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clutchpuck posted:If it makes you feel better I broke the nipple off the bleeder on a fresh reman caliper for my RX7. It took effort to even find the caliper in the first place. Yeah thanks, I can imagine finding those are not fun. Store down the street has both in stock. Funny thing is the price is $62.99 but core is $50. I'm dreading what the rears might bring when I get to the point of the "praise geesus" moment when I bleed the brakes. Chunjee posted:
Perhaps the wrong term, but rusted on. The F150 platform is notorious for it. .
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Oct 19, 2018 22:05
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C-Bangin' it 
lol wtf
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Did you apply BFH from the prone position to the back of the rotor? Rotate repeat. Wear ear protection or have tinnitus forever.
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Oct 19, 2018 23:11
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Double post! My buddy gave me his 98 Avalon xls. It was his beater car for a few years in MI but was mostly a Tennessee car. The brakes drag like gently caress and it has an exhaust leak. 215k miles and seems to run really well otherwise. New calipers/rotors/pads -   It has been titled the Grandpalon, and it runs better the more stickers it has on it so I need some fuckin’ stickers I guess.
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Oct 19, 2018 23:14
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Free car best car
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Oct 19, 2018 23:15
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I see the hover conversion is coming along nicely.
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Oct 19, 2018 23:23
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BlackMK4 posted:Free car best car He’s a real sweetheart. I think he could have sold it for a couple grand if he had fixed the brakes, but he just wanted it gone. I’m stoked to have a 3.0 toyota with low rust. Pretty much the most hassle free winter beater of all time, assuming no major issues crop up out of nowhere.
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Oct 20, 2018 00:42
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One of my friend's brothers drove an Avalon nearly identical to that one in high school/college, so it was treated fairly badly. I think when he finally retired it it had almost 400k miles.
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Oct 20, 2018 00:52
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PaintVagrant posted:Double post! Free winter beater? Figure out how to throw an inch of lift and some A/Ts on it.
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Oct 20, 2018 01:56
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Decided to sort out a very slight knocking noise from the suspension in my ute. Common issue on BA-BF Falcon utes, sway bar D bushes or end links. $50 in parts to do both and an easy job. I did the D bushes on Monday, didn't even have to jack it up. Ordered the end links off ebay which arrived Friday, so after work I get to it! Left side, was easy enough apart from the new set of end links being imperial instead of metric (also: gently caress nylock nuts). Half of the right side done easily but the other nut was already half rounded off I'm guessing from the place that did my lower control arms a year ago. I tried to get the nut to move but made it even worse. Tried a bunch of way to get it out but it was stuffed. I had to buy a grinder and one of the little rotary tool sets to solve the problem. The space was too small to even attempt to cut the nut off so I had to go at it from the ball joint of the link. Grinder got most of the end link off but I couldn't get the last of it, so the other tool with a cutting disc got it. In doing that I destroyed the flat surface for the end link to bolt on to and made the control arm look like complete poo poo. As I expected when I bolted the new link in it had the same noise as before but instead of a light knock it was like a hammer if I even slightly moved the steering wheel or went over a bump. So now instead of the $30 sway bar end links I'm now up for a new lower control arm plus labour (because I never want to touch suspension or steering again) and no car to drive because the XC is still at the panel beater. An added benefit is I feel like a complete idiot for loving up probably one of the simplest jobs I could do on the car.
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Oct 20, 2018 16:24
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Verman posted:Moved out of the Midwest 3 years ago. My 88 Toyota 4x4 grew a a couple of rust bubbles on the passenger side of the bed where the 2 seams meet a few years ago. I attempted repair myself (probably a poo poo job) and have 2 primer spots there. Now 1 bubble looks to be coming back. Ugh so embarrassing. Also 1 of the stock rear leafs is sticking so I need to redo the stock bushings. I did have to replace the stock muffler 5 years ago. Can't believe it only went 25 years. I'm near Seattle btw.
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Oct 20, 2018 17:55
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Welp, after trying every trick in the book for removing the rotor I threw in the towel and picked up metal blades for the sawzall. And now it looks like rain again. I cannot win. Funny thing is years ago when I had to do this I thought "hey put on anti-seize crap and it should be easier next go around". I can still see the anti-seize popping out from the studs. That center ring is a real loving bitch.
