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The bearings on my 87 S/C MR2 went out, so I sourced a rebuilt one. Painted the new-ish supercharger with wrinkle paint, looks a lot better. Intake pipe before:  After:  S/C with just a coat of black wrinkle paint:  After red paint:  Looks sad just sitting there waiting  
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Oct 6, 2018 06:14
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Thermostat was throwing a code on my E60. Replaced the water pump, thermostat, a connecting hose, and then drained the remaining fluid and refilled with fresh coolant. It took way too long (almost 4 hours), and the hoses were a pain to remove, but I did save about $1000 doing it myself. Pump and thermostat before replacement, after moving the power steering hose and the swaybar out of the way:
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Oct 6, 2018 06:43
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MasonF posted:Looks sad just sitting there waiting I love the "Rally" vibe I'm getting from this. So drat cool. Edit: "vibe", not "vide". MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Oct 13, 2018 |
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Oct 6, 2018 08:19
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Painted and installed an SE (mesh) style grille for the DD. Looks a shitload better than the stock fish-gills imo.
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Oct 6, 2018 23:17
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 Replaced.
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Oct 7, 2018 05:26
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KakerMix posted:
What the hell happened to that poor oil drain plug?
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Oct 7, 2018 11:57
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figured out what's got my exhaust plugged up: Are these pieces worth anything to anybody? I've got this busted up one and the next in line is probably clogged too badly to be used again.
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Oct 7, 2018 17:53
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Chunjee posted:figured out what's got my exhaust plugged up: Take it to the shelter for injured cats.
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Oct 7, 2018 18:38
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chrisgt posted:Take it to the shelter for injured cats. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CdVTCDdEwI
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Oct 7, 2018 18:40
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PainterofCrap posted:What the hell happened to that poor oil drain plug? Not an oil drain plug, but an 'alignment bolt'  Keeps the stick from flopping around, 22 on the picture, the top bit is the ball of the shift lever with a notch on the back side where the front of the bolt sits. Unfortunately number 32, the 'seat ring', disintegrated at some point in the past (which probably lead to the bolt getting the poo poo kicked out of it) and I neglected to notice. Now I gotta wait 2~ more weeks because I didn't order it at the same time 
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Oct 8, 2018 01:27
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Chunjee posted:Are these pieces worth anything to anybody? Set up a backyard forge to extract the platinum?
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Oct 8, 2018 01:27
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Replaced the turbo diverters solenoid/valve/membrane thing on my MiTo. Welcome back turbo, welcome back power. It's like having a whole different car. $100 part and 15 minutes. Gone from struggling to get up to 120km/h when passing while flooring it, to flying past people using 50% throttle. (I'm making my 155hp small car sound like a Mustang, but hey, it makes a huge difference).
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Oct 8, 2018 12:30
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I've been struggling to drive my saab anywhere because it was puking coolant out of the overflow all the time, and everytime i parked up meaning that a 5 mile trip to the shops and back was about 3 litres of coolant and it was trying to overheat by the time i'd get home. I actually looked at the expansion tank cap today:  Looks like the valve in the middle is missing! when like this there is always an open route to the overflow and it would never be pressurised - which would be why it was always puking! I managed to find a spare so I could swap it and have just done about 20 miles with no coolant loss and a nice steady temp gauge  Now I can actually try and drive it a bit. It has sat for 10 years so is running a bit rough but is getting better the more I drive it. It will currently take about 0.5 bar of boost before it splutters. I changed the fuel filter and have just fed it 15 litres of Shell 99 super unleaded and have bought some octane boost/injector cleaner which I hope will make it a bit happier. Today I also attempted to fix the speedo which has a broken cog in meaning that the odo doesnt move. I super glued it and it did one rotation before breaking again...
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Oct 8, 2018 19:54
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Got the winter tires dismounted from the old WRX wheels since I don’t have the WRX anymore, and onto the current BMW wheels. Old wheels with old all-season tires.  Old wheels. They were plasti-dipped for two winters so they’re still basically perfect.  Stock BMW wheels with the Altimax tires mounted up. 
