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Applebees Appetizer posted:I read a lot of reviews about xB clutches being horrible as well and it stopped me from getting a manual xB, although I was never able to drive one to actually see what the fuss was all about. Apparently the clutch has no "feel" and the shifter sucks, people were saying it wasn't very fun for a manual. Kind of a bummer because an xB with a good manual would be a fuckin blast. I test drove a first gen xB years ago and I didn't find the clutch to be too bad but yeah Toyota's economy car manuals are generally really bad.
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Sep 26, 2018 21:18
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STR posted:Except I was talking about a Toyota. the matrix was made in America 
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Sep 26, 2018 22:00
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Previa_fun posted:I test drove a first gen xB years ago and I didn't find the clutch to be too bad but yeah Toyota's economy car manuals are generally really bad. Supposedly they've fixed that with the new Corolla.
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Sep 26, 2018 23:21
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The clutch on my parents' Matrix XRS utterly ruined what would otherwise be a pretty dope car
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Sep 26, 2018 23:52
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Previa_fun posted:I test drove a first gen xB years ago and I didn't find the clutch to be too bad but yeah Toyota's economy car manuals are generally really bad. First gens apparently weren't horrible, it's the 2nd gen when it went all wrong I guess. Pity that some manual cars are ruined by a lovely clutch and/or shifter, if every manual car had a Miata clutch and shifter we'd all be in heaven.
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Sep 27, 2018 00:00
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If all cars had Honda/Mazda manuals as an option...
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Sep 27, 2018 00:10
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Rhyno posted:STR is awesome and I've learned tons from his posts. Ditto Meatpimp. I've been thinking about it.  What in the hell is going on with this thread? So I've been thinking about the noise. I think there's a good chance that it's the front differential. If it is, I have a plan. And I'm not happy about the plan. I do not have a lift. And I have 3 problems that need to be addressed with the car -- front differential, oil pan gasket, and thermostat/water pump. The front differential has to be removed, along with the subframe, to do the oil pan gasket. With the subframe removed, the thermostat/water pump changes from a royal pain in the rear end to a simple swap. So. I'm thinking about driving it as-is over the winter and, if it doesn't blow up, in the spring contract with a shop to drop the subframe and replace the parts. It'll be about 1000x easier on a lift, so I guess that's the cost of suburban living. 
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Sep 27, 2018 00:51
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EVERYWHERE 
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STR posted:Except I was talking about a Toyota. Aww poo poo, I thought you were taking about your Sat... KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:the matrix was made in America Yeah that's what I meant! Teketeketeketeke posted:The clutch on my parents' Matrix XRS utterly ruined what would otherwise be a pretty dope car I had an XRS for 3 years and yeah the clutch is unforgiving but it's a byproduct of a high-revving motor with zero low end torque. A softer clutch wouldn't survive many WOT pulls to redline, I suppose. I got used to it.
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Sep 27, 2018 01:10
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Seminal Flu posted:I've been thinking about it. This is about where AI starts rationalizing buying a lift for their garage...  I mean, hey. If that dude took an AMG engine out of a minivan on a Quickjack, that or a Maxjax should have you all set!
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Sep 27, 2018 03:59
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:the matrix was made in America angryrobots posted:Yeah that's what I meant! I'd like to invite everyone to take a look at the first digit of the VIN on the Matrix. The first digit is "2". 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Sep 27, 2018 |
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Sep 27, 2018 08:13
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Last I checked, Canada was part of the American continent. 
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Sep 27, 2018 12:54
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Alarbus posted:This is about where AI starts rationalizing buying a lift for their garage... a lift is my "i have arrived" status symbol
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Sep 27, 2018 13:02
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Seminal Flu posted:So. I'm thinking about driving it as-is over the winter and, if it doesn't blow up, in the spring contract with a shop to drop the subframe and replace the parts. It'll be about 1000x easier on a lift, so I guess that's the cost of suburban living. You're not trying hard enough. Raise the roof on your garage and install a lift  or get extra tall jack stands
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Sep 27, 2018 13:20
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https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cadet-6000xl-mid-rise-scissor-lift/A-p8442444e A lift without a high ceiling is doable. Thought about buying one of these many times but haven't pulled the trigger.
