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Okay, so I was a bit off, but I remembered it being some form of EFI on a crate motor.  Yeah dude, that's totally normal. Factory gauges will always make it look like it's got oil pressure a lot faster than it really does, vs your aftermarket gauge that shows you the truth. So long as it isn't making louder than normal tapping noises for more than 1-2 seconds on a cold start, you're good. If the EFI is programmable in any way, you may try adding a bit of fuel to the cold start map to smooth it out (cold engines are THIRSTY bastards). I'm gonna repeat swapping to 10w30 synthetic or blend on your next oil change. It's the factory recommended weight for most crate 350s. You'll lose a tiny bit of fuel economy (probably not even noticeable), but the engine will be happier.
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Oct 5, 2018 11:36
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I know it's a much more involved equation than this, BUT ballpark what kind of MPG hit might I expect when towing a trailer vs. not? Hauling my dad's big rear end fishing boat to the coast for him and trying to eyeball how fast I'll burn through gas. This is in my 92 ram van with the 318 v8, so I'm assuming it's capable of the task, at least.
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Oct 5, 2018 21:45
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My 91 Suburban with a 350 V8 gets about 8-10mpg when towing moderate loads, without towing it usually does 12-16. One of the things we used to tow was our old 60's motorboat when we had it. I Imagine your van would perform similarly. Also the above 350 took 10w30 out of the factory but living in the south+285k miles means we've had to bump it to 15w50 to keep pressure up, it had similar symptoms as described where it just wouldn't build pressure that started around 140k miles. After thickening it up we never had oil pressure issues again. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Oct 5, 2018 |
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Oct 5, 2018 22:31
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2014 Hyundai Accent GLS 1.6L DI DOHC 4cyl I performed a spark plug inspection today and determined I need to replace the plugs. This is good. I also managed to break the retaining tabs on the coil connectors (2 on removal and 2 on installation  ) This is bad.Retaining tab marked in red here:  And sadly also marked in red here.  I am now afraid the connectors may vibrate off the coils and cause misfires. The repair manual I have does not mention Part Numbers for these guys. Any ideas what the lowest replaceable unit would be in this case (possibly the connectors themselves)? Any ideas where to source these guys or is my only option to visit a dealer and pay all the bucks to fix my stupid mistakes?
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Oct 5, 2018 23:06
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You can definitely fix that yourself. First, zip tie the connectors tight, that's sufficient to run on. If you really want to fix it, either source the pigtails new (who knows where or how much) or go to a junkyard and cut them off a like model. There's a decent chance those plugs are not just on that model. You can probably just rebuild the connectors, but I'm not sure what that particular one is called - kastein may know, he knows way too much about plugs.
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Oct 5, 2018 23:50
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Javid posted:I know it's a much more involved equation than this, BUT ballpark what kind of MPG hit might I expect when towing a trailer vs. not? Hauling my dad's big rear end fishing boat to the coast for him and trying to eyeball how fast I'll burn through gas. Six to ten.
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Oct 6, 2018 02:25
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Is there a new England AI thread anymore?
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Oct 7, 2018 03:02
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I am really frustrated right now, hopefully, you guys can help me out. I have a 2014 Honda Accord Sport 2.4L 4-cylinder w/49k miles (in North Texas). Recently it started having an issue where it would not start. When I turned the key it would make a click then do nothing (sounded like it was a dead battery) but would start after I turned the key a couple times (sometimes it would start right up, sometimes it would take 2 or 3 attempts). We took it to the dealer to have a battery sensor recall performed (hoping it might fix the problem). We told them the issue and they told me it was the starter after doing whatever checks they did(also reading online made it seem like this was a common complaint for this vehicle). The battery was checked and once it acted the same with a jumper attached to the car. I took it to a local mechanic and had him change the starter, got the car back yesterday and it seemed to work fine. This morning my wife went to start the car to go to work and said it made a weird sound (not the same click as before) but started after she tried a time or 2 more. Same happened when she left work this evening. When she got home I had her turn the car over a couple times and one time it did not start. It sounded like the starter was spinning but not catching the flywheel. I'm not sure what the next step is to diagnose this thing. This happened the same time the compressor when out on my other car so money is a bit tight but if I need to pay someone to do diagnostics on it I will. The car should still have a powertrain warranty so if it is likely something covered by that I will take it to them.
