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Don't buy a 10 year old car from a dealer. Buy it from the owner, ideally a long term owner with many receipts. Do not, under any circumstances, buy a 2007 sebring. Jesus. Also, buy a prius. Finally, I love my mazda, but I love in California. Why is this important? Mazdas rust.
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Oct 15, 2018 19:22
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm in the market for a ~10 year old used sedan for my now longer commute. For the past 18 months I've been driving a 20 year old truck, and it wasn't so bad when my daily commute was 8 miles, but now it's anywhere from 20 to 60. The Sebring coupe was terrible, avoid it. The Sebring convertible was a completely different car that shared only a name with the coupe and was pretty good. Get the Mazda.
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Oct 15, 2018 19:26
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Deteriorata posted:The Sebring coupe was terrible, avoid it. The Sebring convertible was a completely different car that shared only a name with the coupe and was pretty good. Ahhh, that's probably why in my head I was thinking 'Sebring is good, right?' nm posted:Finally, I love my mazda, but I love in California. Why is this important? Mazdas rust. Everything here rusts, some just rust a little more than others.
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Oct 15, 2018 19:52
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OldSenileGuy posted:
Costco negotiates the price but that's about it. A lot of times dealer can actually go lower than that price though it depends on the car. I would personally take which ever is cheaper assuming they are the exact same car. You might even want to email a third dealer that has the same car instock to get a best out the door price, but I probably wouldn't physically visit another dealership at this point.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:14
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OldSenileGuy posted:Is it reasonable for me to hold firm and demand that they meet the price of $23,000, even though Dealer A has the Costco Program behind them? Is Dealer A able to offer that lower price because Costco is giving them some form of compensation? I'm willing to pay a little bit of a higher price to support a good dealership, but $500 seems like too much to me. Using Costco is only worth it if you get a kickback from Costco. You can almost always negotiate better than the Costco price, unless you get special rebates or Costco gift cards.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:21
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OldSenileGuy posted:Is it reasonable for me to hold firm and demand that they meet the price of $23,000, even though Dealer A has the Costco Program behind them? Is Dealer A able to offer that lower price because Costco is giving them some form of compensation? I'm willing to pay a little bit of a higher price to support a good dealership, but $500 seems like too much to me. If the other dealer can offer you 23500 Out The Door (including tax, title, paperwork fees), then go with them. You can also appeal to them (saying with tax and everything that $500 ends up being significant to you) and see if they bite. There's absolutely no reason to do Costco if you can get a lower price somewhere else, assuming you're not eligible for a $500 Costco gift card or whatever the special of the moment is. The dealer doesn't get a Costco kickback fee or compensation, they just use the partnership as another avenue to rope in clients.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:37
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Sorry, I should have clarified, the 23500 is also 23500 plus TTL. So either way I'm looking at an approx $500 difference. But now that I know that the Costco price is just a negotiated price and not the result of some backroom kickbacks by Costco, I feel better standing firm on the $23000 price at the dealer I like. I'm in NY, so the tax rate is going to be roughly 8% and the doc fees are going to be capped at $75 at both places. They haven't asked, but I assume if they do ask I should NOT reveal the name of the dealership that's offering me the low price?
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Oct 15, 2018 21:09
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There’s no harm in saying who has the better offer. If anything, you withholding the name of the other dealer looks like you don’t actually have another offer and are just trying to get them to negotiate against themselves.
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Oct 15, 2018 21:18
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OldSenileGuy posted:Sorry, I should have clarified, the 23500 is also 23500 plus TTL. So either way I'm looking at an approx $500 difference. But now that I know that the Costco price is just a negotiated price and not the result of some backroom kickbacks by Costco, I feel better standing firm on the $23000 price at the dealer I like. I'm in NY, so the tax rate is going to be roughly 8% and the doc fees are going to be capped at $75 at both places. What car did you decide on? If it's the Hyundai and you're financing through a credit union you can get an extra $500 rebate check. https://bonusdrive.com/ I found it through old LeaseHackr posts and sure enough after about 10 weeks I got a check in the mail.
