Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

BuffaloChicken: May 18, 2008

Stephenls posted:

Anyone have resources on using real cloth to make capes for minis? I was looking at gunpla and I saw this and I thought "Hm, that's a lot closer to this or this than I could achieve with putty." Looks like you'd need a fine-threaded cloth and some sort of setting agent, preferably not sugar-water (though that would work, it might get eaten by insects).

Not sure what "talent level" you're after, but I did the following by soaking medical gauze in watered-down PVA glue. Twisted and balanced the cloth into the desired billowing shape, then let it dry.

You can't see much in that picture, since the cloth drapes down behind, but it's held up well.

# ? Nov 6, 2018 03:28

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# ? Jun 12, 2024 00:19

queef anxiety: Mar 4, 2009; yeah

BuffaloChicken posted:

Not sure what "talent level" you're after, but I did the following by soaking medical gauze in watered-down PVA glue. Twisted and balanced the cloth into the desired billowing shape, then let it dry.

You can't see much in that picture, since the cloth drapes down behind, but it's held up well.

# ? Nov 6, 2018 04:17

Salynne: Oct 25, 2007

BuffaloChicken posted:

Not sure what "talent level" you're after, but I did the following by soaking medical gauze in watered-down PVA glue. Twisted and balanced the cloth into the desired billowing shape, then let it dry.

You can't see much in that picture, since the cloth drapes down behind, but it's held up well.

Wow that is... DINO-KNIGHT!

# ? Nov 6, 2018 04:24

Aniodia: Feb 23, 2016; Literally who?

queef anxiety posted:

I'm trying to give my chaos chosen a glowy burning look like in the pic below but I'm struggling to get the color right. Thinking maybe a wet blend base coat and some layering on top but idk on paints. Anyone done anything similar?

I haven't but it doesn't seem too hard. You're right in that wet-blending would probably be the way to go, but if you're not that confident in your skills there, you could probably get away with layers of glazing. Basecoat with a very light (almost white) yellow, and work your way down through orange down to cherry red at the coolest points (ends of spikes, sword tips, etc). Hell, you could probably even get away with thinned Fuegan Orange and Carroburg Crimson washes, if you wanna stick with Citadel paints. Just gotta make sure you don't leave tide marks.

In other news, more 10mm freehand, because gently caress transfers.

Close-up, and zoomed out (and cropped).

gently caress hands. This poo poo took me so drat long to do, and even now it still looks a little wonky. There was a little eye symbol (the Tears of Isha, I think?) on the original that I wouldn't be able to replicate without it being a little red blob in the middle, so basic white hand it is.

Cleaned up the banner from the last time, and did some on the shield. Honestly, I probably should've gone a little darker somewhere, because it's hard to see contrast between light grey and cream, but I didn't have any darker cream, and only just found my darker grey as I was cleaning up for the night, because of course I would. :sigh:

I did varnish the shield after I was done, because gently caress having to clean up any accidental paint on that otherwise, so hopefully trying out the darker grey will make it pop a little more from the cream.

# ? Nov 6, 2018 04:56

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

queef anxiety posted:

I'm trying to give my chaos chosen a glowy burning look like in the pic below but I'm struggling to get the color right. Thinking maybe a wet blend base coat and some layering on top but idk on paints. Anyone done anything similar?

I've been doing a bit of OSL recently that should give you the effect you're looking for, and found a nice quick way of doing it. I did a write up here: https://www.goonhammer.com/subdomains/forums/beer-bristles-episode-1-20-minute-osl-baharroth-blue-and-you/

The blue glow took about 20 mins or so after painting the model (the beer I recommend in the article is semi-recommended)

Same on this guy.

For red, I did a Darth Vader a few years back:

In hind sight I'd have used a bit more yellow for the brightest bit as it was too white and made the glow more pink, like I did for the reflections of the lava on this guys base:

And to complete the set here's some green glowing bits:

# ? Nov 6, 2018 09:27

queef anxiety: Mar 4, 2009; yeah

Holy cow those are incredible. Thank you so much for the guide!

# ? Nov 6, 2018 14:54

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

Speaking of glowing, had the day off sick today so I sat down and made a start on Zarbag's Gitz. These 2 are more or less done besides a bit of tidying up and the base rims. The other 7 I'll probably tackle tonight or tomorrow.

