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Or brakes, alignment, suspension, worn tires, etc. etc.
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Oct 8, 2018 19:07
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Karma Comedian posted:Now that I’m driving the jeep more I’m noticing it pulls to one side when I let off the gas, and corrects when I give it gas again. Is that motor mounts? Is it a lifted wrangler? Any suspension mods?
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Oct 8, 2018 19:49
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Invalido posted:If you can't learn to live with it like PP suggested, I guess you could try doing what I normally do with smelly cars: I bought a corona discharge ozone generator from aliexpress a few years back for like $20. It's worked very well on a handful of cars so far smelling of stale cigarette smoke, mold, nasty lingering air freshener and general funkyness. Maybe it would work on leather smell too. I've heard UV light generators are better, but they cost way more for the same 03 output. Perhaps they can be rented? I'll see if I stop noticing them after a while, but I know if I'm riding in the backseat of a car with leather seats I'm like 4x more likely to get queasy from the ride so I'm nervous about it. I've heard people recommend ozone, I've never even smelled ozone before though so well see if it's an improvement over the leather or not
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Oct 8, 2018 19:49
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Wowporn posted:I'll see if I stop noticing them after a while, but I know if I'm riding in the backseat of a car with leather seats I'm like 4x more likely to get queasy from the ride so I'm nervous about it. I've heard people recommend ozone, I've never even smelled ozone before though so well see if it's an improvement over the leather or not The ozone smell goes away before you go into the car is the general idea. It reacts not only with smelly things but also mucous membranes and lung tissue and the like. Just air it out and wait for a while and the car should hopefully smell like nothing at all, or at least a whole lot less than before the treatment.
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Oct 8, 2018 22:22
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Do you guys use anti seize compound on bolts? Or is that just a markup item for the store? Putting in some coilovers, so some larger bolts involved.
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Oct 8, 2018 23:33
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Always unless it is torque sensitive and you aren't supposed to.
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Oct 8, 2018 23:51
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I don't use it for anything except old school black spark plugs since it's not really needed and I live in a pretty rust-free state. May be worth it for you if you live in somewhere that salts. Also yeah it can make you overtorque bolts so if it requires a specific torque you should probably not use it for that bolt.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Oct 9, 2018 |
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Oct 9, 2018 00:23
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Karma Comedian posted:Now that I’m driving the jeep more I’m noticing it pulls to one side when I let off the gas, and corrects when I give it gas again. Is that motor mounts?
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Oct 9, 2018 00:46
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kid sinister posted:My 1997 Ford F250 HD should have an OBD2 socket, right? I thought it was required on all vehicles starting in '96. It does have the old Ford OBD1 plug under the hood. Nope. The HD trucks followed suit a couple of years later. I also found this out the hard way. Edit: soundly beaten
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Oct 9, 2018 01:56
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Geoj posted:Or brakes, alignment, suspension, worn tires, etc. etc. EightBit posted:Is it a lifted wrangler? Any suspension mods? Yes; 6 inch skyjacker, mid arm front, what I believe is hydro-assist steering, on and on Krakkles posted:Do you have a rear locker?
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Oct 9, 2018 03:20
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Javid posted:I have the husky ones from home depot and they're pretty decent imo. Kobalt is pretty good stuff too. I may be a little biased because I like Lowe's better as a company, but I've been beating on the same Kobalt tool set for at least 6 or 7 years with nary a broken socket (haven't even lost a 10mm :ohdear yet) or broken ratchet. They do seem to be a bit more expensive than Husky though. Sometimes you wind up lucking out and they accidentally mark down the wrong tool set... like the $129 set that I got for $32.25 recently.  (this was a corporate screwup too, according to the pricing coordinator at my GF's store, so for very briefly, they were marked down nationwide and online... a lot of stores didn't fix it until the middle to the end of the next business day, if they had any left).
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Oct 9, 2018 05:37
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2008 Chevy HHR LS, 2.2l. Stupid car, stupid problem. I left the key on and the radio playing on my break at work. Had to get a jump using the remote terminals in the engine compartment. For some reason, as I was attaching the negative cable the guy jumping me took it from me attach it himself. He hit a metal line and it sparked. My tire sensor stopped working, but I should be able to reset it myself. I'll give it a try when I go to the gas station later. The infuriating thing (because it is so dumb but I am still annoyed) is that the car isn't sounding the 5 slow chimes it normally does when you turn the key to the on position. I know that the chimes and the turn signal indicator sounds come through the radio on this car, but the radio is working, turn signal indicators are sounding, and the door ajar chime is fine. I know this is stupid as hell but this is the first time I've had a car where absolutely everything worked and I am sad now. Any suggestions?
