year. I have no doubt that improvements could be made where you said. The east and north(ish) facing sides the verandahs were enclosed. The east side is manageable with the evaporative cooler blowing through from my bedroom window to outside (remember it was a filled in verandah). But the north... holy poo poo. It's a struggle to keep it in the low 40s in summer. Again, remember enclosed verandah, so no roof space. Just iron on top and masonite underneath the rafters. The inner walls are the same. The outer walls are made out of that which we will not mention. The north side is mostly window. Just eyeballing maybe 5 square metres. Actual wall is a bit over a half metre underneath, maybe 15cm above, and perhaps 20cm to the sides of the back door. All built to be a habitable oven / coolroom combo. A few days ago, after living here for like a decade I looked at the pair of canvas outdoor rollup blinds which are hanging in the west facing verandah and realised and confirmed after measuring that they are a suitable width for the north facing windows, so I'm thinking I might move them. The thing is they kind of protect the kitchen from the afternoon sun which comes in under the western verandah roof anyway. Oh, I forgot to mention, the two remaining verandah sides (south and west) are about 2m deep like the two enclosed sides, and have the same covering on the lower portion of the outside as the north and east rooms, and have flyscreen enclosing the rest. I'm thinking perhaps removing the flyscreen on the west side and replacing it with a heavy shadecloth, but I don't know.
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Sep 16, 2018 23:49
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West and North will definitely have the harshest sunlight in Australia. That sounds got as a greenhouse... paint the roof white, maybe add some insulation yeah, anything is better than what you have now (nothing), and get some external shades.
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Sep 17, 2018 02:35
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Washing an aluminum siding house that hasn't been cleaned in at least a decade is a real bitch, let me tell you.
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Sep 21, 2018 20:55
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Is this a reasonable estimate to have basically all of the outlets in a 1960 raised ranch rewired? They are currently 2-prong and there is drop-ceiling access below the rooms throughout, save for the "last two rooms" that are above the garage. Recommendations Install 5 circuits for kitchen and install additional circuit off of counter top $1585.00 Install one dedicated circuits for outlet circuits in living room- run new circuit to each outlet (6) $1319.00 Install new circuit for bathroom with new junction box and gfci outlet - $485 Install grounding rods for main disconnect $399.00 Install new circuit for bedroom Beside bathroom and daisy chain 4 outlets $935.00 Install conduit and 2x4 junction for garage light switch -$149.00 Run new garage circuit and install 3 new outlets in conduit $985.00 Install 9 arc faults breakers $835.00 1350.00 to do last two rooms 6 year warranty It seemed a bit high to me but what do I know.
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Sep 24, 2018 20:04
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I paid around £7000 for two electricians to from-scratch wire and fit new sockets, lights, and switches to every room in a 4 bed house, 4-6 lights per room, including two bathrooms and a kitchen with a dedicated 50A/230V line. They had access into all ceilings and walls which may have helped?
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Sep 24, 2018 20:17
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willroc7 posted:1350.00 to do last two rooms
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Sep 24, 2018 20:20
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willroc7 posted:Is this a reasonable estimate to have basically all of the outlets in a 1960 raised ranch rewired? They are currently 2-prong and there is drop-ceiling access below the rooms throughout, save for the "last two rooms" that are above the garage. How many rooms and sqft is the house? For around $10k-12k I had my whole 1250 sqft house rewired, including a new 200a panel, and a 100a subpanel trenched to the garage. Los Angeles County, but the burbs.
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Sep 24, 2018 20:42
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I'm in the midwest, the house is 1900sq ft, and there are probably 3-4 outlets in each of those rooms. It's a 4 bed 3 bath house where one bed and bath is part of addition that has grounded outlets already. This did not include lighting, pretty sure. Thanks for the replies. So the estimate is not that unreasonable? Should I bother with additional quotes? I was planning on 1-2 more. I'm of the mind to just get the whole thing done now and bite the bullet but my wife is balking at the price and wants to just do the kitchen and have a whole house surge protector put in for now. It is our first house.
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Sep 24, 2018 20:58
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IMO always get more quotes, but be wary of the really cheap ones.
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Sep 24, 2018 20:59
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i'm going to install an antenna on the side of my house so I can get decent reception for OTA TV but I'm not sure what kind of fastener I should use through hardie plank siding. Stainless?
