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I'm doing my first build in like 20 years. Can I connect two different size fans (Noctua 12x25 PWM as exhaust and Noctua Redux 80mm PWM as intake) to a Y splitter cable and use the same Mobo header? If so will PWM still work on both or default to one or the other? The 80mm maxes out at 1800 rpm, the 120mm maxes at 2k RPM or 1700 with the low noise adapter installed.
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Nov 8, 2018 13:03
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It'll work but you have to send the same PWM signal to both and you can only get an RPM reading from one.
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Nov 8, 2018 13:18
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Idk what kind of case or build youre doing but 80mm fans arent the most efficient way to move air quietly. If you need the small size then you absolutely picked a great small, relatively quiet fan though. Noctua is a good rear end company imo. Bigger fans = more air moved at lower rpm = less noise. Like i said tho, if its a SFF or unique build then you absolutely made a great choice
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Nov 8, 2018 13:25
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I'm guessing it's the Cougar QBX, relatively common ITX case with an 80mm intake at the front.
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Nov 8, 2018 13:28
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Cool thanks. Yeah it's a Cougar QBX case, mITX build. The case has room for 7 fans which is kind of outrageous...right now the initial plan is Intake: 80mm in front of case GPU fans 2x at bottom of case. Exhaust: 90mm stock case fan rear of case 120mm top of case There's room to throw 2 slim 120s on the floor of the case below the GPU if the built in fans aren't bringing enough air in but I was concerned with turbulence and didn't want to spend the cash if they aren't needed, so I'm going to try it without first. So I'll probably plan to install the 1700 limiter on the 120 and see how that works out. Edit to add: would it make more sense to use the Y adapter for one PWM fan and the 3 pin exhaust fan? Tyro fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Nov 8, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 13:34
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You cannot mix PWM and non-PWM fans on the same cable (unless you switch them all to operate in non-PWM mode). PWM mode is not just an extra wire, it changes what the other wires do. When you split a fan cable, only one fan will send the motherboard the "this is the current fan speed" signal. So if this happens to be the slowest fan, the others will be going a bit unexpectedly fast. If this happens to be the fastest one, the others will be unexpectedly slow. It sort of works out OK unless your fans are extremely different. EssOEss fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Nov 8, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 18:31
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Perfect, thank you. That's what I suspected so I'll just leave the 3-pin on its own, where it is. If I end up installing more intake fans I guess I'll swap the 3-pin to the PSU and have it always on, and hook the other fans up to the mobo where the 3-pin is now with another Y-cable.
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Nov 8, 2018 20:26
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Hi I am reposting this from the build a pc thread as it is more appropriate here. A few weeks back I posted asking about what video card to get to replace my r9 280x for my i5 4690k and 16gb ddr3 1866MHz system for bang for the buck 1440p 144hz gaming. I ended up getting a b stock evga gtx 1080 for $400. I also overclocked my cpu to 4.2 GHz. I am not really seeing a performance increase in games. I've been mainly playing BF1. I am running with everything on low and still regularly dipping below 60 fps. It actually feels a little worse than with the 280x, even with the OC on the CPU. \ I ran the free 3Dmark and got 6287 total with 7516 Graphics score and 3254 CPU score. I also removed the old AMD drivers with DDU in safemode. Does anyone have any insight on what could be going on? I will say that in BF1 the CPU usage is pegged at 100% and GPU usage is quite low (33%)
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Nov 10, 2018 03:34
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:I will say that in BF1 the CPU usage is pegged at 100% and GPU usage is quite low (33%) you have accurately found the culprit amigo. your gpu is writing checks your cpu cant cash (cache? lol) youve probably seen the term cpu bottleneck around. thats what you have. bf1 is pretty harsh on quad cores too. basically the way to 'fix' this is to upgrade your cpu, mobo, and RAM, unless you can grab a 4770k/4790kfor wicked cheap, youll need all 3 new parts tbh. and you probably wont be finding a cheap haswell i7 K you can probably sell all 3 that you have right now and get a decent-ish return on them though E: i actually have the same problem with a PC i have right now. i dont think haswell is even worth messing around with at this point for gaming. Worf fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Nov 10, 2018 |
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Nov 10, 2018 03:41
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Statutory Ape posted:you have accurately found the culprit amigo. your gpu is writing checks your cpu cant cash (cache? lol) This is normal performance? I would just expect the 1080 to perform noticeably better than the 280x, even though it was bottlenecked. I even lowered the fps cap down to 60 with all settings on low and am regularly dropping into the 40s. I see videos like this and would think that I can achieve similar performance. Who knows what that video actually has though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLCNq0OMTJw
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Nov 10, 2018 04:59
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Statutory Ape is right, I recently fell into this problem. Upgraded my GPU but still had performance issues cause of my i5-4670K and ancient rear end DDR3 RAM. had to bite the bullet and shell out on new RAM, a new mobo and a new CPU. I ended up waiting 2 months for Amazon to ship me the i7-8700K at a normal price (£300), though I feel like they probably tried to make my patience run out and cancel the order, cause the price shot up. if I could go back in time, I never would have gotten the idea into my head, especially at this time. it's painful.