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Oct 9, 2018 20:36
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85 Jeep CJ7. After a lot of pain because I hosed up and returned the power steering pump core with the correct length mounting studs, I found a pump at a junkyard that's got the right studs. I just disconnected it and brought the whole thing with me, bracket and all. I'm considering using this junkyard pump and returning the reman I'd got at O'Reillys. It's already mounted in the bracket, I could just bolt the bracket onto the engine and connect the hoses. It's marked reman and seems to be in decent shape, full of clean fluid when I pulled it. Is there any reason not to use a junkyard power steering pump rather than mess with changing over the studs? I assume the donor hadn't ended up at the yard due to a bad power steering pump.
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Oct 9, 2018 21:01
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The used pump will very likely work without issue but with any part like that that has sat for extended periods it may not last as long as one that didn't sit in a junkyard car for who knows how long. I would be especially concerned about seals.
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Oct 9, 2018 21:48
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titties posted:I know this is stupid as hell but this is the first time I've had a car where absolutely everything worked and I am sad now. Any suggestions? Check all the fuses you can get to, have the obd codes read to see if the car knows if anything is up.
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Oct 9, 2018 22:00
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Brb, going to go short the battery to the frame of everything I own to shut up those goddamn chimes
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Oct 9, 2018 22:09
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Curious. For a vehicle like that, wouldn't the chimes command come from the BCU so if the ignition is switched on, the chimes must sound? (i.e. there can't be a state where the key is turned on and the car is functioning, yet it doesn't detect the key is present)
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Oct 9, 2018 22:43
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Autoexec.bat posted:The used pump will very likely work without issue but with any part like that that has sat for extended periods it may not last as long as one that didn't sit in a junkyard car for who knows how long. I would be especially concerned about seals. Also, they may not take a return on an installed part that isn't defective.
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Oct 9, 2018 22:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Also, they may not take a return on an installed part that isn't defective. The guys said they should be able to do it, they're pretty good and I'm in there a lot. Also, a remanufactured pump that's been installed and then drained is pretty hard to tell from a regular remanufactured pump since they're so goddamn greasy out of the box. Worst case I guess I'd be out $50 for a pump which will sit on the shelf in case the junkyard one breaks.
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Oct 9, 2018 23:18
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Prank time again. You guys had me feeling guilty about loctiting vise threads so I've come up with something less...... Jerky? 2009 Hino 268. Looking at the centre of the dash, the trim bezel is like a mirror image. Left side its (top down) Radio, small cubby hole, HVAC controls. Right side its: bigger cubby hole, pull out cup holders. I don't want to do any cutting or any bullshit like that, but I'm sure I see the outlines for cut outs on the passenger side of the vinyl floor "carpet". Which makes me think these things are available in pretty much the same configuration, but with right hand drive. Anyone know if the various harnesses for radio and Hvac are long enough that I can switch everything to the other side? Basically I want to switch everything to the opposite side of the dash and see how long it takes to get noticed.
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Oct 10, 2018 00:06
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Why don't you just get a 'powered by fairy dust' vinyl sticker and see how long it stays on before he notices? Much easier and much less likely to involve breaking instrument panel mounting clips.
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Oct 10, 2018 00:13
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Dumb tax question for the US Are there any deductible expenses for car repairs if your personal car is used as a work vehicle?
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Oct 10, 2018 00:26
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The Door Frame posted:Dumb tax question for the US Yes and no. If you're using the standard deduction of 55 cents per mile, no. If you're keeping track of actual expenses and deducting them, then yes.
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Oct 10, 2018 00:29
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My car started making a knocking sound, took it to a mechanic, and they want to replace the engine because of a lower bearing. I don't have the money right now to repair it, and I'm lucky enough to be able to work from home or tale public transit, so I'm going to get rid of it. The shop doesn't want it, so I'm left with posting it on Craigslist or something. I have no idea how much it's worth, or if anyone would even pay me for it. I live in Portland, Oregon l, it's a 2001 Corolla with a clean title and under 150k miles, some scratches, and some electrical issues, but other than the engine failing it's not like, illegal to drive or unable to make it uphill or anything, but it does need new tags. Would it be worth putting on Craigslist or the
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Oct 10, 2018 02:25
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I'd throw it on CL for a grand with an honest write-up and take the first offer over 500. The only good thing about donating is that it goes away quickly, probably. The tax write-off of a donation is worthless to 99% of taxpayers. Or drive it til it dies, THEN list it for 500 and take the first offer over 100. But probably the first option.
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Oct 10, 2018 03:54
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Godholio posted:I'd throw it on CL for a grand with an honest write-up and take the first offer over 500. The only good thing about donating is that it goes away quickly, probably. The tax write-off of a donation is worthless to 99% of taxpayers.
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Oct 10, 2018 04:49
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If you want it gone, call junkyards. You'll probably get about $200-$300, but there's absolutely no hassle with it, so long as you have the title and keys available. Get the major trash out of it and any valuables. They'll want to know about major body damage, if it starts and moves (they didn't ask me if it knocked, only if it would start), and if major parts have already been removed or not. All of the yards I called were within +/- $5 of each other, so I went with the one that could haul it off the soonest. Most of the "cash for junk cars" places will give similar offers, but a lot of them may be a little less honest. Make sure to notify the state that you no longer own the car; some yards will put better condition cars in a "builder" section, where someone can buy the whole car and put it back on the road.
