Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

VolatileSky posted:

It�s been a long time.

The scratch built vehicle portion of my inquisition army is done (except for 7 more standard transport rhinos, but those aren�t nearly as interesting), mostly meant for 40k and inq28.

I batch-paint, so over the last few days days I went from having nothing done, to just about everything being finished, excluding needed touch-ups I notice after photographing, of course.

I'm still debating on some aspects, the only notable ones being needing to make far too many tiny Purity Seals, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to add a checkered pattern to some armour panels (to get a bit more of the noble or knight idea across). I also have some sewing ahead of me for the banner on the battle podium. Probably just a checkered border, a giant sytlised I and/or a skull in black or red on white fabric.

I have no idea how to condense this down better/hide the images to be expandable

The Battle Podium

The attachements for the front end weapons are magnetised, I currently have the weapons, or grey panels.

The back-end without the engine assembly.

Back-end with engine and lighting installed/lit.

The mule/command vehicle. I have much more stowage to add, but I�m unsure about the �best� way to attach it still. (tarps, bags, meal kits, ammo boxes/crates, etc)

Each walker is roughly 6.5� tall without base, using them as knight stand-ins.

Valdor Tank Hunter

Oversized dreads. 3-�� tall.
Thankfully I realised that the scale is more in keeping with some of the art depicting dreads, so I kept and finished them instead of using for parts.

It looks neat, nevermind that the torque on the frame from attempting to turn would tear it apart.

Lifted from weirdingway, but they were a neat little design, and these were the first things I built as a bit of practice before doing the big stuff.

That's it aside from some Exorcists I need to re-photo after realising I had forgotton to paint the fleur de lis anything.

Outstanding work

# ? Oct 11, 2018 06:21

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# ? May 9, 2024 13:07

long-ass nips Diane: Dec 13, 2010; Breathe.

If anyone wants to buy rosemary & co brushes in the US, I can vouch for wind river arts as very easy to work with. You DO have to call them to give your credit card info but they�re super nice and quick about confirming your invoice details.

# ? Oct 11, 2018 16:22

Ilor: Feb 2, 2008; That's a crit.

goodness posted:

Tips on getting plaster to stick to bases? I picked it up as a cheap texture for 6mm bases. Made some tests but the plaster flaked off after drying.

I use Liquitex Acrylic Texture Paste and have been very happy with it. I base all my WW2 stuff on steel fender washers and have never had any issues with flaking off. It's also super easy to work with and comes in a fairly big container for a fairly small amount of money.

If you want to stick with a plaster-based approach, you might want to try hitting your base with some fine-grit sand-paper before applying the plaster, as micro-abrasions will give a rougher surface for the plaster to adhere.

# ? Oct 11, 2018 22:43

Mugaaz: Mar 1, 2008; WHY IS THERE ALWAYS SOME JUSTICE WARRIOR ON EVERY FORUM

Speaking of bases, trying to make some alien landscape bases for guys who will be mostly black and red. Which version you guys like? Any obvious ways to improve them?

# ? Oct 12, 2018 04:52

Aniodia: Feb 23, 2016; Literally who?

Fake James posted:

Metallic paint is bad on brushes? Well, that would explain why some of my sable brushes have gone to poo poo. Leadbelcher and Balthasar Gold are a good 50% of my army's colors.

Well, actual metallic paints use mica flakes to get that reflective sheen, though the exact size and density of flakes depends upon the individual paint line (though as a rule of thumb actual miniature paints will have more and finer flakes than the Apple Barrel or Folk Art stuff from Walmart). Mica has a bunch of other uses, among which is as a mild abrasive, so I could only imagine that it wouldn't be good to use on natural hair of any sort, including sable brushes.

As for your sable brushes, I would try to clean them as best as possible using clean water and brush soap. I'd also try to find a good synthetic brush or two specifically for your metallic paints, especially if they're major colors in your army. I will say I know that feeling, as a decent amount of Warmaster High Elf infantry is covered in scalemail robes of silver (or gold for the Phoenix Guard) on top of the various spears, axes, halberds, and other weapons that would be metallic as well. I just have a bunch of cheap Walmart brushes of varying sizes that are making the sacrifice to be used for the metal parts of my army, while I save my sable brushes for, well, literally everything else.