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Oct 8, 2018 21:17
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I got kind of ripped off by my local machine shop. I needed my flywheel resurfaced, and when I came in for a quote a week or so earlier, we shot the poo poo for a little bit and my dog came in the store part of the shop. The guy said $60 and it'll be finished in less than 10 minutes When I brought it in today, it was a completely different person who I'd never seen before, he was much less friendly, and the resurfacing was $95 and took 4 hours. It's a cast iron, single mass flywheel with 3 pins, not exactly rocket surgery, definitely not $95 worth of labor I also found out why my hand brake wasn't working right, the rear driver's side brake had seized and wouldn't close. I didn't finish fixing it, but I managed to get it stuck with the piston engaged 
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Oct 9, 2018 04:59
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I bought a W124 fan. If you're familiar with those cars you know the grille on that fan has a large gap (the bottom third) where the bumper sits; I remedied this for E21 use by sneaking a second grille out of the junkyard and cutting/plastic welding until I had one that covered the whole fan. Neglected to take pictures of that part. Oh and it doesn't fit  Nothing a little brute force and ignorance can't fix:  And a couple of basic brackets made of random scrap iron:  gently caress yeah. I also found out that the rest of my GDCS is a random pile of early E21, late E21 and early E30 parts which are all pretty similar but just different enough to make relocating the thermostat away from the collector on that shiny Chinese header a bit more fun. So I made this a couple weeks back, because I am kind of dumb and insist on using a K-Car TE04H instead of a more appropriate snail:    However since I employed my usual "measure sometimes, cut with a running start" philosophy the angle wasn't quite where it ought to be (I actually measured that time, but then the chopsaw got wonky and I didn't correct for that), and the 'keep the turbine housing off the valve cover and away from the fender' objective of doing that as a bigass bendy tube rather than a simple adapter plate went slightly awry giving the turbine a 300 thou interference fit with the valve cover.  I finally got around to correcting this (still need to weld the cut as you can see):  which has allowed me to do a whole bunch of fun mockup work:  Bonus pic: while I was heating the piece with a rosebud in an attempt to prevent warpage (worked on the homemade mitsudodge flange, not so much on the storebought T3 flange) I neglected to clear my workspace of things like spritz bottles...  Although it actually works better now since the nozzle is in a more natural position when spraying tires for leaks. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Oct 9, 2018 |
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Oct 9, 2018 05:57
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Went to fill up today. It was a little hard not to notice the lack of gas cap.  No CEL, and no "check gas cap" message on the DIC. The gas cap had been replaced by a PO at some point (so the tether was gone), but I find it hard to believe I could go 250 miles and at least 40 stops/starts without it popping an evap code. Or the "check gas cap" message (supposedly it does a pressure check anytime the PCM sees the fuel level increase significantly after being shut off [i.e. filling up or adding gas], to make sure the gas cap is present?). Checked for pending codes, it only had the MAP sensor code I've been fighting for months. Parking is pretty tight at my apt complex, and the last 2 nights I've scored spaces in front of my building (instead of 3-4 buildings away) just as someone was pulling out when I got home. Not entirely sure I spaced out on putting the cap back on last time I filled up, wondering if I have a passive aggressive neighbor instead.  If it goes for a walk again, I'll get a locking cap. I'm not normally paranoid, but in 25 years of driving, I've never lost a gas cap, and the one time I left the cap loose on this car after filling up, it popped the "check gas cap" message within a mile.
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Oct 9, 2018 06:50
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Got the winter tires dismounted from the old WRX wheels since I don’t have the WRX anymore, and onto the current BMW wheels.  SD 133 Checking the Ice Ferries 24 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI heartily support your choice of winter tires for your BMW. **** I finally got off my rear end and replaced the burnt-out bulbs in my Ranger's instrument panel.  New hotness, old and busted by Martin Brummell, on Flickr 5 out of 6 bulbs now work by Martin Brummell, on FlickrBefore, 5 out 6 were burnt, so at night I could see oil pressure and the battery gauge, now (somehow) it's the exact opposite. Oh well, being able to see that my gas tank is nearly empty before the red light comes on is a nice new thing for me and I'm happy. Also, can somebody please confirm that this stamp on the back of the driver-side knee-panel means that this part (and by extension, most of my truck / the interior of my truck) was assembled on 27 November 1996? What does the I / II / III dial indicate? Work shift?  My truck's dashboard was assembled on November 27 1996, so I'm taking that as her birthday. by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI found a description on some Ford forum suggesting this would take about an hour, and a video that estimated the same and both included detailed walk-throughs. For whatever reason, every description of this task has unique differences. The video took the whole radio assembly completely out, which means disconnecting half-a-dozen electrical connectors, just to access one screw holding the plastic cover panel on in front of the steering wheel. The written description suggested just loosening everything and pulling the instrument panel out through the top of the dash, after pulling a bunch of stuff forwards (it also said to disconnect the battery so I wouldn't accidentally set off the airbag - but the airbag doesn't depend on the battery, does it?). And my Haynes manual said I needed to take the steering wheel off. I got away with just moving most things out of the way until I could unscrew the cover directly over the instrument panel, then pulling the entire panel out to swap the bulbs indoors where it wasn't raining.
