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Dump your pool water into the neibours yard.
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Oct 15, 2018 10:00
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totalnewbie posted:Also check your local state law. This thing right here, and but also local (county/city) ordinances. Seriously, property laws vary wildly by jurisdiction. If the neighbor isn't being responsive, talk to a lawyer before you take any action.
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Oct 15, 2018 13:32
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DaveSauce posted:This thing right here, and but also local (county/city) ordinances. Don't talk to a lawyer, the county should have an office more than happy to provide guidance.
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Oct 16, 2018 13:07
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Back to thermostat chat --- some of our honeywell thermostats are directly above baseboard heaters, so as soon as the heater turns on, the thermostat thinks its getting up to 90+ degrees and shuts off the heater. Other than relocating the thermostats to not be directly above heaters, is there any easier way to keep them sane? Trying to convert more of our 20 year old "low/medium/high" dials to actual temperature controlled thermostats but the ones directly above the heaters might have to stay 'dumb' it seems like.
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Oct 16, 2018 15:19
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Find a thermostat with a remote sensor. There are several types available.
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Oct 16, 2018 16:03
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I need a new roof (existing was installed in ‘93), and I’m interested in solar panel installation. Should I look for a combo installer or go piecemeal? Secondly, anyone have any experience with financing the whole solar shebang and exchanging the utility cost with a financing cost?
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Oct 16, 2018 18:52
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Your locale (because of state incentives), utility, construction type, square footage, and other details are highly relevant.
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Oct 16, 2018 19:38
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DNK posted:I need a new roof (existing was installed in ‘93), and I’m interested in solar panel installation. Should I look for a combo installer or go piecemeal? Leperflesh posted:Your locale (because of state incentives), utility, construction type, square footage, and other details are highly relevant. The only universal piece of advise: Don't lease it unless there are some damned attractive terms and you can guarantee you will be in the house for the term of the lease. (Some of them are really bad, and have things like "We pay you this much per month to use your roof, reduced by 2% a year because your panels degrade. No it's not linked to the actual degradation of your panels, why do you ask?" But the latter part is buried in the fine print and you didn't ask.)
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Oct 16, 2018 19:44
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MN Xcel (Northern States Power Co) Split-level, south-facing roof, no shade, not steep pitch 1900sqft, approx 1000kWh/mo e: also have a new gas furnace but I might supplement with electric heating if solar is installed to reduce actual utility costs. I have a 200amp line / breaker already, so I believe the wiring is adequate. DNK fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Oct 16, 2018 |
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Oct 16, 2018 19:54
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1000 kw/h a month and your rates are between .05 and .09 per kw/h I'm guessing your panel lease price would cost more than your electric bill.
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Oct 16, 2018 20:12
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DNK posted:MN Look up your average days of sunshine per year. I bet it's pretty crap. Here's a random website purporting to list incentives available in Minnesota: https://www.trunorthsolar.com/incentives/ relevantly: quote:Xcel Solar Rewards and quote:For the forth year, the Minnesota Department of Commerce is managing the Made in Minnesota solar PV incentive. I assume it's similar for 2018. It'd be good to find out if that lottery is relevant or if the demand for incentives is not yet exceeding supply. If I'm reading this right, you'd get somewhere between 8 and 26 cents per kWh, for ten years. If you look up your days of sunshine, look up efficiency of panels you'd have installed, multiply by square footage, and you can guesstimate the annual incentive range you'd be able to pull in and that will give you some basic napkin-math ammo for determining whether it's worthwhile at all, and if so, how long a self-financed ROI would take, and you can compare it to the deals on offer by the leasers/installers/etc. e. This site: https://www.energysage.com/solar-panels/solar-rebates-incentives/mn/ suggests Made in Minnesota is not available to Xcel customers, but maybe SolarSense is. Xcel also offers net metering, e.g. you get paid for the extra generation you feed into the grid... but be aware that net metering is unlikely to last unchanged, so maybe figure it into your 10-year payback budget but don't assume it'll still be there for like 20 year budgets. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 01:26
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Minnesota: Solar Rebates. Florida? Lol.
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Oct 18, 2018 01:47
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Net metering could theoretically disappear at any given rate case and those bastards are happening pretty frequently.
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Oct 18, 2018 02:09
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MrYenko posted:Minnesota: Solar Rebates. Supporting solar comes dangerously close to admitting that 90% of the state will be underwater by 2100.
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Oct 18, 2018 02:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Supporting solar comes dangerously close to admitting that 90% of the state will be underwater by 2100. I cannot wait for my property to be part of the Pine Island archipelago.
