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No Pics, because my 4 year old was "helping" by sitting in a lawn chair and watching youtube on my phone, but finally got around to replacing the driver's side axle seal on my '01 Expedition. I found the issue a few months ago when I went to replace the rear brakes due to a pretty bad shake when braking. Turns out when the disc is being lubed by gear oil braking performance suffers. Who knew? No major issues, other than having to break the bearing rollers out of the bearings to be able to get a grip with the slide hammer to pull the old bearings out. New ones went in, seals went in, and diff cover went back on with a FelPro gasket instead of RTV, mainly because I have a 750 mile trip to Texas tomorrow and I didn't want to wait for the RTV to cure in 40 degree  weather. While I had the spare out and tires off and space to work I also put on the rear shocks I've had on the shelf for 2 months. The old ones took about 10 minutes to fully decompress once they were out. Original equipment and 165k miles on them, figured they need replacing at this point. Coming out the driveway I realized that I need to replace the front ones just as badly, the rear barely bounces coming off the incline of the driveway onto the street. Front still wobbles back and forth like I just hit a speed bump at 50 mph. Ordered the front shocks today, will get to them next weekend. Still on the todo list: Front Shocks Emmissions system diagnosis to fix the P0457 code that the car keeps throwing, already replaced the gas cap, can't see any issues on the fill neck, but it mainly shows up when its raining, so I'm thinking purge or vent valve has an electrical issue. Wiring harnesses look good. Flush the rear heater core. After the vehicle has been running for a while, it will blow hot for about 20-30 seconds and get cold again. Rear AC works fine, so I don't think its a blend door issue, I already had to replace the front heater core, but given how the rear is a low point in the system, I think it has collected some mud. Replace the dash lights, one of the backlights is burnt out, but its not unusable, yet. Rear wiper occasionally stops working in the rain, probably tied to the fact the rear window gasket lets rain in (not a ton, but enough to pool around the rear door latch). Finally, spark plugs, which I really don't want to do on this car but they're original with 165k miles on them, I'm just nervous because this engine (4.6L Triton) is one of the ones that have issues with spark plugs screaming "I'm FREEEEEEEE!!!!"
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Nov 5, 2018 03:18
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| # ? May 26, 2024 11:24 |
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Yeah, when I did my rear shocks, it made me realize just how bad the front ones were. Back end bounces firmly over bumps, front end wallows like it's drunk. They're hopefully getting done next week. Only bill I have due this week is my phone bill, so I should be able to drop the ~$250 for the front stuff. And the ~$50 for the bay + lift + tool rental. And then an alignment....  Also, I threw the old ones in the trunk. One took about 5 or 10 minutes to decompress. The other still hasn't, and it's been at least a week now. 
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Nov 5, 2018 08:41
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One of the struts from our Kia not only didn't extend by itself, it would retract by itself when held vertical. 170K miles. Certainly explained why it wallowed around a bit on some bumps.
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Nov 5, 2018 19:36
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My 08 4runner had 160k on it when I finally decided to replace the shocks/struts which to my surprise were still stock. It wandered every which way on the highway and it wasn't until about 150k that road bumps started getting really harsh. When I took them out I could easily compress them by hand and they wouldn't rebound.
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Nov 5, 2018 19:53
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fwiw, not all are gas charged (so they won't re-extend on their own)
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Nov 5, 2018 20:43
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Not anymore, no
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Nov 5, 2018 21:52
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If you held the original RR shock from my truck upright and let go of the rod end while holding the tube it would fall freely and bounce a little when it hit the end. It had basically been gutted by a rubbing exhaust pipe that was way hotter than it should've been because of a leaking FPR. I can't remember which of my vehicles it was that had the piston hanging outside the rusted out body though, my bricknose maybe? That or my Malibu.
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Nov 5, 2018 22:10
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 AI Secret Santa is up!