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Oct 20, 2018 19:12
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BlackMK4 posted:Free car best car <cough cough> PT Cruiser<COUGH>
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Oct 20, 2018 19:25
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Colostomy Bag posted:Welp, after trying every trick in the book for removing the rotor I threw in the towel and picked up metal blades for the sawzall. And now it looks like rain again. I cannot win. I've had really good luck with spraying a dickload of PB Blaster around all the lug studs and around the hub on super stuck rotors. Hose it down, wait an hour, smack it with a 3lb hammer and off she comes, generally.
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Oct 20, 2018 19:31
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Colostomy Bag posted:Welp, after trying every trick in the book for removing the rotor I threw in the towel and picked up metal blades for the sawzall. And now it looks like rain again. I cannot win. I’ve had good luck with heating the rotor up with a propane torch.
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Oct 20, 2018 19:38
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Rhyno posted:<cough cough> PT Cruiser<COUGH> WELP.  Getting around to installing my Elan Motorsports / Nine Lives Racing wing. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Oct 20, 2018 |
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Oct 20, 2018 19:41
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Terrible Robot posted:I've had really good luck with spraying a dickload of PB Blaster around all the lug studs and around the hub on super stuck rotors. Hose it down, wait an hour, smack it with a 3lb hammer and off she comes, generally. Terrible Robot posted:I've had really good luck with spraying a dickload of PB Blaster around all the lug studs and around the hub on super stuck rotors. Hose it down, wait an hour, smack it with a 3lb hammer and off she comes, generally. I appreciate the tips. Trust me I've done/tried them all. If I had a lift, a 20lb sledge, the strength of John Henry combined with the accuracy of Lee Harvey Oswald it might be doable. And just to add, my shoulder isn't exactly superman condition after fracturing it earlier this year so that adds to this debacle. Of course as I ponder my next move I remember that around 90% of Ford trucks are still on the road. The other 10% made it to the drive way. After a plumbing fiasco earlier this week...just sometimes life's celestial rear end in a top hat moves above you and decides to poo poo on you for a while. No biggie, guess it is my turn for a while. 
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Oct 20, 2018 20:02
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Does it have an internal parking brake that is pressed against the rotor hat? If so, see if there's some way to retract the pads in case there's a lip that's making it tougher. I've never not been able to get one of without just beating the living gently caress out of it with a hammer.
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Oct 20, 2018 21:37
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OEM subwoofer upgrade. Up until 2018, if you didn't get the subwoofer from the factory, it was prohibitively annoying to install one, since none of the wiring was present from the DSP to the trunk. Somebody discovered on the 2018 and newer Mustangs, if you have active exhaust, the wiring for the sub is present. All you need is a small harness from the amp built into the back of the sub to the connector in the trunk. First, you need to replace the DSP. It lives up under the dash to the left of the pedals. This took the longest to do of everything. Access sucks, doubly so when you have a clutch pedal in the way (all the guides say its not too bad and fail to mention they have an auto). I ended up removing the OBD connector and was barely able to wiggle it in and out. Lots of cursing and cut hands on the razor sharp DSP bracket.   Once that's done, its just a matter of pulling out the carpet in the trunk, cutting a few holes (since the carpet with sub equipped cars is a little different), and bolting it in. Trimming the carpet was the second longest part of the process. Even with a brand new blade there's lots of padding behind it thats a pain in the rear end to trim. The bolt holes are already there, just need five M8 bolts. The four on the bottom are easy, but there's a hole for the top one that's not threaded. It uses a U-nut from the factory. I couldn't find any locally, so I duct taped a regular nut in place and was barely able to get it threaded on.   Sounds really nice. Its not mind-blowing, but without the sub the car was definitely lacking bass. Its much stronger now. Not bad for $40 for the DSP and $140 for the sub from a scrapyard on ebay. I may look into replacing the center dash speaker since apparently thats the best bang for your buck sound upgrade next.