Mugaaz posted:

Speaking of bases

Those look cool as hell, and will definitely contrast with the red/black dudes, but at the same point could read as "sea floor" as well as "alien" (the base second from the right especially). If I really wanted to do "alien", I'd go back and watch some old 60's sci-fi movies or read through some old pulp scifi comics and pay attention to the backgrounds. If there was something that stood out as weird, and seemed fairly easy to replicate in small scale, I'd try to copy it for a base or two.

# ? Oct 12, 2018 06:54

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

Mugaaz posted:

Speaking of bases, trying to make some alien landscape bases for guys who will be mostly black and red. Which version you guys like? Any obvious ways to improve them?

It depends on the colours used on the models. First one is neutral enough to work with anything. Second one similarly, being a bit more blue though would work really well with a predominantly yellow tinted mini for contrast.

The 3rd one would help pick out secondary colour and accent colours of the mini by using the same colours on the plants and rocks.

The last one being a greener version of the 2nd one would work well with orangey minis.

Personally I like 3 for the variety of layouts it offers you.

# ? Oct 12, 2018 07:33

Serenade: Nov 5, 2011; "I should really learn to fucking read"

Skails posted:

My cheapo wet palette almost gets them too thin with a freshly wet paper towel. I also use dropper bottle with a mix of something like 20:1 water to flow improver with a dash of satin glaze medium thrown in or something like that (its been a while since it was made). As the towel gets drier I add my dropper mix as needed until the palette really needs refreshed.
The wet palette was a recent addition to my kit, before I was thinning the paint on a plastic palette with dropper mix and I had a decent feel for how thin it needed to be, but I was wasting paint every session.

Huh, "thin your paints" being the meme it is, I assumed it would be much harder to thin with heavy body paints. Good to know.

# ? Oct 12, 2018 13:07

MeinPanzer: Dec 20, 2004; anyone who reads Cinema Discusso for anything more than slackjawed trolling will see the shittiness in my posts

What's a good brassy paint? I'm currently painting ancient Greeks with bronze helmets and I've been laying down a basecoat with AP Weapon Bronze, using AP flesh wash, then highlighting again with Weapon Bronze, but it looks a little too coppery for my taste. Any suggestions?

# ? Oct 12, 2018 19:38

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

MeinPanzer posted:

What's a good brassy paint? I'm currently painting ancient Greeks with bronze helmets and I've been laying down a basecoat with AP Weapon Bronze, using AP flesh wash, then highlighting again with Weapon Bronze, but it looks a little too coppery for my taste. Any suggestions?

Vallejo Model Air Bronze is a nice shiny bronze colour that's not too red and not too gold.

# ? Oct 12, 2018 19:43

Hixson: Mar 27, 2009

finished my bot

# ? Oct 13, 2018 00:29

Cooked Auto: Aug 4, 2007; If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!

Not something you want to meet in a dark alley for sure. :stare:

# ? Oct 13, 2018 00:54

Max Wilco: Jan 23, 2012; I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

The Deathwing Terminators are done! (more or less)

Some things to note:

I finally bought some Seraphim Sepia and some other colors, but while apply the shade, I knocked the jar over and it spilled out on the pad. I got most of it back into the jar, but there was still a lot left on the pad, so I made use of it. Because of that, some of the shade I applied may have started to dry, which why the shade is sort of streaked on some of them.
I didn't know how to apply the drybrushing (Terminatus Stone). As a result, I got it on to heavy in some places, but not strong enough in others.
The flag is unpainted, because I didn't know how to do it, or what paints to use. If you think the body looks messed up, that's because A.) I accidentally dropped in a pan of oil while assembling it, and B.) This was where I had trouble with the Tamiya cement, so the chest got melted a bit.

Please let me know how terrible it looks.

The Moon Monster posted:

Since it sounds like you want to paint space marines specifically, I would 1) find a model that you want to add to your army/collection 2) look at sites like coolminiornot/youtube/instagram or whatever and find a version of that mini that looks really cool 3) identify one or two things that makes it really cool, did they make the armor plates really pop with smooth blends and edge highlighting? do they do great freehand insignias? weathering? metallics? 4) Pick one or two of those things and take your time to try really nailing it on your next few miniatures. If you don't know where to start for achieving some effect there's a ton of tutorials on youtube, or you could just ask in this thread.

