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BIG HEADLINE posted:Did you test different slots? Such as, most dual-channel boards are A/A/B/B, so you'd either use A1/B1 or A2/B2. You want to rule out the potential of a bad DIMM slot, too. Yeah, I tested A1/B1 and A2/B2 and both of them worked for booting but still ran at 2400 hz and still hardware reserved half of it. Meanwhile, one stick of ram boots in all four slots while the other one boots in none of them. So I think that rules out a bad DIMM slot?
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Oct 31, 2018 01:18
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The EVGA Z390 says it has USB C but I don't see any on it in the images. What's up with that? I guess it has headers but no actual ports on the board out of box? That's awful for this gen. And I went through the checkout process today and it looks like they'll do free shipping to Canada? That cant be real can it
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Oct 31, 2018 01:19
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codo27 posted:The EVGA Z390 says it has USB C but I don't see any on it in the images. What's up with that? I guess it has headers but no actual ports on the board out of box? That's awful for this gen. And I went through the checkout process today and it looks like they'll do free shipping to Canada? That cant be real can it Beware - free shipping doesn't mean no customs charge or delay.
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Oct 31, 2018 01:21
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codo27 posted:The EVGA Z390 says it has USB C but I don't see any on it in the images. What's up with that? I guess it has headers but no actual ports on the board out of box? That's awful for this gen. And I went through the checkout process today and it looks like they'll do free shipping to Canada? That cant be real can it Yeah, it seems that way - no Type-C port except the internal header below the 24-pin connector.
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Oct 31, 2018 01:43
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So what's the RAM speed recommendation to pair the 9nth gen Intel chips? 3200? 3600? Is it worth it to go higher? Beyond speed are there other aspects to consider?
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Oct 31, 2018 01:50
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emocrat posted:So what's the RAM speed recommendation to pair the 9nth gen Intel chips? 3200? 3600? Is it worth it to go higher? Beyond speed are there other aspects to consider? 3000-3200, It's not as important as with AMD but it plays a not insignificant role in minimum framerates. Price/perf falls off a cliff after that. RAM speed is a function of both speed and latency (CAS timing), but better latencies aren't worth the premium.
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Oct 31, 2018 01:58
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emocrat posted:So what's the RAM speed recommendation to pair the 9nth gen Intel chips? 3200? 3600? Is it worth it to go higher? Beyond speed are there other aspects to consider? Buildzoid made a comment somewhere that the integrated memory controller on the 9th gen might actually be worse than the 8th gen's, which might impact very high speed RAM. Honestly, treat 3600 as your ceiling, because 3866+ is still atrociously priced. I'm going with 'just' 3200, albeit a 2x16 kit.
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Oct 31, 2018 02:00
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Cool, thanks for the replies. Seems like I can save a few bucks and opt for the 3200.
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Oct 31, 2018 02:37
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So I spent about half an hour at Micro Center today chatting with a sales guy who seemed pretty knowledgable. Made me feel old though, since I haven't built a computer in almost 20 years. This build is similar to several that have been posted in the past few pages. Goal here is cheap casual gaming in a small footprint, I'm coming from a Macbook pro so I'll probably be impressed with anything. No 4K, no VR. I'd like to be able to run Cyberpunk 2077 at a decent framerate in 1080p when it comes out. Small size is partly because I have an international move coming up and this will be in my luggage, and partly because it's what I generally prefer aesthetically. Here's what we came up with: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty B450 GAMING K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($93.98 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($123.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Inland - 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($284.98 @ Newegg) Total: $725.83 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-30 21:32 EDT-0400 Boot drive will be a Samsung EVO that I already have, the Inland SSD will be main storage. I wanted a smaller form factor, my sales guy recommended a Cougar QBX which is what he uses on one of his machines. It's not on pcpartpicker. I think the trickiest thing will be working around the PSU and then once it's built, keeping the temps/noise down. He recommended a Corsair SF600 PSU for that case, as the modularity will make cabling much easier without getting in the way of the graphics card. Micro Center is running a promo right now where you get a free EVGA 500 watt PSU with purchase of the 1060, so I might try that PSU first. So I guess my questions are: 1. RX580 8 GB vs 1060 6 GB? - Leaning towards the 1060 but performance seems neck and neck based on userbenchmarks, and the 580 is slightly cheaper. 2. Is the mini ITX case going to be a huge PITA? Should I go with something slightly larger and easier to put together like the Fractal Design Focus Mini or Define Mini C? 3. Anything that is glaringly wrong or out of line?
