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Stephenls posted:There's definitely something to what you're trying; there are airbrush artists who can half-depress the air button to vary the airflow. But that's Advanced Technique for people who've developed very precise finger control from doing regular airbrush work constantly for years. Yeah, I can technically do it on my patriot, but it requires such a delicate touch I can't apply it while actually painting something. Just adjust the pressure on your compressor.
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Nov 13, 2018 02:36
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Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more? 
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Nov 13, 2018 07:24
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Conan the Librarian posted:Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more? They look a bit shiny to me, do they have a clear coat? I would also maybe put a rust-like wash on the weapons, dirty them up a bit.
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Nov 13, 2018 07:52
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Conan the Librarian posted:Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more? Highlight the flesh, shoulders, face, etc. Really the most important part of an Ork. Yellow pants or yellow gun, not both.
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Nov 13, 2018 08:01
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Conan the Librarian posted:Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more? They look good, to expand on what's already been said: 1) To make the flesh pop mix up a highlight shade for the skin, a drop of the yellow you used on the clothes mixed in with the green you used will give you a nice highlight tone, water it down a lot, and then just put a small amount on the tip of the brush and carefully apply it to the raised parts of the flesh. If it's thin enough it'll dry almost transparent allowing you to build up brighter areas with successive layers of the same tint. Practice with the thickness, for speed maybe a bit thicker and less yellow but the transitions will be less subtle. For the Yellow, Cassandora Yellow wash is king, just cover all the yellow with it. For a quick highlight something like Pallid Wych Flesh or VMC works really well on yellow. 2) For the weapons, you could dirty them up or leave them clean depending on the style you're going for. A wash of thinned sepia, or really thinned agrax over the checkerboard would age it a bit, and if you wanted some rustiness to the metals, a wash of the slightly less thinned agrax works well. If you want actual patches of rust, stabbing an area of metal with some brown, and again with some orange (much less on the brush) or spongeing it on works great. Some examples of the skin:  That was Skarsnik Green, wash made with VMC Intermediate Green, Skarsnik, Skarsnik + Flashgitz Yellow  Same but with a much thinner wash. Rusty Metals  Leadbelcher, Agrax wash, Rhinox Hide stippled on, Troll Slayer Orange stippled over in small amounts.
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Nov 13, 2018 08:39
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Conan the Librarian posted:Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more? The above suggestions are all awesome. Your models already look pretty great, and in a big mob, will look even better. My $0.02 if you're looking for something easier and quicker that will pop for tabletop photos is just brighten up the eyes.
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Nov 13, 2018 15:14
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First of the two warbikers in the speed freeks box.  In a separate note, I just cleaned the parts for the dragsta and I officially hate the yellow plastic, it is hard as gently caress to tell if the mold lines are smooth.
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Nov 14, 2018 05:39
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Thanks for the replies everybody. I appreciate the advice. The figures look glossy due to the washes, I'm planning on glossing and spraying matte varnish once I get done with basing. I think I'll have to add a highlight layer to the skin as that is reasonably quick and shows up a lot on the tabletop. I'm not super excited about doing very rusty weapons, but I can add some rusty spots. I tried to do a rust effect on the exhaust pipe of the one chainsword but its pretty small and easy to overlook. I can see about brightening the eyes, its not super easy given their size and deep set location on the figure
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Nov 14, 2018 06:49
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X post from the 30K thread! I just finished some heresy era White Scars for Zone Mortalis      
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Nov 14, 2018 21:58
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Very nice, good work!
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Nov 14, 2018 22:01
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Ghazk posted:X post from the 30K thread! Rad
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Nov 14, 2018 22:10
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The glow effect looks rad as hell on the power sword.
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Nov 14, 2018 22:14
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Looking at those further. I love the color choices on the models, the contrast is great and they look great from both far away and close up. The bases still need work though. I think you need to get some pigments or washes in there to get some types of minor color variation, then it needs another level of drybrush highlighting.
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Nov 14, 2018 22:21
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Been gearing up for a project again after a few months break: A lunar surface test piece. It's meant to be 28mm scale and is 8cm in diameter. Done with gipsum, fine grain concrete and pigment powders.  I tried get somewhat close to the images taken by the Yutu rover:  And some colour mockups for the robot that will go onto it:    I've been waffling a lot but i think the green one would offer the best readability, especially considering that these things will be modular.
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Nov 14, 2018 23:05
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How do you do the color mockups?
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Nov 14, 2018 23:21
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Crosspost timeCthulu Carl posted:Started working on a Plague Marine and... I think I got a good booger green for him.
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Nov 15, 2018 20:43
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Cthulu Carl posted:I think I got a good booger green for him. j/k, it looks good so far!
