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Telsa Cola posted:Apologies for the dumb question, would this be the thread to ask about getting into knifemaking or is there a dedicated thread for that? It's probably OK for this thread, but there is a knife thread. The loving irritating knife-making thread.
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Sep 28, 2018 04:20
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Fire Storm posted:It's probably OK for this thread, but there is a knife thread. The loving irritating knife-making thread. Oh rad, thanks for pointing me in the right way.
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Sep 28, 2018 04:33
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I'm thinking about buying one of the those Clarke metal cutting bandsaws. I'm sure this is a stupid question for some reason, but is there a reason not to cut wood with it? I have limited space...
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Sep 28, 2018 22:08
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A bandsaw is a bandsaw. Blades for cutting metal, though, are different from those for wood -- softer materials need fewer, bigger teeth. Also, you generally don't want to mix metalworking and woodworking tools if you can help it, because hot metal sets wood on fire, and sawdust + metalworking fluids turn into a paste that gums everything up. But if you buy two different blades and are careful to clean everything when switching back and forth, it'll be fine.
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Sep 28, 2018 22:15
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I’m thinking about learning to TIG weld-any advice and is there a TIG equivalent to a Lincoln buzz box? Cheap, reliable, not going to do everything and not something you can run all day but will get little odds and ends done and something to learn on. I want some more capabilities as far as different materials (aluminum and maybe stainless) and thinner materials, and just a cleaner more precise process than stick. Prior experience: Decent enough jackleg doing plate/tube steel fabrication stick stuff but nothing fine and delicate and spent a few summers welding aluminum MIG in a shipyard. No prior TIG experience. I’ve got an oxyfuel torch but have never tried welding with it, and a small Lincoln stick machine. cultureulterior posted:I'm thinking about buying one of the those Clarke metal cutting bandsaws. I'm sure this is a stupid question for some reason, but is there a reason not to cut wood with it? I have limited space...
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Sep 28, 2018 22:50
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You can get a DC TIG pretty cheap, but if you want to do aluminum you need AC, and that'll be somewhat more expensive. I personally own one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Everlast-PowerTIG-185-Inverter-based-Voltage/dp/B00AWU739O (well, an older version of that anyway) and it's been just great for my hobbyist stuff. The old shop hands made fun of me at first for buying a welder that wasn't red or blue, but it's not had a single breakdown or problem of any kind in the five years I've owned it, and it welds better than I can so no problems there. I've welded together aluminum cans on the lowest settings, and with 185 amps you can do up to a quarter inch of steel (though only at like a 30% duty cycle and you'll want to upgrade to a water-cooled torch if you're working up there). 100% duty cycle below 100 amps. Plug in a stinger and it can do stick as well if you want to rip through something structural really fast. They have a service depot in South San Francisco, so if it does break you can deal with people in America instead of trying to ship overseas. Doesn't come with a pedal, so add an extra 50 bucks for that, but overall it's an excellent do-everything welder and $1000 is a good price for the capability you're getting. It's half of an equivalent red or blue one, anyway. Highly recommended.
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Sep 28, 2018 23:54
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cultureulterior posted:I'm thinking about buying one of the those Clarke metal cutting bandsaws. I'm sure this is a stupid question for some reason, but is there a reason not to cut wood with it? I have limited space... As-is, the slower blade surface speed and finer-toothed metal sawblades means it won't cut wood particularly efficiently or quickly but it'll definitely cut, no problem. Swapping out the blades for the job is ideal and fixes everything but the slower speeds... but tbh ive worked in like 3 or 4 different jack-of-all-trade shop environments where metal/wood/plastic/textiles etc were all worked with as needed and the bandsaw often did double/triple et al duty, and they all kept the metal blade on full time because it'll safely cut most anything, and only went to the trouble of a full blade switch when a production task made it worthwhile. you dont wanna let the metal chips and sawdust heap up intermingled on the thing, but for most situations that 'contamination' wasnt a significant issue
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Sep 29, 2018 01:25
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I have decided the time has come to start getting serious about a mill.... A smaller mill is going ot be a requirement so the usual bridgeport style is ruled out, but not too simple or too small. From what I've gathered, some of the best possible mills to get a hold of are Deckel FP1/2 and Schaublin 13s though that's often on the high side money wise. There are also soviet copies of the deckel styles known as Stankoimport 676x which seem have a good reputation as well. Currently I am looking at an estate auction in Sweden for a swedish Mattsson & Zetterlund VF-600, this is a very small mill, but apparently it punches above its weight class, hough it lacks power feeds... I really like having power feeds on my lathe. Maybe if I am lucky I can get it cheap enough that I will have a mill very soon. If not it's time to start saving up, I'd really like a deckel or schaublin, those two are at the top of my preferences. Info about the VF600: http://www.lathes.co.uk/mattsson&zetterlund/ And as usual any chinese stuff won't even be considered.