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Oct 18, 2018 02:25
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Anyone have a good reference guide for calculating costs of remodeling projects? I have a few improvements to do in a small space of time so I'll pay to have some of it done and do the rest myself, but wanted to maximize value/time. Things like painting rooms seem fairly low cost overall. I could do it easily enough too, but the ROI seems fair to pay someone. On the other hand, paying to replace a shower stall seems exorbitantly expensive compared to if I did it myself--I'm estimating $3k in materials/tools plus my time, vs the $10k bid I got from a remodeling company...but I've never done this sort of thing so maybe I'm way off.
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Oct 18, 2018 04:57
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I would replace a thousand showers before i would paint another room. gently caress that.
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Oct 18, 2018 05:01
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Ossipago posted:Anyone have a good reference guide for calculating costs of remodeling projects? I have a few improvements to do in a small space of time so I'll pay to have some of it done and do the rest myself, but wanted to maximize value/time. Things like painting rooms seem fairly low cost overall. I could do it easily enough too, but the ROI seems fair to pay someone. On the other hand, paying to replace a shower stall seems exorbitantly expensive compared to if I did it myself--I'm estimating $3k in materials/tools plus my time, vs the $10k bid I got from a remodeling company...but I've never done this sort of thing so maybe I'm way off. There is a reason the labor portion of the bathroom is so high. Are you prepared to spend that many hours? You're not going to be doing it nearly as fast as a contractor who does it all day every day. If you are pressed for time you will be able to paint in day and even if you gently caress up it's easy to fix.
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Oct 18, 2018 05:57
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A friend of mine got a fancy steam shower to replace her old shower, and "installing" it was a relatively inexpensive part of the remodeling process because they're practically pre-assembled. It was all of the tile work that really got em
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Oct 18, 2018 11:24
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I couldn't disagree more that paying for paint jobs is worth it, unless I've only ever got really inflated rates. It sucks, it could take a full day, but you only need to pay $40-$80 in paint and if you have good brushes they sort of make themselves worth it over time (and will save you a LOT of time). Installing a shower stall could be way more involved. If there's tiling then there's a level of difficulty that will really bother you if you mess something up, as well as any structural and waterproofing needs to be met. Though $10k is a lot, would need to know more. You can also try doing as much as possible yourself and then have someone else finish off the final touches, problem is usually finding someone that does good work and really small jobs.
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Oct 18, 2018 12:08
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QuarkJets posted:It was all of the tile work that really got em Tile showers are the gift that keeps on giving. They look great but drat they're a huge PITA to keep clean. Grout sucks. The Dave posted:I couldn't disagree more that paying for paint jobs is worth it, unless I've only ever got really inflated rates. It sucks, it could take a full day, but you only need to pay $40-$80 in paint and if you have good brushes they sort of make themselves worth it over time (and will save you a LOT of time). Good paint and good brushes/rollers are key to making painting easy. Don't get me wrong, it still sucks, but if you cheap out on the equipment and paint you'll have a REALLY lovely time.
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Oct 18, 2018 13:08
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DaveSauce posted:Tile showers are the gift that keeps on giving. They look great but drat they're a huge PITA to keep clean. Grout sucks. Just use dark gray grout. It looks good and doesn't show dirt much.
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Oct 18, 2018 17:22
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:Just use dark gray grout. It looks good and doesn't show dirt much. Use good quality ground regardless of color. I had white grout in my last shower for 6 years and it only needed regular cleaning, with a steam cleaning midway. Painting is awesome, it’s cheap and easy and changes a whole room in a day. Move all the poo poo, patch up any dings, tape off trim and floor, cut it in and roll out. I’ve talked to plenty of people who hate it and I just don’t understand. It’s work, that’s it. Get help or move slowly.
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Oct 18, 2018 18:48
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StormDrain posted:steam cleaning midway. I've been thinking of doing this to try to get us back to a maintainable place. Are consumer models sufficient or do I need to rent a professional unit from a hardware store?
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Oct 18, 2018 20:30
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How do you deal with weird texture issues on walls? Like some of my walls may have like a 4"x4" section that was badly patched a long time ago or that just looks kind of funny. What do?
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Oct 19, 2018 00:00
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You need to retexture it. Just as with painting, I have a guy I pay to do it. He's good at it and I'm not.
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Oct 19, 2018 00:07
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Congratulations, you now have an "accent wall." Cover that wall with snazzy wallpaper. Whisper "gently caress you, next owner" over and over again under your breath as you put it up.
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Oct 19, 2018 01:44
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Leperflesh posted:Congratulations, you now have an "accent wall." Cover that wall with snazzy wallpaper. Whisper "gently caress you, next owner" over and over again under your breath as you put it up.  