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Sep 27, 2018 17:45
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sirr0bin posted:https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cadet-6000xl-mid-rise-scissor-lift/A-p8442444e I can't imagine that lift being useful for anything. It's got the lift guts right where all the poo poo you'd need a lift to work on is located. I'd get quick jacks before that thing. E: for me it would be useless since an RWD car like a miata would have the drivetrain right above the lift mechanism. For a FWD car it would be useful up until you'd need to access the exhaust.
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Sep 28, 2018 12:52
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Dropping the exhaust was my first thought.
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Sep 28, 2018 13:05
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Modchange title to "haunted" cars, pls.
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Oct 2, 2018 14:32
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All set
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Oct 3, 2018 03:56
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Adiabatic posted:All set Thanks! Seems more fitting, anyway. I changed the oil today. The way this car is right now, it was a bit more work than normal. First off -- take off all of the cowl coverings and open up the waterproof DME box. Then unplug one of the DME connectors, take out the operative wire cluster and then remove the offending signal wire that is loving up the BSD subsystem. Then, start the car and let it warm up so it can get a reading of the current oil level. Oil level after 1000 miles, 1/2 quart added and quite a bit leaking out? Shows all bars full, good sign! Then, actually drain the oil into a graduated container. Just a hair over 6.5 liters. Good sign! Fresh fill is under 7 liters, so it's at most down 1 liter with over 1000 miles and whatever leaks. Then, refill with just under 7 liters and let the car warm up until it can check the oil level again. Full bars again. Done! So much loving drama instead of just having a loving dipstick. Edit: Why change oil with only 1k miles? Well, to get a benchmark on how much it's leaking/burning/whatever and also to just get fresh stuff in there. I had a lot of poo poo pumped into the intake chambers when I cleaned the intake, and I'm sure some of that got into the oil system, so this is a nice flush. Plus, I have no idea what the PO had in there, so we should be good and synthetic now with 0W40 that should cover it for a while. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Oct 3, 2018 |
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Oct 3, 2018 16:34
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Well the good news is now that you have a baseline, the actual process is really easy. The last time I did my oil, I think it was 40 minutes, most of which was having a friend bring my a strap wrench since I forgot where I packed the fancy cap tool due to moving. Smart.
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Oct 3, 2018 16:57
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Seminal Flu posted:Thanks! Seems more fitting, anyway. N54s generally consume a bit of oil as well. Mine was ran a bit harder than the average N54, but I was about a quart low every ~5k miles (no leaks). I ended up just doing 5k mile oil changes and that let me know when it was time, I was using factory oil which (supposedly) has a 15k mile change interval.
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Oct 3, 2018 19:41
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Two things: 1) HID Xenon bulbs definitely get dim over time. I knew these headlights sucked, but I didn't realize how bad until a car behind me was casting a shadow of my car -- in front of my car... fully overpowering my headlights. I replaced the original D1S bulbs with some cheapo Amazon replacements and man, they are lighting up the world like good HID projector bulbs are supposed to. 2) On my gear whine -- it may be the front driveshaft. As I listen to it more, it sounds like a pinion bearing whine, but I drove it on the highway for a half hour on Friday and the noise got very quiet by the end of the ride. I drove it today and it was still quieter. Still there, but quieter. My thoughts on this are that a) I may have rotated the driveshaft 90* when I disconnected it to do the transmission fluid. This shouldn't make a difference, but with 155k miles on it, maybe it does? Also, maybe that aggravated some wearing u-joints that are stiff and putting pressure on the bearings either coming out of the transfer case or into the front diff, making them whine. Does that sound plausible?
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Oct 22, 2018 15:09
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I've never heard of U-joints whining, usually they clunk like motherfuckers. What's the front driveshaft look like? I'm guessing it's a single piece, in which case orientation shouldn't matter relative to the flanges on either the transfer case or the front differential. If it's a two piece and you split the halves without maintaining orientation, then that could be a balance issue, but that should be rattling the whole drat car instead of just making noise.