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Sep 29, 2018 09:07
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Good advice Thank you, and everyone else who answered!
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Sep 29, 2018 13:31
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Verisimilidude posted:what tools would I need to work with 16 gauge steel? I'm looking to make a pair of simple steel mitten gauntlets, connected to a leather and cloth backing in the style of Japanese kote. Just buy mine!  https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3869715 Good pattern if you need it.
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Sep 30, 2018 19:00
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Are you planning on sticking a rotary table on your mill?
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Oct 1, 2018 04:21
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A rotary table would have it's uses for making curved slots and such. Something I would have liked to be able to make more than once. Also an indexing head definitely seems like one of those things that is ultra useful. I know I want to make gears and also I have a project in mind that will require me making a dog clutch, that requires a dividing head.
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Oct 1, 2018 |
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Oct 1, 2018 06:42
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Yooper posted:My last foray into Chinese servos involved Delta servos. They had pretty decent documentation. They are re-branded in the US as Automation Direct SureServos. The encoders are only 2000 PPR compared to the Fanuc's and AB's with 18 bit resolution (~200,000 ppr). Automation Direct has some decent documentation. I purchased a knock-off VFD and it was an exact clone of the knock-off automation direct so you might get lucky and actually have Delta/AD guts. A few days ago though someone put up some DMM servos on a local cnc group and I managed to get three 400W servos + drivers + all electrical gear for AUD $1000. A bit of a bargain if they all work when it's up and running, and I think they will as they're unused and the seller seemed genuine. So I don't have to fumble through the Chinese servo manual quite yet for the x/y/z axis but I will need to eventually for my 1.8kw chinese servo spindle. The 750w Chinese servos I have will probably end up on my lathe or maybe the grinder. Pic of my haul:  The seller bought the servos to convert to CNC the exact mill I'm trying to convert now so the sizing etc. should be about right.
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Oct 2, 2018 11:34
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Hello thread. I'm popping in because I've got a project on my hands which will involve repairing some broken  I've got a plan for rust removal, but you can see that the screw wheel is in need of bigger repair. Since I don't have the skills to weld cast iron, my plan was to insert a wooden segment instead. This would involve cleaning up the sites where the wheel broke to get flat cross-sections, cutting vertical notches into these new flats, and then shaping a wooden insert to connect the two. Basically it'd be a sliding dovetail connection, except I have no delusions of being able to pull of an actual dovetail shape when cutting the notches into the wheel. Excuse the lovely PowerPoint illustration -- it's the only thing I have available at the moment:  This would largely be a decorative element, as the press can be operated even with that segment missing. In other words, strength/durability of the new segment isn't really that big of a concern. Am I being too optimistic about cast iron allowing me to do anything but the crudest of cuts with a grinder and drill before it crumbles? Should I even bother with this approach or just grind the break sites to flat and epoxy in the wood segment instead? I realize these are questions which are nearly impossible to answer with precision, but even general guidance would be very helpful. Thanks!