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Oct 9, 2018 17:21
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ExecuDork posted:Also, can somebody please confirm that this stamp on the back of the driver-side knee-panel means that this part (and by extension, most of my truck / the interior of my truck) was assembled on 27 November 1996? What does the I / II / III dial indicate? Work shift? Pretty sure that's just when the part was molded. I/II/III is work shift, yes.
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Oct 9, 2018 17:26
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KakerMix posted:Not an oil drain plug, but an 'alignment bolt' That setup is similar to Mazda's, though Mazda just uses a hardened pin rather than a bolt. Frequently a floppy shifter is the result of that bottom bushing coming apart after 20+ years. Sometimes the top one as well. I've replaced several on my various RX-7s. edit: I didn't do anything to my rides this past weekend. It rained, and I slacked. I did order a couple of tires for the Crown Vic, since the 3-year-old Falkens are too worn to fix the nail in one of them, and they're dry-rotting to boot. 35K miles. Two were already replaced under road hazard. Will be having a discussion with Discount Tire vis-a-vis the 65K mile treadwear warranty on them. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Oct 9, 2018 |
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Oct 9, 2018 20:19
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ExecuDork posted:
I used these exact tires for two winters on my WRX and now they will serve on the BMW. It's possible that I've had better winter tires but I couldn't say when.
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Oct 9, 2018 20:38
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I ran those on both my civic si and fiST, no complaints. Great winter tires.
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Oct 9, 2018 20:40
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ExecuDork posted:Also, can somebody please confirm that this stamp on the back of the driver-side knee-panel means that this part (and by extension, most of my truck / the interior of my truck) was assembled on 27 November 1996? What does the I / II / III dial indicate? Work shift? That's the date the dashboard piece was injection molded. Likely at another plant from the assembly line your truck was assembled on, and even possibly by a third party supplier. Check the door sticker, it should have the assembly month & year printed towards the top.
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Oct 9, 2018 22:23
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Finally wussed out and got road tires.  I gotta say it is goddamn amazing driving to work without earplugs though. Also, holy poo poo my gas mileage is unbelievable. These Michelin Primacy XC are really good.
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Oct 10, 2018 03:48
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ExecuDork posted:Before, 5 out 6 were burnt, so at night I could see oil pressure and the battery gauge, now (somehow) it's the exact opposite. Oh well, being able to see that my gas tank is nearly empty before the red light comes on is a nice new thing for me and I'm happy. If it makes you feel any better, that oil pressure gauge isn't real. It sits in the exact same spot if the engine has any oil pressure at all. Your check gage light should come on if it drops to 0. Alternator light should come on if the alternator takes a poo poo. So you don't really need the other side of the dash.  If you're up for pulling the cluster again, bend the contacts that meet the cluster from the sockets outward slightly (so they put a little more pressure on the circuit board when installed). Pull the bulbs out of the socket, bend the tabs toward each other slightly (placing more pressure on the bulb contacts). Get some alcohol wipes and clean the copper contact surface where the sockets meet the circuit board. You'll probably get 100% working bulbs after that, assuming you didn't get a bad bulb or two.
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Oct 10, 2018 06:41
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STR posted:If it makes you feel any better, that oil pressure gauge isn't real. It sits in the exact same spot if the engine has any oil pressure at all. I probably won't pull the dash again any time soon but it's much less of a terrible, bending-myself-into-pretzel-shapes kind of job than I was expecting so I might have a reason to dive in there again. I have two spare bulbs because I bought too many so it's not a bad idea. I am *very* familiar with the operation of the oil pressure gauge. I bought this truck in May of 2015, and in October of that year I drove it and a full U-Haul trailer 3000 km from Saskatchewan to southern Ontario. I had an oil leak at the time, so pretty rainbows in the puddles in parking lots and a quart poured in every 800-1000 km on that trip. I knew it was time to dump in more oil when the engine revs would fall despite any action on the throttle by me, usually going up hill. The leak was slow enough that the engine would catch and recover after a few seconds but it really couldn't do WOT unless I'd just topped it up. The gauge would follow the obvious engine symptoms about a second later, the needle would drop to nothing and the red light would come on. It would wobble back up to normal as the engine recovered, and I'd look for a place to park where I'd be out of highway traffic and not have to reverse my trailer to continue.
