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Opentarget posted:Speaking of primer, I was looking at paints and talking to my friend about primers and paint schemes at the hobby shop the other day and some dude chimed in to say that GW Base paints have primer in them so you don't need to prime your models if using GW paints. The GW base color rattle cans are/have primer, but not the pots. That's a great looking marine condolezza. What chapter is it, or none?
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Nov 10, 2018 02:10
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Skails posted:The GW base color rattle cans are/have primer, but not the pots. Thanks! It's a Blood Raven. I've ordered decal paper to print my own water slide decals, but I'm still waiting for it to arrive, so I'm done for now.
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Nov 10, 2018 02:12
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panascope posted:Is there a good tool or method for cleaning the airbrush needle? Sorry this is so far back, but: I use Hoppe's Number 9 gun oil and an old needle that you're no longer using in the airbrush. The brass tip is almost always the cause of blockages or reduced air pressure for me, and I find dipping an old out-of-comission needle into the gun oil and then poking around the brass tip is basically fool proof. The gun oil is used to clean and lubricate gun rifle barrels, so it's pretty great at Airbrush barrels too.
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Nov 10, 2018 09:25
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And if you don't have any old needles, or want something a bit more robust, there are dedicated nozzle cleaners out there. Just google "airbrush reamer", and there are a ton out there for cheap. They generally look the the below image. Great for getting out dried bits in the nozzles and other fine areas of the airbrush.
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Nov 10, 2018 09:49
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:And if you don't have any old needles, or want something a bit more robust, there are dedicated nozzle cleaners out there. Just google "airbrush reamer", and there are a ton out there for cheap. They generally look the the below image. Great for getting out dried bits in the nozzles and other fine areas of the airbrush. That looks awesome! Thanks for that 
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Nov 10, 2018 10:01
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Ceebees posted:You succeeded extremely on both points. I'd love to know how it was done. The metal is super simple. Paint black, draw thick patterns with a dark metal color, then draw thinner lines on top of the dark metal with a lighter metal. I used Scale 75 Black Metal, Heavy Metal and Speed Metal. The marble starts with a medium light grey. To get the base grey to have random light and dark spots, I thin Vallejo black primer with a lot of water and add in some Vallejo white primer. You don't want to mix it into a solid grey, but just swirl it around so you get a lot different greys ranging from white to black. The primer should still be so thin that you can "lay" different greys onto your marble base and drag them into each other, in a way so you'll end up with tidemarks in different colors on your marble base. Now use a light grey to paint thin lines across the marble. Choose a direction and make all the lines follow that direction, but either roll the brush between your fingers, or grab it so hard that your hand shakes, so the lines jump around a bit. Now highlight parts of the lines with pure white, mostly where the lines join. I like to add a few gold lines as well. Highlight the marble with light grey and white as usual. That should give you a very clean marble, that's somewhere between light and dark grey. I glazed it with a brown ink to make it look a little warmer.
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Nov 10, 2018 14:54
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Hoppe's Number 9 works great for this and won't damage brass or chrome. It shouldn't bother Teflon seals either. The first time I used it to clean out my 105's nozzle i was shocked at the amount of shmutz that came out.
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Nov 10, 2018 15:35
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Excoriators 5th company, brother Athamas. Mostly done, may go back an touch up Excoriator badge.    
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Nov 11, 2018 16:46
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Did a test Gaslands car, converted from a cheap Matchbox scale car I got from the supermarket, some plasticard, and some Ramshackle Games bits. Sort of nice to not have to bother about being too neat about the whole thing, since it's supposed to be Mad Matchbox Max.    There's a magnet under the divot on the roof, and under the skull plate covering the engine. I've got some guns, turrets, and gunners that I'm going to paint up and magnetise. EDIT: That car started out yellow Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Nov 11, 2018 |
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Nov 11, 2018 22:57
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I really like the spiderwebbing and here in the bottom-right you've really reinforced (...heh) that it's ceramic plate not metal which I think is too-often forgotten?
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Nov 12, 2018 02:00
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Cross posting some Tyranid Genestealers I finished up. 
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Nov 12, 2018 02:25
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Duct Tape posted:Cross posting some Tyranid Genestealers I finished up. Give one of them a tongue stud.
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Nov 12, 2018 02:31
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Schadenboner posted:I really like the spiderwebbing and here in the bottom-right you've really reinforced (...heh) that it's ceramic plate not metal which I think is too-often forgotten? Thanks, on that bottom right one I used an image of real ceramic armor that had been shot. I think the bone/ivory base color works well to carry the effect.
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Nov 12, 2018 05:09
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My Gaslands stuff          
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Nov 12, 2018 15:51
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How sensitive is the trigger on an airbrush supposed to be? My Sparmax Max-4 is either no air or all of the air. I have no control at all over the amount of air flowing through it. And yes, I do have the dual-action valve on.
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Nov 12, 2018 16:29
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I have never managed a non-binary airflow. I am sure there is some way to not push it all the way down, but ... maybe I am doing it wrong. If the trigger has 4mm of travel, I am sure it must be possible to only depress it 2mm and get a reduced airflow. I just handle that by messing with The Airbrush Equation.
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Nov 12, 2018 16:43
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DJ Dizzy posted:How sensitive is the trigger on an airbrush supposed to be? My Sparmax Max-4 is either no air or all of the air. I have no control at all over the amount of air flowing through it. And yes, I do have the dual-action valve on. I don't know about the Sparmax, but every airbrush I've used has an all or nothing air trigger, I've seen a few that have a dial to adjust air flow at the brush but I've never seen one that had a trigger that adjusted air flow (pushing down), only paint flow (pulling back).