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Nov 6, 2018 14:32
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I started my capri for the first time in weeks after doing every maintenance item possible. I've got a check engine light now and have to inspect a million connectors, but the engine is igniting gasoline in the cylinders when the key turns Beautiful
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Nov 6, 2018 23:30
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Did the clutch delay valve on the E90 today and it was not nearly as easy as the internet would have you believe. My car being an xDrive made it 100% more awkward because the front driveshaft is right where your hands and wrenches need to be, and the fact that it has 85k miles added the rust element. The end of the soft line coming from the master cylinder was rusted enough that I needed two channel locks to take it apart, and I had to sand it in order for it to fit into the hard line connector. The most annoying thing of all was bleeding the lines. The pedal absolutely would not get pressure without the cap being on the reservoir, even with a power bleeder, so that took an extra two hours of frustration and head-scratching. The bonus is that it was an immediate improvement in clutch feel and I no longer have to ride the clutch excessively to get going from a stop. gently caress THIS THING 
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Nov 10, 2018 23:34
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You can just knock the center out of that and put it back in place. Much easier that screwing around with the lines. I have a 66% success rate on bleeding the lines though, that part is pretty lovely.
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Nov 11, 2018 06:08
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What even is the purpose of such a bizarre thing?
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Nov 11, 2018 16:27
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Make it harder to stall the car and/or shock the driveline since you can't dump the clutch.
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Nov 11, 2018 16:36
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It's definitely related to BMW designing a car to make it through the warranty period without breaking expensive parts. The clutch is not covered, but the transmission would be...
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Nov 11, 2018 16:58
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Yeah, it's extra "safety" for the transmission at the price of burning through the clutch faster.
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Nov 11, 2018 17:06
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It’s amazing how much of a difference it made taking that out. It’s like driving a normal car again. I liked it before but it’s definitely nice not having to ride the clutch weirdly off the line.
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Nov 11, 2018 17:51
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Did a full rotor/pads job and discovered the sliding pin in a caliper was seized tightly under the pin boot which in turn caused the brake pad to be constantly applied, pitting the rotor. Toyota reliability.
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Nov 11, 2018 23:08
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oil change currently @ 337k (210k miles ish), 08' cobalt ecotec 2.2 and other than leaking a teeny bit of oil (one notch on the dipstick) it loses virtually nothing between changes woohoo
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Nov 12, 2018 00:52
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Woof Blitzer posted:Did a full rotor/pads job and discovered the sliding pin in a caliper was seized tightly under the pin boot which in turn caused the brake pad to be constantly applied, pitting the rotor. Toyota reliability. Hah... The slides on both sides in the rear of my sequoia are seized, one piston is completely seized. I discovered this replacing the diff. Basically said "interesting," and put it back together. The fronts must be about the same since the pedal goes almost to the floor and it vibrates really bad. It's got 255k miles in the rust belt, so I can't fault it TOO bad.
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Nov 12, 2018 00:55
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Finally got around to replacing my old Ohio plate with fresh and delicious new NC plate. I really enjoy that these plates exist.
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Nov 12, 2018 00:56
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Wait NC has melon plates? Whut. I live here and I've never seen one.
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Nov 12, 2018 01:13
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Minnesota winters can kiss my rear end. Let's see how some fatty snow tires handle it. Not my first choice in wheels but they were on closeout at Tirerack.