# ? Nov 6, 2018 16:44

R0ckfish: Nov 18, 2013

I finished up a Kustom Boosta-Blasta, this was quite a bit of fun to paint.

# ? Nov 6, 2018 17:14

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

Finished the other guys up and tidied up the highlights a bit.

# ? Nov 6, 2018 21:51

Max Wilco: Jan 23, 2012; I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

So I made an order on Miniature Market, and I not only scored a set of Chaos Warriors and a lot of Vallejo Game Color paints, but lucked into a clearance sale for a Blood Angel Tactical Squad box. Currently, I'm working on putting the Chaos Warriors together (which will take some time), but I wanted to ask about a few things.

Up until now, I've been using the GW Mechanicus Grey Primer, and while it works fine, the problem I've had with it is that it makes it difficult to tell if I've got everything (since the plastic itself is grey). I planned on buying another can of spray primer, but I'm torn on what to get. I originally planned on getting black spray for the Chaos Warriors and any future minis, and getting a red spray for the Blood Angels. However, I realize that about $40 the two cans, and so I thought maybe I'd be better off with going with white spray paint instead. I've been wanting to try one of the colored spray paints, since it makes for a nice shortcut for something that has a difficult color to paint, but the use of it seems really limited unless you're doing something in that same base color.

Something that occurred to me after buying the Vallejo paint is that, unlike the GW stuff, it's not divided into types (base, layer, edge, etc.) Does that make any difference when using it, or do you need to do something specific when applying it?

Finally, where do you get transfers from? I've looked on GW, but they only have a couple of sheets. Forgeworld looks like they have a bunch on their site, but that can't be the only place you can get them from, can it?

# ? Nov 7, 2018 06:01

Mugaaz: Mar 1, 2008; WHY IS THERE ALWAYS SOME JUSTICE WARRIOR ON EVERY FORUM

Max Wilco posted:

So I made an order on Miniature Market, and I not only scored a set of Chaos Warriors and a lot of Vallejo Game Color paints, but lucked into a clearance sale for a Blood Angel Tactical Squad box. Currently, I'm working on putting the Chaos Warriors together (which will take some time), but I wanted to ask about a few things.

Up until now, I've been using the GW Mechanicus Grey Primer, and while it works fine, the problem I've had with it is that it makes it difficult to tell if I've got everything (since the plastic itself is grey). I planned on buying another can of spray primer, but I'm torn on what to get. I originally planned on getting black spray for the Chaos Warriors and any future minis, and getting a red spray for the Blood Angels. However, I realize that about $40 the two cans, and so I thought maybe I'd be better off with going with white spray paint instead. I've been wanting to try one of the colored spray paints, since it makes for a nice shortcut for something that has a difficult color to paint, but the use of it seems really limited unless you're doing something in that same base color.

Something that occurred to me after buying the Vallejo paint is that, unlike the GW stuff, it's not divided into types (base, layer, edge, etc.) Does that make any difference when using it, or do you need to do something specific when applying it?

Finally, where do you get transfers from? I've looked on GW, but they only have a couple of sheets. Forgeworld looks like they have a bunch on their site, but that can't be the only place you can get them from, can it?

The base paints are extra opaque, layer and edge less so. The Vallejo paints vary quite a bit in how opaque they are. Some are a borderline glaze, while others are extra thicc.
I recommend sticking with grey primer if you are only going to use one primer.

# ? Nov 7, 2018 06:46

Aniodia: Feb 23, 2016; Literally who?

Max Wilco posted:

So I made an order on Miniature Market, and I not only scored a set of Chaos Warriors and a lot of Vallejo Game Color paints, but lucked into a clearance sale for a Blood Angel Tactical Squad box. Currently, I'm working on putting the Chaos Warriors together (which will take some time), but I wanted to ask about a few things.

Up until now, I've been using the GW Mechanicus Grey Primer, and while it works fine, the problem I've had with it is that it makes it difficult to tell if I've got everything (since the plastic itself is grey). I planned on buying another can of spray primer, but I'm torn on what to get. I originally planned on getting black spray for the Chaos Warriors and any future minis, and getting a red spray for the Blood Angels. However, I realize that about $40 the two cans, and so I thought maybe I'd be better off with going with white spray paint instead. I've been wanting to try one of the colored spray paints, since it makes for a nice shortcut for something that has a difficult color to paint, but the use of it seems really limited unless you're doing something in that same base color.