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Oct 15, 2018 21:34
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:There’s no harm in saying who has the better offer. If anything, you withholding the name of the other dealer looks like you don’t actually have another offer and are just trying to get them to negotiate against themselves. Ah, ok. I didn't know if these dealerships talk to each other and collude with each other. I was worried I would tell them who the cheaper dealership was, and suddenly the cheaper dealer wouldn't be able to go below $23500 because the $23000 price was a "limited time offer" or some bullshit. EDIT2: Also - if I call or email some other dealers that have the car I want in their inventory, is it better to just ask them for their best price, or tell them the price I'm trying to beat? quote:What car did you decide on? If it's the Hyundai and you're financing through a credit union you can get an extra $500 rebate check. https://bonusdrive.com/ Decided on the Honda Insight EX. Its the one I liked the most, and also happens to be the cheapest. I only wish it was a crossover instead of a sedan, but I'll live with it. The Kia is my backup if for some reason all the Honda stuff falls through. EDIT: What credit union did you use? I spent a good amount of time yesterday looking for the credit union that had the best rate. it's an arduous process. OldSenileGuy fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Oct 15, 2018 |
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Oct 15, 2018 21:52
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OldSenileGuy posted:EDIT2: Also - if I call or email some other dealers that have the car I want in their inventory, is it better to just ask them for their best price, or tell them the price I'm trying to beat? There's a good chance they'll give you a "Why don't you come out and test it and then we can talk turkey" speech, or just plain say "nope, can't do that price". You might also get the "yep, come down and let's sign" to find out they 'accidentally' sold the one car they had at that price but this one's only $800 more...
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Oct 15, 2018 22:03
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm in the market for a ~10 year old used sedan for my now longer commute. For the past 18 months I've been driving a 20 year old truck, and it wasn't so bad when my daily commute was 8 miles, but now it's anywhere from 20 to 60. Mazda3 should be ok if it wasn't ridden too hard. Check for rust. Civic is the other good choice. Avoid the sebring at all costs. And the Focus would only be a deal at 1000.
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Oct 15, 2018 23:12
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DrBouvenstein posted:Ahhh, that's probably why in my head I was thinking 'Sebring is good, right?' Mazdas rust quite a bit worse than say, a Toyota. Toyota and the non-italian Europeans seem to have the best rust proofing. Mazda is sub-Honda.
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Oct 16, 2018 00:14
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The Sebring Convertible was a Mexican built version of the Sebring sedan. The Sebring Coupe was a DSM and loosely based on the Mitsubishi Galant. They both had the same Chrysler I4 engine and 4 speed trans, the Coupe could be had with the Mitsubishi 2.5l V6 and the Convertible the 2.7l Chrysler V6.
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Oct 16, 2018 00:19
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Don’t ever buy anything with a 2.7 Chrysler V-6in it, this should probably be in the thread title. Anything with a water pump inside an oil-filled timing chain cover(this includes current FWD/AWD 3.5/3.7 Ford V6’s) is an extremely expensive disaster waiting to happen; no matter how careful you are about maintenance and how you’re super vigilant about watching your gauges, a water pump failure can/will fill the crankcase with coolant and gently caress up your bottom end before you realize your car is overheating. You won’t even notice leaks or steam because its leaking internally.
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Oct 16, 2018 03:17
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JnnyThndrs posted:
Jesus wept, I thought the LT1 water pump/optispark situation was the height of bad design
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Oct 16, 2018 05:14
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nm posted:Mazdas rust quite a bit worse than say, a Toyota. Toyota and the non-italian Europeans seem to have the best rust proofing. Mazda is sub-Honda. Is this still the case with newer models? I see a lot of rusty ~10 yr old Mazdas but was wondering if they improved their rustproofing recently.
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Oct 16, 2018 16:03
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I believe Mazda significantly improved it for MY2010. My 2011 has been a snow state car since new and there's no signs of rust yet. Helps that it's been garaged and washed regularly.
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Oct 16, 2018 16:22
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Isosceles posted:Is this still the case with newer models? I see a lot of rusty ~10 yr old Mazdas but was wondering if they improved their rustproofing recently. He's looking a 10 year old mazdas. I honestly don't know, but I have not heard of a massive improvement. Maybe in the new generation 3.
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Oct 16, 2018 16:22
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OldSenileGuy posted:
Northwest FCU. I went with them through the dealer and they ended up giving me a slightly better rate than I could get locally. When we bought our Pacifica I also went through the dealer and got a rate that couldn't be beat. What I'm saying is definitely lineup outside financing but you'll probably get better indirect rates through the F&I guy. Also a word of warning- local CUs have terrible online bill paying so be prepared if you go that route.
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Oct 16, 2018 16:44
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Anyone have or know anyone with a Toyota Avalon and does it suck or is it okay? I tried one and it was pretty comfortable but I am car-stupid. Otherwise, is there another similar car you might recommend?
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Oct 16, 2018 16:49
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Reliability wise they're good. Look at Lexus ESes too, they're very similar and used probably price out about the same.