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Nov 10, 2018 05:14
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:Hi I am reposting this from the build a pc thread as it is more appropriate here. BF1 is quite CPU heavy in general. You're also running into an issue due to your settings based on a misconception: by playing the game at low details, you're intentionally making the CPU the bottleneck. With high settings, the GPU would eventually struggle to render the info fed to it by the CPU, but the opposite is happening when you drop the settings: the GPU isn't stressed and the CPU can only send so much data to it at a given time. This is why if you were to run an old game at low details and get hundreds of FPS, the CPU is still the bottleneck there: the CPU is working as hard as it can but the GPU doesn't have much to work with at all. I mean you've clearly discovered this on your own with those resource utilization numbers; if you increase graphical details you'll make better use of that GPU but shouldn't see terribly worse performance (you've indicated apparently minimum FPS values of <60 but not maximum or averages.) Note though that your goal of QHD@144 Hz does require a substantial GPU and/or a compromise on settings in general (it's often either, "lower details to hit 144," or "focus on QHD@60.") It just so happens that BF1 is a poor example because of its particular demands. If you were to try other games you'd get a better experience with QHD@144 FPS at medium-high details on that CPU (which isn't terrible or anything in and of itself.)
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Nov 10, 2018 08:39
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:Hi I am reposting this from the build a pc thread as it is more appropriate here. What actual 3dmark test was that? I'd be interested in comparing the numbers with a similar system. Edit: guessing time spy, in which case the numbers aren't weirdly unreasonable HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Nov 10, 2018 |
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Nov 10, 2018 08:56
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I believe it was time spy. Thanks for all of the information everyone. I was trying to see if this is normal behavior and that the GPU was working properly. I played destiny 2 yesterday and it ran great. I have no numbers but it was never a noticeable issue. That was an interesting point about making things worse by keeping low settings. I guess it worked with the 280x because the cpu was not the bottleneck there but is clearly it now? So there might be some combo of settings that will utilize the gpu more with negligible effect on the cpu. It would go up to 80 fps then drop to 40 which was a big contrast. So I capped at 60 to try to smooth things. This is also not bad news since I've had the itch to build anew for a few months. I can just wait for some deals or until it is super frustrating and just buy then.
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Nov 10, 2018 18:12
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:I believe it was time spy. slickdeals.net has some of the better stuff for PC parts at a good price, ie, 16 gb of ddr4 3000 ram for $105
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Nov 10, 2018 21:35
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:That was an interesting point about making things worse by keeping low settings. I guess it worked with the 280x because the cpu was not the bottleneck there but is clearly it now? So there might be some combo of settings that will utilize the gpu more with negligible effect on the cpu. It would go up to 80 fps then drop to 40 which was a big contrast. So I capped at 60 to try to smooth things. I'm not 100% familiar with AMD's GPUs, but I'm sure the 280x is much less powerful than the 1080. In general, modern 3D games heavily leverage the GPU (in terms of producing the framerate) as long as the CPU is fast enough to feed it, which nearly any modern quad-core AMD or Intel CPU is. The GPU has to draw everything you see, but the CPU is responsible for all of the "decision-making" in the background, which is why things that use AI (e.g. open-world games like GTA, many-unit games like RTSs) put a heavier-than-normal load on the CPU (compared to, say, your average FPS like CoD.) Battlefield 1, especially high-player-count multiplayer requires the CPU to monitor everything going on, all the gunfire (imagine 64 players simultaneously firing 600+ RPM machine guns,) explosions, terrain destruction, etc., which is why it has an abnormally high CPU load for an FPS. In BF1, you can try different combinations of detail presets and resolutions (although I'd suggest sticking to the monitor's native resolution and just using the in-game scaler to modify the rendered 3D output) to see what kind of framerate results you get, and settle for something comfortable. If you do run with a framerate limiter you will indeed have a more stable experience because the system won't have to constantly jump between low-load/high-framerate scenes and their inverse.