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Nov 15, 2018 20:51
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Bistromatic posted:Been gearing up for a project again after a few months break: This is extremely good.
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Nov 15, 2018 21:14
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Finished off my heavy cultists, GSC are really fun to paint!
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Nov 15, 2018 21:14
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Those came out really nice! What's the recipe for the weapons? Really great purple as well!
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Nov 15, 2018 23:57
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I have a problem with paint being sort of tacky and coming off really easily when airbrushing it on, including an airbrushed primer. Anyone know how to fix this?
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Nov 16, 2018 00:08
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DJ Dizzy posted:I have a problem with paint being sort of tacky and coming off really easily when airbrushing it on, including an airbrushed primer. Anyone know how to fix this? What are you using to thin your paint?
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Nov 16, 2018 00:54
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Also, what material are the miniatures, and are you washing them first?
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Nov 16, 2018 01:50
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XPOST: So I've been quiet for a while as far as postin' army pictures go, but that's not because I haven't been busy. I've also painted the Gellarpox half of the RT box, a buttload of genestealer cultists, and some other misc stuff. But here is the core of what is going to be expanded out into a full army of illegal conversions:          Rogue Trader Athi Hollzenstein AKA The Immortal God-Empress of Mankind, Ruler of Fifty Worlds AKA The Vile Secessionist Rogue Traders have a reputation for pride. In fact, the average Rogue Trader is so intensely narcissistic that it doesn't even register. Proclaiming yourself the Immortal God Empress of Mankind, declaring independence from the Imperium and outfitting your personal bodyguard of battle servitors and ogryns in the colours of the Custodian Guard... well, it registers. It's kinda up there, actually. Rogue Trader Athi Hollzenstein's expeditions in the Imperium Nihilus allowed her to discover a smaller cousin to the Pharos beacon that served as a backup Astronomicon during the Horus Heresy. Cut off from the Imperium at large but with a local Warp beacon at her disposal, and dealing with a panicking population who needed to know that the Imperium hadn't abandoned them, Hollzenstein thought the only logical step was to declare that she was, in fact, the Emperor of Mankind - and it wasn't like any of these rubes was going to know the difference between a Custodian Guard and a bullgryn she spray-painted gold. At some point an illusion of stability slipped into full on megalomania and Hollzenstein took to re-uniting the Dark Imperium under her own banner - by force if necessary. She's a known lunatic and outright heretic but a lot of local imperial forces kind of consider her the least of the evils currently consuming their half of the galaxy, so most planetary governors or Guard commanders will tacitly play along as much as their consciences/commissars allow if it means some absurdly over-equipped reinforcements riding to the rescue. But a commander of the Imperial forces needs to be extremely adept at the social game to avoid giving offence to the 'Empress' and avoid using her title at the same time. The wrong slip-up will get you challenged to a duel and that is not a fight anyone in the galaxy really wants. Despite looking like a slender waif, Trader Hollzenstein is wearing the GDP of an entire planet in terms of forcefields, archeotech and digital weapons and she can and has killed a Space Marine Chapter Master in single combat (on the tabletop, she counts-as a Custodian Shield-Captain). Rank and file guardsmen sometimes complain that their generals are pampered aristocrats who have never seen a real battlefield. If it means getting the help rather than the lunatic vengeance of someone like the Empress of Mankind then they might have cause to be glad for a courtly education in their leaders.
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Nov 16, 2018 12:36
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DJ Dizzy posted:I have a problem with paint being sort of tacky and coming off really easily when airbrushing it on, including an airbrushed primer. Anyone know how to fix this?
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Nov 16, 2018 13:17
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DJ Dizzy posted:I have a problem with paint being sort of tacky and coming off really easily when airbrushing it on, including an airbrushed primer. Anyone know how to fix this? I think Bucnasti hit the nail on the head. Are you thinning using Flow Improver ... but not Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver? Perhaps an artist acrylic one?
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Nov 16, 2018 15:03
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Material was plastic, and I am using vallejo thinner
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Nov 16, 2018 16:53
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Conan the Librarian posted:Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more? I know there have been some very good points raised already, but Duncan did a speedpaint for the Orks in the Shokkjump Dragsta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70O5vi3IIuc&t=967s You might get a few tips from that as well.