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Oct 10, 2018 17:01
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Yesterday I got new cats installed. I had to figure out what studs were and how to remove them in a hurry as the sun was going down. Then like clockwork something else breaks; today we found liquid leaking into the cabin which at first I was thought was ATF, but quickly figured out was pink coolant. Guess something has gone wrong at the heater core. I'm really tempted to put in a stopleak as I don't want to take apart the dash and possibly lose all the refrigerant.
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Oct 12, 2018 04:06
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The overlap of "leaks stop-leak can actually plug" and "systems that stop-leak won't plug up" is extremely small and down to luck, tbh. If you're keeping the car, either bypass the heater if feasible or fix it proper.
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Oct 12, 2018 04:11
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Thanks for the advice. I think this heater is bypassable and that would at least let me drive. VVV Pretty sure they both have to come out on this 2006 Xterra  NISSAN VVV
Chunjee fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Oct 12, 2018 |
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Oct 12, 2018 04:14
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Also if you're leaking coolant that's the heater core. If you had a leak in the AC coil it would be in the form of a colorless, odorless gas and/or greenish-yellow oil. Still a bitch in 99% of modern vehicles but you don't have to evacuate and refill the AC system.
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Oct 12, 2018 04:15
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Geoj posted:Also if you're leaking coolant that's the heater core. If you had a leak in the AC coil it would be in the form of a colorless, odorless gas and/or greenish-yellow oil. On a lot of vehicles, to get the heater core out the evaporator has to come out anyway.
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Oct 12, 2018 04:25
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Not on the 'good' cars. Anyway, don't use a stop leak type solution because odds are it won't stop a leak, but will maybe reduce radiator efficiency. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:21 on Oct 12, 2018 |
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Oct 12, 2018 11:18
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Laserface posted:I think what they are asking is where the cup drains to, which is something I also am curious about. I get that the filter seals but the cup is supposed to catch oil as it drains from the filter as you remove it (and again after you pre-fill the new filter and fit it) IIRC my FJ cruiser had the oil filter mounted in the same manner and it had a nipple on the cup that you could attach a rubber hose to so it'd drain down past the engine but I imagine most people changing their own oil just let the few drops drop onto the engine exterior.
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Oct 12, 2018 13:07
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Mounted the winter wheel and tire setup on ZGERMNZ. They felt heavy so I weighed them against the summer setup. Winter is stock BMW wheels with General Altimax Arctic Tires, summer is Konig Hypergrams with P Zero Nero GT Tires. The winter setup weighs 13.5lb more per corner...
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Oct 12, 2018 13:21
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I did a 3 stage polish. 
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Oct 13, 2018 01:03
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MrOnBicycle posted:I love the "Rally" vide I'm getting from this. So drat cool.
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Oct 13, 2018 01:15
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My sister purchased an '02 4Runner with 141,000 miles and what may turn out to be significant rust issues. I have prepped it for a thorough percussion analysis, tomorrow. Also have to scare up a rear lower rubber shock bushing, fender washer & bolt, since that all fell off within six hours of acquisition. I told her not to buy it. She then promptly paid $4200 for it. On the upside: the exterior body & interior are fine, everything works, and the engine & transmission seem to operate normally. Hopefully, the frame's not breakfast sausage. We'll see how it handles a thorough workout with the ball-peen. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Oct 13, 2018 |
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Oct 13, 2018 01:41
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I hate to be "that guy" but I'd feel better if I would see jack stands under there.
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Oct 13, 2018 01:50
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C-Bangin' it 
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Properly made ramps may as well be jack stands, only with even fewer moving parts to go wrong. By the look of them I'm assuming those are steel.
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Oct 13, 2018 04:31
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They are extremely heavy steel. I've had a Silverado extended cab with an 8' bed on 'em.
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Oct 13, 2018 11:27
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