|
God bless you for going with split loom or split braided. I've worked on so many cars where style trumped maintenance that made me rip my hair out. I think my all time favorite wiring tool is a stitch remover. Makes opening up old wiring a breeze unless it's in that braid. If you're going to modify existing wiring and haven't used one I highly recommend it.
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 04:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 15:20 |
|
|
Darchangel posted:Redline sounds right, but I didn't put the carb and air cleaner on the car, the previous owner did. I've seen a number of 4ACs with the same setup, so I assume that it's a kit. gently caress yeah. It is in fact sitting on a weber carb in an early 80s (i think) mazda b2000. I'll have to call the customer up and have him bring his old filter up so we can get exact measurements. Iirc, the length and width are right, but the height is the real worry with his stuff, since there is little to no clearance to the hood.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2018 08:10
|
|
|
Laserface posted:with regards to your custom pedals, be mindful of the shank of the screws sticking out the back of them. may not be an issue for you, but the PO of my runabout Toyota Yaris fitted after market pedal covers, and the screws that held the cover to the OEM clutch pedal managed to puncture through the floor carpet and then get stuck in said puncture at times, causing the clutch to be half depressed at times, resulting in the clutch wearing out prematurely. Good point, but, yeah but, it never seemed to be an issue. I’d do it differently today ( thread the holes in the backing plates, at the very least. ) honda whisperer posted:God bless you for going with split loom or split braided. I've worked on so many cars where style trumped maintenance that made me rip my hair out. That’s brilliant! I’ll have to steal my wife’s.  And yeah, maintainability is always a concern to me. Elmnt80 posted:gently caress yeah. It is in fact sitting on a weber carb in an early 80s (i think) mazda b2000. I'll have to call the customer up and have him bring his old filter up so we can get exact measurements. Iirc, the length and width are right, but the height is the real worry with his stuff, since there is little to no clearance to the hood. The part number I listed is the 2.5” high version, I think. There appear to be several different heights for various applications.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2018 05:20
|
|
|
Just a heads up for all zero of you salivating on what I'll do next that there will be no progress this weekend. I'm attending and working at a literary F/SF convention in Dallas over the weekend. I'll be nerding it up, drinking, and such late into the night. If you're a nerd and close to Dallas/Fort Worth: http://fencon.org/
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 18:02
|
|
|
OK, got some stuff done!  ...and found more stuff that needs to be done  The targets for the weekend were the rust holes in the cowl, and the hole in the firewall for the EFI wiring. With the fender off, the back side of the broken off bolts for the dead pedal were revealed, so I took that as a target of opportunity.  also hadn't noticed this rust hole near the door hinge:  This thing is rusting in the weirdest places. That one may be due to the reinforcing just below it on the other side:  But it's not even right up to it... Close up of the aforementioned rust in the upper cowl:  Several penetrations, plus the vertical bit there should be solid. We shouldn't even be able to see in there at all! This is the same area on the other side (above the hinge, which also has some rust. More on that later.)  Inside of the cowl dust (up through the round hole. You can just see the penetrations. Must get a snake camera some day...)  I can't just stick the phone into the speaker hole, because there's another reinforcing bit above the speaker:  That black tube is the drain for the sunroof, going up into the A-pillar. Needless to say, all of this got a coat of rust converter, and I'll probably slather POR15 all around, since I have a 6-pack of the little tins. I attacked the stubs of the dead pedal bolts with vice-grips. One came out, one decided to be a bastard.  Fine. I ground it flat and flush with my Dremel, then drilled it out. Got a little off center. I tried to chip it out, but not lucky:   So I got it closer with a round file and a rotary file on the Dremel:  Then tapped it:   Done! That rust there got wire brushed and converted, as well. Supplies for today's adventures:  2-1/4" bi-metal hole saw. I didn't have *any* hole saws for metal, nor a 2-1/4". The actual hole I need is 2-1/2", but it's got an 1/8" lip that I need to account for, hence 2-1/4". Also found this while buying the Steel Stik  That's going to be a whole lot less messy than the brush in a can. To start off on the cowl rust, I used a small grinding stone on the Dremel to get rid of the thin, jagged edges:   Then slathered it in the epoxy:  Terrible picture. I'm sorry. The rust over by the hinge:   After a little cleanup:  The cowl area will probably get POR-15, and probably a coat of seam sealer, and will get painted with the epoxy primer along with everything else. So, since there was rust on the driver's side, let's go have a look at the other side. Wide angle was posted a few pics up. Didn't look too bad, but given what was in the other side, I was concerned. Can we get a look in here?:  Uh oh    FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF... dang. No access from the wiper area:  That's also where the HVAC picks up outside air. On this one, I decided to punt and ignore it in favor of something I can actually do right now, while I mull over solutions. I did hit it with rust converter for the time being, as much as I could reach. Really, I have two options: 1)ignore it (not going to happen. That's a direct hole from outside to inside the car, BTW, and my brain isn't going to *let* me ignore it...) and 2) cut or otherwise remove that reinforcing piece to allow access. It's a bunch of spot welds, some of which may be difficult to get to, so may have to cut as well. That means I'm going to need to get gas for my MIG if I want to have any hope of putting it back together decently. Fluxcore is a pain with sheet metal. As far as the rust repair, fiberglass would work fine, since it's non-structural, but I have a MIG welder.  