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Nov 16, 2018 20:52
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A buddy from the Minipainting Discord chat has begun making his own miniatures. I've already received the Neuro Hunter from a pre-release and can confirm the quality, and packaging is tip top - And it's a cool rear end model. It was drawn, and then sculpted to his specifications and then he bought the rights to distribute it and found a resin caster that isn't shady as hell and puts out good casts. For his next mini he worked with the artist Ian Miller to come up with a custom drawing. You might know him from the grim dark of the original WH40k Rogue Trader days! His art style is a little on the Blanche side, and you may have mixed him up with John Blanche at one point! Here is the art that was commissioned, and the model that was sculpted:  If you enjoy this art style, you will probably love this mini. There are 30 special editions that will receive a signed lithograph by Ian Miller! He runs Red Piano Miniatures. If you like what you see, hop on over to the site. I am not getting a commission or anything. I can only vouch for him as legit, and the product is good. I want to see MORE of his miniature ideas make it to production because they are very unique. Philthy fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Nov 16, 2018 |
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Nov 16, 2018 21:16
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Is that a model halfway through that gallery of a giant holding his bloody body-length penis? It's too dark to tell.
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Nov 16, 2018 21:33
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looks more like evil earthworm jim to me
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Nov 16, 2018 21:42
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Neuro Hunter honestly reminded me of Doom 2's Arch-vile, so I nabbed it.
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Nov 16, 2018 21:48
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Is that a model halfway through that gallery of a giant holding his bloody body-length penis? It's too dark to tell. Just earthworm jim doing his thing  
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Nov 16, 2018 21:54
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Philthy posted:A buddy from the Minipainting Discord chat has begun making his own miniatures. I've been trying to get into sculpting more too and it's pretty fun except for those times you get so frustrated that you're swearing at a little sausage of putty.
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Nov 16, 2018 21:59
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Is that a model halfway through that gallery of a giant holding his bloody body-length penis? It's too dark to tell. Get your mind out of the gutter. Going by the rear view pic, it could also be his severely prolapsed rear end in a top hat. It's GE Cafe, the mini.
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Nov 16, 2018 22:12
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Avenging Dentist posted:I've been trying to get into sculpting more too and it's pretty fun except for those times you get so frustrated that you're swearing at a little sausage of putty. I've tried simple things. I can do noses and beer mugs. That's it. Anything more complicated the tools I use just never do what I want and I end up rolling sausages for an hour instead.
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Nov 16, 2018 22:17
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I'm concerned that sculpting minis causes brain damage that ruins the way you view sexuality. Probably just a result of following this thread, though. No one talks about all the good turns they saw on the way to work where the blinker use was on point, no one talks about all the weird titdemons and cockgiants they didn't see, etc.
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Nov 16, 2018 22:30
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Philthy posted:I've tried simple things. I can do noses and beer mugs. That's it. Anything more complicated the tools I use just never do what I want and I end up rolling sausages for an hour instead. I'm currently working on version 4 of some long, flowing hair for a model riding a hoverboard and while I've figured out some cool tricks, I spend a lot of days adding a new lock of hair and then the next day saying "NOPE" and ripping it off to start over. The worst is trying to sculpt really thin stuff that needs details on both sides; I haven't figured out a good way to handle that, short of just doing one side extra thin and then doing the other side after it cures, but even that is a huge pain in my rear end.
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Nov 16, 2018 22:37
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'm currently working on version 4 of some long, flowing hair for a model riding a hoverboard and while I've figured out some cool tricks, I spend a lot of days adding a new lock of hair and then the next day saying "NOPE" and ripping it off to start over. The worst is trying to sculpt really thin stuff that needs details on both sides; I haven't figured out a good way to handle that, short of just doing one side extra thin and then doing the other side after it cures, but even that is a huge pain in my rear end. I guess it's a totally different skillset, but Zbrush and 3D printing seem so much more forgiving 
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Nov 16, 2018 23:25
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| # ? May 15, 2024 11:41 |
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After getting side-tracked on classic Warhammer art, I finally remember what I was wanting to ask about. First question was in regard to transfers. I know with Citadel, you use 'Ardcoat and Lahmian Medium to apply and finish a transfer (as shown in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIA-EdSUuFE), but what would you use if you didn't want to go with Citadel stuff? I remember one video I found where they said to use micro set and micro sol. The second question (which somewhat ties into the art subject) was in regards to one of the ideas I had for projects. I've had the idea of doing something with Eldar, since they have such vivid color schemes, especially in some of the art.  Geoff Taylor's Aspect Warriors from 1994 One depiction that I found really striking (and wanted to try and replicate) was from this screen from Rites of War.  However, I'm not sure what mini this is supposed to be. I think it might be the Farseer, but the staff looks like the one the Spiritseers have. (Actually, it might be Eldrad Ulthran, since that the only mini I've seen with the same markings under the eyes). I'm also not sure if it would be possible replicate the colors exactly, since it's a 3D render, and that gives it a different look than you'd get with a painted miniature.
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Nov 17, 2018 07:00
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