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I would have taken gear out of the bag, shoved it into my pockets, and compressed the backpack as far as it could. It's a dirty trick I've done before on a soft-sided camera bag. It sucks you had to go through that (I've had similar ordeals albeit not with camera equipment). Any flight that's on a CRJ-200 or ERJ-135/145 is a red flag. CRJ-700/900s are better, E-175/190s are no problem at all.
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Sep 25, 2018 23:30
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That's why Real Pros only use iPhones as their cameras.
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Sep 25, 2018 23:31
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spog posted:That's why Real Pros only use
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Sep 26, 2018 00:54
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Verman posted:Delta forced me to gate check my camera gear this weekend ... and managed to lose it in the process. Thankfully they found it the next day and delivered it to me. Everything is working fine and unscathed but I was/am fuming pissed about the whole ordeal. I shot a wedding and was on my way home. Normally I won't check camera gear. It doesn't leave my possession. Running through Minneapolis is better than running through that loving tunnel in Detroit, so at least you won there.
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Sep 26, 2018 05:43
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I know I saw it way long ago in the thread, but could somebody please remind me the idea behind a technically-a-firearm thing? If your carry-on has a gun in it, they cannot check it?
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Sep 26, 2018 19:23
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ExecuDork posted:I know I saw it way long ago in the thread, but could somebody please remind me the idea behind a technically-a-firearm thing? If your carry-on has a gun in it, they cannot check it? They have to check it, but you can put a real lock on it, and they keep very close tabs on firearms so their workers don't jack it.
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Sep 26, 2018 19:29
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TSA can't open it once a firearm had been declared in the luggage. This is advantageous because large bags with expensive equipment in my experience is more likely to be damaged if they search the bag.
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Sep 26, 2018 |
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Sep 26, 2018 19:38
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Verman posted:Delta gate contractors in Grand Rapids. I'll bet half my mileage balance that the baggage handler did this intentionally to spite you for some sick reason. Don't get me wrong, they are shockingly incompetent but think of this objectively from the viewpoint of a guy who is getting paid $15/hr to load bags on a plane outside. By you desperately trying to avoid it, you stuck out to that guy and maybe rubbed him the wrong way in his sick mind. He likely wanted to get back at you in the only way he could. On gate-checking your best course of action is not to play up the value or importance. Just agree, get your claim check and sit down. Your far-side rights are the same either way (which are only $3,500 domestically anyway). All of the recommendations above on making sure you can carry your camera gear and avoid mishandled tomfoolery are 100% valid and great ideas. All I'm saying is that if you find yourself where you may need to gate-check on a tiny plane, be inconspicuous. As has been mentioned previously, your only compensation hope now is going to be miles, and honestly I don't think you will get many if any. Short of that guy outing himself by posting an Instagram of "Watch me lose Verman's bag" they are going to hide behind bureaucracy and make you crazy the more you push. In the end you pulled the cards out before hand (which was very smart), you got your gear back two days later and its undamaged. Is it frustrating? Absolutely. Will anything change? Probably not. I know this isn't as comforting a post as you want and I don't want you to think it's an attack. Just trying to help so hopefully next time your bag arrives with you.
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Sep 26, 2018 20:01
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KennyG posted:I'll bet half my mileage balance that the baggage handler did this intentionally to spite you for some sick reason. Don't get me wrong, they are shockingly incompetent but think of this objectively from the viewpoint of a guy who is getting paid $15/hr to load bags on a plane outside. By you desperately trying to avoid it, you stuck out to that guy and maybe rubbed him the wrong way in his sick mind. He likely wanted to get back at you in the only way he could. On gate-checking your best course of action is not to play up the value or importance. Just agree, get your claim check and sit down. Your far-side rights are the same either way (which are only $3,500 domestically anyway). All of the recommendations above on making sure you can carry your camera gear and avoid mishandled tomfoolery are 100% valid and great ideas. All I'm saying is that if you find yourself where you may need to gate-check on a tiny plane, be inconspicuous. I agree with this pretty much. poo poo get lost on occasion even when it seems like there's no possible way it should. Delta found it right away and delivered it to your house for free (not guaranteed to happen, I've had to drive back to the airport before), so I think they feel like they've done their duty. And they're not going to make exceptions about carry on size because once they do then everyone will start wanting it. Your best bet may be to argue that they did not give you adequate warning when you bought the ticket that the plane was under-sized compared to standard planes and had more restrictions on carry-ons. (and that if you had known, you would have packed differently and/or made alternative travel arrangements). Do companies still monitor social media for troubleshooting purposes? I've known of some folks who, rather than starting with customer service, started politely bitching on twitter and got some recompense. But that was a while ago, and people with lots of followers, so don't know whether to suggest that now. Heck, maybe some miles and some drink vouchers are worth a 45 minute call to customer service. I don't know. I just feel like, unless you are like super platinum flyer club or whatever, every airline is going to make you miserable at some point, so unless they REALLY f you over and then poo poo on you afterwards, it's probably a "grass is always greener" situation. Except for United, gently caress them.
