|
So I have a squad of Plague Marines that I'm gonna be painting and I was originally going to hit them with black spray primer and go from there, but it looks like getting Death Guard Green to cover black well is kind of a chore, so I picked up a spray can of it from the store today. Now, can I just use the can of DG green in lieu of primer entirely, or should I hit the squad with the black, then hit that with the green and see how it looks? I'm actually kind of excited to paint these, my last foray into 40k was in high school and nobody told me to thin my paints, which is a hell of a way to try and paint a bunch of Catachan guardsmen. (Their eyes still haunt me.)
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 01:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 03:32 |
|
|
If its GW spray, it's actually a primer, so go nuts!
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 01:57
|
|
|
tehsid posted:If its GW spray, it's actually a primer, so go nuts!  Thanks, that makes life way easier. I think I might have to take a day off from work to paint these dudes, I want light when I spray on the primer and there's supposed to be a nor'easter this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 02:00
|
|
|
tehsid posted:If its GW spray, it's actually a primer, so go nuts! Pretty much any spraypaint is a primer on plastic, nearly all of them use acetone
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 02:12
|
|
|
Booley posted:Pretty much any spraypaint is a primer on plastic, nearly all of them use acetone This. GW spray is effectively primer on plastic minis.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 04:21
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:This. GW spray is effectively primer on plastic minis. It is primer. Not effectively is. Read the 500 facts they posted the other day, they explicitly call it out as primer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 05:02
|
|
|
Booley posted:It is primer. Not effectively is. Read the 500 facts they posted the other day, they explicitly call it out as primer. This makes me wonder, because I've heard from a couple people IRL that their color sprays didn't keep well on metal models.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 05:35
|
|
|
Booley posted:It is primer. Not effectively is. Read the 500 facts they posted the other day, they explicitly call it out as primer. I made it to like 200 something but that's cool that they explicitly said it somewhere now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 12:13
|
|
|
GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Another Darkest Dungeon dude: This is fantastic.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 14:08
|
|
|
S.J. posted:This makes me wonder, because I've heard from a couple people IRL that their color sprays didn't keep well on metal models. I've never had good luck with Army Painter sprays on metal models. I haven't tried it on plastic since it's a bit more difficult to strip paint from that versus metal.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 14:16
|
|
|
selnaric posted:This is fantastic. Thank you!
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 16:27
|
|
|
S.J. posted:This makes me wonder, because I've heard from a couple people IRL that their color sprays didn't keep well on metal models. They don't. Metal models inherently chip easier because the paint can't seep into it like it can on plastic or some poo poo like that. Automotive primers help a lot in that regard.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 17:39
|
|
|
tehsid posted:
This is really great. Your colors are super vibrant and everything is crisp.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 17:41
|
|
|
Yeah, as obvious as it seems, some materials just plain don’t like regular paint. Took me way to long to figure out most paints and primers that can pass through an air brush won’t stick hard to glass because they have to not stick to the air brush.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 18:34
|
|
|
tehsid posted:
Is there any highlighting or anything to the blue orbs? It looks pretty flat. I would push contrast a little more, it doesn't look glowing at all to me. The rest of the model is outstanding work.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 23:30
|
|
|
The Ork is rad as hell, I love the high contrast. Colour choices were excellent.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 01:04
|
|
|
More Warmaster dudes.  ...I know the fireball's a bit off, but I didn't realize until I'd already started that I didn't have much in the way of yellows, oranges or reds.  I mean, I could've gone with blue flame, but that may be for the other one I have like this.   Leave it to the camera to enhance any flaws. In this case, a little dot of blue on the top right white section of the staff.   These guys aren't done yet, but I'm just showing off the freehand crescent moon of Lileath on the banner. Still gotta tighten it up in a couple of places, like on the left-hand side of the outside of the moon, have the thumb cross the two fingers, and smooth out the bottom of the glove-hand. However, I did do it without looking at any reference points while painting, only going off of a mostly remembered shield design from the Uniforms and Heraldry book, so I'm just stoked that it came out as close as it did.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 04:55
|
|
|
Aniodia posted:More Warmaster dudes. The fireball looks good, don't sweat it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 13:06
|
|
|
Very nearly done with the Chieftains now. Two tank commanders to do then add some wire for the aerials.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 13:07
|
|
|
I love those Chieftains  Did the Plague Doctor: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 15:20
|
|
|
"I have distilled an elixir of lead and pomegranate..."