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Oct 3, 2018 20:58
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If you can't do a proper repair I would just replace the handwheel entirely if practical. It looks like it should be easy to remove once you've derusted everything properly, I'd bet that the aggressive-pitch press screw section gives way to a boring ol standardized screw thread section where the handwheel starts. If so, you can source a brand new handwheel meeting your exact needs from (American sources here) McMaster Carr, maybe Harbor Freight or TSC, and definitely online too. AliExpress/the Chinese discount import hub of your choice will have very cheap options but only in metric sizing, which may not work for your press. If you have your heart set on repairing the wheel with the materials/skills at your disposal, I would not support the bridging component with just some slots. My first approach would be to cut the entire hand ring off at the ends of the 3 spokes, and make a new standalone wooden round ring (a disc would be stronger) with 3 slots cut into the bottom side to drop onto the spokes and let you apply torque without worry. A bridging section that anchors to the two nearest spokes and 'floats' in the handwheel gap without relying on the edges for strength might also work, but if you're going to be reefing on this thing, I'd prioritize a single handwheel design you know is strong vs. patchwork you're not confident in.
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Oct 3, 2018 21:50
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I think the broken wheel looks good. I'd just leave it.
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Oct 3, 2018 22:00
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fill in the missing section with modeling clay and sand cast a new wheel
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Oct 3, 2018 22:15
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The last two replies are good, but if you're dead-set on putting new metal on the existing part, cast iron is usually brazed rather than welded. Got an oxyacetylene torch or a TIG machine?
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Oct 3, 2018 23:52
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Chillbro Baggins posted:The last two replies are good, but if you're dead-set on putting new metal on the existing part, cast iron is usually brazed rather than welded. Got an oxyacetylene torch or a TIG machine? Oh, I want to go in the opposite direction and use anything but new metal. I do have access to a TIG welder, but have zero of the skills required to make it not look like complete rear end. Thank you all for the suggestions! I'm a solid few weeks away from disassembly and rust removal so I have some time to mull it over. And odds are that the general condition post-rust removal will define which way I'll go.
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Oct 4, 2018 06:21
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Aussie members - a quick PSA! I got this tap and die set from Sydney tools for the princely sum of $130 and so far am really happy with it, I've used it to tap M3 threads into a 3d printed aluminium part for my own 3d printer It features a bunch of taps and dies, extractors, tapping drills, thread gauges and so on. Imo if you're looking for a decent set this would be the way to go. I'm yet to test most of it out but yeh, overall pretty happy. Boxo brand, 115 piece set metric and imperial.
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Oct 7, 2018 03:30
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Going to be making a bunch of smaller workbenches on wheels for my shop, replacing some of my heavy solid benches. I got too many of them, I figure I only need two solid benches, the rest can be light and mobile for a small shop. Anyway that's not the issue, I am wondering about drawers, for cost issues telescoping slides are out, so I need to make my own. My idea is simply square tubing (20x20mm) and drawers made to fit in there. I am not sure if it's better to make them from sheet metal (I can bend boxes more or less) or if I should make them from plywood. Again not sure how wood on metal slides and how it wears, or metal on metal for that matter. Most builds opt for the lazy and expensive way out, or it's entirely a woodworking thing, but this is a metal bench. So its hard to see find examples of people who have had similar issues as me. 
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Oct 9, 2018 07:45
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Depending on the load you expect to see, equal angle instead of box might save you some space, you can then put 20*2 flat as runners under plywood drawers. If you want to fold metal drawers even better. E: metal on metal with a smear of wax lasts for ages in a home shop, we use the same at work if something is to last 5 years or less, metal on metal I mean. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Oct 9, 2018 |
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Oct 9, 2018 08:38
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With an equal angle instead of box, you mean using an L-profile instead to save vertical space? I thought of that and it might be worth doing, cheaper than box profile too. It wold take a little more space horizontally, though but not a lot.
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Oct 9, 2018 08:52
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Anyone in the market for a sexy stick welder?
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Oct 9, 2018 12:48
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"critiquing the horrible PPE practices of cheesecake-y pinup promo welding babes" is a phenomenal pastime Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Oct 9, 2018 |
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Oct 9, 2018 20:11
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There is only one good way to sunburn yourself in the winter.
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Oct 9, 2018 20:17
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His Divine Shadow posted:With an equal angle instead of box, you mean using an L-profile instead to save vertical space? I thought of that and it might be worth doing, cheaper than box profile too. It wold take a little more space horizontally, though but not a lot. Yes, but the horizontal lip goes between the drawers so you don't lose that space, I don't see how you lose horizontal space?