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Sep 26, 2018 20:18
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I’m not sure whether to post this in the film thread or here. I just received an FD Mount lens from KEH. They shipped it with the silver mount ring locked. I am careful with my FD Mount lenses to *not* play with the levers or ring to avoid this locking up because I don’t know how to unlock it, and google is just showing results for a stuck aperture when I search for it. Does anyone know what I’m supposed to do to unlock the ring so I can mount it? This is an old style FD lens so it isn’t the one with the chrome button (it is a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 3.5), but rather the rotating silver ring that you turn to lock it onto the camera or adapter.
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Sep 26, 2018 22:48
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Yeah I've pretty much given up on trying to get anything in return. Initially I was irate but I refuse to take it out on people who weren't the root cause. I've worked customer service before and acting like an rear end in a top hat only makes things worse. They could see it in my face and were working to resolve the issue. It was a huge hassle and incredibly stressful/irritating but in the long run it was on a return trip from a paying gig so I didn't miss anything and wasn't without gear for the paying part of my trip. I'm honestly surprised that the baggage agent didn't offer me something in compensation for what happened. I didn't expect a free flight but I was surprised nothing was offered for the hassle. Not even a follow up call/email to make sure my bags arrived safely to my door. As far as the baggage handler, I didn't tell him anything about my bag. The gate agent was the one I told about the contents because I was still trying to negotiate not checking my bags. The baggage handler came up from outside into the jet bridge and I handed him my bags without saying anything. Overall I was irritated for a few reasons. 1 that Delta hosed up. 2 that I didn't have a better plan for something like this. and 3 that they never followed up to ensure the issue was properly resolved or try to compensate me for the hassle. I haven't flown delta a whole lot but I will stick to my trusted airlines from now on even if I have to pay a little extra. Do they care about losing my business? I doubt it. I'm just one person but I'll certainly take my business elsewhere.
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Sep 26, 2018 23:02
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rio posted:I’m not sure whether to post this in the film thread or here. I just received an FD Mount lens from KEH. They shipped it with the silver mount ring locked. I am careful with my FD Mount lenses to *not* play with the levers or ring to avoid this locking up because I don’t know how to unlock it, and google is just showing results for a stuck aperture when I search for it. Does anyone know what I’m supposed to do to unlock the ring so I can mount it? This is an old style FD lens so it isn’t the one with the chrome button (it is a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 3.5), but rather the rotating silver ring that you turn to lock it onto the camera or adapter. Is the red dot lined up with the aperture mark? The chrome rings on my older FD lenses don't rotate unless mounted. Once pressed on to the mount the ring rotates itself mostly closed with a spring on its own.
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Sep 27, 2018 00:14
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Sauer posted:Is the red dot lined up with the aperture mark? The chrome rings on my older FD lenses don't rotate unless mounted. Once pressed on to the mount the ring rotates itself mostly closed with a spring on its own. I figured it out - I mounted it on the adapter and nothing happened, which is what was confusing me. When I put a spare back lens cap on though the ring would turn so I assume it was some pin that the adapter wasn’t making contact with. I had a later version of the lens and was expecting something similar with this earlier version but drat is it bigger and heavier and doesn’t balance well on the a7ii. The way it switches to macro mode is pretty odd as well, unless that was standard back in the day.
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Sep 27, 2018 00:44
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Paul MaudDib posted:They have to check it, but you can put a real lock on it, and they keep very close tabs on firearms so their workers don't jack it. Airline workers like to masturbate whilst looking at guns?
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Sep 27, 2018 11:08
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WhatEvil posted:Airline workers like to masturbate whilst looking at guns? I assume they are masturbating all the time.