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Oct 22, 2018 17:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've never heard of U-joints whining, usually they clunk like motherfuckers. I don't think it's the u-joints whining, I'm thinking they may be worn or stiff putting stress on either the output bearing on the xfer case or the input bearing on the front diff. It's a 1-piece driveshaft with a 4-bolt flange on each end. I know orientation shouldn't matter, but...
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Oct 22, 2018 17:48
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Ah, I follow - but if the joints are binding up it seems like it would make the shaft vibrate like hell as well. If you can disconnect each of the flanges, it should be pretty apparent even just moving them by hand whether or not they're too stiff (or sloppy).
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Oct 22, 2018 18:32
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meatpimp posted:My thoughts on this are that a) I may have rotated the driveshaft 90* when I disconnected it to do the transmission fluid. This shouldn't make a difference, but with 155k miles on it, maybe it does? Also, maybe that aggravated some wearing u-joints that are stiff and putting pressure on the bearings either coming out of the transfer case or into the front diff, making them whine. I'd think if this were the cause of any problem it'd be vibration vs. noise. If you have the car up on stands, 4 wheels off the ground, can you replicate the noise and isolate it? E:f;b, etc
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Oct 22, 2018 18:35
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Suburban Dad posted:I'd think if this were the cause of any problem it'd be vibration vs. noise. If you have the car up on stands, 4 wheels off the ground, can you replicate the noise and isolate it? I tried that early on and it was silent, it only showed when there was a load on the drivetrain. But interestingly enough, a couple longer drives and the noise is all but gone. Now I hear general drivetrain noise, but nothing specific that jumps out. This is a HUGE change and something that I've never seen before... any other time I've had a drivetrain noise, it got worse until I had to change parts... I'm not arguing, but it's strange. And I hope this thing keeps running, because I loving love it. It's uncommon, dead fast, quiet and comfy. I was sitting in the bank drive-through the other day, with the cold wind blowing outside and my hands being warmed by the heated steering wheel and man... that just set it for me. I just hope it doesn't blow up.
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Nov 21, 2018 21:11
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meatpimp posted:... because I loving love it. It's uncommon, Aside from my redactions this is both why we have a Land Cruiser and how I feel about it.
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Nov 21, 2018 21:35
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Tremek posted:Aside from my redactions this is both why we have a Land Cruiser and how I feel about it. I've got the Escalade for I had my son help me put the winter tires on it today. Man, it looks good with the 20" chrome wheels, but there's just not a lot of sidewall there. The 18" all terrains are a bit noiser, but it's like the thing is floating on the road. If it's anything like the other Toyota's I've had/seen, yours is probably reasonably quick, too... those motors seem to really break in strong.
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Nov 21, 2018 22:18
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meatpimp posted:I've got the Escalade for Yup we're GMT800 buddies, my other running shitheap is my '03 2500 Suburban. Re: floaty feeling (which I interpret as bad) - I will say the Bilsteins I put on the Suburban last year made a huge difference in body control even on the exact same 285/70/17 KO2s I'm also running on the Land Cruiser. re: Toyota 5.7, yeah it's reasonably quick and torquey. I think in its current state of tune (mild cam + LT headers and a TBSS style intake manifold & throttle body) the Suburban's LQ4 probably makes more power but is hampered by the lovely gearing of the 4L80e behind it + probably another thousand pounds of truck versus the 200 series. Anyway, tldr I want your drat wagon.
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Nov 21, 2018 23:12
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Tremek posted:Yup we're GMT800 buddies, my other running shitheap is my '03 2500 Suburban. Re: floaty feeling (which I interpret as bad) - I will say the Bilsteins I put on the Suburban last year made a huge difference in body control even on the exact same 285/70/17 KO2s I'm also running on the Land Cruiser. The 'slade has autoride shocks, which I have no complaints about. Good body control, not bouncy at all. I have been looking on and off, though, for a set of Eibach sways. That would get the thing dialed in for me. And it's got the even-shittier 4l60e, which really sucks. With a modern transmission, it'd be so much better. But, it does what I need. tldr I want my drat wagon, too.