Well, to be frank, it depends upon whether you're going to be using the spray as just a primer, or if you're actually wanting to have it be the basecoat of the model. Obviously, if you're looking for the latter, you're going to want something with more coverage than if you're just looking for something for the paint to adhere to.

Personally, I use Vallejo's "Light Grey" really almost white primer through an airbrush, but iirc you said that wasn't an option for you. Best I could recommend outside of airbrushing, and from what I remember reading in one of the WIP threads over on /tg/ was actually tested to be one of the best primers, was Rustoleum 2x Primer (not Paint + Primer). Nice thing about that, is it does come in a few different colors, so you can drop like, half the money on a few cans as you would on Citadel spray cans, and still get some color variety. At least over here on the other side of the country, pretty much any walmart that has spray paint has had dipshits "test spray" them (usually on the floor and shelves), so you might be able to get lucky and see how a particular color dries before buying it.

As for other colored primers, you're stepping into a very long debate, and thing is, no one side is objectively correct. Some people swear up and down by black primer, others solely use white, etc. I'd recommend leaning darker if you want to have a darker paint scheme, and/or have a slightly easier time shading (as with a black primer you could write off areas you can't reach with your brush as "shadows"). However, something like yellow is a pain in the rear end to get good coverage to begin with, and dark primers only exacerbate that, so you'd probably want a lighter primer for stuff like that. Lighter primers also help the minis pop more, as you're starting with a brighter canvas, but at the same time you need to be on your shading game a little bit more because any primer showing through will stand out like a sore thumb.

quote:

Something that occurred to me after buying the Vallejo paint is that, unlike the GW stuff, it's not divided into types (base, layer, edge, etc.) Does that make any difference when using it, or do you need to do something specific when applying it?

Using Vallejo over GW doesn't really change a whole lot, assuming you're thinning your paints like you should be. Not only that, there's more than a few guides out there on the internet to convert GW colors to Vallejo colors (though not all of the conversions are a 1:1 match), so you can at least get close to the GW color you're looking for with all the benefits of a dropper bottle. The only exceptions would be the Air series, which come pre-thinned for airbrush use (but can be used with a normal brush without a problem), and the Liquid Metal series, which is alcohol-based, not water-based (and thus needs to be treated completely differently).

quote:

Finally, where do you get transfers from? I've looked on GW, but they only have a couple of sheets. Forgeworld looks like they have a bunch on their site, but that can't be the only place you can get them from, can it?

There is transfer paper you can buy for your printer, and if you're decent enough you can make your own. I'm not, so I do everything freehand (as in my last post above). Sorry, can't really help ya here. :shrug:

# ? Nov 7, 2018 17:31

Booley: Apr 25, 2010; I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE; Grimey Drawer

Max Wilco posted:

Finally, where do you get transfers from? I've looked on GW, but they only have a couple of sheets. Forgeworld looks like they have a bunch on their site, but that can't be the only place you can get them from, can it?

There's a sheet of appropriate transfers in almost every gw box. The fw transfers are for specific chapters that don't have any made by gw. They're also way bigger than gw sheets and printed incredibly well, one of the few things at fw that are actually worth the money.

# ? Nov 7, 2018 17:43

Phi230: Feb 2, 2016; by Fluffdaddy

My cat broke a small piece of antenna on my halftrack - i dont have the missing piece - how can I fix this?

# ? Nov 7, 2018 17:44

Booley: Apr 25, 2010; I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE; Grimey Drawer

Phi230 posted:

My cat broke a small piece of antenna on my halftrack - i dont have the missing piece - how can I fix this?

Drill it out, replace with a paperclip or other wire.

# ? Nov 7, 2018 17:48

long-ass nips Diane: Dec 13, 2010; Breathe.

Phi230 posted:

My cat broke a small piece of antenna on my halftrack - i dont have the missing piece - how can I fix this?

A length of wire of the right size, maybe?

# ? Nov 7, 2018 17:48

Phi230: Feb 2, 2016; by Fluffdaddy

Its kinda not that badly broken - like I could paint the tip black and it would look fine? But is that ok

# ? Nov 7, 2018 18:00

long-ass nips Diane: Dec 13, 2010; Breathe.