I'll figure that out. On to making another big hole in the firewall. If I needed to make several flanged holes, I'd probably ask my dad to turn up a flanging die, but I only need the one. I came across the concept of a "bob stick" while researching flanging dies, used in the homebuilt aircraft arena. There, it's used to just put a roughly 15-20-degree flange on a hole for strength, same as you would with a dimple die. They get to use wood sticks, since they're working with light gauge aluminum. http://www.eaavideo.org/detail/videos/feature/video/820371239001/flanging-lightening-holes-with-the-bob-stick I'm working with steel, and just to add to the difficulty, I need a 90-degree flange, and it's only a 2-14" hole. Start with a piece of steel rod that used to be the pivot lever for a sink drain, and cut a slot in it  I decided a practice run would be in order to refine technique. Steel from the top cover of a hard drive, with 2-1/4" hole (since this was a test, the hole was made with my air nibbler, then finished out with a grindstone and sanding roll.) 2-1/2" circle was marked out beforehand as a guide.    Test was successful:   The stick got it most of the way there, then a little work with a small ball-peen got the flange to 90 degrees. This time the hole ended up slightly less than 2-1/2" - I discovered that you need to have the end of the stick a bit past where you actually want the bend, to account for the radius of the bend. Also, on this sheet metal, the slot in the stick was a little loose, making it harder to bend when it started getting closer to 90. A taller flange would actually be easier to bend, since you'd have more material to grip. Even though the hole was a bit small, the grommet fit with a little squeezing:    Now it's time for the real thing. Marked and pilot hole drilled:  Using my 2-1/2" hole saw as a template to mark the outer edge:    ...ah. The new hole saw is a bit tall. I could have made it slightly shorter by using the mandrel it came with, but probably still not short enough. I don't have a 90-degree drill (yet), but I do have one of those adapters:   Here we go! Hole.  (the bendy straw on new WD-40 cans is pretty handy.)  Let the light shine in Now to get that flange bent up!   ...ah. Fine. Mr. Hacksaw would like to speak to you.  Bob stick worked pretty well up to about 80 degrees, then it became unhappy.  I cut a new slot in the other end, thinking that the first slot had fatigued after bending one hole and most of the second:  but:  Nope. So I went after it with the ball-peen hammer. It needed a bit more work thean the first hole, and the close quarters presented a challend, but it worked:    2-1/2":  Grommet fits and stays put:   I actually overshot just a bit, and went back and tightened it back down a hair by bending the flange back in a tad. It will get sanded and made prettier for painting while prepping the rest of the engine bay. That's the next step: a whole lot of sanding. Whee! I'll need to make a decision on the passenger side rust. I should be able to work on that without damaging the engine bay paint if I don't do the repair first, but I would prefer to not take the chance. Nothing says I can't do the epoxy primer in several sections or steps, though, if necessary.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2018 22:45
|
|
|
That flanged hole makes me happy The other holes, not so much.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2018 23:15
|
|
|
Right? I mean, clearly, they're not big enough to reduce weight significantly...  I shouldn't complain. Dude over on RX-7Club has replaced quite a few bits on his '79, particularly the upper control arm mounts, (in)famous for rust. It was his dad's car, so a labor of love. Unfortunately, his dad passed last month just before he got it running again. I'm going to have to do a bit in the driver's floorboard, too, where the drain plug is. I should have taped up the door gaps or thrown some weatherstripping in there or something. I hate rust. Living in the northeast would probably kill me, or make me hate cars.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2018 14:47
|
|
|
Got this the other day: That, friends and neighbors, is 10 *pounds* of zinc. Why did I buy 10 pounds of zinc, and why is it in my car thread? Well. After almost 40 years, the cad plating on a lot of the bolts in the RX-7 is kaput, at least on the heads, and painted bolts don't hold up exceedingly well. I found this thread on RX7Club, and a bunch of videos on YouTube on zinc plating. Turns out it's super easy - just the reverse of electrolytic rust removal that I wanted to set up anyway. Amazon, etc. were wanting $10 or so for 140mm x 140mm x 0.2mm zinc sheets. This guy on eBay is recycling zinc anodes from boats by meting them down to purify them, and remolding them (in a corn bread mould, apparently.) 10 pounds for $20+$7.05 shipping, and I'll never need more. Then, if I want, I can buy a bottle of blue or yellow chromate from Caswell to harden the zinc plating and add color. This guy's videos were helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UF-lhfpwlMs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICt7Mztnu6A If I can, I'd like to remold one or two of the wedges into bars for ease of use in plating. Gonna plate all the things...
