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Haven’t built one in a while so I’m kind of fuzzy about this, what’s the purpose of snaking the hydrogen gas pipe in this design, rather than just piping it straight from the pump to the generator?
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Sep 30, 2018 02:02
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The idea is just to soak up as much heat as possible. The piping for the wiggle is cheap, and the generator will delete it all.
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Sep 30, 2018 02:46
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But there needs to be a temperature differential for anything to “soak up”, so is it just an attempt to remove some of the heat the hydrogen generator produces?
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Sep 30, 2018 03:03
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They may also be using that as a buffer tank for hydrogen
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Sep 30, 2018 03:07
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WithoutTheFezOn posted:But there needs to be a temperature differential for anything to “soak up”, so is it just an attempt to remove some of the heat the hydrogen generator produces? The gas comes out of the electrolyzer pretty hot. Wheezeworts basically just eat heat so the heat leaves the pipes for the hydrogen the wheezeworts are in. Hydrogen gas has the best heat transfer as far as gasses go and, well, your supply is just kind of right there anyway.
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Sep 30, 2018 03:22
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That design is from a while ago. Now that we have radiant pipes, stuff like temp shift plates aren't necessary (which should save people quite a bit of tungsten). The same also goes for the snake-style pipe design in the upper chamber.
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Sep 30, 2018 03:59
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I still do the pipe snaking in mine, I just do it with radiant piping for even more heat transfer. I like my SPOMs to put out pretty cold O2 as it's a good hedge against heating the living quarters. You could skip that and have some kind of centralized cooling module and put all your air through it but I tend to build feature complete SPOMs individually as I need more O2.
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Sep 30, 2018 06:20
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The thing is, heat only really matters for farms, which are trivial to cool down once you find a slush geyser. The rest of your base can be 40 degrees and you'll be totally fine.
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Sep 30, 2018 06:40
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enraged_camel posted:That design is from a while ago. Now that we have radiant pipes, stuff like temp shift plates aren't necessary (which should save people quite a bit of tungsten). Want to post a new design?
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Sep 30, 2018 14:01
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enraged_camel posted:The thing is, heat only really matters for farms, which are trivial to cool down once you find a slush geyser. The rest of your base can be 40 degrees and you'll be totally fine. It's not 'trivial' for people who are just starting enraged camel. Instead of making statements like this, why don't you lead by example?
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Sep 30, 2018 14:02
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Also Slush geysers are not guaranteed at all.
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Sep 30, 2018 15:14
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Mayveena posted:It's not 'trivial' for people who are just starting enraged camel. Instead of making statements like this, why don't you lead by example? No need to be an rear end. On my phone so I can’t post a design. Here is how it works: Run abyssalite regular pipe from liquid pump at slush geyser to just outside your farm. Once you reach your farm, switch to radiant pipe. Run single layer pipe on the base of your plants just above the farm blocks. Once done with the farm, switch back to regular pipe. That will provide your plants with sufficient cooling.
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Sep 30, 2018 17:39
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 Cool water comes from bottom left corner. It is passed through the farm. With this setup, my bristleblossoms' body temp have been at a comfortable ~15 degrees regardless of any changes in air temperature.
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Sep 30, 2018 18:30
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Thanks, I’ll store the pic for the future.
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Sep 30, 2018 22:17
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For some reason the SPOM I've been using with the same settings for months is sending oxygen with the hydrogen to the hydrogen generator so that the hydrogen generator breaks because of wrong element damage. I don't want to add a gas filter, is there some way I can play with the pressure settings to keep it from doing that? My SPOM is like the one I linked above.
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Sep 30, 2018 23:07
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The pressure settings in that link should be enough to prevent that sort of thing from happening. Check the oxygen overlay to see if there's a rogue oxygen gas tile floating around where it shouldn't. Alternatively you could leave a pipe out so you can attach a vent (and adding a switch or other automation on the gen to turn it off) then pump things back to vacuum to sort of reset everything.
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Sep 30, 2018 23:12
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Check your SPOM's output too. If you are overpressurizing the area around the output vent you can get Oxygen backup
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Oct 1, 2018 00:35
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Xand_Man posted:Check your SPOM's output too. If you are overpressurizing the area around the output vent you can get Oxygen backup That was it, I had to move the vent away.
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Oct 1, 2018 00:43
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I use a gas filter in mine. It makes the SPOM use a tiny bit more power than it produces, but the whole setup becomes a lot more robust since you no longer need to worry about oxygen backpressure.