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Oct 31, 2018 02:47
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The 580 is a little better in 2018 with the driver maturity AMD have been doing. We stopped recommending it because it was the crypto enthusiast darling and cost a stupid amount. I can't make an informed comment on the PSU, but a 7-year warranty is a little short these days. 10+ are common and are an indicator in a level of trust in the unit. That case seems to mount normal size ATX units if needed (?). I'd personally only buy an SSD from Samsung, intel or kingston.
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Oct 31, 2018 03:19
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Tyro posted:2. Is the mini ITX case going to be a huge PITA? Should I go with something slightly larger and easier to put together like the Fractal Design Focus Mini or Define Mini C?
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Oct 31, 2018 03:34
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BIG HEADLINE posted:As I've said a few other times - the EVGA boards can be covered under their extended warranty program since the SKU ends in -KR. For a $229 board, covering it for ten years would be only $30 more: https://www.evga.com/support/warranty/extended.asp Thank you much! EDIT: I started looking at ASUS z390 motherboards as well...anything particularly wrong with them? Seem to be comparable to EVGA. pliable fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 04:17
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Tyro posted:So I guess my questions are: Mini ITX is what it is, you are paying for size with cost, additional complexity for part-picking and either noise or thermals. If this is the first time you've built in 20 years then maybe think about something a little bigger, or go on PcPartPicker and look for someone who has done a similar build and copy their picks of mobo/cooler/GPU. But, if you know what you're doing, just figure that you may be in for a couple nights of fiddly component assembly and cable management until you figure out what you're doing. It's not rocket science, just loving annoying. Buy yourself a 1000-pack of micro cable ties too, and a decent pair of wire snips from Harbor Freight or Lowes if you don't have them. I would consider spending the extra $40 for the 2600X, you will have a guaranteed overclock and they are more efficient doing it since you can keep normal power management rather than manually volting the 2600. This is a thermal edge in a mITX case. I would think strongly about going to a NH-L9i (with AM4 mounting kit) or whatever low-profile Noctua fits into the available CPU clearance on that case. You should probably also look at replacing any case fans with something quieter, because again, in compact mITX builds there is a very real tradeoff between noise and thermals and spending money is the only way to get an edge. It's a consequence of the lovely airflow. The 580 is slightly faster than the 1060 at the cost of pulling twice the power. In a mini-ITX case that can be a problem, the 1060 has a lot less heat to dissipate. This is potentially one of the situations where you should seek out an NVIDIA Founders Edition card, because a blower will help in an airflow-restricted situation, and FE cards are the best blower on the market, they are much quieter at a given power dissipation (on top of having much less power to dissipate). The Corsair SF600 is probably the correct decision on a PSU, your choices are very limited for SFX and that's the best. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 04:39
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The Cougar QBX has the graphics card positioned right up against the bottom vents, so I think it would probably work better with a twin-fan card than a blower. At least, that was my experience with the Core V1, where the GPU pulls in air through the side vent. Moving from a blower 1070 Ti to a 2-fan 1080 Ti dropped my GPU temperature by ~ 12 degrees while only increasing the CPU by 2 or 3 degrees. I had to use a custom fan curve to prevent the blower from throttling, so it was generally running at 70-80% and sounded like a jet engine, while the 1080 Ti rarely goes over 50% fan speed on the default curve. The QBX will have a bit more restricted airflow, but probably not by enough to recommend a blower. E: I'm also not convinced that a SFX PSU is necessary or even preferable to an ATX. The airflow seems designed around compartmentalizing the motherboard, so reducing the size of the PSU might just mean worse airflow direction. You'd probably need a bracket too, because it doesn't seem to support SFX out of the box. E2: VVV I guess that works for SFX airflow. VVV Stickman fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 05:05
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I'll also point out that the QBX (if you decide to go with it) can fit a relatively large air cooler (if you decide to go with one of those as well), eg a Noctua U9S:
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Oct 31, 2018 05:16
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OK, I got a couple extra little questions. What is a good cheapo keyboard for my son, if he’s gaming. He said I can just pick whatever, he has no preference. And then is there any good recommendations for a wireless card. We have a R7500 Nighthawk. He’s on the third floor of our condo, so hardline is kind of out of the question. But he is directly above the router.