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Oct 20, 2018 21:58
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Colostomy Bag posted:Welp, after trying every trick in the book for removing the rotor I threw in the towel and picked up metal blades for the sawzall. And now it looks like rain again. I cannot win. You try this method? It has never failed me when all else has. Added benefit of not beating the poo poo out of your hubs/bearings with a giant hammer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw
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Oct 20, 2018 22:07
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Suburban Dad posted:Does it have an internal parking brake that is pressed against the rotor hat? If so, see if there's some way to retract the pads in case there's a lip that's making it tougher. I've never not been able to get one of without just beating the living gently caress out of it with a hammer. No these are front. Rears haha, I'm paying to have that done. Done it once, and once was enough because the drum mechanism wouldn't retract and I ending up yanking the parking mechanism/shoes off. (More on the incredible disaster later...and well what life is like in the rust belt...)  But hey, got the rotor off. :toots: Sawzed-all one side of the rotor (I'm thinking I'll try the lazy approach this time instead of opposite side cuts to save a few minutes) then drove a chisel/punch in the cut line and beat the living the gently caress out of the chisel with the largest ball peen hammer I have (god that felt good). Rotor cracked all the way to the hub on one side. At this point I'm like ok...let me get the chisel out. I hammered on it sideways and it wouldn't budge. So then I beat the poo poo out of the rotor for awhile and my god it was glorious, it came lose. While I as loving around earlier trying to get it off I figured "hell let's try the brake line, because that snapped in half and will probably be another clusterfuck. But that came free fairly easily with a flare nut wrench (note...I had to redo all the hard lines...bending, flare them, etc because they let loose years ago) so that is why there wasn't much drama there. Anyways, at least on the right side of the truck, I can start to put humpty dumpty back together again. Wife told me, hope the other side is easier. Thanks for the jinx.
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Oct 20, 2018 22:18
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opengl128 posted:You try this method? It has never failed me when all else has. Added benefit of not beating the poo poo out of your hubs/bearings with a giant hammer. Yep. I had high hope for it but didn't work. I had so much tension on the bolt method I needed a cheater bar to loosen them. With my luck I will somehow have bent the ears on the spindle. Should add used the bolt method on my daughter's wj. Needed extra metal because the ears are beyond the rotor but it is a good method.
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Oct 20, 2018 22:21
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Racing beat oil cooler lines and the starter went in yesterday. Getting close to cranking it over
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Oct 21, 2018 15:57
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Did a interior and exterior decon wash on my new car and protected it? Check. Looks nice. Checked and confirmed that I have the proper head unit for aftermarket bluetooth steaming. Check. Removed the horrible tint on the back passenger windows + rear windows? Check. Finally not like driving on a dark purple night. Top tip: Steam! No glue residue. Failed hard at replacing the dogbone gearbox mount and now it clunks more? Check............. Here's a bad rear picture of it (on winter rims) though: 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Oct 21, 2018 |
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Oct 21, 2018 19:59
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Took it to the track for the first time. Same tyres as my old car, 80hp less than my old car and 300kg heavier than my old car. Only .5 seconds off my previous best time. Cooked the brakes and the S-AYC system also checked out for the drive home but otherwise no issues. First upgrade will be the pads and fluid and then an exhaust to add some noise since it was too quiet in cabin. 
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Oct 21, 2018 22:07
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Swapped the stock wheels and the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2s to a set of used Fusion wheels and new General Gmax AS05s all seasons on the FoST. Low temps are getting into the upper 30s/low 40s and I'd rather not have hockey pucks in the morning.
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Oct 22, 2018 03:10
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Dagen H posted:
A trip to the u-pull and $10 later:  Pre-sliced for my convenience! New u-joint is in the mail.
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Oct 22, 2018 16:35
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RX7 engine got wired up last night. Dash wires and spark plug wires. Had to find the purpose of the mystery wire before I was comfortable tying up the dash wire bundle. Ended up being for the sub zero motor, which I don't have anymore. It pretty much never goes below zero in the Washington lowlands anyway. I don't have a ton of stuff left to do. Next weekend I focus on the fuel system. Gotta drain the tank for sure. I'm hoping the pump will pump. If not I guess I'm ordering a Mallory. I wonder how feasible it is to keep ethanol out of this car...