Painting a broad array of subjects is a great way to improve your skills and become a better painter, but it sounds like you're pretty new and at that level the best way to get better at painting space marines is probably going to be painting space marines. I'm assuming you're interested in space marines since you mention them in your post, but generally the best thing to paint is something that you look at and think "I want to paint that". You'll get the best results when you're enthusiastic about what you're doing.

I actually like Chaos Space Marines more in terms of design, but sometimes the Chaos stuff looks a bit more complex than the regular Space Marines. (the Helbrute looks cool, but the Loyalist Dreadnought looks it's a bit easier to deal with.)

There is other stuff I'm interested in, though. I'm looking forward to the Sisters of Battle plastic models coming out in 2019. With the Adeptus Mechanicus, there's the Kastelan Robots with their retro looking heads. Eldar I haven't looked through too much, but there are some interesting ones that I've seen. Tau look pretty boring with their default paint scheme, but I saw a set of Taupainted like brass that looked really neat. I like orks (in fact I don't think there's anyone who doesn't like orks :orks101:

), but they've got a lot of details, and the two main colors associated with orks are red and yellow, which are both difficult colors to work with (though the Mephiston Red seems to work amazingly well). Moving outside of 40K, there WHFB/AoS stuff I want to do. I really want to try painting dwarves or Chaos knights.

I looked through the coolminiornot site a little bit, but I also picked up a copy of White Dwarf, hoping that maybe I'll get some inspiration from that as well.

# ? Oct 13, 2018 04:19

bonds0097: Oct 23, 2010; I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.; Pillbug

Comedy of errors or not, you are very clearly getting better with each new project. There is obvious progression from the first minis you showed. Keep at it!

# ? Oct 13, 2018 11:20

TTerrible: Jul 15, 2005

Max Wilco posted:

Compare the first miniature you posted here and the latest, you're clearly getting better. The only way to get better at mini painting is to keep ploughing through it and not to get discouraged.

# ? Oct 13, 2018 12:42

TheBigAristotle: Feb 8, 2007; I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.; Grimey Drawer

Hixson posted:

finished my bot

# ? Oct 13, 2018 21:35

R0ckfish: Nov 18, 2013

As a way to kill time while I decide on my next major project I pulled out the other half of dark imperium and did a simple plague marine.

I messed around a bit with this, the only bits I used shades on was the metals.

# ? Oct 13, 2018 23:02

Eifert Posting: Apr 1, 2007; Most of the time he catches it every time.; Grimey Drawer

Whirlwind is now as done as the other tanks (everything but squad and company markings and weathering:

And group shots

# ? Oct 14, 2018 16:04

Cthulu Carl: Apr 16, 2006

Eifert Posting posted:

The tiny sliver of khaki on the lower triangle of the banner is bugging the crap out of my so much that I have to assume you did it on purpose either to troll nerds like me or as a zen-like statement on the imperfections of Man's creations, so in either case I applaud your work.

# ? Oct 14, 2018 16:54

Webguy20: Dec 31, 2007

Just finished up Gregory, My Hexblade Paladin of the Common Man. I'm not super happy with this one. I didn't build a lot of options for different colors for this mini on hero forge, so I feel he's a bit dark and my brushwork was shaky. I am happy with the blue glow on the hexblade edge though.

# ? Oct 14, 2018 19:43

Eifert Posting: Apr 1, 2007; Most of the time he catches it every time.; Grimey Drawer

Cthulu Carl posted:

The tiny sliver of khaki on the lower triangle of the banner is bugging the crap out of my so much that I have to assume you did it on purpose either to troll nerds like me or as a zen-like statement on the imperfections of Man's creations, so in either case I applaud your work.

You may not believe this but this is actually the first time I've noticed that.

# ? Oct 15, 2018 00:18

Weirdo: Jul 22, 2004; I stay up late; Grimey Drawer

Enentol posted:

Any goons have a good source for Winsor and Newton brushes that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

I used Meeplemart in the past, but their customer service on my last order has me looking elsewhere.

The Sentry Box in Calgary might have some stock and they do fair shipping and have great customer service, the downside is their online catalogue is broken so you'd have to fire them an email.

# ? Oct 15, 2018 00:53

VolatileSky: May 5, 2007; i'm gay thx

Thanks bulbasaur and zuul!

goodness posted:

Tips on getting plaster to stick to bases? I picked it up as a cheap texture for 6mm bases. Made some tests but the plaster flaked off after drying.