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Sep 25, 2018 20:47
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BraveUlysses posted:i'm going to install an antenna on the side of my house so I can get decent reception for OTA TV but I'm not sure what kind of fastener I should use through hardie plank siding. Stainless? Stainless should work fine. Anything corrosion resistant, really.
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Sep 25, 2018 21:07
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We have similar siding, our builder was very clear about needing a layer of wood under the cement board anywhere that something would be attached to the exterior. It would be very hard to add in after - Make sure you find a stud before drilling! (For small stuff like house numbers he recommended glue or double-sided duct tape.)
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Sep 25, 2018 23:11
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Hmm well the house should have OSB behind the siding so I should be ok as far as that goes
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Sep 26, 2018 02:00
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You ever have one of those nights where you get up to go to the bathroom and you hear dripping? Then you realize your ac unit is leaking in your attic?
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Sep 26, 2018 07:10
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BraveUlysses posted:Hmm well the house should have OSB behind the siding so I should be ok as far as that goes Ours has a 1-2cm gap between the siding and moisture barrier for air circulation, so the siding would crack or buckle without wood filler underneath. I've also seen all-osb style construction. Can any Home Spergs* explain/compare the benefits of moisture barrier vs osb? *earn Sperg Points redeemable itt!
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Sep 26, 2018 08:09
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peanut posted:Ours has a 1-2cm gap between the siding and moisture barrier for air circulation, so the siding would crack or buckle without wood filler underneath. I've also seen all-osb style construction. Can any Home Spergs* explain/compare the benefits of moisture barrier vs osb? My understanding is that there isn't really a difference; OSB2+ is just normal OSB with a waterproof coating, so it's the equivalent of normal OSB (or some other structural sheeting) with a moisture barrier (like house wrap) on top. The benefits of an air gap are the same in both cases, and I would imagine are largely dependent on the material your siding is made of, since theoretically your coated OSB or moisture barrier don't require much drying out compared to e.g. wooden cladding. So the presence of OSB isn't necessarily an indicator that there isn't an air gap, and vice versa for a moisture barrier.
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Sep 26, 2018 11:40
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5 points to Sperglepuff!
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Sep 26, 2018 12:23
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One beam of knotty wood cracked in our garage. The other beams did not apologize immediately.  Funny story, when he hooked up the power for the garage door it didn't get energize. After staring at the wires with a meter and swearing several times I told him not to worry about it and just un-wire everything that wasn't the door. Then the maiden voyage of the door post-hookup it went right past the stop and crashed into the plastic light cover, tripped the manual release, and came slamming down closed.  Turns out dirt got into the contact and blowing it out with air fixed it. Given no one got hurt and the door stayed on its track it was pretty funny to watch happen.
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Sep 27, 2018 17:44
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Double posting, unless you people think I should make a thread. It would be pretty short and boring given most of the work is going to be done by contractors. Took the day off work today and went to Lowes to buy wiring stuff. Met a resident old dude who is a retired ME/EE who got bored so he works weekends at Lowes to pass the time while getting to help people. He seemed to know what he was talking about and was helpful in pointing me in the right direction, making sure I had the right stuff, etc. He moves at his own pace, and he doesn't fear being fired because he can afford his retirement without it. Got home and sorted through the crap I bought only to realize that I bought nothing to clamp the wires to the knockouts in the panel. 
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Sep 29, 2018 03:53
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Doing some insulation and finishing on the stud walls in my garage. The corners look like this: This is looking down with the green representing 2x4 studs at 16" center and the red representing the footer/header. The corners are 2x4 studs doubled up. My question is, what is the proper way to drywall a corner like this? I could just add 2 studs or strips to either side of the doubled up studs so that I have something to anchor the drywall to, but is there a better way?
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Oct 6, 2018 13:48
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Gorson posted:Doing some insulation and finishing on the stud walls in my garage. The corners look like this: That’s where you nail in all your scrap 2x4 cutoffs left over from framing. I do the same thing when two sheets meet on the same stud in the middle of a wall to avoid having to squeeze screws right at the edge of both sheets. If you don’t have scrap wood, keep a few cheap 2x2s on hand.