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Oct 22, 2018 16:47
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This will bore most of you, I'd advise to skip. This is cathartic for me to rant. My brake saga on the Expedition continues. Got one side done. Undid the new calipers to install new pads along with the hardware included (which is a slight puzzle) and everything bolted up somewhat nice except for the new brake line to the caliper. In retrospect it was simple but the banjo bolt wouldn't thread in. So I'm like wtf, did they tap this thing SAE or something as I'm staring at the threads (caliper came with new banjo bolts). So I tried it on the other caliper, threads in with finger tight. In short, said gently caress it, start it with a half-twist and bring out the socket...it worked. Might have been the coating. Who knows. But you reach a point where you say gently caress it all. So onto the other side...boy, I thought the right side was tough. Anyways, finally torn apart and this side ready to go back together again. Had to make 4 cuts in the rotor, do the wedge trick and then bang on it with a hammer (after the rotor cracked) for a good few minutes before it let loose. So next up is dealing is the replacement brake hose. On the "input side" on the body fitting there are two orifices (haha). Turns out it is the right hose, but they don't include the block off fitting for the other port. It is a tiny flared fitting that I was able to salvage after hitting it with some heat. Funny thing is the rubber hose just pulled away but I got the plug. Ugh, anyways off to get my core returns for the calipers and after I get the rest of it back together I then have the enjoyment of then bleeding the brakes.
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Oct 22, 2018 19:54
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Replaced the window regulator on my 2001 GMC 1500, yet again. This truck has now had a total of 5 regulators in it now. Terrible freaking design, but at least they are easy to change. I got a can on white lithium and greased the hell out of the rails and cables and then the next day took the (other) door panel off and got to what I could.
Mr-Spain fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Oct 22, 2018 |
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Oct 22, 2018 19:59
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On Friday I ordered Saab parts from no less than 3 separate places. Today I spent a couple of hours making the car extra shiny and pretty, cleaning a load of dirt off the inside of the windows and fixed some fiddly bits of trim and then took it out for a 20 mile blast, stopping at the supermarket on the return leg. Every mile that I manage to drive it makes it run better and it start easier  . I even managed to surprise a guy in a new Merc with just how quick a 38 year old turbo'd car can be when you start from 50mph   However, as I came off the dual carriageway my clutch pedal felt a bit weird and sure enough I then got stuck in 2nd gear. Managed to make it in 2nd around 2 miles back to the end of my drive, from where I could drive it into the garage on the starter motor. Now I get to place a 4th parts order for a clutch seal kit..
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Oct 22, 2018 20:31
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Brakes done. Bleed them...feels about the same as they did...guess how they are for a the old F150 type stuff.
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Oct 22, 2018 23:53
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If it makes you feel better, I put new hard and soft lines and fresh fluid in my old truck and the brakes still felt like soft garbage.
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Oct 23, 2018 01:23
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Got my Suburban's dash back together and reinstalled, scavenged a bunch of parts and the trip counter gear off an '89 cluster and installed some LED bulbs. It looks so much better than before. I never realized the pre-90 suburbans only had 5 digit odometers since mine has 6. Bad news is somewhere between the repaired gauges, new dash pad and radio adapter plate the dash plastics that fit over the cluster no longer fit. Going to try it again tomorrow but I had to give up for tonight. Also yeah old trucks just have mushy brakes compared to modern cars. I accidentally do old man style sudden stops at low speed in my new car all the time from pressing the brakes firmly like I'm in the truck. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Oct 23, 2018 |
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Oct 23, 2018 02:16
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Removed the old and busted supercharger today. It's a little cramped in there, but wasn't too bad. I'll finish putting the new one in this weekend.   
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Oct 23, 2018 05:41
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MasonF posted:Removed the old and busted supercharger today. It's a little cramped in there, but wasn't too bad. I'll finish putting the new one in this weekend. If you don't mind me asking, what do one of those go for?
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Oct 23, 2018 14:59
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Colostomy Bag posted:If you don't mind me asking, what do one of those go for? Not too bad.