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2018 17:08
|
|
|
No new updates. It was my parent's 50th Anniversary celebration on Saturday, Sunday I spent cleaning the kitchen (and getting rid of a whole bunch of drink containers, coffee mugs, and mismatched storage ware in the kitchen,) and Sunday it rained and I got lazy to boot. I need to go buy a gallon of white vinegar to do some test plating. I feel like this is going to be fun, and I'm going to zinc plate everything.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2018 20:56
|
|
|
Zinc-plating your own bolts is a pretty cool idea. There was some guy on GRM who had a connection who got entire buckets of his fasteners yellow-zinc plated. Really like the idea, and I'd do it if it were cheap. Beautiful new fasteners into rusty old holes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2018 05:32
|
|
|
I don't think it's too expensive to have done, but it's dirt cheap to do it yourself. I've got way more zinc than I will ever use for $25. Realistically, a couple of the 140mm x 140mm x 0.2mm sheets will plate a whole mess of fasteners. I already have a sandblaster, so cleanup is simple. A few bucks for white vinegar and muriatic acid (final clean and etch before plating), a few bucks for washing soda if you use that (I already had that to experiment with electrolytic rust removal) or epsom salts/table salt instead, and a small electronics charger. If I want to get serious, it's $30 or so for the chromating solution from Caswell, in black, yellow, clear (blue), or olive drab, which also increases the corrosion resistance a lot. Right now all I need is the vinegar and muriatic acid. Need to make a note to stop off at the grocery store and Home Depot. edit: it's also good for almost anything steel that can fit in the plating tank. Looking at some of videos, it turns out that copper and nickel plating work almost exactly the same way, so you can do that as well. In fact, if you want to copper plate steel, you have to nickel plate it first, apparently. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Oct 10, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2018 19:08
|
|
|
Were the fasteners you're dipping coated previously? I know some OEMs dip certain things (but doubt most things are) but I wonder if you're going to be introducing the possibility of galvanic corrosion by doing this? I say this not being an expert by any means on this, just something to google if you hadn't considered. I could be way off base.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2018 12:28
|
|
|
I'm bored, and silly me went and bought a rust free car last year. What am I to do for free/cheap?  I might gently caress around with the car audio or something. My car has a modernish sony HU (sony aren't the best, but whatever, BT, aux in and USB), no amp, stocker rear 6" speakers, some 4" splits up from (fusion brand?) one woofer seems blown. There's wiring to the boot for an amp and sub. Going to see if I can rumble through my jumble to find a sub, coax, front amp, and replacement front 4" - or repair or mount them better or something on the cheap/free so I can blast my 80s-1990 tunes just a post to say I'm still reading the thread but I have NFI about zinc plating Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Oct 11, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2018 12:36
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:Were the fasteners you're dipping coated previously? I know some OEMs dip certain things (but doubt most things are) but I wonder if you're going to be introducing the possibility of galvanic corrosion by doing this? Most of the Japanese manufacturers were coating the bolts in some way by this point, usually a yellow zinc, I believe, but they also painted fasteners. The OEM coating has generally dissipated by this time, at least on the heads and exposed bits, and paint lasts exactly until you use a tool on it. I'll be media blasting the remains of any coating off. Usually, zinc is used to reduce galvanic corrosion, by acting as the sacrificial anode, so you may have a point, which is probably another reason to chromate them. I'm thinking either the clear-blue or black. Fo3 posted:I'm bored, and silly me went and bought a rust free car last year. What am I to do for free/cheap? Sony is OK. It's consumer grade, and I've had Sony stuff that was awesome, and some that was crap. Head unit that was in my FC was upteen years old and still worked great, after I replaced the ribbon cable for the flip-around face after a friend gave it to me. Pretty sure my first Pioneer shafted deck (KEH-3232, I think) still works, too. I know the Kenwood shafted changer controller in my Cutlass still does. I'm a fan of free-I-had-it-in-the-stash tunes, at least for beaters and occasional drivers. quote:just a post to say I'm still reading the thread but I have NFI about zinc plating Right on. I'll try to provide something more worth reading soonish. edit: Close on the Pioneer. It's a KE-3232:  The Kenwood in the Cutlass is a KRC-3006, the only CD-changer control deck Kenwood made in the shaft style.  Custom Autosound bought the design and use it in their CD-changer stereos for classic muscle cars, or did. With Bluetooth, and how small the components are for that, CD changers are now silly. I think they have they're own design now. I also have 2 Alpine DIN changer-controller cassette decks, and a changer to go with one of them. Amazing how stuff like that is meh, now. You can get a pretty bang-up head unit for $100-150 now. Name brand, even. If you want to gamble on Dual or other cheapies, it's even less. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 11, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2018 19:41
|
|
|
I fixed my noisemaker by adding a sub. I know the PO did a poo poo job on their install but I never bothered fixing it as I hardly listen to music while driving anymore. But my kid keeps asking for music now so I decided to look into it. I found the cause to be the PO fitted 5.25" speakers where 4" should be. They just used 5.25" splits that fit (this fusion brand speakers seem about 1/2" smaller than a 5.25" speaker should be IMO, so it fits where it has no right to be), using the factory mounting posts made for a 4". The problem was the rubber cone support/surround was pressed hard against the face of the internal 'sealing surface rings' of the kick panel in the OEM location - so the woofer couldn't move right, if at all. So I made up some cardboard spacers to test and refit and now they seem to work better but if I want any type of bass out of them the left speaker rattles a bit, so it's probably stuffed. But anyway, I fixed that rattle issue by fitting a sub so now I can't hear the mid-range rattle up front E: Solution doesn't work well for all music styles or playback volumes unfortunately  But if I can work out a way to make a spacer and mounting post stud extension then there's a future option for better speakers up front I guess.
