|
This one still fits though.
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 04:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 09:07 |
|
|
poo poo POST MALONE posted:This one still fits though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 05:55
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:I hadn’t considered needing time to get a fire up to temperature, and I’m not sure that’s a thing. Certainly my gas range element is instantly at full heat...because it’s a fire? Think of the fire as providing energy at a constant rate, but when the system is cold some of that energy is lost to warming the pipes that the water is flowing through. That energy loss occurs for a non-negligible duration and won't really become unnoticeable for 10+ seconds. In the meantime the water heater is providing cold, steadily-getting-warmer water QuarkJets fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Nov 7, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 09:07
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:i have that issue too, and the plumber said you can get something like a water cycler or something (i forget the term he used) that runs occasionally and pushes the hot water to the edges of your supply It's not gimmicky in larger houses and buildings. In fact there is (or at least used to be) an IBC or IPC code that required water of a certain temperature within x seconds. I saw a lot of DHW circulators being installed when I was still code enforcement. I also saw: H110Hawk posted:my dad did this by plumbing in a instant hot water heater inline with the shower hot tap. Hot shots at point of use were definitely popular and code legal. Sometimes with actual building hot water behind them, sometimes not. But a lot easier and cheaper than creating a circulator loop in a reno.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 15:07
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Hot shots at point of use were definitely popular and code legal. Sometimes with actual building hot water behind them, sometimes not. But a lot easier and cheaper than creating a circulator loop in a reno. There you go! Who knew. He put in an electric instant and used it for the sink plus shower. Changed the time spent waiting for water to get from the garage to their bedroom from minutes to seconds. 3000 Sq ft ranch house - literally laid end to end with one long hallway. Their room was an addition and the bathroom was the furthest away from the garage by linear feet as possible. That addition was all kinds of crappy construction by someone in the past. Yay it's got a 100amp subpanel! Oh the four breakers inside of it are literally 3 spares and a 20amp that opened if you tapped it or if you turned on the TV with all the lights on. This was prior to CFL/LED tvs and lights. Oh the ground is all cowboy ground looped to the neutral or just freeballin it in the metal box. (Literally a green wire hooked to the outlet then left floating. The romex ground didn't penetrate the box.) A lot of drywall died for those sins once he realized the state it was in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 17:32
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:It's also wasteful in that it adds a bunch of surface area for the heat to escape through at all times to use up lots more energy (not as bad if you have modern plastic plumbing instead of copper pipe which is a magnificent heat sink).
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 01:59
|
|
|
Cheesus posted:It felt like my unheated basement temperature dropped 20 degrees after i wrapped all of the hot water pipes in insulation. It'll do that when you block off the radiators.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 04:40
|
|
|
I moved from a house where all the plumbing ran through an unconditioned, but not vented, crawl space to one where the basement was finished. I expected to find that hot water was more instantaneous at the taps but to my dismay they're if anything worse. It is a bigger house with longer runs but still, little disappointing, though the energy use of a circulator seems to wasteful.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 06:16
|
|
|
Elem7 posted:I moved from a house where all the plumbing ran through an unconditioned, but not vented, crawl space to one where the basement was finished. I expected to find that hot water was more instantaneous at the taps but to my dismay they're if anything worse. It is a bigger house with longer runs but still, little disappointing, though the energy use of a circulator seems to wasteful. To your naked body room temp water is still as uncomfortable as ground temp water for a shower.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 06:22
|
|
|
Wait. You guys shower naked? Wtf
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 06:35
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:It'll do that when you block off the radiators. I think it cost maybe $40 in copper pipe insulation covers from Lowes and an afternoon of my time. This year we paid to insulate our knee-wall and re-insulate the attic including adding insulation around the chimney that runs through the middle of the house. The difference has been similarly dramatic between heat retention and how much less the boiler now runs. I can't wait for next summer to see how well it retains the AC temperature.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 14:51
|
|
|
We just got a TacoGenie recirc pump and it is fantastic. I press the start button first thing in the morning and by the time I’m ready for a shower the hot water is at my tap. It was easy to install too, I had an electrician put in an outlet under the counter but I did the plumbing myself.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 15:01
|
|
|
this seems pretty crazy
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 22:32
|
|
|
I'll probably get a tankless when my hot water heater eventually shits itself.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 23:44
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:this seems pretty crazy Just get a rheem that fits in your space they are fine You don't want to get swatted quote:A failing water heater making banging noises was mistaken for an active shooter at Topsail High School
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2018 15:13
|
|
|