Plaster on bases may not be the best idea, it's going to be very bound to cracking and flaking off. Score the base with a knife in a rough hatch pattern, it needs tooth to adhere to. And mix some test batches with white glue + water and plaster, or if that's too much effort just seal the plaster with watered down glue. It needs something to toughen up the surface and keep it from flaking off anyways.

Lemy Caution posted:

Has anyone used the FW Pearlescent Inks?

I tried some and did not have luck. They are too thick for any of my calligraphy or technical pens, barely wants to flow and dries too quickly by brush, and it would take a lot more trial and error to get a decent flow from it regardless of tool used. I tried using it for my illustrations though and it didn't turn out as well as I wanted. If you have luck please share the method you used? 24 is cheap for the set though and I'm sure a mix of water and flow improver might be effective.

quote:

Seriously, loving love beakies

# ? Oct 15, 2018 02:22

Bob Wins: Oct 25, 2010

Kill team finally lowered the financial bar enough for me to break into table top 40K, after a couple games with unpainted minis I finally settled on a scheme and painted my first mini. Doesn't really compare to the rest of what is on display in the thread but I figured I would post it anyway. I tried my best to thin my paints but in the end it still looks a tad thick. Also C&C always welcome.

# ? Oct 15, 2018 16:02

Failson: Sep 2, 2018; Fun Shoe

Eifert Posting posted:

Whirlwind is now as done as the other tanks (everything but squad and company markings and weathering:

Hard scheme to pull off, and it all looks great!

# ? Oct 15, 2018 19:01

Skarsnik: Oct 21, 2008; I...AM...RUUUDE!

Blood Angel Primaris Captain incoming

I started this guy way back before the Great Unclean One, got tired of him and put it aside. Was nice to finish him off finally. The blend on the black cloak doesnt look quite so chalky in real life, just couldnt find the right lighting for it.

Here is a bonus picture of my photo setup just before it got ruined :saddowns:

# ? Oct 15, 2018 19:03

Cooked Auto: Aug 4, 2007; If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!

Oh I have that lightbox. Haven't used it in a while since I bought a much smaller one that fits most of my photo projects (and I don't have to tear down my painting space to use it).
Need to remember the third lamp setup for the future though.

# ? Oct 15, 2018 20:05

Pierzak: Oct 30, 2010

Skarsnik posted:

Here is a bonus picture of my photo setup just before it got ruined

What the gently caress did you expect when you put a box in a cat-accessible space?

# ? Oct 15, 2018 22:51

Schadenboner: Aug 15, 2011; by Shine

Skarsnik posted:

I mean, when life gives you lemons take catte pictures?

# ? Oct 15, 2018 22:56

Red Hood: Feb 22, 2007; It's too late. You had your chance. And I'm just getting started.

Was it in this thread that I saw a rad conversion of Space Marine Scouts using Necromunda Goliaths as a base? My brother and I were talking about them, but now I can't find the pictures for the life of me. I tried this thread, the uninspiration thread, the main 40k thread and even the Season 9 oath thread to no avail.

If any of you dudes can help me I'd appreciate it.

# ? Oct 16, 2018 00:30

Duct Tape: Sep 30, 2004; Huh?

Just finished my first Tyranids.

I now want to buy every Tyranid. These guys are so fast and fun to paint.
edit: Adding an overhead shot

Duct Tape fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Oct 16, 2018

# ? Oct 16, 2018 06:45

Skarsnik: Oct 21, 2008; I...AM...RUUUDE!

Upstaged by a cat, ah well. Can confirm he is a very good boy

# ? Oct 16, 2018 13:55

TheBigAristotle: Feb 8, 2007; I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.; Grimey Drawer

VolatileSky posted:

Seriously, loving love beakies

Me too. What's the fluff explanation for the beaked helmets?

Duct Tape posted:

Just finished my first Tyranids.

I now want to buy every Tyranid. These guys are so fast and fun to paint.

They look great. I feel like I don't see really grimy looking Tyranids much. My local scene has some kraken and Leviathan schemes but they look too clean

# ? Oct 16, 2018 15:13

hexa: Dec 10, 2004; And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom

TheBigAristotle posted:

Me too. What's the fluff explanation for the beaked helmets?