Fo3 fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Oct 12, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2018 07:41
|
|
|
A sub, even a small one, is almost always going to be better at it's job than full-range speakers trying to do the same. My problem is that once I have a sub, I want *more*! I'm flabbergasted that my 20-year-old JL Audio 10", that I bought used, and sat in my garage fro most of those 20 years, didn't immediately shred the (foam!) suspension and eject the cone across the trunk when I put it in my Crown Vic. It continues to work 2 years on, and I've, er, got more amplifier than the speaker can deal with, and have on occasion, found that limit. Thing is a trooper. Wish I had two of them, though. I don't always need it to shake the earth, but every so often...  Along the same lines, I'm completely astounded by how much bass the 4-1/2" Bravox Kevlar cone/composite frame separates that I bought on clearance from Parts Express kick out. I bought them to fit my Cherokee's stock openings, but transferred them to my Crown Vic, into 6x8 adapters, because they sounded so good, rather than upgrade to 6-1/2" speakers. If I could find the same model Bravox in 6-1/2, I'd be a happy man, but they're largely unknown in the US, as far as I can tell. They're from Brazil. No idea how Parts Express got ahold of them, and they're sold out. I do listen to music in the car. I want decent sound, but I don't have good enough hearing/a quiet enough car to go whole-hog audiophile on it. middle-high consumer-grade stuff is fine for me. Heck, I'm using a Planet Audio amp in the Crown Vic. The Cutlass has 2 Pioneer 12" free-air subs powered by a Carver M2120 amp I bought decades ago from Crutchfield, and a pair of 6x9s powered by an equally ancient Pyramid Pro amp. The factory front speaker location is a single 4x10 in the center of the dash, and I haven't gotten around to putting in either custom kick panels, or cutting up the doors yet, so there's a pair of 3-1/2" 2-way speakers run from the head unit up there. So much for stereo imaging...
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2018 19:02
|
|
|
So, it pretty much rained all weekend, and I had a few other things to do. It actually didn't rain on Sunday until about 5, but I didn't trust the weather enough to uncover the car and start on anything. Man, I need to clear out the garage so I can get this thing inside when needed. Amusingly, it was mid-to-high 70s on Saturday and Sunday until the afternoon, then the cold front rolled in, and the rain. It was 42 this morning (all temperatures are in 'Mercan.)Yay Texas weather. Anyhow, I wanted to try this electroplating stuff, so I did that. Results were encouraging. Supplies: 1 gallon white vinegar 1 gallon distilled water (tap water probably would have been fine.) 1 gallon muriatic acid Zinc anode table salt sugar copper wire 4.8V 200 mA DC power supply clip leads First step in my case was to get some more reasonably-sized anodes. You may recall that I bought 10 pounds of zinc - it was in convenient cornbread wedges: I took the thinner one on the far right and sawed off a couple of strips:  I really need to go retrieve my bandsaw. This took a bit with a hacksaw. And drilled holes for wires:  I have a bunch of old Romex around, so the stripped wire from that proved handy. Vinegar plus a tablespoon of salt, and the two electrodes and we're making   Never mind the shavings on the bottom. I thought it wouldn't hurt to collect the filings from sawing and throw them in to dissolve. It probably won't hurt, but probably doesn't help, either. You wire one anode positive, and one negative (which actually makes it a cathode, of course) and let it run a couple hours to get zinc in solution. It can be done without doing so, but this jump starts the plating. The complete setup:  "Acid" is mostly distilled water with a cup or two of muriatic acid, as a final clean and etch fro the hardware. Distilled water to rinse the acid off. I selected some suitable hardware:  The sacrificial lambs. This is the hardware after media blasting:  The three bolts on the right have been wire-wheeled after blasting, the one on the left and the flat hardware are as-blasted, just to show the difference. I wheeled the remaining bolt before plating, but left the washer and brake line retainer as they were, just to see how much it affected the final finish. I should probably change out the media in my blaster for this - the "black beauty" (coal slag) is a bit too aggressive. Great for rust on cast iron, though, and leaves a hell of an etch. Mount everything on copper wire, hang from my bus   She be chooching right proper! I kept them in about 10 minutes. Rotated them 180 degrees at 3 minutes, and then shifted the bus tube about 45 degrees one way at the next 3 minutes, then the other after a couple minutes, to make sure coverage was decent. Parts right out of the solution:  Not bad. Sort of cast-iron grey, though it tends to go more primer grey when dried. After a quick trip tot he wire wheel:  Brightened up nicely. Next up, the flat stuff:  Out of the first plate:   Wire wheeled:   Note that whatever texture you have, you're going to get after plating. It's pretty thing, so won't fill pits or anything. I did the bolts a second round. After wheeling:  Looking good. And the flat stuff after a second go and wheeling:   OK, a different set of flat hardware. This time I added a tablespoon of sugar to the solution. Some sources claim that reduces crystallization and therefore increases brightness. After