TheFonz fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 02:14
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surivdaoreht posted:oil change My last car (06 Saturn Ion Ecotec 2.2) was leaking a decent amount, but at 200k it was losing about 2 quarts between oil changes. When I got it at 60k (miles), it lost about 1 quart between changes. I should mention I changed it every ~9k miles (whenever the change oil message popped up), and it mostly saw Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic. Its replacement (another 06 Ion 2.2) doesn't leak; it's been 8k since I changed it (again, Mobil 1 high mileage), and it's almost down to the add mark. So probably about a quart down. They're solid motors so long as you maintain them and make sure the timing chain doesn't start rattling. The rest of the cars are a pile, but if you get the 2.2/5 speed combo, the drivetrain is kind of like a cockroach. My last one was a pretty good car overall, never had any real issues with it outside of the AC compressor. This one is a goddamned basketcase, but the engine and transmission are in good shape and the AC works. Related, I have Moog front quickstruts on order, along with Moog sway bar end links, and a thermostat. It just got new rear shocks (stupid easy on these cars). Next up will be tracking down the exhaust leak that became slightly audible recently (it's a MN car, so it's probably, uh, everything). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 08:35
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I change the oil every 5000km, conventional. I ignore the percentage - personally. I changed the timing chain tensioner out about a year ago now.. that rattle was driving me crazy Things I can recall doing since owning the car Struts Control arms Three wheel bearings Steering rack Front and rear brakes Sway bar link Balljoint O2 sensor Cat downpipe Manifold Rusted out section of fuel line It has the 5 speed getrag, it chatters when cold but otherwise it still drives mint My only real nagging concern that I've come to ignore is the big holes developing in the rockers lol E; pic  surivdaoreht fucked around with this message at 11:21 on Nov 13, 2018 |
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Nov 13, 2018 11:14
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I finally fixed my tach, and I wish I didn't. A 1,600 idle with the IAC screw set to its lowest setting is no bueno
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Nov 14, 2018 08:49
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Woof Blitzer posted:Did a full rotor/pads job and discovered the sliding pin in a caliper was seized tightly under the pin boot which in turn caused the brake pad to be constantly applied, pitting the rotor. Toyota reliability. chrisgt posted:Hah... The slides on both sides in the rear of my sequoia are seized, one piston is completely seized. I discovered this replacing the diff. Basically said "interesting," and put it back together. The fronts must be about the same since the pedal goes almost to the floor and it vibrates really bad. It's got 255k miles in the rust belt, so I can't fault it TOO bad. You guys do know that's a maintenance item, right? They're supposed to be lightly greased any time you're messing with the brakes, and there's probably a specific maintenance interval like all the chassis lube points. Saying "lol, Toyota reliability" when you don't maintain them per the instructions is disingenuous at best. The Door Frame posted:I finally fixed my tach, and I wish I didn't. A 1,600 idle with the IAC screw set to its lowest setting is no bueno Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak. Playing with a headlight UV coating. One headlight on our Kia is new(er) thanks to an accident, and the other is original. I've sanded and polished the original previously, but of course, it's getting bad again due to no coating, so I bought Sylvania's headlight coating kit off of Amazon. Just for kicks, I thought I'd try it without actually doing any of the prep work. The results are actually pretty impressive. I only coated half of each headlight, then let it dry overnight to see how it came out. This is the original headlight:   This is the newer headlight, which still has the OEM coating, but is starting to deteriorate:   I'm really impressed by how well it worked, especially on the uncoated headlight. Bet it'll look dang nice if I polish them up first.
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Nov 14, 2018 18:16
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^ Personally I'm a big fan of Lamin-X. Didn't click the link. I'd be interested to see how well that stuff holds up.
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Nov 14, 2018 18:25
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Darchangel posted:You guys do know that's a maintenance item, right? They're supposed to be lightly greased any time you're messing with the brakes, and there's probably a specific maintenance interval like all the chassis lube points. Saying "lol, Toyota reliability" when you don't maintain them per the instructions is disingenuous at best. If ANYBODY does this outside of when they're changing pads or otherwise loving with the brakes, they're loving OCD.
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Nov 14, 2018 19:36
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Suburban Dad posted:If ANYBODY does this outside of when they're changing pads or otherwise loving with the brakes, they're loving OCD. I did it when I put the new rotors on, too much effort?
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Nov 14, 2018 19:45
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Suburban Dad posted:If ANYBODY does this outside of when they're changing pads or otherwise loving with the brakes, they're loving OCD. I mean I do this yearly along with swapping out brake fluid. Maybe I'm weird as heck but dang I'm not going to short-change brakes.