Door question. I'm sure I've posted in the past about my cold room in this stupid house that I ignored until it gets cold, which it has. Basically, the majority of the house is built over a basement. There's a side room over a slab, with 70 year old windows , and it isn't connected to HVAC but has its own pass through wall heater/ac. The door from the living room to the cold room is a poorly fitting french door with a gap in the middle and at bottom. This means 5 months out of the year there's a horrible freezing draft unless we want to run the heater nonstop. What's the best way to replace this door? I just used a piece of insulation and plastic sheeting last year whcih worked well but my wife threw a tantrum. Atthis point I just want to put a heavy curtain/drape up and cut the draft with that. She, of course, insists we replace all windows and install a new heater. In lieu of that she wants french doors put in. The interior dimensions are 31" wide and 79-80 tall (there's carpet that could be cut back). Im worried that any interior door we got that fits won't have insulation qualities worth poo poo and it'll still be a horrible cold draft. Is exterior door the way to go, including ripping out the current frame to fit a real door? I wish this stupid room didn't even exist on the house. Every single house in the subdivision has one of these but most are more integrated than ours and it's super frustrating. Tldr my question is how can I put an insulated door that looks good/has windows in an interior doorway of a house, for cheap mastershakeman fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Nov 12, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:21
|
|
|
Is modifying the existing door with weatherstripping not an option? If you put some stripping around the edges of the door, it should fill in the gaps and block drafts and fit more snugly when closed. It's going to be annoying/expensive to get a new door and try to fit it to the existing frame, if you don't rip out the whole opening and plop in a pre-hung door. (I need to do this with my kitchen door - dropped a thing next to it and then felt an icy stream of cold air when I went down to pick it up - bottom few inches of the old weatherstripping doesn't seem to be doing its job anymore.)
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:31
|
|
|
That sounds like you could fix it by just throwing a piece of weatherstripping or a sweep onto the bottom of the existing door. I did this to my water heater closet door to turn it into a sealed combustion area, and it worked great. No draft in either direction.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:35
|
|
|
There's a vertical gap in the middle between the two half doors that's about an inch. Oh and forgot to mention, it's somewhat louvered on the upper half of each door. I guess I could fill the vertical and bottom gaps somehow and then put something on the back of the louvers to block that To make it clear:  Prior owner bought a pair of these for what's apparently decoration and didn't measure. The other pair is into the kitchen and can't even close against each other since that's 2 inches narrower mastershakeman fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Nov 12, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:35
|
|
|
Add some shims and then weatherstripping?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:44
|
|
|
mastershakeman posted:
Swap one door on each for a closer fit on both pairs?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:52
|
|
|
That looks more like a closet than a door. You can get a prehung lit door for under 500. It would solve all of your problems if you can install it. It's a half days work for a contractor so 1-2 days of YouTube fueled work. If you have a friend who is willing to work for beer and has installed a door before its solidly within a day's work. That thing may as well be an open window.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:53
|
|
|
It looks to me like the best option would be to find a single door the proper width of that doorway. To that end, check if you have a ReStore in your area. It's run by Habitat for Humanity and has heavily discounted building supplies. I found a new door there for like $120. At least a third of what that door cost new from a store. Another, more thrifty, solution would be to get some of the garage door rubber weather stripping, and staple half of it onto the edges of both of those doors, so that you have a rubber on rubber seal meeting in the middle when they're closed. This stuff: https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-30-ft-...fYaAnowEALw_wcB
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 00:57
|
|
|
That garage weatherstripping looks perfect for short term. We do have a refurbished type place nearby that we were going to look at doors at but that was going to take a while I'm sure because I'm more concerned about insulation than looks. Heck, if I seal the door well I won't need to buy a bunch of the plastic window stuff I used last year.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 01:08
|
|
|
mastershakeman posted:That garage weatherstripping looks perfect for short term. We do have a refurbished type place nearby that we were going to look at doors at but that was going to take a while I'm sure because I'm more concerned about insulation than looks. Heck, if I seal the door well I won't need to buy a bunch of the plastic window stuff I used last year. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Therma-Tru...81-5-in/3041056 Something like that is what I was thinking of in general. As with many things the labor is the biggest component, but it's well within the realm of something a handyman can bang out.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 01:38
|
|
|
Are those slats on the doors open or just molded to look like slats and are really not open at all? If its the former, weather-stripping the middle gap isn't going to help with drafts; get a new door.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 16:33
|
|
|
Cheesus posted:Are those slats on the doors open or just molded to look like slats and are really not open at all?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 17:29
|
|
|
I had the foundation company come back out to replace some rotten wood they missed the first time and they found even more AND it was hiding what appears to be old termite damage, which was not something I expected. PO 
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2018 22:01
|
|
|
I have had a fairly cursed 6 weeks or so, although nothing was major. First, the toilet in my first floor bathroom started leaking, so I had to replace the wax seal. Luckily, the toilet was above my unfinished portion of the basement, and replacing a wax seal was $10 and a couple hours of time. Then my furnace stopped working, so I called a guy out for that. Bad sensor on my induction motor, not the typical flame sensor. Around the same time, my roof decided to start leaking. I just had a roofer out, and we both believed it was leaking around the plumbing vent penetration, so that got resealed. Just last week, my garbage disposal broke. I was able to replace that myself, so that wasn't too bad either. Of course, me posting this means that when I get home, there will be yet another thing busted. I love home ownership.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2018 23:01
|
|
|
You know I used to think $1,000 was a lot of money but then I bought a house. E: and it's definitely carpenter ant, not termite damage. Which, I guess is better?