media blasting AND wire wheeling:   Fresh out of the bath:   After a trip to the wheel:   After bath #2:   After wheeling again:   Oh, yeah, I like it. Couldn't really see any difference re: the sugar, but the primer grey stuff wheels off easily regardless. I did another set of bolts, and got an interesting result after rinsing them in the water:    I think this may because of residual acid in the rinse. Probably should use a separate rinse for plated parts. It wheeled off OK:   I've got them sitting out to see if they do it again. It's actively raining here, so there should be plenty of moisture in the air. All the hardware I did on Sunday:  For something useful, I did a 5/16" driver bit that was looking a bit manky. I neglected to take a "before picture", but basically the black phosphate that was on it originally gave up years ago, and it was that patina that steel gets when it's not exactly rusty, but it's not clean or polished, plus a little actual surface rust. This one I just hit with the wire wheel, no media blasting. Out of the first plate.  The dark band on the shaft is where the connecting wire/hanger was, and is therefore not plated. That's the color it comes out of the acid dip with. Wire wheeled:  Again, note the bad of non-plated steel. I shifted the hanger wire to the groove for the second dip. Fresh out of dip #2:  And brushed:  Yeah, I'm going to be plating everything I can get my hands on. I'd like to pick up some nickel anodes so I can nickel plate stuff that needs to be really pretty. Interior hardware and such.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2018 19:38
|
|
|
Dammit man that looks great, now I'm going to have to add this step to hardware I take out for a project. I wheel everything but it inevitably gets surface rust again. Nice job.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2018 19:49
|
|
|
shy boy from chess club posted:Dammit man that looks great, now I'm going to have to add this step to hardware I take out for a project. I wheel everything but it inevitably gets surface rust again. Nice job. Thanks. That's exactly why I got interested in it. I could clean up the hardware easily enough, but bare it just gets crappy again, paint would just chip off, black phosphate doesn't last well, and buying new hardware in stainless is hell expensive. I had no idea until I started looking that zinc plating was so easy. And, it scales up! I'm going to go for a gallon tub for larger bits. I'm going to cut a few more anodes out of the block. The solution doesn't go bad - just keep it sealed to keep extra crap out of it - but even if it does, new solution is cheap and easy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2018 21:56
|
|
|
Sorry for the lack of updates. Rain, more rain, then some more rain, and cold. Then you gotta do all the stuff around the house you couldn't do while it was raining. Also, Halloween party, family stuff, helping a friend re-shingle his leaky roof... So didn't really get anything done on the cars this weekend, despite not raining. I did find time to see if I can identify the Weber on the AE86. The guides say that the model and type, etc. will be stamped on the baseplate of the carb. OK, then.  Well, at least it's definitely a Weber  ............welp. So, great. Weber apparently forgot to identify the carb. While under the hood, I took another look with a UV light to see if I could spot any leaks in the AC lines. Nothing there, so it's either in the evap box, or something else is wrong. I didn't have time to hook up the gauges and check pressure, but will, eventually. I did lay hands on some of the parts for both the Corolla and the RX-7 - I got some new 27-gallon storage totes, and consolidated/rearranged parts for both into those tubs. Trying to organize and otherwise clean up the garage a little. For one thing, I need to temporarily move most of the contents of the living room out into the garage to do the floors and fix drywall, then I'd like to put in a MaxJax short lift and work on the car in the garage. I noticed some rust in the pitting of the bolts I plated a while back. The pits must have been deep enough to be "shadowed" and not get any zinc. I can fix that by rigging up a brush plating system, or I may go ahead and build a plating drum so I can just do all the hardware at once, basically. I'll have to take pictures to get everything sorted back to where it goes, I guess. Also need to get a viratory tumbler. Mine disappeared along with a bunch of other tools years ago. I think I still have some of the rubber abrasive media, at least. Getting kind of tired of the AE86. Guess I should finish up the door panels, clean and reinstall the headliner, then sell it. I need a truck.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2018 23:06
|
|
|