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Oct 31, 2018 06:07
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Kramdar posted:OK, I got a couple extra little questions. What is a good cheapo keyboard for my son, if he’s gaming. He said I can just pick whatever, he has no preference. And then is there any good recommendations for a wireless card. We have a R7500 Nighthawk. He’s on the third floor of our condo, so hardline is kind of out of the question. But he is directly above the router. For a keyboard, the Corsair K55 jumps to mind - it's not mechanical, but you're not going to find a decent mechanical for under $60. As for a wireless card, I've never personally used this, but the reason I like the look of it is that it's effectively an mPCIe adapter card. If you ever upgrade your router, you can just drop in a newer mPCIe WLAN card: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B0713RRZMB?th=1 BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 06:44
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Kramdar posted:OK, I got a couple extra little questions. What is a good cheapo keyboard for my son, if he’s gaming. He said I can just pick whatever, he has no preference. And then is there any good recommendations for a wireless card. We have a R7500 Nighthawk. He’s on the third floor of our condo, so hardline is kind of out of the question. But he is directly above the router. get one of these, they aren't super fancy but they have good build, good mechanical switches, n-key-rollover (won't ever have too many keys pressed), and have a key combo that'll lock out the win+option keys to avoid the chance he tabs out before that sick killshot. I bought one and then I bought another for a spare, I strongly prefer these to my old Cherry MX Blue keyboards and they are better for gaming than the buckling-springs (Unicomps+Model Ms) I use at work. Frankly for gaming I think you should look at powerline ethernet adapters. The 1 GBe adapters should be able to actually deliver like 100 mbit but it'll be way lower latency than wireless - and latency matters when gaming. And 2 floors away is a long shot for wireless, I'd give this a try and see what happens. My experience with long-distance PLE has been much, much better than long-distance wireless. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 06:48
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Depending on your condo's construction and your router, three floors might be challenging for wireless. Have you tried laptop wifi from his room? If that has connectivity issues, a wifi card probably will too. If your condo is on one power circuit and has a decent power circuit, you could try powerline adapters which use your existing power wiring as Ethernet. Mine work decently well, but I had some serious problems with them dropping the connection every hour or so. Apparently it's a common issue caused by problems with the power-saving feature. Using this start-up script to ping the router every few seconds fixed it for me.
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Oct 31, 2018 06:52
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I've been looking around for one of these for a while: https://www.amazon.com/Sourcingbay-NGFF-Wireless-Card-Adapter/dp/B013U4401W It's a PCIe to M.2 2230 adapter with the antennae ports already added. Just drop in your own Intel 7-9th Gen WLAN card for ~$20-30. The diagram's kind of confusing, though - it can be used with an internal USB header *or* through a PCIe x1 connection. And yeah, Powerline is definitely a good option, but save your receipt just in case. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 07:07
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I'm going to 3rd a powerline adapter. They are incredible. Best money I ever spent was on one.
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Oct 31, 2018 07:08
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I do have a powerline to my room for Netflix. So yes, it is the way to go. But do two sets interfere? I do WiFi to my PC since we have a loft and the signal is strong up there.
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Oct 31, 2018 07:40
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Kramdar posted:I do have a powerline to my room for Netflix. So yes, it is the way to go. But do two sets interfere? I do WiFi to my PC since we have a loft and the signal is strong up there. Nope, they don't really interfere, I've run 3 nodes on the same network before. The PLEs are smart enough to establish their own QOS over the powerline network. Will you trash throughput by running a big copy or something over it while he's gaming, yes. But it's going to be worse on wireless.
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Oct 31, 2018 07:45
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SalTheBard posted:I'm going to 3rd a powerline adapter. They are incredible. Best money I ever spent was on one. but i hear the third power line is always the killer
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Oct 31, 2018 07:47
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Paul MaudDib posted:Nope, they don't really interfere, I've run 3 nodes on the same network before. The PLEs are smart enough to establish their own QOS over the powerline network. What brand do you prefer? The first one I got was a TPLink, but had to reset that too many times and switched to a Netgear and had no problems.