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Oct 7, 2018 03:18
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The initial issue sounds an awful lot like a bad ground. Check the battery cables, make sure both positive and negative terminals are tight and secure to the cables, and that the terminals on the cables and the posts on the battery are clean. Baking soda and water with a wire brush are your friends here. Just make sure to rinse it all off with plenty of fresh water. The clicking sound is the starter solenoid closing, and then you’re getting not-enough-amps to turn the starter. Do a cranking-load test on the battery: Put a DMM set to DC volts across the battery terminals, and get someone to crank it while you watch. If the voltage goes much below 10.5-11v, the battery is toast. Now go from battery positive to the engine block/intake/exhaust/anything conductive that isn’t the battery, and crank it again. If the number fluctuates wildly and spikes a bunch, you have a bad electrical connection somewhere, check all the heavy-gauge battery wiring, which goes down to the starter. The second issue sounds like the bendix drive not pushing the starter gear into the flex plate teeth, which is either a lovely reman starter, the wrong part number, or they installed it wrong.
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Oct 7, 2018 03:33
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MrYenko posted:The initial issue sounds an awful lot like a bad ground. Check the battery cables, make sure both positive and negative terminals are tight and secure to the cables, and that the terminals on the cables and the posts on the battery are clean. Baking soda and water with a wire brush are your friends here. Just make sure to rinse it all off with plenty of fresh water. The battery was my first thought but I tried jumping the vehicle before the starter was changed and had the issue even with a jumper attached. If the battery was remotely old I would replace it anyways but I replaced it earlier this year (manufacture date 12/17). When I replaced the starter they told me they used a new starter but both your other thoughts are very plausible. I guess the next step is to take it back to them and try to get them to double check their work.
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Oct 7, 2018 03:57
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STR posted:Okay, so I was a bit off, but I remembered it being some form of EFI on a crate motor. It’s definitely programmable but I’m not exactly sure how to/if I can change that specific setting. I did find out that it had the idle set to 1600 rpms for whatever reason. I plan to swap to the thicker oil after I get everything else (MAP sensor, fuel gauge, whatever is wrong with my transmission) done and fixed. I recorded starting it - but that’s at home right now so I’ll throw that video up later. Oh! And I think my rear main is leaking. Neat!
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Oct 7, 2018 04:48
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My radiator's looking a bit banged up. 2007 Corolla LE. Is it time for a new radiator replacement? My engine temperature seems to be normal as well as the interior heating performance,but bits of and pieces of metal are shaving off when I run my hand across it.  Also I just replaced my radiator hoses, thermostat and holy poo poo is my Corolla cramped. I barely had any room to maneuver and move poo poo around with my socket wrenches. Is there a super-skinny /thin profile socket wrench option out there for working inside of cars like mine? Because I spent way too much time just trying to access screws and bolts and stripped the gently caress out of my alternator bolt because of it. 
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Oct 7, 2018 05:55
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Quick question about my 2017 CRV EX. Drove past a big construction site the other day, heard a whump and then a horrid grinding. I was lucky, just a wooden gardening stake snagged in the undercarriage. The only damage is a quarter sized hole in the thick fabric down there, which I assume is sound- and weather-proofing. Obviously not an urgent issue, but I'm in the Eastern US so I'd like to patch that hole before the roads get salted. Can I just buy a patch to close that hole, or does this call for more extensive service? Thanks all!
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Oct 7, 2018 06:41
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shirts and skins posted:Quick question about my 2017 CRV EX. Drove past a big construction site the other day, heard a whump and then a horrid grinding. I was lucky, just a wooden gardening stake snagged in the undercarriage. The only damage is a quarter sized hole in the thick fabric down there, which I assume is sound- and weather-proofing. Photo?
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Oct 7, 2018 08:10
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Karma Comedian posted:It’s definitely programmable but I’m not exactly sure how to/if I can change that specific setting. I did find out that it had the idle set to 1600 rpms for whatever reason. Promised video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=267R2mOmPd0
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Oct 7, 2018 14:46
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That almost sounds like the timing is way, way off, but it shouldn't clear up and run then. Edit: maybe way too much base timing and the computer is pulling it back? IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Oct 7, 2018 |
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Oct 7, 2018 15:19
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2003 Cadillac Escalade ESV -- Air Ride The rear shocks are visibly blown out. I know they need to be replaced. Am I correct the front shocks aren't on the air system? Any way to check the compressor so I can have one if needed? Also, there's some after market parts that say they no longer use the auto damping system but are still connected to the air system. What's the difference? https://www.arnottindustries.com/kit-0007-complete-gm-shock-replacement-kit I know I need two rear shocks. Any advice beyond that would be great. FortifiedTumor fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Oct 7, 2018 |
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Oct 7, 2018 19:11
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My 1997 Ford F250 HD should have an OBD2 socket, right? I thought it was required on all vehicles starting in '96. It does have the old Ford OBD1 plug under the hood.