Carb should be a 32/35 DGEV. That's what comes in the Redline kits for Toyotas. It's definitely a dual-throat (D for "Doppio"), and electric choke, thus the "E". The "G" means the throttle arm turns counter clockwise ("F" is the mirror image carb). There's some uncertainty on the "V" designation, apparently. All this according to this site. While looking for that, I found this, which explains why no markings. It's a Chinese-made license replica from "Weber North America" AKA Interco, AKA not Weber Europe. Legally, it's genuine, but it's not made by the Weber owned my Magneti Marelli. Ah, well. Anyway, got off my rear end and got something done. I wanted the Corolla's headliner out of the garage. First step: clean it. It's dirty.    It's like the former owner(s) just loved sticking their dirty hands all over the headliner by the doors. Complicating things is that this poo poo is made of mouse fur rather than traditional foam-backed fabric. On the plus side, the backing is a formed plastic, kind of a hard bubble-pack, rather than foam or hardboard/cardboard, so I don't have to worry about water and cleaners damaging it. Much. Tried steam + shop vac to start:   which worked initially, but was a bit slow, less effective as I used it (temp dropping?) and had to scrub a bunch, which tended fuzz and pill the mouse fur. I moved on to using Simple Green and a soft brush to scrub, then sucking it all up with first the shop vac, then the Little Green Clean Machine (small upholstery/carpet cleaner) that I suddenly remembered I had. The LGCM has a smaller more focused nozzle optimized for cleaning, and has a water/cleaner spray built in. I used the sprayer to add water after the initial vacuum to get more of the Simple Green and dirt out. The water in the recovery tank was filthy. Eventually I decided that even the soft brush was too rough on the fuzz, so I just started scrubbing with my fingers. That seemed to work fine.  MUCH better. Now I just need to do the same for the sunroof liner, which will be fun, since I can't figure out how to get it out of the car without removing the sunroof. So I'll have to do it in the car and upside down. Yay! A lot smaller at least. As I recall I'll need to fix some of the trim before it goes back on, too. It's a bit crispy. Actually drove it to work today, and it still runs great, if a bit rich. Still needs an alignment, though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2018 16:52
|
|
|
What’s left before you sell it? (I want this thread to become the Cutlass Ressurection Thread.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2018 18:22
|
|
|
Oh, I guess I'll finish putting the interior back together - have to remanufacture the door panels, the hardboard is wrecked - and build a crash bar and throw the fiberglass JDM style bumper on it. Maybe sand it down a bit and primer it if I feel particularly industrious. Also, the thread will be an RX-7 Ressurrection for quite a while, sorry. Though there may be forays into Cutlass when I get frustrated with the '7. Seriously, I need a shop where I can put two or three projects and work on them round-robin. *USE* that auto-ADD.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2018 18:55
|
|
|
I really, really want to see the car with the bumper on
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2018 22:31
|
|
|
I'll get it on there. Just need to buy some steel square tube, and, ideally, a C25 bottle for my MIG. Edit:  structural WD-40  
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Oct 30, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2018 22:48
|
|
|
Man i wouldn't sell it, just drive the wheels off it. Or at least put it on Auto trader for lol money and drive it till some desperate weaboo with more money than sense comes knocking.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2018 00:37
|
|
|
I have absolutely zero emotional attachment to it. I'm an RX-7 guy. I traded my '90 RX-7 for this, because I figured I could get more money for it than the FC. It's not a GT-S, so to me, it's kind of meh. Now, if I didn't already have It's fun and all, but if I'm going to spend much more money and a bunch of labor on a car, it's going to be my '79 RX-7 that I've had for 25 years. This thing needs to have the front end straightened on a frame rack, needs some panel beating on the left rear quarter (currently hidden by the overfenders) and desperately needs the rattle can paint job sanded off. I mean, it's got some texture to it. I drive it a couple days a week when I can. It';s cool out now, so the AC not working (again) isn't a big problem. Definitely needs that alignment, though. It's on doriftu spec right now, lots of camber and toe out, so it's a bit of a handful on the highway. Juuust a bit darty. The plan was always to fix it and sell it. I figure I can get $3000-3500 out of it easy, given the absolute shitbuckets I've seen on Craigslist. This one will at least be clean, if tired.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2018 19:06
|
|
|
Ah ok i can't argue with that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2018 19:59
|
|
|
What’s in the future for the other four RX-7s?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 06:31
|
|
|
I hope the answer is make one really good one DIY and then send what's left to the spyder to make another good one Darc, even the made in europe weber carbs are some clone made in spain these days, and it's a pain to find a tuner with a stock of jets and tubes so they can swap and test on a dyno anyway. Back in the day when I bothered with them I had a local Italian carb tuner who was good for parts and a bunch of rotary, 4cyl , speedway and other legit racer people offloading original Bologna stuff cheap because they were all migrating to EFI. These days they're kind of past the point of caring any further than "carb makes car run", especially on a 4 banger you want to sell and the next owner might go EFI anyway. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Nov 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 11:47
|
|
|