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Oct 31, 2018 07:54
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Kramdar posted:What brand do you prefer? The first one I got was a TPLink, but had to reset that too many times and switched to a Netgear and had no problems. TPLink is what I have, and it reset all the time before I set up the ping workaround. Now it works fine, but if Netgear works without the extra hassle that's the way to go. Generally you can just get another set or single of the same type and sync it to your existing network. Check your model first, though - apparently some don't support additional end-user adapters. Stickman fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 08:11
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EVGA b-stock sale is up, they have 970s for $100 and 750 G2s for $50, both with f/s, didn't see much else. edit: 1070 ti for $300 is OK Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 08:13
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Paul MaudDib posted:EVGA b-stock sale is up, they have 970s for $100 and 750 G2s for $50, both with f/s, didn't see much else. Man, oos already on that 1070.
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Oct 31, 2018 08:58
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Tyro posted:3. Anything that is glaringly wrong or out of line?
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Oct 31, 2018 09:04
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Are there any cases out there with particularly exceptional dust filtering?
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Oct 31, 2018 09:19
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The filters on the Lian Li O11 line are supposedly dense enough that they impede airflow to a degree that can impact thermals. The only way around it is to remove them, at which point they become the best air-cooled case around at present. Not sure if that's overboard in regards to what you're looking for, though.
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Oct 31, 2018 09:26
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How exceptional do you need? The Silverstone Mammoth MM01 uses a HEPA filter on it's only intake. If you don't need as much computing power, there's fanless cases that are literally sealed boxes. If you just need it to be somewhat dust-free and are still willing to clean it out every once in a while, there are several cases that come with more porous filters, like the Suppressor F1 and the Fractal Design Mini, Nano, and R lines. There's also a company, DEMCiflex, that sells magnetic filters for a huge range of cases. E: Comedy option: blow all the dust out (Linus warning). Stickman fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 09:38
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Kramdar posted:Man, oos already on that 1070. still shows in stock for me
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Oct 31, 2018 09:47
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Thanks for the advice everyone, I really appreciate it. Lots to think about, I'm leaning towards staying mini-ITX, and it looks like the 1060 is the right choice there.Spectracide posted:Just a heads up if it wasn't already on your mind and you do go with a mini-ITX case, you've got an ATX motherboard picked out. Good catch. My mistake entering it into pcpartspicker, the one I was eyeballing in the store is the mini-ITX version of that board. EDIT simple question answered by google Tyro fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 12:12
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After asking around, I have the following build for photo/video editing and gaming (no soundcard or HDDs on the list, since I already have those): PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/T4bzGG CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($369.89 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($239.49 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($129.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB OC BLACK Video Card Case: Fractal Design - Define R6 Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($155.35 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($147.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1122.41 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-31 11:15 EDT-0400 Is it OK, or overkill?
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Oct 31, 2018 16:18
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2400 speed memory sounds like a mistake in a build of that quality, I'd shoot for 3000-3200mhz.
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Oct 31, 2018 16:37
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fargom posted:2400 speed memory sounds like a mistake in a build of that quality, I'd shoot for 3000-3200mhz. Since I've been out of the game for a while... What is the effect of that? I don't mean to question just suggestion, I'd just appreciate it if you could explain the difference. Thanks!
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Oct 31, 2018 16:49
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Non Serviam posted:Since I've been out of the game for a while... What is the effect of that? I don't mean to question just suggestion, I'd just appreciate it if you could explain the difference. Thanks! Faster RAM means the CPU doesn't have to wait as much for data it's working with to be loaded from/stored to memory. In practical terms the effect of this varies wildly from small but measurable (most games, where it mainly shows itself in the form of a small improvement to worst-case frame times, effectively making your FPS more consistent) to pretty significant (things like video processing, where a lot of time is spent moving video frame data from and to memory). For most people faster RAM is a very small improvement, but since DDR4-3000 is almost the same price as DDR4-2400, there's really no reason not to go for the upgrade. Just remember to enable XMP in BIOS or it won't run at its rated speed.
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Oct 31, 2018 17:06
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so I probably should move up from these 2800mhz CL17s, huh
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Oct 31, 2018 17:13
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so how's the jump from 1070 to
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Oct 31, 2018 17:32
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