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Oh, I see what you're saying. Yeah, I've noticed the rev hang. Took me a lot of getting used to when I was still new to driving a stick. Something like driving through a garage felt weird because I felt like I was having to rev the engine more than I thought I should. What I didn't realize was that the ECU would adjust it so much based off your driving. That's really weird. It was seriously lugging the car when trying to accelerate in 1st, to the point where I thought it was going to stall in 1st at 2-3k RPMs. Thanks for taking the time to explain.
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Sep 27, 2018 14:39
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Like I said though, I do drive an 05, thats just me speculating, I'm just going off what others have said here so take it with a grain of salt.
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Sep 27, 2018 14:58
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Understood, thank you either way.
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Sep 27, 2018 15:07
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This is mostly a Jamal question, but anyone else that knows feel free to answer. The "Build it" option on subaru.com for the WRX shows that you can add a STI short shift kit for $425, and an STI performance exhaust for $1770. Pretty sure I could put a car on stands and bolt in an aftermarket exhaust myself, but: How hard is an aftermarket shift kit to install at home? What kind of prices are you looking at for kit+shop install for a shift kit? How does the factory STI exhaust compare to the popular aftermarket exhausts, both price and performance?
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Sep 27, 2018 15:56
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:This is mostly a Jamal question, but anyone else that knows feel free to answer. I've done both of these. Get the parts from Jamal and save some money. The actual work can be done on jack stands, but if you snap a bolt it can be a pain. With an impact gun you could bang this out in a full weekend. Start on Friday afternoon I'm case something goes wrong.
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Sep 27, 2018 16:34
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If you do just the shifter itself and not the bushings that part will take you less than an hour. It's real easy. Removing the plastic bits to get to it though on a new car is a little traumatizing though.
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Sep 27, 2018 17:24
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The shifter setup on the current wrx, and other cars with that transmission, is very different from everything else. Instead of a linkage of rods they use cables to shift. The sti/spt dealer installed kit replaces the whole base and lever and stuff in the center console. Most of the aftermarket kits are just a different block that sits on the transmission and changes the motion ratio where the cables attach. It looks like this:  These are pretty inexpensive and not too hard to change, and combined with a plastic block that sits on the shifter assembly to create a stop and take out some excessive play, you get a good improvement to the shift feel and a shorter throw for like $130. There is one place that makes a replacement lever to go into the stock base as well. Thing I don't know is how it all compares. But the cheaper and easier way is just to get the kartboy setup with the shift block, a new bushing, and the stop. I think most people are pretty happy with just that and kartboy is pretty good at making shifter parts. You can also combine some of this stuff. So like adding the shift stop to the sti/spt kit, or even combining the short shift lever/assembly with the block on the transmission. Personally I think I would save the $425 on the sti kit and just get the kartboy parts, but I haven't driven all of them back to back or anything. Actually I can only remember driving a car with that trans like once or twice. For the exhaust, yeah skip the dealer installed part for sure. A decent aftermarket catback goes for half that or less and isn't all that hard to install. Like, two bolts at the midpipe plus getting it on and off the hangers.
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Sep 27, 2018 17:52
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Bum the Sad posted:Woop new software update on my 2018 Outback, just shoved my USB stick in the car. Felt good. Is it a map update or entire radio update?
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Sep 28, 2018 01:35
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdUk0sqjYHU&t=609s I was driving next to one of these today, they're loving monstrous.
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Sep 28, 2018 01:38
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nwin posted:Yeah I’m not sure how it works exactly. Using LATCH with they KeyFit, I can get the bubble in the level to *almost* be in between the two lines, but not quite, so I’m hesitant to use it. I might see if it looks any different using the seatbelt instead. For now it’s in the passenger side position with LATCH. Double check the manuals. My key fit 30 manual mentioned to check the owner's manual for the best place and i'm pretty sure neither the 15 WRX or 14 Legacy ones recommended the middle, but rather both of them said to use the sides. Not sure if it's because of the design or specific crash testing, but when you see all of the Google stuff about the middle being safer it's hard to say who's right. But I personally went with the manual's recommendation. For the 17 forester... I never looked but it will be a moot point in three months when I will have two. As for the sizes, depends. The key fit 30 and the chicco convertible we upgraded to both fit in all three of those cars. But the convertible was massive when it was rear facing and was pretty tight against the passenger seat sometimes depending on who sat in front. E: actually I was still in the 06 wrx when I had my kid. I should double check the 15's manual. E2: yeah I just checked the 06 and 15 wrx manuals and both reccomend the side seats over the middle, as the middle cushion won't allow the base to sit as flat and snug it sounds like(?). Either way it's like I don't know if that's better or not than the 43% safer statistic on Google. Since I don't know what kind of car it was even tested with. E3: here's the study all of the Google results cite https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed...Pubmed_RVDocSum 1998 to 2006 on MY 1990 cars or newer. Ages 0-3 43% less likely to be injured. While the article is a bit old, it's probably safer. 