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 00:05
|
|
|
Got a new water heater. It's shiny. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 01:02
|
|
|
Nothing quite like getting an air quality monitor to tell you just how drafty your California house is. "Very unhealthy" levels of PM2.5 particulates. gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 02:46
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:Got a new water heater. It's shiny. There are many like it, but this one is mine. Whenever I get stickers that are cool, I put them on my tankless heater. I mean, I'm 35 so I don't really put stickers on stuff but the water heater looks dope.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 02:55
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Nothing quite like getting an air quality monitor to tell you just how drafty your California house is. "Very unhealthy" levels of PM2.5 particulates. gently caress. I've got a Flow AQ monitor, and got the same in SF with the fires and all. Taped an air filter to the front of a box fan and, according to the meter, the particulate levels dropped by half overnight. Janky as poo poo, and but functional?
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 21:00
|
|
|
NeuralSpark posted:I've got a Flow AQ monitor, and got the same in SF with the fires and all. Taped an air filter to the front of a box fan and, according to the meter, the particulate levels dropped by half overnight. Janky as poo poo, and but functional? I have a proper air purifier which can get counts down to single digits if it's allowed to operate in a closed room, but there's no way it can keep up with the drafts in the house as a whole. I'll be picking up some 20x20 furnace filters to strap onto a box fan I have lying around; maybe that'll be able to move enough air to make a dent.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 22:11
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have a proper air purifier which can get counts down to single digits if it's allowed to operate in a closed room, but there's no way it can keep up with the drafts in the house as a whole. I'll be picking up some 20x20 furnace filters to strap onto a box fan I have lying around; maybe that'll be able to move enough air to make a dent. I mean, that's really all a run-of-the-mill air purifier is, when you get down to it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 22:43
|
|
|
Furnace filters usually aren't HEPA rated, so they have to cycle the same air multiple times to make a dent in PM2.5 levels. They're a hell of a lot better than nothing though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2018 23:06
|
|
|
So we have some water seeping into our unfinished basement. I'd like to know what we would need to do to prevent it happening - who should I contact for that? A contractor? Is it better to have some sort of engineer come out and tell us what needs to be done and then ask contractors for their price on that solution?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2018 14:43
|
|
|
We have water seepage in our unfinished basement as well, bad enough in a couple spots that it puddles when it rains and the water table comes up. It's been happening for as long as the house has been standing (over a century) because that's the nature of porous sandstone foundation walls. Sucks if you want to keep anything in the basement and not have it rot/rust. We got a quote (very expensive) by a basement waterproofing outfit to install an interior French drain system to wick water out of the foundation walls and into some sump pumps. No waterproofing or barriers on the stone walls because you absolutely don't want to trap moisture in them. If your house is far enough away from other houses, an exterior drain system is an option (we couldn't do this because of proximity to other houses, making it too dangerous to excavate.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2018 15:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 09:07 |
|
|
Look for a specific basement contractor in your area. Even then, you may need to do some research on your own. I also want a dry basement. Given the house is at the top of a small ridge and the drainage around the house works properly, I called a basement contractor in. I was informed the problem was that the water was coming in from the floor and the only real solution would be to do a French drain around the interior perimeter of the house. Something about that didn't seem quite correct (I was a little suspicious that nothing was said about the slope of ground going down toward the foundation around the house perimeter), so I demurred and observed what was happening when it rained for the rest of the summer and came up with the following: 1. Water coming in from the foundation supporting the poorly installed bulkhead doors. 2. When the previous owner installed decks on the front and back of the house, they never removed the concrete steps for the exterior doors. As a result those steps, like the ground they're on, are pointing toward the house, when we get really heavy rains, the water goes through the spacing between the deck planks, onto the top of the cement steps, and into the sill.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2018 16:12
|
|