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Oct 1, 2018 01:49
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enraged_camel posted:I use a gas filter in mine. It makes the SPOM use a tiny bit more power than it produces, but the whole setup becomes a lot more robust since you no longer need to worry about oxygen backpressure. Yeah I think I'll do that in the next one. I was trying to save space but probably not worth it.
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Oct 1, 2018 02:01
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Ok, I need help taming this copper volcano. It's nearly destroyed an AETN, it melts my tungsten autosweepers nearly immediately. Ideas?
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Oct 1, 2018 02:01
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Mayveena posted:Yeah I think I'll do that in the next one. I was trying to save space but probably not worth it. 
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Oct 1, 2018 02:06
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insta posted:Ok, I need help taming this copper volcano. It's nearly destroyed an AETN, it melts my tungsten autosweepers nearly immediately. Ideas? Slap a helmet on Stinky and send ‘im in. still working on a good idea. Maybe a metal floor to act as a basin and wick away heat? Run slush-filled pipes through it?
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Oct 1, 2018 02:08
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So far i have two natgas geysers, one cool steam, one hot water, one pwater (30C). Waiting for a slush, for sure! My next attempt will be flooding it with pwater at 10kg/s, with a temp sensor. Once the temp of the water bath drops below 80C, open some mechanised doors so my autosweepers can get to the copper. Then enclose the whole thing with abyssalite and let it simmer until dormancy. The volcano and AETN are close enough that i might be able to use a steam turbine for cooling.
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Oct 1, 2018 02:19
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Metal volcanoes are a pain in the rear end to fully automate. I got one working a while back but haven't repeated the design because it's just way too much work for not a lot of benefit, especially now that we get free metal from meteorites. (But yes, you need a pool of water underneath the volcano, with a metal base and tempshift plates, and a cooling chamber under the floor. The atmosphere in the volcano chamber must also be vacuum, otherwise the molten metal doesn't flow into the water.)
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Oct 1, 2018 02:30
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I never managed to get it super automated, my manual process was "dump polluted water onto it until it stops steaming" I thought I could use a steam generator off of that but they suck if they're not running 24/7 so I gave up on that. Where you get the water and what you do with the steam is an issue. I ended up digging a chimney up to the top and finding a vacuum tile that wasn't going to get hit by falling rocks.
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Oct 1, 2018 05:23
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Thanks! Could you post the ventilation pic too?
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Oct 1, 2018 13:21
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Oct 1, 2018 15:13
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Thanks again very helpful. Someday I may do a doc for casuals, and I think this could work, not too hard.
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Oct 1, 2018 15:31
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Mayveena posted:Thanks again very helpful. Someday I may do a doc for casuals, and I think this could work, not too hard. Mind you, that is just one of many ways to build the SPOM. I don't like sticking my wheezeworts directly inside the SPOM as an example, and rather use a separate room for cooling that doubles as a control center for regulating air flow. It might sound more complicated than it is. All I do is add valves to the outflow pipes (and maybe a loop depending on how cold I want the air), so I can force more air into public spaces and less air into rooms that are rarely used.
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Oct 1, 2018 15:46
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User0015 posted:Mind you, that is just one of many ways to build the SPOM. I don't like sticking my wheezeworts directly inside the SPOM as an example, and rather use a separate room for cooling that doubles as a control center for regulating air flow. It might sound more complicated than it is. All I do is add valves to the outflow pipes (and maybe a loop depending on how cold I want the air), so I can force more air into public spaces and less air into rooms that are rarely used. I know there are many ways to build them. If I were to write such a doc, what I'm looking for is clarity so that the blueprint is reasonably easy to follow and doesn't take up a lot of space. Putting the wheezeworts outside of the SPOM just creates (noting from a casual's point of view, not a hardcore player) more stuff to deal with. This fits in a single picture as well. If I were to do that doc, it would be a way to get to cycle 100, which I think is reasonable for a casual player.
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Oct 1, 2018 15:56
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So how is everyone attaching their manual generator to their power grids now? Recently after not playing a while I came back, and now the thin power lines between my manual generators and my battery grid keep melting ... and I don't remember this happening in the past.
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Oct 1, 2018 21:40
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meatsaw posted:So how is everyone attaching their manual generator to their power grids now? Recently after not playing a while I came back, and now the thin power lines between my manual generators and my battery grid keep melting ... and I don't remember this happening in the past.