itskage fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Sep 28, 2018 |
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Sep 28, 2018 07:02
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My brother-in-law bought a Forester XT in 2014. 10,000 miles in, he was driving to Las Vegas when "a valve dropped" and the engine blew up. Subaru replaced the whole engine, but something was screwed up and it bucked and revved and eventually they gave him a whole new car. A year later, he was driving to Mammoth, and "spark knock caused a spark plug to crack" and the car stopped running dead on the 5 before even getting past LA. Yesterday, he was driving to Las Vegas again.  
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Sep 28, 2018 17:23
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I'm sensing a common component and it isn't the car.
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Sep 28, 2018 17:27
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bull3964 posted:I'm sensing a common component and it isn't the car. I'm not going to defend him as a driver. He bought the car because he lets Eyesight do half the driving for him.
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Sep 28, 2018 17:32
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I don't think they'll let him buy another one at this point.
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Sep 28, 2018 20:03
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There's someone who had a worse Subaru experience than me!
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Sep 29, 2018 01:14
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net work error posted:Is it a map update or entire radio update? Looked like both.
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Sep 29, 2018 21:52
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Hey all, I picked up a 2005 Outback Limited this summer for winter beater duty. The temps have started dropping here, and I've realized I'm going to need a remote start or secure idle. I found out last night that the car won't let me lock the doors while the car is running. I don't need anything fancy (again, winter beater) but I'll need something that will keep the car running for 15-20 min at a stretch. Ideally something that I can start and leave running until I can come out to it - I had an 09 Silverado that would run for 10 min at a stretch before turning off, and it would do that a max of twice before I had to go out and start the car. Will an OEM setup do the trick, or should I look for a reasonable aftermarket unit? Either way, I'll be installing it myself as the keys aren't chipped.
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Oct 1, 2018 04:03
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Now I have a nice rust-free FXT. Picked it up from the Body shop after leaving it there while I was away on vacation. Also popped my winter tires on it since the all-season Michelins are pretty tired. The other stock wheels will probably get some nice summer rubber come springtime.    
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Oct 1, 2018 19:47
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Zero bucks. 2017 model, 15.7k on the clock. No callback yet on the part. My three weeks off end on Sunday, so hopefully they'll call before then so I can get the loaner. Hm, also have a 17 FXT which AC just went out (during our beach trip). All refrigerant was gone, they filled and couldn't find a leak. Now when I turn the car on theres a smell from the vents and once some steam or substance came out. Problem is I am still on vacation and don't want to deal again until I get home, already drove 2h out of way to get to dealer. Probably going to sell this loving thing, have had so many problems with it since getting it.
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Oct 2, 2018 19:56
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Took my crosstrek to get washed and apparently you're supposed to disable the pre-collision braking for carwashes. I take mine to one of those places where the attendants wash it and take it through so i'm not actually in the car - is there a way to keep pre-collision braking disabled over restarts? Also I don't suppose anyone's made eyesight camera covers for when you take the car to be washed which seems like a huge oversight from Subaru.
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Oct 2, 2018 22:35
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luminalflux posted:Took my crosstrek to get washed and apparently you're supposed to disable the pre-collision braking for carwashes. I take mine to one of those places where the attendants wash it and take it through so i'm not actually in the car - is there a way to keep pre-collision braking disabled over restarts? Have taken my 17 forester through several car washes and never disabled eyesight, haven't run into a problem with it yet
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Oct 2, 2018 22:41
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Brake assist doesn't go into panic mode if you're applying brake at all, so unless they're blasting through the car wash at 10 miles an hour there's no technical reason assists would need to be turned off. It's likely a blanket requirement, like maybe some other badge's driver assists go completely apeshit in a car wash so they have a blanket policy on it. My solution is to wash the car myself in the driveway, car washes always gently caress up the paint anyways.