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 16:13
|
|
|
Shadespire skellies: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 16:52
|
|
|
I love a happy skeleton
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 16:58
|
|
|
Those skellies look awesome, lets get some closeups.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2018 18:25
|
|
|
ijyt posted:They don't. Metal models inherently chip easier because the paint can't seep into it like it can on plastic or some poo poo like that. Automotive primers help a lot in that regard. I'm not talking about chipping, I'm talking about it not adhering to the model when it was initially sprayed. berzerkmonkey posted:I've never had good luck with Army Painter sprays on metal models. I haven't tried it on plastic since it's a bit more difficult to strip paint from that versus metal. GW Brand, not AP. I'm not a fan of AP's color sprays from what I've used, they have an oddly waxy finish and they don't seem to match their paint pots.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 08:04
|
|
|
S.J. posted:I'm not talking about chipping, I'm talking about it not adhering to the model when it was initially sprayed. I've had that trouble with Army Painter black sometimes. While I was painting a metal infinity miniature and even after it's primed so thick I'm losing some details, I found my paint is beading on it. I use some hardware store primer now and it's pretty good and protects against rust I guess.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 08:09
|
|
|
S.J. posted:I'm not talking about chipping, I'm talking about it not adhering to the model when it was initially sprayed. Mould release then.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 09:53
|
|
|
S.J. posted:I'm not talking about chipping, I'm talking about it not adhering to the model when it was initially sprayed. You gotta wash metal minis before paining. Sometimes there’s still mold release agent on them and that will keep the paint from sticking.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 10:54
|
|
|
AP paints don't stick to metal well even if you've washed them, at least in my experience. Also, "mold release" on metal models isn't a thing - oil based mold releases will break down rubber molds, so they use talc or similar powders to "lubricate" the molds. Resin models, however, definitely need to be washed both due to the oil based mold releases used with the silicone molds and the oils in the resin itself.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 13:35
|
|
|
Some metal models are absolutely covered in something. I forget which company it was, but if I touched unwashed models my hands smelled like silicone grease. It might have been Infinity or Knight Miniatures. I can remember the smell, but not the company. #olfactorymemory
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 14:46
|
|
|
What's a good place to get stainless steel beads for agitating dropper bottles? Also what size magnets would be good for hand/weapon swaps?
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 14:59
|
|
|
I use hematite beads rather than stainless. Stainless can still rust, especially if it's of dubious grade. Hematite is iron oxide already. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8KA9J7
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 15:08
|
|
|
dexefiend posted:Some metal models are absolutely covered in something. I forget which company it was, but if I touched unwashed models my hands smelled like silicone grease. After assembling a pile of infinity models this week, can confirm they have a residue of something
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 15:37
|
|
|
Chance II posted:After assembling a pile of infinity models this week, can confirm they have a residue of something spain
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 15:47
|
|
|
darnon posted:I use hematite beads rather than stainless. Stainless can still rust, especially if it's of dubious grade. Hematite is iron oxide already. Yeah, same here. Hematite works great. (If you're looking for some beads with Prime shipping, try these. They're the largest size that will fit in standard dropper bottles.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 17:25
|
|
|
I use glass beads for my agitators.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 17:44
|
|
|
I just use a couple small bits of clipped sprue. Not sure if it's the best idea, but it works.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 18:05
|
|
|
I used hematite but found they weren't heavy enough (more mass = more inertia = less likely to just stay stuck in place as you shake the bottle); also I was never brave enough to put more than one hematite agitator in any given bottle because while hematite won't rust (because it is rust), it can shatter, in which case now you've got rust dust in your paint, and having two hematite beads rattling around together in a paint pot felt like a great way to invite a shattering event. Glass is likewise not very heavy and prone to shattering; I found it didn't work very well either. So I switched over to these.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 18:22
|
|
|
Floppychop posted:I just use a couple small bits of clipped sprue. Not sure if it's the best idea, but it works. This is what I've always done, though I've usually got chunkier bits of resin knocking about rather than sprues
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 18:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 03:32 |
|
|
I have a painting question this thread might be able to help with. I think I've finally decided on a titan legion for Adeptus Titanicus and they've got an interesting scheme. They're primarily a mottled green with red accents. My basic idea for the green is to start with a dark base and sponge on coats of progressively lighter greens, particularly towards the center of each panel. Once the greens are in place, I'd do a thinned green glaze to tie everything together. Would my proposed method work? I haven't worked much with sponging in the past, but I am fairly experienced with blending and mostly aim for a clean style with a lot of edge highlighting. Sorry for the bad picture, but this is the only modern example I can find of this scheme. All of the others are hilariously old models with retro neon paint jobs. While that's still cool, it's not what I'd be aiming for. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2018 21:55
|
|