Fluff reasons? "The wedge-shaped helmet (designed to deflect incoming fire from the front) formed the basis for the later distinctive Corvus Beak helmet of the Mark VI pattern."

But that's purely justification for the modellers taking inspiration from medieval hounskull helmets.

# ? Oct 16, 2018 15:54

Cooked Auto: Aug 4, 2007; If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!

I have a crazy idea that I'm not even sure is going to work. But then again I've wasted money on dumber stuff like the Warhammer Conquest card game that I never ended up playing anyway. v :v:

# ? Oct 16, 2018 18:45

Mugaaz: Mar 1, 2008; WHY IS THERE ALWAYS SOME JUSTICE WARRIOR ON EVERY FORUM

Cooked Auto posted:

I have a crazy idea that I'm not even sure is going to work. But then again I've wasted money on dumber stuff like the Warhammer Conquest card game that I never ended up playing anyway. vv

Don't worry, you missed nothing with the card game.

# ? Oct 16, 2018 18:49

Legendary Ptarmigan: Sep 21, 2007; Need a light?

TheBigAristotle posted:

Me too. What's the fluff explanation for the beaked helmets?

There's also supposed to be extra sensory equipment in there. Better night-vision and such, making them popular with stealthy chapters like the Raven Guard and their successors. Looking like a bird beak is purely coincidental.

# ? Oct 16, 2018 20:00

Zuul the Cat: Dec 24, 2006; Grimey Drawer

Legendary Ptarmigan posted:

There's also supposed to be extra sensory equipment in there. Better night-vision and such, making them popular with stealthy chapters like the Raven Guard and their successors. Looking like a bird beak is purely coincidental.

I thought it was developed for boarding action? The coned faces were supposed to help rounds bounce off their faces in close quarters?

# ? Oct 16, 2018 21:56

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

This is a bit of a weird question but bear with me: are 2-part epoxy putties (in this case, I'm using ProCreate) soften from skin oils? I was sculpting something and ended up holding part that had cured putty on it and all that putty ended up getting soft and rubbery and ultimately flaked off. These were fairly thin details layered on top of a pewter model as a base. I've heard some oils can get under putty and make it lose its adhesion to whatever it's on, but a) I'm not sure that's actually true, and b) that doesn't explain it getting rubbery.

The other possible explanation for my trouble is that when I put Mr. Dissolved Putty (a single-part putty with a lacquer-based thinner) on top to smooth stuff out, it reacted with the ProCreate and hosed it up. I'm leaning towards this explanation, and I'm testing it out on some cured and not-so-cured ProCreate to see for sure, but I wanted to see what other people thought about this...

Now I'll have to resculpt all of that stuff too (it took almost a week). :sigh:

e: While I'm on the subject, is there a better putty than Pro Create for sculpting small, hard-edged details that need to stick well to a pewter base? I also have green stuff, brown stuff, and Apoxie Sculpt.

Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Oct 17, 2018

# ? Oct 17, 2018 06:04

Dr Hemulen: Jan 25, 2003

Finally getting some hobby time in. Had the chance to take CK Studios Airbrush 101 this past weekend, and it was amazing. Worth taking for just the hands on cleaning and troubleshooting

We painted a Contemptor, using a technique where you put on an exaggerated undercoat and tone it down with inks and glazes. Worked amazingly well, it's one of the best models I've ever produced.

(I asked for help to replicate this colour scheme: https://imgur.com/D5jEM0s )

Learned a lot about how the brushes work, what the limitations are and how to work around them. We even learned how to shade your blacks.

I highly recommend taking the course.

In other news I've been experimenting with laser cutting styrene for conversions and scratchbuilding. This is for a halloween costume, but the principle is the same:

It's cut to a point where the pieces are still held by the frame, but you can just pop them out. This is 2mm, so maybe a bit thick for what you'd use for models. The idea is to model the basic shapes for vehicles and such in 3D, cut the panels in styrene and glue the whole thing together.

Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Oct 17, 2018

# ? Oct 17, 2018 07:23

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# ? May 9, 2024 13:07

Ilor: Feb 2, 2008; That's a crit.

What laser are you using to cut styrene? Most CO2 lasers warn you not to cut that stuff because it off-gases chlorine which is damaging to both the laser's optics and, you know, your lungs.

# ? Oct 17, 2018 20:06

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