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Oct 7, 2018 21:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:That almost sounds like the timing is way, way off, but it shouldn't clear up and run then. The last time it was in a shop they did some adjusting to the timing but to me timing is witchcraft so 
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Oct 7, 2018 21:40
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kid sinister posted:My 1997 Ford F250 HD should have an OBD2 socket, right? I thought it was required on all vehicles starting in '96. It does have the old Ford OBD1 plug under the hood. Some googling indicates that certain engine packages that year still used the EEC-IV/OBD1 system. The fact that you have an OBD1 plug supports that, but check the emissions sticker on your hood to be sure.
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Oct 7, 2018 22:00
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Fender Anarchist posted:Some googling indicates that certain engine packages that year still used the EEC-IV/OBD1 system. The fact that you have an OBD1 plug supports that, but check the emissions sticker on your hood to be sure. gently caress, you're right. It might have to do with the magical 8500 Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. My truck is 8800 GVWR. 
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Oct 7, 2018 23:36
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How hard is it to port cylinder heads on a 5.3? I have dykem and a dremel and a lot of time.
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Oct 8, 2018 01:06
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Why bother? Those heads will flow enough air to make 1k hp as they are.
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Oct 8, 2018 01:15
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Yeah, those are better than the 241s on my LS1
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Oct 8, 2018 01:31
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melon cat posted:My radiator's looking a bit banged up. 2007 Corolla LE. Is it time for a new radiator replacement? My engine temperature seems to be normal as well as the interior heating performance,but bits of and pieces of metal are shaving off when I run my hand across it. Its not leaking, heat is good, and engine not running hot? Don't gently caress with something that ain't broke. Also pick up a set of these bitches: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-24-piece-ratcheting-gearwrench-wrench-set-0580237p.html#srp
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Oct 8, 2018 03:13
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I’m getting a new car tomorrow that has leather seats, the car’s 11 years old but it was kept in such good condition that the leather still smells like new gross leather, is there a good way to dissipate the leather smell without wrecking the seats? I’ve heard people describe ‘baking’ the car to get interior smell out but I dunno if that sounds like a smart idea
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Oct 8, 2018 04:45
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kid sinister posted:My 1997 Ford F250 HD should have an OBD2 socket, right? I thought it was required on all vehicles starting in '96. It does have the old Ford OBD1 plug under the hood. To add to what others said, heavy duty trucks were exempt from OBD2 requirements until 1998 in the US. Except maybe in California.
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Oct 8, 2018 05:57
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Wowporn posted:I’m getting a new car tomorrow that has leather seats, the car’s 11 years old but it was kept in such good condition that the leather still smells like new gross leather, is there a good way to dissipate the leather smell without wrecking the seats? I’ve heard people describe ‘baking’ the car to get interior smell out but I dunno if that sounds like a smart idea Don't do anything, you'll get used to it.
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Oct 8, 2018 06:29
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Speaking of, is there a recommended product to use on vinyl seats that are starting to crack? Really don't want to redye them, which is what I found ppl doing on YouTube.
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Oct 8, 2018 08:14
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This is too much engine movement isn't it? I'm thinking that if it moves this much when at standstill, it must move like a bastard when pulling hard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWclyBDN0Bw At first just using idle, letting the clutch up with handbrake engaged. Getting some lift off jerks and clunks / gas on clunks if not letting on and off gas smoothly. Gearbox is smooth otherwise, no odd sounds or vibrations in the gear stick. Edit: After some YouTubing I decided to go after the cheapest and most likely faulty part - the dogbone mount. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 12:25
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Wowporn posted:I’m getting a new car tomorrow that has leather seats, the car’s 11 years old but it was kept in such good condition that the leather still smells like new gross leather, is there a good way to dissipate the leather smell without wrecking the seats? I’ve heard people describe ‘baking’ the car to get interior smell out but I dunno if that sounds like a smart idea If you can't learn to live with it like PP suggested, I guess you could try doing what I normally do with smelly cars: I bought a corona discharge ozone generator from aliexpress a few years back for like $20. It's worked very well on a handful of cars so far smelling of stale cigarette smoke, mold, nasty lingering air freshener and general funkyness. Maybe it would work on leather smell too. I've heard UV light generators are better, but they cost way more for the same 03 output. Perhaps they can be rented?