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Oct 6, 2018 14:03
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Gorson posted:Doing some insulation and finishing on the stud walls in my garage. The corners look like this: You can add material or use what is called a 'drywall clip'. I prefer adding material, especially when you aren't concerned about energy efficiency (which you aren't in this case, given it's a solid corner). willroc7 posted:I'm in the midwest, the house is 1900sq ft, and there are probably 3-4 outlets in each of those rooms. It's a 4 bed 3 bath house where one bed and bath is part of addition that has grounded outlets already. This did not include lighting, pretty sure. That quote looks fine given the size of the home. I'm a residential estimator in the midwest. You may be able to find a cheaper quote, but it really comes down to the relationship. Did the electrician seem personable? Were they well organized? Were they referred to you by someone who has used them in the past? How long have they been in business? Did you feel like they explained the work to a level of understanding you found appropriate? Are they planning to pull a permit? Do you know how far they are booking work out? All these factors are more important than the estimate itself.
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Oct 6, 2018 18:29
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So I have a Craftsman style home (about 100 years old) and while the interior isn't super original, I'd like to add some built-in shelving on one of the walls in my living room, because I want the shelves and I think it would be cool, as well as it fitting the house's style. Where on earth do I start on something like that? I'm not going to be doing the work myself unless I go the Ikea-hack route, and I have no clue what something like that might cost.
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Oct 7, 2018 00:02
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eddiewalker posted:That’s where you nail in all your scrap 2x4 cutoffs left over from framing. I was out of scrap so I picked up some 8' 2x2's and nailed them up, should work great. They were economical at about $1.50/per. I looked into the drywall clips but they were a bit more expensive than what the job required. Thanks for the suggestions!
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Oct 7, 2018 01:00
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Jaxyon posted:So I have a Craftsman style home (about 100 years old) and while the interior isn't super original, I'd like to add some built-in shelving on one of the walls in my living room, because I want the shelves and I think it would be cool, as well as it fitting the house's style. No idea of the cost (not quite there yet with my repair/built-in projects in my old house), but you'd want to call an old school carpenter if you want it done right. Ask around on places like Angie's List, NextDoor, and Thumbtack for recommendations and leads.
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Oct 7, 2018 01:25
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Jaxyon posted:So I have a Craftsman style home (about 100 years old) and while the interior isn't super original, I'd like to add some built-in shelving on one of the walls in my living room, because I want the shelves and I think it would be cool, as well as it fitting the house's style. One thing that you might consider is searching for things like "Craftsman built-in shelving plans" or other related search term and find ideas that you like. Then take those ideas to a millwork / interior carpentry shop and just talk with them to get a rough estimate on fabrication cost and time. https://artsandcraftshomes.com/interiors/immovable-furniture-built-ins-colonnades-buffets
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Oct 7, 2018 14:51
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I bought a house built in the 90's here in America a few years ago, and I'm finally getting around to redoing the basement. It's already finished, but the walls are half wood paneling (4' high), and the floor is a crappy thin carpet with seemingly no padding. Here's a pic of what it looks like. Meant to show off my gaming corner, but it's a decent example of what's going on.  I want to paint the wood paneling light gray, and put in a new darker gray carpet with a decent pad. I figured I would get it painted first, and then install the carpet after, just so that if there's any painting slops it's just going onto carpet we're tossing out anyway. But, I'm not sure if the carpet installers will have to pop off the trim or install new ones, so maybe it should be the other way around? Is there anything else to watch out for when carpeting a basement? It's been dry, and there's no sign of leaks anywhere. This is our first 'big' project, and I feel like I might be overlooking some obvious things involved in painting/carpeting.
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Oct 8, 2018 02:03
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Ravendas posted:I bought a house built in the 90's here in America a few years ago, and I'm finally getting around to redoing the basement. It's already finished, but the walls are half wood paneling (4' high), and the floor is a crappy thin carpet with seemingly no padding. First, carpet installers rarely remove trim. They’ll just tuck unless it’s absolutely not possible. Second, have you considered a hard surface instead? Basements tend to get gross no matter what. Vinyl plank is awesome for basements. Think laminant, but waterproof. Easy to DIY. You can score it with a knife and snap it to length. Add shoe molding to your trim and throw down a fluffy rug. Lumber Liquidators has some decent stuff around $2/sqft
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Oct 8, 2018 02:56
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