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Oct 2, 2018 22:47
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xzzy posted:Brake assist doesn't go into panic mode if you're applying brake at all, so unless they're blasting through the car wash at 10 miles an hour there's no technical reason assists would need to be turned off. Teslas go bananas and either stop and damage the wash/cars behind them or take off at full speed
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Oct 2, 2018 22:50
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Sounds similar to how their CEO responds to awkward situations.
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Oct 2, 2018 22:54
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I'm guessing it has to do with car washes that use some types of conveyer system. If the car is on and registering forward motion but eyesight see an obstacle, it could apply the brakes which would be bad.
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Oct 2, 2018 22:59
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bull3964 posted:I'm guessing it has to do with car washes that use some types of conveyer system. If the car is on and registering forward motion but eyesight see an obstacle, it could apply the brakes which would be bad. Yep, this is for conveyer systems where you leave the car in neutral, specifically ones where an attendant brings it in after it's been parked (off) for a bit. I've seen reports on XV Forum about people's cars stopping sometimes in this situation
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Oct 2, 2018 23:11
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Looking at the sg for foresters,I like that style and weight for a daily. This seems a bit high for the mileage https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/166812550908550/ stgdz fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Oct 3, 2018 |
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Oct 3, 2018 04:56
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so my 09 forester has no TCS, cruise light is flashing, and engine light is on. car isnt driving any differently. google says a bunch of different poo poo from "do nothing" to "i had bent valves" does anyone actually know? one guy said his needed an oil change every 8k or he would get this and im right at 8k so i was probably going to try that first
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Oct 3, 2018 06:57
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MY INEVITABLE DEBT posted:so my 09 forester has no TCS, cruise light is flashing, and engine light is on. car isnt driving any differently. google says a bunch of different poo poo from "do nothing" to "i had bent valves" does anyone actually know? one guy said his needed an oil change every 8k or he would get this and im right at 8k so i was probably going to try that first If you live in a state besides California or Hawaii, go to Autozone or O'Reilly's or whatever big store and use their code scanner for free. If you're in one of those states then buy a scanner off Amazon that works with your phone. Then tell us the codes. Also you probably have a broken wheel speed sensor.
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Oct 3, 2018 07:28
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Replaced the gas springs for my Outbacks rear hatch yesterday. It got beyond the point of just helping the springs up, and the hatch would fall slowly and bump my head. Forgot I installed them this morning, went to retrieve something from the cargo bay, and got some of that sweet chin music.
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Oct 3, 2018 08:30
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stgdz posted:Looking at the sg for foresters,I like that style and weight for a daily. Considering the relative rarity of a manual XT, the price isn’t awful. A tad high with the cosmetic needs but not out of the ballpark. And 135k miles isn’t high; my XT has 217k and runs like new.
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Oct 3, 2018 11:38
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MY INEVITABLE DEBT posted:so my 09 forester has no TCS, cruise light is flashing, and engine light is on. car isnt driving any differently. google says a bunch of different poo poo from "do nothing" to "i had bent valves" does anyone actually know? one guy said his needed an oil change every 8k or he would get this and im right at 8k so i was probably going to try that first With some really big errors from the ECU the cruise light will flash because the car can’t do cruise controls. Misfires caused by bent or burnt valves will cause this. But if the car drives fine then it’s probably not that. You don’t know what’s going on until you get it scanned and get the codes pulled. If you fear interaction with auto parts store employees you can get a cheap OBD2 scanner from the ‘zon for like 15 bucks and pull them yourself.
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Oct 3, 2018 13:17
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Subarus are really loving stupid in the fact that they disable cruise control for pretty much any check engine light. So annoying, and nobody else does this. "Oh something is broken? Have some additional inconvenience." Engine is probably fine, something dumb probably broke like a WSS or secondary air (my case when I had a Saabaru). Get it scanned and report back the codes here.