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Oct 21, 2018 16:23
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That’s so awesome.
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Oct 22, 2018 00:29
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I got some advanced stain repelling grout. it was $20 more and seems to be doing quite well two years in at not looking gross. It is also gray. I am not so sure the natural stone tiles were worth the money but I am sure the next owner will appreciate them when they are ripping them out.
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Oct 22, 2018 11:50
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That wallpaper looks like it might be structural. I would leave it in place if I were you...
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Oct 22, 2018 13:57
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Our house had this really ugly still-life-fruit wallpaper border around the top of one room. My wife was just going to paint over it, but I said 'oh no we own this house, we should do things properly!' So I started removing the wallpaper and found out that the previous owners had no such views, they had just tacked it up over successive layers of wallpaper. Once I started I couldn't work out how to back down, so I ended up stripping off all the wallpaper. Under that was some sort of weird plaster and surfacing layer that is probably as old as the house and started to crumble from age once exposed. So now I am stuck having to remove those crumbling areas, replaster them, and probably apply some sort of skim coat before finally painting. I should have just painted over it all.
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Oct 22, 2018 14:55
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Elephanthead posted:I got some advanced stain repelling grout. it was $20 more and seems to be doing quite well two years in at not looking gross. It is also gray. I am not so sure the natural stone tiles were worth the money but I am sure the next owner will appreciate them when they are ripping them out. I just bought that stuff for my master shower. Previous owner cheaply remodeled it so it leaked through the back wall, through the curb grout and under the glass, and the curb pitched away from the drain. Had to take it down to the wood framing where I discovered they didnt pull the liner all the way to the outer edge. Ended up putting redgard over the new cement and epoxy grout for the porcelain tile. That bitch doesnt leak anymore. Remodeling the basement now to add an extra 700sq of finished house and the walls are all wood paneling. The floor is all 6x6 asbestos tile. Gonna leave the tile in and just put engineered wood over it. Thankfully the basement never gets wet. The only thing I'm really stuck on is whether or not to finish the ceiling. It's only 7 feet at its lowest so the exposed ceiling adds visual height, but it won't look finished. I only have one friend taller than me so it should be alright to finish. Sepist fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Oct 22, 2018 |
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Oct 22, 2018 15:56
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Should I caulk any gaps between the fascia and the soffit? I noticed that a couple of my attic vents on the underside of the soffit have like an 1/8” gap to the fascia. I don’t have any gutters, and there’s some stucco on the underside of the soffit. It looks like it would let bugs/critters into the attic.
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Oct 22, 2018 17:06
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After living in my house for about 2 years, I noticed water stains on the ceiling underneath a shower. I tried caulking all the seams and joints where stray water might possibly be getting in, but after another shower and another (smaller and in a slightly different spot) water spot appearing, it appears we'll have to get serious. Who do I call about this? A plumber? A general contractor? I assume they are going to have to open up the ceiling. Would a plumber do that? Should I do that and take a look around before calling someone?
Elysium fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Oct 22, 2018 |
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Oct 22, 2018 17:40
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The wet drywall will have to go in any case, so there's no real harm in opening the ceiling up yourself, assuming you're comfortable doing so. It'll create a lot of dust of course, so have a plan for cleaning that up (and try to keep it off of anything hard to clean). You almost certainly have a leaky pipe in the wall. Whether it can be replaced from underneath will depend on where the leak is, but is really a question for a plumber (which I am not). Just be prepared to need to open up a wall to get access. At least the hole in the ceiling should help you identify where the leak is coming from.
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Oct 22, 2018 17:44
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Elysium posted:After living in my house for about 2 years, I noticed water stains on the ceiling underneath a shower. I tried caulking all the seams and joints where stray water might possibly be getting in, but after another shower and another (smaller and in a slightly different spot) water spot appearing, it appears we'll have to get serious. Who do I call about this? A plumber? A general contractor? I assume they are going to have to open up the ceiling. Would a plumber do that? Should I do that and take a look around before calling someone? The plumber will open up the ceiling if you don't want to yourself, and he should be able to recommend a guy to replace the drywall
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Oct 22, 2018 19:42
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I bought my first-ever leafblower over the weekend and it is awesome. Easily two hours of raking done in about 30 minutes.
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Oct 22, 2018 21:06
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z0331 posted:I bought my first-ever leafblower over the weekend and it is awesome. Mulching mower with a bag is even faster.
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Oct 23, 2018 03:12
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A month after getting a new roof in place we had water dripping from the ceiling in the kitchen. Turns out that the metal seams around the chimney are leaking. Time to  some carpenters again I guess.
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Oct 23, 2018 13:10
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