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Nov 21, 2018 23:24
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meatpimp posted:The 'slade has autoride shocks, which I have no complaints about. Good body control, not bouncy at all. I have been looking on and off, though, for a set of Eibach sways. That would get the thing dialed in for me. My 2500 (Quadrasteer although a) it doesn't work right now and b) I don't think that changed the suspension setup) also had (magnetorheological, not air like the 1500s) AutoRide shocks on it when I got it but at 200k they were tired. The Bilsteins, despite being plain ol' dampeners, keep the beast riding reasonably well for 7000 lbs of 3/4 ton SUV, and were far cheaper than the OEM MR Autoride replacements. With the MR Autoride system versus air, if you replace the MR units with passive dampeners with you don't even have to trick the BCS unit with resistors, just unplug and ignore. Self-reflective existential crisis moment: this is how our generation develops terrible greybeard opinions not on cool things like 60s muscle cars, but on BOF SUVs. /tangent
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Nov 21, 2018 23:33
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Barely over 100k on mine, so it's got a long way to go before it wears out a lot of the stock stuff. It's not uncommon to see these things at 300k+ miles, as long as you keep the rust at bay. This will be the first winter that this car sees, but even then it won't see a lot of road salt. I didn't get it fluid filmed, though.  Still on the Escalade -- I'm taking it to my wife's family today and tried to clean it at the spray wash yesterday. Even with the foam brush it wouldn't get the poo poo off. I've never had a car that dirty. I had to hand wash it today... I've been parking it pretty much IN a crabapple tree and man, there was some serious poo poo on the paint. A little scrubbing though, and the ceramic coating took care of the rest. I didn't even wipe it down after washing... a quick splash with a couple buckets of water and it's perfectly presentable. On the Avalon -- kids today are weird. I've got one that turns 16 in a couple weeks, with this car that he can absolutely have, and he hasn't even looked up what it takes to get a permit. And I see that a lot, the kids just aren't interested in driving. It's weird.
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Nov 22, 2018 16:24
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I've heard the same from some of my coworkers with kids. I sold my Matrix XRS to a guy who bought it for his son - it's over a year later and the kid still hasn't gotten permit or license. Coworker is keeping it though, cause he's a Toyota guy and likes to use it for beer runs apparently. When it comes up, he can't help but mimic shifting gear at high revs to demonstrate why he likes it. 
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Nov 22, 2018 18:02
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meatpimp posted:On the Avalon -- kids today are weird. I've got one that turns 16 in a couple weeks, with this car that he can absolutely have, and he hasn't even looked up what it takes to get a permit. And I see that a lot, the kids just aren't interested in driving. It's weird. Yeah if you've been following my antics I bought my daughter a car 2 months before her 15th birthday and while she wasn't saying no to getting her permit, she wouldn't lift a finger to take any steps towards it. I finally had to set the appointment for her and she got it 16 months after i got her the car. At least now she loves driving and asks to do it every time we're in the car together.
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Nov 22, 2018 18:23
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This loving car.  So yesterday, just for shits and grins, I tried to check the oil level. And it worked. Great, right? But it shouldn't... before I had to remove the BSD bus lead from the ECU to the water pump to get the signal to process correctly... but not yesterday. So, against my better judgement, I checked the codes and had a whole bunch of new miscellaneous codes, mostly about voltage. But not the BSD code I've had for months. Now I drive it and I'm getting an Integrated Battery Sensor not found code. Keep in mind that the water pump, alternator, oil level sensor and IBS are all on the same data bus. So, what does that mean? Who the gently caress knows. The IBS is a $200 negative battery cable with a piece of electronics stuck to it to monitor/regulate power. It's a common failure item, but I cannot for the life of me see how I have been focused on the signal from the water pump, and have proven the problem there with the lead to the ECU, yet it's all working now and pointing at something else. This car likes to do fucky things.
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Nov 29, 2018 18:12
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Modern cars, man. Too many buses and modules talking. Finding a very good electrical guy to diagnose is amazing but rare to find.
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Nov 29, 2018 18:31
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Suburban Dad posted:German cars, man. FTFY
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Nov 29, 2018 19:58
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I'd say before you chuck $200 at it, check all connections on the..uh... IBS (  ) cable.
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Nov 29, 2018 20:01
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They're not alone anymore. Just give it a few years for corrosion and gremlins to make themselves at home.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:15
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