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Oct 9, 2018 20:18
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IRT drawer slides, a really cheap way to dramatically improve the sliding performance of a crude system like that is by picking up a roll of what's usually called "glide-" or "slide-tape", sometimes "slick strips" when sold to gamers to restore their worn-down mouse glides. it's just a roll of teflon tape with adhesive on one side instead of no adhesive like with PTFE plumber's tape. Dunno how well it'd outperform a perfunctory waxing, but it'd be a fair sight cheaper than a bunch of drawer slides.
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Oct 9, 2018 20:23
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Boeshield T9 is awesome for that kind of dry sliding contact but bring money
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Oct 9, 2018 20:44
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Just put your tools in a bag and hang them from the frame like an animal.
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Oct 9, 2018 22:43
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Can you get cheap drawer slides from China?
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Oct 9, 2018 23:51
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I've looked but the prices are not good from china either, certainly they don't offer enough to make it worth it over locallty bought ones. Either way too expensive for me, I really don't like paying anything for slides. cakesmith handyman posted:Yes, but the horizontal lip goes between the drawers so you don't lose that space, I don't see how you lose horizontal space? I think it's easier to show with a picture. There's a very small amount lost there. And the drawers height will fully span the distance between the slides so they can support it as it's being pulled out. You could turn the slide upside down though, but then you would need to make the drawer 20mm shorter so this way the least volume is lost, the slides orienting this way also gives support from both sides. 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Oct 10, 2018 |
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Oct 10, 2018 04:35
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Gotcha, I understand. You'll want those gaps anyway for the inevitable crud/lost washer that gets in there.
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Oct 10, 2018 13:08
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've looked but the prices are not good from china either, certainly they don't offer enough to make it worth it over locallty bought ones. Either way too expensive for me, I really don't like paying anything for slides. We have drawers like that and in my experience either you make the gaps very precise and don't pull the drawer out very far, or leave a ton of slop. Otherwise we see the operators pull them out too far, then they bind, and they fight getting them back in. I much prefer the ones with 6mm spacing on either side.
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Oct 10, 2018 13:56
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Can I grind carbide on a bench grinder or do I need some special wheel? I have a carbide tipped router bit I’d like to modify the profile on if it’s not too impossible, but I may just grind a shaper knife.
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Oct 10, 2018 14:50
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you need a diamond wheel to grind carbide carbide is really loving tough
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Oct 10, 2018 15:05
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If you only grind carbide seldomly, a silicon carbide wheel also works, and is quite a bit cheaper than diamond. CBN is another more expensive option. I don't think you'll be happy with the results of grinding a router bit by hand, however. Best case scenario, one flute does all the cutting, wears out quicker, and the whole thing vibrates like crazy.
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Oct 10, 2018 16:39
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Slung Blade posted:Just put your tools in a bag and hang them from the frame like an animal. Comments like this always make me laugh and remind me to try to be better with my tools just for the sake of finding them easily the next time I go to use them. I endeavor to have a very well set up garage workspace and think all the time about nice cabinets and trays and tools all visibly usable at a glance. Then reality sets in and it's wondering if you put that wrench in the 5-gallon bucket or the 3rd identical soft sided promo tool bag. I am a savage.
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Oct 10, 2018 23:17
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One Legged Ninja posted:If you only grind carbide seldomly, a silicon carbide wheel also works, and is quite a bit cheaper than diamond. CBN is another more expensive option. Would your average machine shop be capable of dealing with carbide?
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Oct 10, 2018 23:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks. Hadn’t thought about the vibration if I get them out of balance. I’ve done shaper knives before but lower RPM and a heavier machine means that’s not as important. Maybe. It depends if they have a tool grinder with a diamond wheel. Ideally you'd find someone with an Anca, Star-Su, or similar tool grinder that can take your profile, program it into a CNC and go. Unfortunately unless they're already doing router bits the programming/setup time would probably kill the price. Hand sharpening, as the One Legged Ninja said, is probably going to create chatter-vibration as it spins at 25,000 rpm.
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Oct 10, 2018 23:49
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