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Oct 1, 2018 22:27
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Elizabethan Error posted:you've got to use a transformer to limit the thin powerlines to 1kW, they will overload if they surpass that amount. I see. I've set up the rest of my grid like that (generators -> batteries -> transformers -> thin 1kw networks), but I didn't know the generator side was affected. Again, have been away from this game a while. So is I there some way to trigger the manual generators when batteries get to a certain amount, like automation lines, or can the generators see the battery levels through the transformers now?
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Oct 1, 2018 22:48
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Folks, transformers don’t limit output. They take heavy watt and convert it to regular wire. If you put more than 1k of wattage into a transformer and then attach a regular wire to it, that wire will break.
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Oct 1, 2018 22:55
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Mayveena posted:Folks, transformers don’t limit output. They take heavy watt and convert it to regular wire. If you put more than 1k of wattage into a transformer and then attach a regular wire to it, that wire will break. Unless that changed just recently, I don't think that's right. transformers are supposed to protect small circuits from overload due to current in the heavy circuits by limiting the current going through the wire to the wire's defined maximum. For small wire, it's 1KW. So if you have, say, 10KW on the heavy side, and you have 800W of load on a small circuit with a transformer between them, then the transformer will limit the load going from the heavy to light to a max of 1KW, or in this case, 800W due to that being the max load on the circuit.
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Oct 1, 2018 23:35
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Mayveena posted:Folks, transformers don’t limit output. They take heavy watt and convert it to regular wire. If you put more than 1k of wattage into a transformer and then attach a regular wire to it, that wire will break. meatsaw posted:I see. I've set up the rest of my grid like that (generators -> batteries -> transformers -> thin 1kw networks), but I didn't know the generator side was affected. Again, have been away from this game a while. So is I there some way to trigger the manual generators when batteries get to a certain amount, like automation lines, or can the generators see the battery levels through the transformers now? Be warned, transformers spew out heat like gangbusters
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Oct 1, 2018 23:36
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Splicer posted:Keep all your batteries and generators, including manual generators, on the fat wire side. You can actually put your generators on thin wire and then feed them into the network via transformers by wiring it up like generator > thin wire > transformer > heavy wire. IIRC you wire the transformer so the thin wire is on the input, heavy wire on the output. The reason is that the transformer protects the thin wire from the heavy current, the thin wire can be run through walls, so there's no need for the plate blocks, and also because the decor hit on thin wire is smaller than heavy wire, and so your dupes suffer less of a penalty as a result.
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Oct 1, 2018 23:41
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neogeo0823 posted:You can actually put your generators on thin wire and then feed them into the network via transformers by wiring it up like generator > thin wire > transformer > heavy wire. IIRC you wire the transformer so the thin wire is on the input, heavy wire on the output. The reason is that the transformer protects the thin wire from the heavy current, the thin wire can be run through walls, so there's no need for the plate blocks, and also because the decor hit on thin wire is smaller than heavy wire, and so your dupes suffer less of a penalty as a result. Thank you. That makes sense. So it's either that or putting them on fat wire like Splicer suggested. I was trying to avoid the decor hit, but now I wonder what people are doing to keep the generators aware of what % the batteries are at. I don't remember the generator side wires ever melting before because of this. I don't want the dupes running the generators all the time because the transformer blocks them from seeing the battery %. The fat wire solution fixes that I guess. I went on the official forums but only found a discussion about which side of the transformers to put the batteries on ...
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Oct 1, 2018 23:47
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neogeo0823 posted:You can actually put your generators on thin wire and then feed them into the network via transformers by wiring it up like generator > thin wire > transformer > heavy wire. IIRC you wire the transformer so the thin wire is on the input, heavy wire on the output. The reason is that the transformer protects the thin wire from the heavy current, the thin wire can be run through walls, so there's no need for the plate blocks, and also because the decor hit on thin wire is smaller than heavy wire, and so your dupes suffer less of a penalty as a result. meatsaw posted:Thank you. That makes sense. So it's either that or putting them on fat wire like Splicer suggested. I was trying to avoid the decor hit, but now I wonder what people are doing to keep the generators aware of what % the batteries are at. I don't remember the generator side wires ever melting before because of this. I don't want the dupes running the generators all the time because the transformer blocks them from seeing the battery %. The fat wire solution fixes that I guess. I went on the official forums but only found a discussion about which side of the transformers to put the batteries on ...
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Oct 1, 2018 23:56
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