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Oct 3, 2018 13:32
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So during a recent track night with my 05 LGT I noticed my DAM started dropping and got as low as .5. I sat the last session out and reset the ECU. Trying to find the cause, I calibrated my wideband AFR to make sure it was reading correctly. I noticed it reads about .2-.4 points higher than the Accessport...idling the Accessport will predictably report a AFR of about 14.7 from the front O2 sensor, the wideband reads 14.9-15.1. Both readings flicker around a little too. Doing a few pulls the wideband would read about 11.4-11.6 when you initially got into it but would get as high as 12 during higher gear pulls. I checked for vacuum/boost leaks. I thought I found one with my AOS, and rebuilt it, but it was really just a small leak in the oil return line. I found a small boost leak near the BPV and fixed it. Replaced the BPV hose. I also cleaned the hell out of the MAF. After fixing the boost leak I saw AFR's go up a little, predictably, 11.6-11.8 during second gear and as high as 12-12.2 in third gear. I saw a feedback knock event during this pull which is unusual in my experience so I parked it. A/F learning values during my logs seem acceptable, the worst I've ever seen is 8.59 which drops to zero in boost. I ordered a new MAF to try. Is there anything else I can try to fix the lean condition? Any good way to check fuel pressure? I notice a gas smell outside of the car sometimes right after a fill-up if it's parked in a warm garage, possibly related? The car feels fine, only have my gauges to tell me there is a problem.
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Oct 3, 2018 15:00
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Did you check for leaks by pressurizing the intake? I'd do that with some soapy water if not. What AFR is your tune targeting/what is typical that you've seen before? Have you talked to your tuner about diagnosing it?
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Oct 3, 2018 15:08
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Suburban Dad posted:Did you check for leaks by pressurizing the intake? I'd do that with some soapy water if not. I did do a 5 psi pressure test to find leaks in the intake. That’s how I found the leaking BPV. No leaks that I can detect. I can pressurize the whole intake to 5-7 psi and it slowly comes down to 0 over the course of 10-15 seconds. Car is tuned for AFR of 11.1 per the wideband at the dyno. The stupid thing is I drove without the wideband calibrated for a while and remember seeing about 11.3-11.4 on it right after the first tune when the car was running well. I didn’t pay a lot of attention to it and only used it to see if something was grossly off. I have talked to my tuner and sent him logs. I did this before I calibrated my wideband so wasn’t sure that it was caused by a lean condition. He said that the logs looked fine to him and asked me to send him a log of me hooning it until the DAM dropped. I could do that but my gauge is telling me it’s probably lean when in open loop so I figured I would rather be more scientific about it.
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Oct 3, 2018 15:29
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i own every Bionicle posted:I did do a 5 psi pressure test to find leaks in the intake. That’s how I found the leaking BPV. That doesn't seem very good, you might have more leaks. I would try aligning to TDC (assuming subaru's have some sort of timing marks externally? I don't remember when I did the timing belt) and do it again. The goal is to get all the valves, intake or exhaust closed on all cylinders so you can hold pressure and isolate the leaks. I don't know how much boost you run but adjust your compressor to that +a couple psi and see if you can find where the air is escaping. I got pretty nutty about this on my old DSM and had to replace loving every seal and gasket everywhere.
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Oct 3, 2018 16:06
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I will do a more complete test to track down any more leaks. The guide I found said that a pressure drop from the intake of 1 psi/second was OK and that’s about what I have. I was more interested in finding vacuum leaks pre-turbo since the last time I had a boost leak (from the intercooler coupling) the car ran rich which makes sense (metered air was escaping and not making it into the engine). It didn’t make sense to me that the BPV leak would cause the lean condition, I just knew it was not right and had to be fixed and hoped that it would magically make it run less lean.
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Oct 3, 2018 16:37
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Yeah if things are going more lean it would essentially have to be a leak between the maf and turbo inlet, or anything connected to there (which includes the pcv system and aos). An exhaust leak between the stock sensor and your wideband, like, at the turbo-uppipe could also cause the discrepancy you're seeing between the sensors, although I'm not sure how accurate or fast acting the oem one is. OR, a fuel issue, but that would possibly be more drastic. Like, these things don't even like to start if a clamp is loose on the feed side and if there was an issue with the pump it would likely cause more than a couple 10ths difference. But, yes, check that line and clamps from the firewall to the rails. Or, actually I think those are EFI fittings instead of clamps now so they're probably fine? There are some hose clamped lines under the manifold between the lines rails though. Vacuum line to FPR is another big one that can't ever leak a little bit. I've been hearing that a new maf is a good idea on older cars too. You'll probably get an AFR change with the new one as well.
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Oct 3, 2018 17:06
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I thought I noticed the car turned over a few more times before starting. Will check the fuel lines. When I smelt gas from it I checked under the hood because I suspected leaking injector o-rings, which has happened before, but there was no smell there. Could a leaking return line or vent line cause any drop in pressure? How likely is a failing fuel pressure regulator?
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Oct 3, 2018 17:25
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