Dadliest Worrier posted:What’s in the future for the other four RX-7s? Spare parts, mostly, possibly another driver. It’s 3 FBs and one FC, plus the ‘79 I’m working on, for those playing the home game. Fo3 posted:I hope the answer is make one really good one DIY and then send what's left to the spyder to make another good one The made in Spain ones are actually Webers - Magneti Marelli moved manufacturing. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Nov 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 18:14
|
|
|
I cleaned the sunroof liner the other day, just forgot to post. Dirt:  Not as much dirt:  I also cleaned the passenger seat bottom (forgot to take pics before, but it's *noticeably* cleaner) and did a stripe on the seat back just to see the difference. Before:  No major standout stains, but the overall grime is impressive. After:  Needs more. In the pic it's still damp (right side), but definitely cleaner. Even more noticeable now that it's dry. Back seat is going to be a job. Previous owners chucked some parts back there and got it filthy. Bonus vacuum effluent: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 23:34
|
|
|
Huh. Missed one. I needed to clean the welting that hods the headliner to the cutout for the sunroof. It's your standard rubber coated metal, but with matching fabric on it. It was just as dirty as the rest. Seriously, why were their hands all over the inside of the roof? I scrubbed it in the sink with Simple Green. It got cleaner, but I decided to let it soak a bit. Mistake! That softened the glue holding the deteriorating fabric to the welting. I got enough bare spots that I just decided to scrub it all off, then needed to soak it some more to soften the glue enough to scrub it off. More scrubbing than I had intended to do. Did it while waiting for trick-or-treaters, only 2 small groups of which showed up thanks to the pissing rain. Big pile of candy went to work with my wife today. Anyway, it doesn't look terrible:  Definitely looks better than the ratty fabric that was on it, at least. Guess I'll put all that together this weekend, weather permitting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 01:28
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Needs more. In the pic it's still damp (right side), but definitely cleaner. Even more noticeable now that it's dry. You should have seen the transformation my Altima had when I cleaned the seats. They were this weird light brown when I got the car, didn't match the rest of the car at all. Figured they'd been replaced. Then I started seeing ants. Everywhere. A bit over 2 loving hours with a Rug Doctor and they were light gray - the original color. Also figured out why the car was loaded with loving ants - all of the brown was from, what I can only assume, someone setting off a paint shaker with a flat of 2 liters of soda in the car. I could smell Dr Pepper and Coke and Pepsi and all of the generics once I got the seats soaked. They were just soaked through the padding and into the carpet a bit with It's a good thing it was an old enough car that there were no electronics in the seats (drivers seat belt buckle had a switch, that's it - no dual stage air bags or anything) - the Rug Doctor made a huge improvement, but I wound up eventually taking the front seats out and just hosing them down in the driveway until the water coming out of the seats ran clear, vacuuming out what I could with a good wet vac, and letting them sit in the sun. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Nov 2, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 06:59
|
|
|
I need to get after the seats in the Crown Vic. The security officer that used it before my cousin bought it was a dirty nasty ham beast. The top left of the passenger seat and headrest were dark brown and shiny (the seats are a salt-and-pepper tweed) from his nasty, nasty hands resting on it all the time, apparently. I've cleaned all that off (and the steering wheel, armrest, door handle...) long ago, but they still need a good deep cleaning. The foam in the driver's seat is also all f'd up. I've got it massaged into something reasonably comfy, but, man, it was all squished up from fatass when I got it. 'Bought time to do a thorough clean of the interior in the Kia, too, I guess. Sure is annoying being a dirty human.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 14:29
|
|
|
Headliner reinstalled in the Corolla: Not bad. Definitely cleaner than it was. A little better picture of the clean stripe (right-hand side) I made in the passenger seat:   Didn't have time to attack that this weekend, but I will. So dingy! With the headliner back in, I need to address the interior trim. As is usual with old Japanese cars, the ABS is crispy as heck, and several pieces were broken, or broke while removing, not to mention discolored. I've got some ideas on that.  In addition to what's shown, the passenger A-pillar is OK, but the driver's side is in two pieces. First, I reinstalled the 3rd brake light. The lens on it was dull:  So i did a quick polish on it before I plopped it in. Mostly polished, with a bit of the weathered finish left at the left end for contrast:   All polished. Much nicer:   A little leather cleaner/conditioner on the black part and the rubber seal to the window, and I bolted it back in place. I needed to paint the shroud for the CHMSL, since it was discolored, and I had already painted the speaker covers that would be right beside it on the rear deck. The two c-pillar pieces are intact, other than discoloration and dryness on the bits that were exposed in the back window, so I decided to paint the C-pillars at the same time, after cleaning all three pieces with Simple Green, then a specific plastic cleaner for