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Sep 27, 2018 11:50
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i masturbate while i post
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Sep 27, 2018 15:47
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I just noticed something strange while testing out a new lens, an FD mount Vivitar Series 1 70-210 3.5. I am not one to take pictures of brick walls and pixel peep but I took these just as an extreme example so that is the disclaimer. I was shooting a photo, out to test the lens, and saw what looked like a gradient filter at the top of the frame. After some messing around it appeared that as I increased my shutter speed that it got more pronounced, starting around 1/1500” to be noticeable and extreme by 1/8000”. I tried another lens and this didn’t happen. So I went back to the Vivitar and tried some things, eventually turning off the electronic first curtain shutter and that fixed the problem. I have the solution but I’m wondering why this is happening, and why it doesn’t happen across all lenses if it is happening at all. I know about how things in motion will be affected by the electronic first curtain but I’ve never heard of this before. Here are two extreme, lovely examples. Both are 1/8000” but the first has the electronic first curtain shutter ok and the second off.   Edit: I should also mention that this happens throughout the zoom range at any aperture.
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Sep 27, 2018 17:18
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rio posted:I had a later version of the lens and was expecting something similar with this earlier version but drat is it bigger and heavier and doesn’t balance well on the a7ii. The way it switches to macro mode is pretty odd as well, unless that was standard back in the day. Which one do you have now? https://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm I've got a Version 1 in FD mount at home, I haven't played with it much at all, nor even looked at it for months, but I remember it having a rather unique way to switch into / out of macro. I don't think that weird rotate all the way, then zoom (or the reverse, can't remember) mechanism was common, never mind standard. Later versions of that lens (I have a V4 in KA mount; it's not very good) and other Vivitar Series 1 lenses I've handled do macro (if so equipped) the usual way.
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Sep 27, 2018 20:38
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ExecuDork posted:Which one do you have now? https://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm It is the Kiron version, which does have the odd macro mechanism. That actually threw me off when the lens arrived since it wasn’t focusing at the wider side and then I discovered how the macro switch worked. I had one of the smaller versions but it got too full of fungus which is why I ordered this one, but didn’t realize from the ebay photo that it was the earlier Kiron version. It is definitely more unwieldy than the smaller variants, and heavier (or at least it feels heavier. It is extremely clean for its age though and performs as well as I remember my old one performing before the fungus. I’ve been messing with it and I still can’t figure out why it is exhibiting that gradient filter look at the top of the frame when using the electronic front curtain shutter at higher shutter speeds.
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Sep 27, 2018 23:13
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There any decent all-purpose micro 4/3 lenses for under 400$? I'm going to Japan in January and am planning on picking up a new lens for the trip. I was fine swapping primes around on my last vacation, but it was to Yellowstone where there was lots of driving around and it was easy to carry a backpack, but walking around all day having to carry a pack with extra lenses might start wearing thin. My gut wants me to buy a 35mm color skopar for my Bessa R, because drat is it perfect and it'd make for some great street shots in Tokyo, but the logical part of my brain knows that a flexible lens for my m43 would probably be "better". Or maybe I'll just say gently caress it and get the skopar and deal with swapping lenses whenever 25mm isn't ideal. I suppose in Tokyo I won't be needing a telephoto as much as I did in Yellowstone, anyways. ...I may have talked myself out of the m43 lens over the course of writing this post, but still would like recommendations for the future.
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Sep 28, 2018 03:23
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CodfishCartographer posted:There any decent all-purpose micro 4/3 lenses for under 400$? I'm going to Japan in January and am planning on picking up a new lens for the trip. I was fine swapping primes around on my last vacation, but it was to Yellowstone where there was lots of driving around and it was easy to carry a backpack, but walking around all day having to carry a pack with extra lenses might start wearing thin. I'm a little confused: why do you need a backpack for m4/3 prime lenses? I walk around with a 20mm but for those indoor shots, I may pull out a 14mm which literally fits inside a shirt pocket.
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Sep 28, 2018 08:30
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Yeah I'm a bit lost by that as well. Any of the wider primes are great all-rounders, and if you want zoom, the 40-150mm f/4-5.6 is dirt cheap and runs well. THe 25mm f/1.8 is an awesome tiny prime and is like $299 new. The 14-150mm f/4-5.6 gets good reviews and is about $400 used.
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Sep 28, 2018 14:58
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DJExile posted:Yeah I'm a bit lost by that as well. Any of the wider primes are great all-rounders, and if you want zoom, the 40-150mm f/4-5.6 is dirt cheap and runs well. I was mostly looking for a single all-around lens just so I don’t gotta worry about swapping lenses except when I specifically need a telephoto or something. I use the panasonic 25/1.7 and it’s not huge or anything, but too big to fit in a pocket. I also have the 40-150 which is super great, but also too big for a pocket. Obviously these lenses aren’t super bulky or heavy, but still to be carried around in a separate bag and swapped in between. The 14-150 seems about what I’m looking for, since then I wouldn’t need to carry around anything other than the one lens on the camera. Also poo poo, it’s got the same aperture as the 40-150, maybe i’ll sell that and get the 14-150, unless the glass is significantly worse or something.