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Oct 23, 2018 17:17
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MasonF posted:Got mine for $268 shipped from a friend, but they're usually $400+ Thanks. Hell not too bad at all.
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Oct 23, 2018 19:43
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Welp, P0300 today. Didn't pop the CEL, but it did log a pending code when I checked, and I noticed the miss when I started it to go to work. Cleared up on its own after about a minute, ran fine the rest of the day. Guessing either the plugs are about done, or one of the spark plug wells is filling up with oil. When I got the car 6 months ago, I pulled the plugs, and they looked to be in good shape (and had the newer AC Delco part number), but one of them had a bunch of oil on the coil side. That was about 20k ago. Went ahead and ordered new AC Delco iridium plugs (aka NGK with a nice mail in rebate), Denso wires (OEM), and a (Felpro) valve cover gasket set tonight. I'm really crossing my fingers and hoping that's all it is - the car ran fine once it started firing on all 4, and has plenty of power (for a L61 anyway). No abnormal noises from the engine (it sounds exactly the same cold as it does hot, no piston slap, valve train isn't any louder when cold), so I'm guessing that spark plug well is starting to fill up with oil again. I'll have the new plugs Thursday; those are going in immediately. The cute little 3" wires will be here Friday, valve cover gasket over the weekend. The rear end end has been a bit too bouncy for entirely too long. Ordered AC Delco Professional shocks a few days ago, showed up today. I know they're nowhere near OEM quality (that would be AC Delco Original Equipment, or Sachs, neither of which I wanted to spend the money on), but Amazon has a 20% off coupon for AC Delco suspension components, and I also had a $10 courtesy credit for the motor mount that never showed up. 2 new rear shocks ran $50 and change, shipped via Prime. I don't expect the car to last long enough to wear these out anyway. Already have one on, I'll do the other as soon as the sky's urine flow slows down slightly.  Sorry for portrait photo, but the sky was starting to pee on me, so I wanted to at least get the wheel back on and get it off of stands. That shock is d-e-a-d. Compressed it fully. It never extended again on its own. Gonna go back out in a few and do the other side; they're stupid easy on this car, just 2 bolts. Though for some loving reason, the only socket in any of my sets that fits the lower (bigger) bolt is the 13/16" (3/8" drive) spark plug socket. No 1/2" drive socket in my set for 13/16" (or any kind of 13/16" socket aside from the spark plug socket), and the metric sockets don't go nearly as big as the SAE sockets.  (it's a combination metric + torx bolt, but the 13/16" spark plug socket is close enough).Sidenote: neighbor taking out his trash said "you must be from Detroit". I asked why, he said "because us people from Detroit are the only ones crazy enough to work on cars when it's pissing rain". Sorry neighbor, Texan through and through, I just work weird hours and get a hair up my rear end to finally fix poo poo at the weirdest times. But I did get to talk cars (60s and 70s Novas, specifically) for a few with him.e: got the other one done. lower bolt was seized in the collar. Threw a temper tantrum with kicking the ratchet and cussing a lot (car was on 2 jackstands + the jack + wheel sitting under it). Broke a ratchet, but that also broke the bolt loose from the collar. RR shock still had a little bit of a charge (took a few minutes to fully extend), LR shock never extended on its own once I compressed it by hand. I'm loving done with this car after the next round of repairs (fuel pump/tank/filler neck/fuel lines to/from filter "enhanced warranty"). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Oct 24, 2018 |
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Oct 24, 2018 06:51
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21mm maybe? It's within spitting distance of 13/16" and would make sense for suspension bolts, although if the rest of the fasteners are imperial it's odd. Previous owner/shop switched out with metric some time in the past?
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Oct 24, 2018 11:36
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Nah, everything's original, it's just your typical GM metric/SAE mess. Honestly, it's probably 21mm, but my sockets don't go that big. 13/16" was close enough to not round off anything; the bolt also had some form of Torx, but I didn't want to snap off a Torx bit in it. I tried driving it around the apt complex a little; there's a very noticeable difference even at 10 MPH (a firm jolt with one bounce going over a speed bump, instead of KACHUNKCLUNKBANGboingboingboingboingboingboingboingboing
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Oct 24, 2018 13:37
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