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Oct 8, 2018 12:38
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always be closing posted:Why bother? Those heads will flow enough air to make 1k hp as they are. Dyno charts showed about a 25 hp upgrade when porting. Was going to do the following texas speed or equivalent comp cam MS3 cam beehive springs Ls7 lifters Thats good for about 400hp and porting showed it was up to 425hp.
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Oct 8, 2018 13:05
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wesleywillis posted:Its not leaking, heat is good, and engine not running hot? Don't gently caress with something that ain't broke. Alright cool. I just (incorrectly) thought that busted up-looking radiator = repair time. quote:Also pick up a set of these bitches:   EDIT: Just discovered that they're called "Deep Offset" wrenches. But I do wonder if there's a version ratchet-version with removable socket heads so I can attach bolt extractor heads for the threaded bolts in there? melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 15:15
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2006 Ford F150, 4.2l V6, with ABS So, I need to change out the brake fluid because it's never been changed. I have a vacuum bleeder, so I should be able to do it myself. Is there anything special I need to do with regard to the ABS? I've read everything from just bleed like normal to some weird combination of pedal presses to disable ABS to "just take it to a dealer and let them cycle the ABS pumps".
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Oct 8, 2018 16:08
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It’s a LOT easier to gently caress up a head with hand porting than it is to make it better, especially on engines designed in the last thirty years. Either get them CNC ported by a company with a good reputation in that engine community, or just get a decent valve job done.
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Oct 8, 2018 16:16
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This is more of an opinion question than a real "question", I guess. Car, if it matters, is a 2015 Mazda CX5 GT. I live in Denver. Winter season is coming up, and on top of that, the OEM tires that came with my car blow rear end and are probably low on their tread life (I bought 2 cheapo tread gauges that both suck, but using a penny I'd guess I'm at ~6-5/32 left). This leads me to my present dilemma. I am planning on buying new tires. I know dedicated winter tires are better, but: 1. as stated, I also need to replace the lovely OEM tires on my current rims (19") 2. Denver winters aren't nearly as snowy as I expected and get pretty warm at times 3. I'm a little strapped for cash 4. I have very limited, potentially no room in my current living situation to store an extra set of tires + wheels so I am leaning heavily towards buying a pair of M+S rated all weathers. OEM tire size is 225 55R19, so I'm probably looking at +0 fitments. I used an online tire calculator + some googlin' to come up with these. Between the following options, what would you do? A. Nokian WRG 3 (235/55R19) - $209/ea @ Disco Tire B. Toyo Celsius (240/50R19) - ~$150/ea from priority tire outlet C. Vredestrian Quatrac 5 (235/55R19) - ~ $165/ea tirerack D. Continental TrueContacts (225/55R19) ~$190/ea from tirerack E. Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus (225/55R19) ~175/ea from tirerack F. Spend the money on winter tires + wheels + more storage space you noob (If you pick this option plz pick another answer too  )What say you AI? Kommienzuspadt fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 16:48
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melon cat posted:EDIT: Just discovered that they're called "Deep Offset" wrenches. But I do wonder if there's a version ratchet-version with removable socket heads so I can attach bolt extractor heads for the threaded bolts in there? Perhaps just a flex-head ratchet?
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Oct 8, 2018 16:59
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I have the husky ones from home depot and they're pretty decent imo.
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Oct 8, 2018 17:04
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1987 Volvo 240DL Couldn't get an answer in the Volvo thread, so I'll try here. How difficult is it to install an aftermarket cruise control kit on one of these models? Can't really find good resources to view on YT regarding installation...
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Oct 8, 2018 18:04
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Now that I’m driving the jeep more I’m noticing it pulls to one side when I let off the gas, and corrects when I give it gas again. Is that motor mounts?
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Oct 8, 2018 18:58
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