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Sep 28, 2018 17:01
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CodfishCartographer posted:I was mostly looking for a single all-around lens just so I don’t gotta worry about swapping lenses except when I specifically need a telephoto or something. If you have a cell phone that was made in the last 5 years then you have a pocketable camera that can shoot most things just fine so long as you know basic framing and can hold it steady. What body do you have because honestly very few mirrorless bodies themselves are going to be truly pocketable, regardless of what lens is attached to them.
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Sep 28, 2018 17:11
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DJExile posted:If you have a cell phone that was made in the last 5 years then you have a pocketable camera that can shoot most things just fine so long as you know basic framing and can hold it steady. I’ve got an EM10 mkii, and I’m fine with the camera with a lens on it not being pocketable; I can just hang it from my neck. More I was just worried about carrying other lenses in case I want to get closer or wider than my 25mm prime - the 14mm pancake looks awesome and can easily fit in a pocket, but what do I do with the 25mm while I’m shooting with the 14? I guess i could just hold onto it and swap back when I’m done with the 14mm, but a single, more flexible lens would be nice. Or I could just deal with only having a 25mm and accept I might miss some shots that are close.
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Sep 28, 2018 17:25
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CodfishCartographer posted:I’ve got an EM10 mkii, and I’m fine with the camera with a lens on it not being pocketable; I can just hang it from my neck. More I was just worried about carrying other lenses in case I want to get closer or wider than my 25mm prime - the 14mm pancake looks awesome and can easily fit in a pocket, but what do I do with the 25mm while I’m shooting with the 14? I guess i could just hold onto it and swap back when I’m done with the 14mm, but a single, more flexible lens would be nice. Or I could just deal with only having a 25mm and accept I might miss some shots that are close. I think you're overthinking this a bit. If you're good with the Panny 14mm already, then stick to that and work on the challenge of taking your shots with a wide prime. It can very much be done and I think you'll be impressed with what you come back with. Their 20mm f/1.7 is also nice but frankly I don't think you're going to see a world of difference between them, and taking the time to swap them back and forth is probably a little silly, doubly so if you can just move yourself closer or further back. E: if you want a kit zoom of some variety, there are hundreds of different lens pouches out there that would hold it just fine and could be stashed in a small backpack while you don't need them. None of them are going to have the low-light speed of the primes though. What are you looking to shoot while you're over there? DJExile fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Sep 28, 2018 |
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Sep 28, 2018 17:32
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I would also recommend just the 14mm, unless you have something planned where you know you'll need a telephoto lens. I definitely find 50mm eq. too limiting in tight spaces, and a 35mm eq. crop is still 12mp on your body, if you want it. You can't really get good background separation but context is probably better for travel pics anyway.
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Sep 28, 2018 21:31
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What's a good cheap hot-shoe flash with tilt/swivel head so I can bounce it off the ceiling? I forget the model number of the badass Vivitar I was issued in college, I want one if those. (Have to shoot an indoor thing next weekend, the payment might co er 3/4 the price of the light, but I need it anyway, so why not?)
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Sep 29, 2018 01:21
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Chillbro Baggins posted:What's a good cheap hot-shoe flash with tilt/swivel head so I can bounce it off the ceiling? I forget the model number of the badass Vivitar I was issued in college, I want one if those. (Have to shoot an indoor thing next weekend, the payment might co er 3/4 the price of the light, but I need it anyway, so why not?) It's not super on the cheap end but I have a Sigma EF-630 (in Sigma TTL) that is basically my go-to portable flash since it has a sync socket and is quite well designed (and lets you be lazy on the move - you can feed it ISO/aperture and it tells you effective range). It's about half the price of Canon/Nikon equivalents. The problem is that it's getting very hard to find high powered, portable (non-monolight style) non-TTL flash, so you should be shopping for features that work for you. The market shifted pretty hard into manual monolights vs ttl hot-shoe. Yonguno and Godox are about half the price of the Sigma yet again but you're going to have to pick a TTL you probably don't care about. Worst case, remove the extra pins. Vivitar still makes cheaper flashes than the Godox/Yonguno stuff but none of them are high power without TTL (I would consider a GN of ~20 meters at ISO 100 at the widest setting 'high power' for diffused/bounced indoor lighting environments, so that may seem overkill to you, but I spent a lot of time shooting in bad light and having to bring my own entirely). Somebody else in thread may pay more attention to this space than I do and have a better answer.