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Nov 14, 2018 20:41
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Darchangel posted:You guys do know that's a maintenance item, right? They're supposed to be lightly greased any time you're messing with the brakes, and there's probably a specific maintenance interval like all the chassis lube points. Saying "lol, Toyota reliability" when you don't maintain them per the instructions is disingenuous at best. The capri forums say that it's "normal" for winter. The cars can't warm up enough in winter and can barely stay cool in summer E: At least as "normal" as the 14.7v that runs through the entire electrical system. These cars are a loving mess The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Nov 14, 2018 |
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Nov 14, 2018 21:03
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Rhyno posted:I did it when I put the new rotors on, too much effort? You met criteria 2. KakerMix posted:I mean I do this yearly along with swapping out brake fluid. Maybe I'm weird as heck but dang I'm not going to short-change brakes. Fluid lasts longer than that generally, so yeah probably.
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Nov 14, 2018 21:15
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KakerMix posted:I mean I do this yearly along with swapping out brake fluid. Maybe I'm weird as heck but dang I'm not going to short-change brakes. Even cars with CCM brakes only get their fluid changed every two years
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Nov 14, 2018 21:18
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Geoj posted:^ The Sylvania stuff is supposed to be similar to the original coating, a UV-resistant clearcoat. And, yeah, I'm interested in how well it holds up myself. Rhyno posted:I did it when I put the new rotors on, too much effort? I make sure that there's grease on the pins whenever the calipers have to come off of them, and obviously make sure they move OK when pads are changed. That said, I'm in Texas, where I've honestly only encountered one stuck-on-the-pin caliper - after it chewed through a brake pad one side (not my car. A friend's I was asked to diagnose.)
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Nov 14, 2018 22:16
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If you buy a brake caliper from oreillys anytime soon and it comes with a bracket as the only option readily available, know that you fuckers who warrantied calipers out because you never greased the slide pins and they siezed are 100% the reason this is happening.
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Nov 14, 2018 23:19
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These are non Toyota rear caliper pins with less than one year of driving on em. Those things seize, especially in the rust belt. Blaming the most reliable brand of cars for it is pretty wild. 
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Nov 14, 2018 23:34
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Pulled out the rear interior in the Levin, need to sort out the cluster gently caress of speaker wiring and a rattle from the parcel tray. Some bright spark before me cut chunks out of the parcel tray. Ill now have to make a bracket of some form to get the speakers actually mounted. While putting the grills back onto the tray they decide inch long wood screws would be perfect.   Waiting on delivery of clips to put it all back together. Need to hit the pick n pull to get a few small trim pieces. Also had to strip and ancient alarm out as Ive got no remote for it. Pulled the old amp wiring out too as soneone has got the remote wire extremely toasty. Will re run if and when I put another Sub in.
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Nov 15, 2018 01:18
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Elmnt80 posted:If you buy a brake caliper from oreillys anytime soon and it comes with a bracket as the only option readily available, know that you fuckers who warrantied calipers out because you never greased the slide pins and they siezed are 100% the reason this is happening. Well, I traded a seized one for one that will seize, so I think I'm still in the black for now
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Nov 15, 2018 01:42
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Elmnt80 posted:If you buy a brake caliper from oreillys anytime soon and it comes with a bracket as the only option readily available, know that you fuckers who warrantied calipers out because you never greased the slide pins and they siezed are 100% the reason this is happening. I had to buy the entire tube of impossible to squeeze out ceramic brake lube and I’ll have you know I intend to get my money’s worth greasing every slide pin and door latch I can find.
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Nov 15, 2018 05:51
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| # ? May 26, 2024 11:24 |
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Did you know that vinyl gets real stiff in the cold? When I went to put my soft top up last night, it wouldn't stretch and the latch broke when I was trying to put it up. On a related note, plastic gets super brittle in the cold too, so when I went into my glovebox to get the hardtop mounting stuff today, the handle snapped off in my hand and I can't open my glovebox I've been having fun driving around with the top down in the cold, but it's going to snow tomorrow 
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Nov 15, 2018 06:04
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