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Oct 16, 2018 17:01
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Pick posted:Anyone have or know anyone with a Toyota Avalon and does it suck or is it okay? I tried one and it was pretty comfortable but I am car-stupid. Otherwise, is there another similar car you might recommend? My Mom has a 2003 with about 150,000 miles on it. It is still in very good shape and seems quite reliable. It's a boring sedan, but that's fine if it's what you're looking for.
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Oct 16, 2018 17:13
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Casu Marzu posted:I believe Mazda significantly improved it for MY2010. My 2011 has been a snow state car since new and there's no signs of rust yet. My 09 lives outside in a snow state and I never wash it. No rust. Anecdotes are useless though.
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Oct 16, 2018 17:36
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Deteriorata posted:My Mom has a 2003 with about 150,000 miles on it. It is still in very good shape and seems quite reliable. It's a boring sedan, but that's fine if it's what you're looking for. I like a boring but very comfortable sedan with enough fixins to feel not completely generic. Was spying a 2017.
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Oct 16, 2018 19:30
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Pick posted:Anyone have or know anyone with a Toyota Avalon and does it suck or is it okay? I tried one and it was pretty comfortable but I am car-stupid. Otherwise, is there another similar car you might recommend? They can be stupid expensive my stupid boss spent more on one than a comparable Lexus bc I think it had a bunch of expensive packages of stuff that's base on the Lexus?
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Oct 17, 2018 04:01
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if you like the Avalon you can get an Impala for like a fifth of the price roughly
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Oct 17, 2018 13:32
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Well I'm looking for a sedan in the $25k range that is sorta cool but mostly just really functional.
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Oct 18, 2018 05:13
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Check out the '18 Accord, it's a thread favorite. Wins in almost every category. The Camry is also a Good But Relatively Boring car.
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Oct 18, 2018 05:59
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Ehhh but aren't they kind of weenie base cars? Like I want a sedan that's sort of trying to be more than just, hey [don't] look at me, I'm a sedan.
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Oct 18, 2018 06:38
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Pick posted:Ehhh but aren't they kind of weenie base cars? Like I want a sedan that's sort of trying to be more than just, hey [don't] look at me, I'm a sedan. Buy a mazda 6 then. It or the accord are the best sedans. The 6 looks the best. Get it in red.
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Oct 18, 2018 07:51
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Civic SI comes in sedan and is within your price range. Only comes in stick though.
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Oct 18, 2018 13:00
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Pick posted:Well I'm looking for a sedan in the $25k range that is sorta cool but mostly just really functional. Mazda6
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Oct 18, 2018 14:29
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Pick posted:Ehhh but aren't they kind of weenie base cars? Like I want a sedan that's sort of trying to be more than just, hey [don't] look at me, I'm a sedan. If by weenie you're referring to power, the '18 Accord Sport 2.0t has 252HP, it's very competent. If you want something cooler you'll have to look at Mazda or increase your budget, I really like the Audi A4, you may also want to look at a BMW 328i or Mercedes C class but all of those will run up the MSRP real quick.
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Oct 18, 2018 15:31
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Pick posted:Well I'm looking for a sedan in the $25k range that is sorta cool but mostly just really functional. dodge charger seems like your style
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Oct 18, 2018 16:04
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If a dealer doesn't have the car I want in the exact trim and color in their inventory, but he is telling me he "can get it" or "can find it", does that really mean "I might be able to find it and get it here and there's going to be a ton of extra delivery fees/finder's fees that I won't tell you about until the last minute?" EDIT: Also, do new incentives generally start on the first of the month? I'm going to be out of town end of next week and next weekend, so assuming I don't buy a car this weekend, does it basically make sense to just wait until Nov 1 to see if some new cash back deal or financing deal drops? OldSenileGuy fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 16:26
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:dodge charger seems like your style this is charger.txt
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Oct 18, 2018 16:42
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OldSenileGuy posted:If a dealer doesn't have the car I want in the exact trim and color in their inventory, but he is telling me he "can get it" or "can find it", does that really mean "I might be able to find it and get it here and there's going to be a ton of extra delivery fees/finder's fees that I won't tell you about until the last minute?" it means that it's at another dealer, the dealer will do a trade to get the car on the lot you can ask if there is any cost associated with them getting the car, usually they will do it gratis to make the sale but it's good to check incentives are typically quarterly although there are both monthly and spot programs
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Oct 18, 2018 16:58
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You can also find the car yourself (most dealers have their inventory online). If you find one at a higher volume dealer you can probably get it cheaper that way too.
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Oct 18, 2018 18:48
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Are there end of the calendar year deals usually? Sorry, I haven't bought a new car since 2002, but a red light runner crushed my 16 year old explorer. 
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Oct 18, 2018 20:16
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