painting/dying. Painted, after proper application of adhesion promoter:  The Rustoleum Plastic blue is a bit more blue (lighter) than the original, but short of custom mixing, this is what I've got. There's a brand of graffiti paint that might have a closer color, but I've not made myself go to an art supply to see. SEM doesn't have a stock color that's better (either *way* too blue, or too gray.) I thought about sanding the dry/scratched areas of the c-pillars, but I would lose the molded-in "leather-grain" texture. Still might be the way to go. I'll see how they look on the car, after they cure for a week or so. I have a Plastex kit, so I'll be fusing the broken pieces back together, and attempting to fill in the missing chunks on the over-the-door piece and the (not pictured) driver's A-pillar, then probably reinforcing them with a thin layer of fiberglass. I really hate old plastics.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2018 20:06
|
|
|
Oh, and I bought a new car cover for the Cutlass. The old one was getting ratty after a year. We'll see how long this one lasts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 19:17
|
|
|
Cold and rainy this past weekend, but I made myself stop playing video games for a bit and got some relatively minor stuff done on the Corolla. Paint was dry on the stuff I painted the previous weekend, so I got to installing that. Here's a good comparison of the original color versus the paint I'm using:  This CHML cover was being held on by one random panel clip. I bought an assortment, and found something more appropriate.  New on the left, old and busted (and incorrect) on the right. Fits in the recess nicely:  Installed:  There was another style in the kit that used stepped pins rather than the plastic screws, but they didn't fit in the recess properly. These will do. New coat hooks (only available in black. I suppose I could have painted them, but they;d just get scratched if used.)  The coat hooks use, of all things, M6 screws with a countersunk head. Well, one does, but I'll get to that in a minute. So I scrounged all the M6 countersunk screws I had:  Goes in there:   With the thickness of the hooks, none of my screws was long enough for that one. Longest was about 15 mm of thread. The Torx ones with the unthreaded bit would have worked if they'd been threaded to the end (20 mm.) Ordered an assortment, just to have them. On the right side, there was a problem:   I don't know if the nut broke off, or there never was one, and just a filler plug on the trim. Either way, I have a solution:  Threaded inserts triumph again! I used an M5 insert on this side because: a) the insert fit in the existing hole without drilling it out, and b) I had long-enough M5 countersunk screws. Rear of the car done:    The bits over the door require some work, as does the driver's A-pillar, which is in two pieces. The passenger side *was* perfect, but started to crack when I tried to remove it, so it will now get painted in the car, with lots of masking, if it manages to get up over 50 degrees (Freedom units) any time soon. Still possible, given Texas. I want to paint the trim around the seat belts:  But, alas, Toyota were dicks:  Couldn't just put a slot in it, could you, you jerks? You can't get the buckle or the shoulder hanger off without removing the lower mount, which is of course stitched in. The slots aren't *quite* big enough. That may get painted in the car as well. All that will have to wait until I get another can of adhesion promoter - the one I had somehow spewed 90% of it's remaining contents all over itself. Valve got stuck or something. It was stuck to the workbench with snot all down the side when I went to use it on the B-pillar piece. I did have just enough for that, at least. I could just use the Rustoleum by itself - it's supposed to be for plastic, with built-in priming (does that really work?) Might be worth a try, just to see. The aforementioned B-pillar in the foreground, with partially-repaired other trim in the back:  The other trim:  Passenger-side over-the-door piece on bottom, was two pieces. Driver's only needed some cracks reinforced:  Driver's A-pillar. Still has a chunk missing:  I'll use the heat-molded putty that the Plastex kit comes with to try and match the grain when I fill the hole. I'd like to reinforce the whole back side with a strip of fiberglass. Likewise, the passenger upper door trim has a piece missing:  And both of the over-door pieces have smaller chunks missing when they are fitted around the B-pillars. Speaking of which, I only have one of those, on the driver's side. Guess I should troll FB/eBay/etc. for a passenger side piece. It also occurs to me that I don't think I have the Oh poo poo handle for the passenger side, either.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 23:09
|
|
|
You're making me consider trying to put an interior with restored trim into a pending 28yr old project car instead of gutting it. Please stop making it look easy and effective.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 02:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 15:20 |
|
|
honda whisperer posted:You're making me consider trying to put an interior with restored trim into a pending 28yr old project car instead of gutting it. This. You make it look so simple. Im starting a similar process on a later corolla, so much sun damage! You've done an amazing job so far, interested to see how you tackle the exterior colour.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 09:43
|
|