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Nov 10, 2018 23:07
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I have an evga 1080ti sc black and I was thinking of grabbing an nzxt g12 bracket as the b evga hybrid add on is no longer available. Any recommend aio to use for this? The nzxt one is a bit expensive. I want 140mm or 280mm. This is in an nzxt h200 case. I am not currently interested in doing a cold plate and custom loop. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/6p10vi/i_turned_my_evga_1080_ti_sc_black_edition_into_a/ this is pretty helpful. Looks like I can keep the back plate if I can cut off some of those pin fins? G12 https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g12-white LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Nov 11, 2018 |
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Nov 11, 2018 03:56
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When is a tower too old? I bought a Cooler Master CM Stacker nearly 15 years ago (time flies..) and have been using it every since for my builds. I've been out of the PC hardware game since my last upgrade nearly 9 years ago. Now that my build finally can't run the stuff I want it to, I'm thinking of upgrading. This tower is a heavy sucker, but I have no problem with the size or weight. Has any of the fittings required changed in the last 5-10 years making this unusable? If I can use it's more bucks towards better hardware. I could always upgrade the fans on it as well. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 09:59
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What's the best way to protect and ship a CPU? I've managed to sell my old one and I thought I'd be able to fit it (an i5-4670k) in the packaging of my i7-8700k, but it doesn't fit. I can't think of any other way to ship something this delicate without the seller receiving it and thinking "what the gently caress kind of packing job is this?" First thought was wrap it in kitchen towel lmao, then I thought bubble wrap, but I've honestly got no idea what to do
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Nov 12, 2018 10:11
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MrOnBicycle posted:When is a tower too old? get a Fractal case, they're god drat amazing. and now you've had the benefit of realizing a good case can last upwards of 10 years, you won't shy away from spending a fair amount of money on a solid case. I had my old Fractal case for 5 years, bought one of their newer models recently and they've refined everything and it's fantastic. this'll last me a good long while too.
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Nov 12, 2018 10:12
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Qubee posted:What's the best way to protect and ship a CPU? I've managed to sell my old one and I thought I'd be able to fit it (an i5-4670k) in the packaging of my i7-8700k, but it doesn't fit. I can't think of any other way to ship something this delicate without the seller receiving it and thinking "what the gently caress kind of packing job is this?" Bare CPU? Stop by the local PC parts/repair place and ask if they have one of those little plastic dinguses they come in. Bubble wrap that and shove it in a regular flat rate box.
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Nov 12, 2018 11:08
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MrOnBicycle posted:When is a tower too old? Well things haven't really changed enough to make it unworkable or anything, but otoh case design has advanced tremendously and a good one can be stupid easy to work with. So it's really just a question of how much you care whether it's a slick, convenient design or not. Having said that, I reckon a 15yo case made by Coolermaster might very well be pretty slick even by today's standards.
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Nov 13, 2018 02:42
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just to chirp up and be a filthy shill again, Fractal has a really nice work ethic when it comes to keeping customers happy. I broke one of my case feet during transit, and emailed them asking how much replacement feet cost. I was expecting them to tell me £10 or something ridiculous, but they sent me out a full set of replacement feet free of charge, and IIRC it arrived in about two days from my query. keep in mind I'd owned this case for 3 years at this point, all they asked for was a receipt to show proof of purchase and we were good to go. compare that to a company like AudioTechnica, they make stellar headphones but the leather on my earpads is starting to dissolve, asked them how much replacement earpads cost and I was quoted a ridiculous price. and being able to open up your case and work on it really easily is a breath of fresh air. I remember my old generic case was cramped and awful to work in, things barely fit, cable management was a pain in the rear end, and installing hard drives was frustrating. this one is a breeze to work in, opens up in seconds, and it's sleek without being ostentatious or glaringly Gamer Case LED Bonanza
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Nov 13, 2018 03:06
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I want to murder whoever at Cougar signed off on the specs for the QBX case. I got my case fans, and discovered the mounting holes in the case are not the right size (way too small, the PSU mounting screw appears to fit nicely). So my solution is probably going to be drill/dremel the holes wider in the morning and use the rubber mounts that came with my Noctua fans. Annoying.
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Nov 13, 2018 03:27
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Tyro posted:I want to murder whoever at Cougar signed off on the specs for the QBX case. Real computer building involves drilling extra case holes. That said, metal shavings can destroy electronics so be careful about cleaning them up and/or catching them while you drill.
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Nov 13, 2018 03:50
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Just wish I would have caught it earlier, the drat thing is about 80% assembled, I would have preferred to drill on an empty case. Yeah I am going to be very careful with the dust/shavings.
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Nov 13, 2018 03:58
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Currently doing research on a NAS and everyone seems to be extolling the virtues of a UPS and how it's a must have accessory. I can understand the benefit if I'm home during a black out as it gives me the opportunity to shut down my hardware properly, but what happens if I'm not home? Is the UPS rendered completely pointless or is there still some benefit of having one?
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Nov 13, 2018 12:05
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I am given to understand that UPSes can send signals to computers saying "Yo the power is out shut down now or expect data loss". No idea how it actually works, though - just hearsay.