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Oct 10, 2018 06:05
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Cut the cats out and tie up the exhaust with mechanics wire. Probably a hundred dollar bill right there for the trouble.
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Oct 10, 2018 13:09
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anthonypants posted:I live in Portland, Oregon l, it's a 2001 Corolla with a clean title and under 150k miles, some scratches, and some electrical issues, but other than the engine failing it's not like, illegal to drive or unable to make it uphill or anything, but it does need new tags. Would it be worth putting on Craigslist or the Too bad this car isn't a little more worthwhile to save or I'd be very interested 
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Oct 10, 2018 13:48
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always be closing posted:Cut the cats out and tie up the exhaust with mechanics wire. Probably a hundred dollar bill right there for the trouble. e: nm its probably just CA and NY where its illegal to buy/sell used cats. still though how do I make money form this dumb thing 
Cage fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Oct 10, 2018 |
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Oct 10, 2018 13:55
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Cage posted:I have a basically new exhaust sitting around doing nothing with 3 out of 4 cats still good. Who buys used cats? I'm in CT, and I bring them to the scrap yard. I bring them inside where the aluminum, batteries, and copper go. They ask what year make and model, then copy your license.
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Oct 10, 2018 15:03
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spog posted:Car: 2006 Saab 9-3 conv with 2.0 petrol engine. All been running perfectly up until yesterday This seems to have cleared up and it is starting. But I went ahead and tested the fuel pressure. Is this the correct behaviour? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGNB5IMtNDs Key in: 0psi Turn key to On and pressure shoots up to about 39psi Immediately, there is a click from inside the dash (sounds like a relay or similar) and pressure drops to 0psi Turn to Start and the pressure goes up, car starts and it idles around 41psi E: found an article that suggests it is supposed to turn off the pump if no start within 1-2 secs, so maybe that is right? E2: the check valve on the fuel pump is hosed, isn't it? spog fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Oct 10, 2018 |
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Oct 10, 2018 16:13
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Chunjee posted:Too bad this car isn't a little more worthwhile to save or I'd be very interested 
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Oct 10, 2018 16:28
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spog posted:This seems to have cleared up and it is starting. But I went ahead and tested the fuel pressure. Yep, the telling fact is the drop back to 0. The system should hold pressure after priming. Nearly any other failure that would cause this would be an external leak, or would cause it to run like absolute poo poo flooding it out.
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Oct 10, 2018 18:04
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Is it safe to use a ~6 year old spray bottle of CRC Throttle Bottle Kleen? Just found it in my garage but unsure if it's still usable. It does sit through harsh winters and summers while stored away. (Also thanks for the previous advice on ratchet tools and radiator condition for me '07 Corolla.) melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 10, 2018 |
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Oct 10, 2018 18:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yep, the telling fact is the drop back to 0. The system should hold pressure after priming. Nearly any other failure that would cause this would be an external leak, or would cause it to run like absolute poo poo flooding it out. Okay, so here is where it maybe gets weird or simple. I ran the test again so I could test the fuel pressure regulator (pull vac hose off and watch the pressure rise) and when I killed the engine, the pressure remained high. Tried starting a couple of times and it seems that once you give the fuel pump a prime, now the system stays pressurised (I watched it for 2 mins and it didn't drop) Now, my car has additional LPG system plumbed in, so I took the opportunity to tighten up the gas hoses as I had occasionally smelt gas. This made me wonder if the petrol pressure was escaping through the LPG system. Except, the LPG system works by having a second set of injectors, squirting into the manifold when the petrol injectors are turned off (once the engine is at temp) I am trying to get my head round this, but isn't it correct that a leaking manifold (ie. back through the LPG system) wouldn't affect the petrol fuel pressure? So this is just coincidence?
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Oct 10, 2018 18:56
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spog posted:Okay, so here is where it maybe gets weird or simple. Just mechanically, how could the lpg system possibly do anything to your fuel pressure? Sounds like coincidence.
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Oct 10, 2018 19:00
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QuarkMartial posted:2006 Ford F150, 4.2l V6, with ABS Any thoughts?
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Oct 10, 2018 19:22
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builds character posted:Just mechanically, how could the lpg system possibly do anything to your fuel pressure? Sounds like coincidence. Thank you. That was my conclusion too, but I wasn't sure if there was something obvious I was missing. I suppose my constant starting and stopping might have loosened a sticky return valve. Also, I had just filled the tank so possibly that might have made the valve a bit harder to close Or, more likely, it's a temporary fix and it's going to let me down again on a cold and frosty night in the middle of nowhere.
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Oct 10, 2018 19:58
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QuarkMartial posted:Any thoughts? Since you're not trying to bleed a system with air in it, you theoretically should be fine flushing fluid through it without messing with the ABS controller at all. Worst case you might not get 100% of the old fluid out?
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Oct 10, 2018 20:14
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