Phi230 posted:

Its kinda not that badly broken - like I could paint the tip black and it would look fine? But is that ok

It's your model, anything you want to do with it is ok.

Try painting it black, and if you think it looks ok stick with that, if you think it looks lovely try some wire.

# ? Nov 7, 2018 18:09

Duct Tape: Sep 30, 2004; Huh?

Aniodia posted:

[...] one of the best primers, was Rustoleum 2x Primer (not Paint + Primer).

So that's why I've always been baffled at the Rustoleum recommendations! I tried it a while back and hated it, but I apparently bought the +Paint version.

# ? Nov 7, 2018 18:43

The Moon Monster: Dec 30, 2005

Aniodia posted:

Personally, I use Vallejo's "Light Grey" really almost white

I feel like their "grey" primer is already almost white so having an even lighter grey one seems like madness.

# ? Nov 7, 2018 19:29

Badablack: Apr 17, 2018

There�s a couple Cthulhu looking dudes in the reaper range that look like they could work for genestealer cult. Made a Magus out of one that seems pretty close to the actual guy.

I�d put squid faces on all of them if I could. Give em all the Innsmouth look.

# ? Nov 7, 2018 20:07

Max Wilco: Jan 23, 2012; I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Aniodia posted:

Well, to be frank, it depends upon whether you're going to be using the spray as just a primer, or if you're actually wanting to have it be the basecoat of the model. Obviously, if you're looking for the latter, you're going to want something with more coverage than if you're just looking for something for the paint to adhere to.

Personally, I use Vallejo's "Light Grey" really almost white primer through an airbrush, but iirc you said that wasn't an option for you. Best I could recommend outside of airbrushing, and from what I remember reading in one of the WIP threads over on /tg/ was actually tested to be one of the best primers, was Rustoleum 2x Primer (not Paint + Primer). Nice thing about that, is it does come in a few different colors, so you can drop like, half the money on a few cans as you would on Citadel spray cans, and still get some color variety. At least over here on the other side of the country, pretty much any walmart that has spray paint has had dipshits "test spray" them (usually on the floor and shelves), so you might be able to get lucky and see how a particular color dries before buying it.

As for other colored primers, you're stepping into a very long debate, and thing is, no one side is objectively correct. Some people swear up and down by black primer, others solely use white, etc. I'd recommend leaning darker if you want to have a darker paint scheme, and/or have a slightly easier time shading (as with a black primer you could write off areas you can't reach with your brush as "shadows"). However, something like yellow is a pain in the rear end to get good coverage to begin with, and dark primers only exacerbate that, so you'd probably want a lighter primer for stuff like that. Lighter primers also help the minis pop more, as you're starting with a brighter canvas, but at the same time you need to be on your shading game a little bit more because any primer showing through will stand out like a sore thumb.

I forgot about Rustoleum. I think I was worried about whether it'd be too thick or something, but I'll try and seek out the 2x Primer.

In one of the Miniac videos I watched, he talked about primers, and said something similar to what you said with the shadow "cheat". My thinking was just that you use whichever color best fit with the project or light/dark shade your were aiming for. That's why I went for grey initially; I thought it would work as a nice middle ground, but it makes it hard to tell if I covered all the plastic or not.

For the ones that double as basecoats, my hangup with those is that I've heard that it's still important to paint that same color on by brush, since the spray leaves a different texture. I'd still like to try it, but I'd want to commit to a specific army that I'd want to paint.

Aniodia posted:

Using Vallejo over GW doesn't really change a whole lot, assuming you're thinning your paints like you should be. Not only that, there's more than a few guides out there on the internet to convert GW colors to Vallejo colors (though not all of the conversions are a 1:1 match), so you can at least get close to the GW color you're looking for with all the benefits of a dropper bottle. The only exceptions would be the Air series, which come pre-thinned for airbrush use (but can be used with a normal brush without a problem), and the Liquid Metal series, which is alcohol-based, not water-based (and thus needs to be treated completely differently).

I actually did use a guide to try and match all the Vallejo paints I got to the GW colors. I figured it wouldn't be 1:1 color match, but I don't mind that much.