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Nov 12, 2018 16:44
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Indolent Bastard posted:My Gaslands stuff Well, this is what pushed me into buying the Gaslands rulebook
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Nov 12, 2018 16:50
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DJ Dizzy posted:How sensitive is the trigger on an airbrush supposed to be? My Sparmax Max-4 is either no air or all of the air. I have no control at all over the amount of air flowing through it. And yes, I do have the dual-action valve on. The Sparmax Max 4 comes as a dual action (down for air, back for paint) but it comes with a single action valve. Did you happen to install that?
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Nov 12, 2018 16:54
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As stated in my post, I have the dual-action valve on. The single action valve is a constant airflow.
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Nov 12, 2018 17:02
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My dual-action Sotar 2020 is air on/off only. If you want adjust the airflow do it at the regulator
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Nov 12, 2018 17:08
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Iron Crowned posted:Well, this is what pushed me into buying the Gaslands rulebook Yay! When you get it, if you want any advice on starting out, or have rules questions hit up the Gaslands thread.
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Nov 12, 2018 17:12
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DJ Dizzy posted:As stated in my post, I have the dual-action valve on. The single action valve is a constant airflow. 
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Nov 12, 2018 17:28
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My badger Patriot is dual action and very easy to manage flow. Pressing a little gives a little air, pressing more gets more air.
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Nov 12, 2018 17:49
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I've never been able to manage the trick of partial pressure on the air part of the trigger. I just fiddle with the DPI on the regulator and accept that I'm going to be working at mostly 15 or 30 DPI, and am careful about how much paint I introduce.
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Nov 12, 2018 20:36
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Stephenls posted:I've never been able to manage the trick of partial pressure on the air part of the trigger. I just fiddle with the DPI on the regulator and accept that I'm going to be working at mostly 15 or 30 DPI, and am careful about how much paint I introduce. PSI not DPI
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Nov 12, 2018 22:02
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Booley posted:PSI not DPI Well with an airbrush one kind of determines the other, right?!
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Nov 12, 2018 22:11
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You should really set your airbrush to render at no less than 600 DPI these days, to future-proof your paint jobs.
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Nov 12, 2018 22:16
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Inspector_666 posted:Well with an airbrush one kind of determines the other, right?! Not in any usage I've ever heard. Even if you wanted to try to apply DPI to airbrushing, it's a secondary characteristic rather than an actual adjustable one, so it wouldn't make sense in that context. A regulator adjusts PSI. I think DPI for an airbrush would be more of a measure of how finely the paint atomized, which would be based on PSI and paint thickness. grassy gnoll posted:You should really set your airbrush to render at no less than 600 DPI these days, to future-proof your paint jobs. Renders are at pixels per inch, not dots per inch. DPI only applies to printing.
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Nov 12, 2018 22:18
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Yeah I don't know what I was thinking there.
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Nov 12, 2018 22:26
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Booley posted:Renders are at pixels per inch, not dots per inch. DPI only applies to printing. DPI is used analogously with PPI in a lot of fields. Strictly speaking you're correct, but you can walk into any given archive or web developer's office, express resolution of digital product in terms of DPI and get a cogent response. But come on, man, 
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Nov 12, 2018 22:30
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grassy gnoll posted:But come on, man, This but for me too.
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Nov 12, 2018 22:35
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Aight, thanks for all the replies! Seems I just misunderstood something.
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Nov 12, 2018 22:46
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Caved and got some stuff commissioned for a KT while I keep on trucking with these death guard. God bless typhus corrosion and agrax
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Nov 13, 2018 00:31
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DJ Dizzy posted:Aight, thanks for all the replies! Seems I just misunderstood something. There's definitely something to what you're trying; there are airbrush artists who can half-depress the air button to vary the airflow. But that's Advanced Technique for people who've developed very precise finger control from doing regular airbrush work constantly for years.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:36
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Speaking of airbrushes, maybe y'all can help me. I have every part of the Iwata Workstation in this video. But I bought them all separately, and the packaging I bought the Regulator/Moisture Trap bit in -- though it does seem to be official Iwata-Medea packaging -- did not have the "Part of the Iwata Workstation!" branding on it, and it didn't come with the little metal mounting bracket you use to connect it to the airbrush holder. For lack of that little metal bracket, I can't connect the regulator to the conveniently placed airbrush holder, and so I'm still using the regulator on my compressor, which is awkwardly placed behind my table -- I need to get up any time I want to adjust I've contacted Iwata-Medea about getting that mounting bracket, and they have never replied to me or acknowledged receiving anything I've sent them. Google and eBay searches for variants on "Iwata workstation mounting bracket" don't produce useful results. What do?
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Nov 13, 2018 00:49
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Stephenls posted:Speaking of airbrushes, maybe y'all can help me. Buy this regulator, use either the entire thing or just the bracket. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00171BFKK
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Nov 13, 2018 01:40
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Just chiming in after my previous questions to say that I picked up some windsor and newton flow improver and the mix I tried thats roughly 1/10 is like night and day compared to just using water. Extremely blessed.
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Nov 13, 2018 01:59
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Booley posted:Buy this regulator, use either the entire thing or just the bracket. Ha! Yeah, that looks like it might do it.
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Nov 13, 2018 02:00
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Mr Teatime posted:Just chiming in after my previous questions to say that I picked up some windsor and newton flow improver and the mix I tried thats roughly 1/10 is like night and day compared to just using water. Extremely blessed. It's great stuff.
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Nov 13, 2018 02:01
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