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Sep 29, 2018 01:50
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Comedy option: how much do monolights cost? If I can light the room like a basketball court for, say, $200, I'm open to suggestions. Edit: I was a newspaper photog for ten years, I want my kitbto be lightweight. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Sep 29, 2018 |
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Sep 29, 2018 02:09
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Comedy option: how much do monolights cost? If I can light the room like a basketball court for, say, $200, I'm open to suggestions. Comedy answer: Adorama Flashpoint series, there's a sub-$200 600 watt second flash that actually is 600ws, and it's well built (I made a repair to one - my fault - and can vouge for them internally). I have six. Problem is the battery pack is $155 and lasts maybe 200 frames with that strobe. Oh, and monolights are big.  Edit: they're $245 right now as not on sale, welp. windex fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Sep 29, 2018 |
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Sep 29, 2018 03:39
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Chillbro Baggins posted:What's a good cheap hot-shoe flash with tilt/swivel head so I can bounce it off the ceiling? I forget the model number of the badass Vivitar I was issued in college, I want one if those. (Have to shoot an indoor thing next weekend, the payment might co er 3/4 the price of the light, but I need it anyway, so why not?) Godox or yuongo.
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Sep 29, 2018 04:20
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The Vivitar was the 283 or 285, no longer made, the used ones don't ship quick enough, will look into the ones you suggested, thanks. Re comedy monolite option: I'm just shooting a birthday party, but will keep it in mind if I get back into studio stuff/basketball. (My college photo prof had monolites set up around the basketball court, students got a radio trigger for them, he put a flash trigger on them as well for former students who worked for the local newspaper so we could activate them with on-camera flash.) Edit: ended up buying a different no-name from what was recommended, but it has 4.5 stars and more features than the similarly-priced Godox. Also got a 50mm f/1.8 that's been sitting in my wish list for years, because I can afford it now (my first SLR was an OM-1 with a 50 f/1.8 that my father bought in 1976. I loved that lens, never needed a flash with it. Of course, a sixteenth of an inch DOF, but that's good enough for newsprint when you're shooting, say, a stage play or the Rangerettes in the gym with TMax 3200 pushed a couple stops, as I often did for the college newspaper.) If only Nikon had a cheap fast 40mm pancake like Canon does, that'd be perfect to use as a body cap. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Sep 30, 2018 |
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Sep 30, 2018 00:32
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A nikon 24mm pancake would have been nice too. Or an apsc 18mm for either.
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Sep 30, 2018 02:36
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Chillbro Baggins posted:The Vivitar was the 283 or 285, no longer made, the used ones don't ship quick enough, will look into the ones you suggested, thanks. I have three 285HVs and I would not be comfortable selling those used. They do not age well.
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Sep 30, 2018 02:45
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Fools Infinite posted:A nikon 24mm pancake would have been nice too. Or an apsc 18mm for either. *not always by choice, as the part-time guy I was sharing lenses with the other guys, and one of them broke his 17-35 so it was stuck at 17.
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Sep 30, 2018 04:27
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Does anyone know about old constant aperture zoom lenses and have any recommendations? I was reading up on the Vivitar 35-85 2.8 and read it was pretty bad, but the 28-90 (although not constant 2.8-3.5, close enough) is much better. I’m having fun with my old lenses but haven’t looked into any closer range zooms so thought I’d ask to see if anyone has any recommendations, and constant aperture (or close to it) is intriguing to see how they dealt with it back in the day.
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Sep 30, 2018 18:33
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The tokina at-x pro 28-70 2.6-2.8 zoom isn't quite constant aperture, but pretty close. It was supposedly one of the best mid-range zooms of its day. Based on an angenieux design. More information is at this site. Speaking of angenieux, they also made a 70-210 3.5 that was pretty much better than a lot of primes in that range back in the day. Still a very expensive collector's item. It was produced in Leica R-mount.
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Sep 30, 2018 20:41
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SMERSH Mouth posted:2.6-2.8 Woah, that’s weird.
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Sep 30, 2018 21:38
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This is a bit late, but re: traveling with camera bags: This obviously wouldn't work when there's no place on the plane to put a carry-on, but for trips where overhead space is available but limited, I've had good luck with outright bribery. Have cash on hand. Tell the flight attendant it's important to you and you'll hand $20 (or $50 if you feel that's appropriate) on the spot to anyone who gate-checks your bag so your can put yours in the space. It hasn't come up often, but it's also never failed me. You might have to wait until the plane is mostly-empty to move around and retrieve it, but someone always volunteers.
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Sep 30, 2018 22:48
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