Aniodia posted:

Using Vallejo over GW doesn't really change a whole lot, assuming you're thinning your paints like you should be. Not only that, there's more than a few guides out there on the internet to convert GW colors to Vallejo colors (though not all of the conversions are a 1:1 match), so you can at least get close to the GW color you're looking for with all the benefits of a dropper bottle. The only exceptions would be the Air series, which come pre-thinned for airbrush use (but can be used with a normal brush without a problem), and the Liquid Metal series, which is alcohol-based, not water-based (and thus needs to be treated completely differently).

There is transfer paper you can buy for your printer, and if you're decent enough you can make your own. I'm not, so I do everything freehand (as in my last post above). Sorry, can't really help ya here.

I was hoping there was way you could print transfers. I'm relatively good at doing stuff in Photoshop (not so much with Adobe Illustrator, which would work better for scaling emblems and such), but failing that, I know there's logo, symbols, etc. online that I could scale and print. I thought about trying to do something like that if I ever came up with a good enough idea for a custom army.

What kind of paper do you use?

Booley posted:

There's a sheet of appropriate transfers in almost every gw box. The fw transfers are for specific chapters that don't have any made by gw. They're also way bigger than gw sheets and printed incredibly well, one of the few things at fw that are actually worth the money.

There might be some Blood Angels transfers in the Tactical Squad box, then. (Haven't opened them yet) The Deathwing Terminators I got came with transfers, even though there didn't seem to be any place for them to be applied.

# ? Nov 8, 2018 04:54

Serenade: Nov 5, 2011; "I should really learn to fucking read"

This is tangentially related to mini painting even though its something big,

I recently came into possession of a 4*4 MDF board, perfect for a Warmachine table. After (or before?) jamming some legs on it, what processing is useful to protect it specifically for wargaming? I assume it won't suffer hard cuts or scrapes, but it is made to be touched, folded up, and fluid will be spilled on it eventually. My current plan is:

Sand a bit, especially the edges. If I find a good rubber edging this matters less.
Prime it.
Paint it. I'm tempted to use Black 2.0, though the matte effect would be lost, sometimes its fun to be a little extra. That paint has been extremely pleasant to work with in my experience and I really want to know what a large object in that color would look like.
Put in faint markings for Warmachine specific stuff. (7" and 10" on two opposite sides; flag locations for seek & destroy, close quarters, and hold the line; center point with 12" circle; outflank boxes; free for all radii; and whatever throw down is? maybe not that one)
Protect it. This is where I don't quite know what I'm doing.
Finally slap rubber edges on, then attach legs if not already.

The mini painter in my head immediately says "just use floor polish, if its strong enough for a floor." But I think this is what varnishes are for? Do I need a special varnish to go on top of acrylic paint? Do I need a special varnish for MDF? Do I seal the whole thing up before screwing in legs?

# ? Nov 8, 2018 16:34

Booley: Apr 25, 2010; I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE; Grimey Drawer

Serenade posted:

This is tangentially related to mini painting even though its something big,

I recently came into possession of a 4*4 MDF board, perfect for a Warmachine table. After (or before?) jamming some legs on it, what processing is useful to protect it specifically for wargaming? I assume it won't suffer hard cuts or scrapes, but it is made to be touched, folded up, and fluid will be spilled on it eventually. My current plan is:

Sand a bit, especially the edges. If I find a good rubber edging this matters less.

Prime it.

Paint it. I'm tempted to use Black 2.0, though the matte effect would be lost, sometimes its fun to be a little extra. That paint has been extremely pleasant to work with in my experience and I really want to know what a large object in that color would look like.

Put in faint markings for Warmachine specific stuff. (7" and 10" on two opposite sides; flag locations for seek & destroy, close quarters, and hold the line; center point with 12" circle; outflank boxes; free for all radii; and whatever throw down is? maybe not that one)

Protect it. This is where I don't quite know what I'm doing.

Finally slap rubber edges on, then attach legs if not already.

The mini painter in my head immediately says "just use floor polish, if its strong enough for a floor." But I think this is what varnishes are for? Do I need a special varnish to go on top of acrylic paint? Do I need a special varnish for MDF? Do I seal the whole thing up before screwing in legs?

You're going to lose all the effect of black 2.0 when you varnish it. That paint works by being extremely matte, any varnish you put on top of it will be glossier.