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Nov 13, 2018 12:12
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EssOEss posted:I am given to understand that UPSes can send signals to computers saying "Yo the power is out shut down now or expect data loss". No idea how it actually works, though - just hearsay. There's a USB cable that plugs into the computer, letting the OS know there's a battery. Then your power settings take over and can shut it down when the battery is low. Windows treats it like a laptop battery for modern versions of windows, but in older versions you'd use the UPS software. For a NAS it depends what OS you're using but make sure it's got a module that's compatible with the UPS you're buying. I know my Cyberpower works with FreeNAS because I looked it up before buying it.
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Nov 13, 2018 12:18
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Looten Plunder posted:Currently doing research on a NAS and everyone seems to be extolling the virtues of a UPS and how it's a must have accessory. I can understand the benefit if I'm home during a black out as it gives me the opportunity to shut down my hardware properly, but what happens if I'm not home? Is the UPS rendered completely pointless or is there still some benefit of having one? I've been looking into this too, as I'm in the same boat. I know Synology NAS' can 'talk' to Synology UPS' via USB - so if there's a power outage you can either have your NAS auto-shut down until mains power comes back ('power lines are being blown down outside and I need to charge my phone and listen to the radio'), or wait until the UPS battery runs low before shutting down ('this is a residential power outage that will probably see power restored in like five minutes max'). I can see the advantage if you're a small business or something, and you're absolutely going to need that reliability? - but for home usage I'm not so sure. My assumption is that, should the power indeed go out, once it comes back the NAS is simply going to go  , 'sfc /scannow', and brush itself off.
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Nov 13, 2018 12:34
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so I could say that I finally figured out what this god damned cube is doing. Get well Lowtax.
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For the relatively low cost of a UPS that’s suitable to run my NAS, it seems like a no-brainer - shuts my unit off gracefully, tells me how many watts I’m using, does power conditioning and surge protection for $120? I’m in. I’ve used one for like eight years, replaced the batteries twice, and it’s kept my NAS up during quick power transients innumerable times.
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Nov 13, 2018 13:49
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Anyone have a recommendation for USB bluetooth adapters (for Windows 10)? There's a *ton* of bottom of the barrel ones but I'd like I guess functional drivers that don't gently caress up my computer, I've had some bad luck with an Orico adapter previously.
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Nov 13, 2018 15:48
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I have 3 different ones from amazon that I got for $10 that work fine. just get something 4 stars+ with a decent amount of reviews
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Nov 13, 2018 16:34
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Spend at least $10-15, anything less and you'll end up tossing it in the garbage in a fit of rage a week or two after buying it.
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Nov 13, 2018 16:54
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Anyone using an adjustable standing desk? Been looking into them off and on for a year now and I think I'm ready to pull the trigger. Strongly leaning towards a https://www.btod.com/vertdesk-v3-gaming in the 72x30 size. Any thoughts?
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Nov 13, 2018 17:04
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Enos Cabell posted:Anyone using an adjustable standing desk? Been looking into them off and on for a year now and I think I'm ready to pull the trigger. Strongly leaning towards a https://www.btod.com/vertdesk-v3-gaming in the 72x30 size. Any thoughts? Here's my thought if you're gonna spend $600+ on a ~gaming~ desk.
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Nov 13, 2018 18:48
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Look dude, I can't just show off my rgb gaming pc masterpiece on some pressboard piece of poo poo from Ikea! If it makes you feel better I linked the wrong one I'd be getting this https://www.btod.com/btod-vertdesk.php cause I don't like the cutouts on the other.
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Nov 13, 2018 19:01
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Enos Cabell posted:Look dude, I can't just show off my rgb gaming pc masterpiece on some pressboard piece of poo poo from Ikea! In all seriousness I think that standing instead of sitting will indeed be better for you, if you get an anti-fatigue mat to stand on (and very good shoes.) I'd just suggest that you work in a standing, nearly stationary position for extended periods of time to make sure you're actually going to like it before spending that money. Also in all seriousness, after you get that desk make sure to make a parody video of that Family Guy clip.
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Nov 13, 2018 19:11
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I've tried a few at work, and I do think I'd definitely get plenty of use out of the standing feature. This will be used as a kind of work bench / desk hybrid, and I wanted something where I wasn't going to have to stand and work all hunched over at 6'3". Mostly I'm concerned with stability at standing height, the ones at work are pretty nice but cost almost twice what this does.
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Nov 13, 2018 19:34
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I have a standing desk provided at work and I like using it some of the time, but I also got an 85cm balance ball to try instead of my chair and have been surprised by how much I like that too for ensuring that I don't slouch even when I do want to sit. Bonus points for being way cheaper than any solution other than 'stack a lot of poo poo on your regular desk'.
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Nov 13, 2018 19:45
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