# ? Nov 8, 2018 16:40

Serenade: Nov 5, 2011; "I should really learn to fucking read"

Booley posted:

You're going to lose all the effect of black 2.0 when you varnish it. That paint works by being extremely matte, any varnish you put on top of it will be glossier.

Yeah, with glossy top coats it'll maybe be darker than a more generic carbon black but costs about the same as an equal amount Golden Carbon Black.

To be honest, it's also for the moment before the final varnish so me and other painterly friends can observe what that much extremely matte paint looks like when applied. But that's not really a good enough reason if it'll compromise the final product.

# ? Nov 8, 2018 17:15

long-ass nips Diane: Dec 13, 2010; Breathe.

Serenade posted:

Yeah, with glossy top coats it'll maybe be darker than a more generic carbon black but costs about the same as an equal amount Golden Carbon Black.

To be honest, it's also for the moment before the final varnish so me and other painterly friends can observe what that much extremely matte paint looks like when applied. But that's not really a good enough reason if it'll compromise the final product.

What if instead of black 2.0, you used...

BLACK THREE POINT OH

https://www.culturehustleusa.com/collections/potions/products/black-3-0-beta-evaluation-batch-blackest-black-acrylic-paint-20ml

(They don't sell it in big enough quantities yet, I just think it's funny there's a black 3.0 now)

# ? Nov 8, 2018 17:33

Inspector_666: Oct 7, 2003; _{benny with the good hair}

long-rear end nips Diane posted:

What if instead of black 2.0, you used...

BLACK THREE POINT OH

https://www.culturehustleusa.com/collections/potions/products/black-3-0-beta-evaluation-batch-blackest-black-acrylic-paint-20ml

(They don't sell it in big enough quantities yet, I just think it's funny there's a black 3.0 now)

The entire Black vX thing is kind of a meta-artistic response to Vantablack being exclusively licensed to a single dude.

# ? Nov 8, 2018 17:37

Serenade: Nov 5, 2011; "I should really learn to fucking read"

I'm not going to pretend I didn't order that as soon as I got the email yesterday. I already do more paint tests than actual painting.

But I also don't want to wait that long to get a table finished.

# ? Nov 8, 2018 17:40

Skails: Feb 24, 2008; Born-In-Space

Put together this step by step for some of the battle damage in doing. It's based on a mortar blast, but could work well as acid corrosion too.

1. Body of scarring laid out in 1:1 base color and brown. I try to keep it irregular.
2.pitting added around main scar in same color, pointing in direction of main scar.

3. Mixed black and glaze medium 1:1 and traced top edges of scarring and pitting. A few more pits added with black+medium.
4. White line added to bottom edge of scarring and pitting.

http://www.goonhammer.com/subdomains/forums/painting-damage-frag-scarring/

# ? Nov 8, 2018 17:55

Cthulu Carl: Apr 16, 2006

Doin' some xposting

Cthulu Carl posted:

Starting to feel burned the gently caress out on painting Guardsmen for my Kill Team, so I decided I'd get a palette cleanser KT for a faction that can have a low model count and just not do up a full roster like I've done with the IG.

I think 'palette cleanser' is an ironic term, though...

# ? Nov 9, 2018 18:12

Indolent Bastard: Oct 26, 2007; I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRopLyN-YCw

An interesting video that reminded me to buy some primer.

# ? Nov 9, 2018 19:28

Opentarget: Mar 17, 2009

Speaking of primer, I was looking at paints and talking to my friend about primers and paint schemes at the hobby shop the other day and some dude chimed in to say that GW Base paints have primer in them so you don't need to prime your models if using GW paints.

I ignored him, but he's not right, is he? I'm mostly curious about the composition of the GW paints. I just figured the Base paints were thicker than the Layer paints so you could have a good, you know, basecoat.

# ? Nov 9, 2018 20:25

Vaporware: May 22, 2004; Still not here yet.

Speaking from ignorance here, but I'm pretty sure you're right. It just has more pigment. But at what point "more pigment" becomes a primer is a mystery to me.

# ? Nov 9, 2018 21:20

Mikey Purp: Sep 30, 2008; I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.

In the case of Vallejo, at least, the primer is a fundamentally different formula from their regular paints. It uses polyurethane or something so that it actually shrinks to the model as it cures.

# ? Nov 9, 2018 21:28