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It's important to note the finished product needs to be completely light tight as well. I think this is pretty doable with fdm based on my experience but I'd have to dig out my old 4x5 film holders and measure some to be sure. Are you just planning on B&W photo chemistry with the super 8 development reel? I'm not super sure if/what plastics will be best there but the range is probably more forgiving than color chemistry.
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Nov 13, 2018 03:08
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Color development chemistry is performed at ~102F which doesn't seem too extreme. B&W is calibrated around 68F. A development reel would be exposed to a wide pH range however, especially during reversal processing, but my naive intuition is that most plastics would be able to withstand that. The sheet film holder is only used to hold the film in the camera during exposure so no worries about temperature or chemical stability there. Light tightness can be improved by adding post-printing light seals (foam, felt, or yarn) with that spacing allowance possibly taken into account during modeling. The darkslide would presumably be some sort of black matte cardboard. My 8x10 film is limited to othrochromatic film that can be tray developed by safelight, but speaking of 4x5 gear, a scaled up version of a 4x5 development holder for 8x10 (the red thing on the right) is also interesting to consider. They're already supplied in 4 or so discrete sections that mount on a central spindle...but sheet hangers are probably an easier option for that.  Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Nov 13, 2018 03:39
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Father O'Blivion posted:On a slightly related note, I had some correspondence with the 3d printing service at my local university a few months ago about having an 8x10 sheet film holder from thingiverse printed (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2560363) but they said it was beyond their capabilities. The professional versions aren't cheap (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/61078-REG/Toyo_View_180_908_8x10_Sheet_Film_Holder.html) but may look into what it would take to have one constructed from wood. https://www.keh.com/shop/large-format-8x10-lisco-wood-metal-719054.html?rrec=true https://www.keh.com/shop/catalogsearch/result/?q=8x10+holder On the flip side though if you ever need lens boards 3d printing is great for that. Be sure to use black plastic!
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Nov 13, 2018 11:57
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Father O'Blivion posted:Color development chemistry is performed at ~102F which doesn't seem too extreme. B&W is calibrated around 68F. A development reel would be exposed to a wide pH range however, especially during reversal processing, but my naive intuition is that most plastics would be able to withstand that. Whats the approximate diameter on the spiral lower holder? I got a good look at it here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W103Tc_6FRk&t=208s , but as mentioned above I don't think it'll print on my Prusa. But I could get it drawn and you could try one of the online printing shops or a job shop. Edit, I got an idea. An external diameter would still be helpful though. Yooper fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Nov 13, 2018 |
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Nov 13, 2018 12:37
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Yooper posted:Edit, I got an idea. An external diameter would still be helpful though. Google sez: quote:The tank consists of: The pitch of the spiral can be deduced from the reel diameter and film length but I'm unable to do so at the moment.
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Nov 13, 2018 15:53
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Father O'Blivion posted:Google sez: Right. Got something that'll work. Lemme polish it up. It'll be a center hub with 3 or 4 outer spiral sections. That way a regular (Prusa sized) printer can make it work. I'll probably do some nesting spacers for your different widths. I'm not a fan of printing threads so I'm thinking a press in stainless fastener. What are the chemicals it needs to be exposed to? 
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Nov 13, 2018 16:14
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Father O'Blivion posted:The pitch of the spiral can be deduced from the reel diameter and film length but I'm unable to do so at the moment. I think the formula from here would work: Length of spiral = 3.14 * Number of rings * (Outer diameter + Inner diameter) / 2 After getting number of rings, difference in diameters divided by the number of rings would be the pitch
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Nov 13, 2018 16:21
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Yooper posted:What are the chemicals Film developers - dissolved Na/K salts (sulfites, hydroxides, halides), organics (para-aminophenol, metol, hydroquinone, phenidone), pH ~9.5, 68-102°F Reversal bleach - dissolved K salts (permanganate, dichromate, halides), pH ~2.5, 68-102°F Blix/fixer - dissolved NH4/Na/Ferric salts (thiosulfates, EDTA, halides), pH ~5.5, 68-102°F All water-based. My local uni has a Unimaker 3 Extended but they only print in PLA & PVA... which would probably eaten alive by the above cocktails. Maybe the makerspace has something comparable. Father O'Blivion fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Nov 13, 2018 |
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Nov 13, 2018 18:45
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Nylon should handle it, right?
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Nov 14, 2018 07:33
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Nylon should handle it, right? I'm not sure if nylon is capable of the precision, not sure just I've never seen a nylon print that looked "clean"
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Nov 14, 2018 07:40
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PET would be my first choice, actually. If you can store the chemicals in a soda bottle (you can), you can use PET parts. Nylons can you do funny things when exposed to acids, and I know that not all the processing chemicals are pH-neutral. Nylon is probably fine, but so is PET, and the latter is much cheaper and easier to print than nylon too, so...
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Nov 14, 2018 07:42
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Father O'Blivion posted:My local uni has a Unimaker 3 Extended but they only print in PLA & PVA... which would probably eaten alive by the above cocktails. Maybe the makerspace has something comparable. PLA is, annoyingly, more resistant than you’d expect.
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Nov 14, 2018 08:13
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Printed myself a Codsworth: Had some layer seperation at the top of the body but other than that im pretty happy. I upped the temperature a bit and that seemed to do the trick so the rest printed without separating. Some light sanding here and there to clean it up a bit might be nice but its just standing on a shelf at work so it's not gonna get looked at to closely anyway.
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Nov 14, 2018 10:57
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Nice! Recently I have spent a shitload of time converting my Raise3D platform to spring adjustable and fiddling with it. Every printer should have mesh leveling in this day and age imo, especially large build platform printers.
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Nov 14, 2018 17:31
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Hi @foosel! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qytk8_JpYyQ
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Nov 14, 2018 19:47
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That's a good interview with foosel. Octoprint is the first thing I've backed on Patreon and the stickers are nice! On a different note, I've been getting messages from 3.1+ versions of Cura that my settings were corrupt somehow, but it kept working normally so I ignored it. I changed PCs recently and decided for my new install I'd duplicate my settings without exporting them to try to get rid of the message. After setting it all up, at first my printer would heat up, head to 0,0,0 and sit there. The Octoprint terminal showed an error with a line of gcode and I realized that my gcode file had a bad value in it. Cura wasn't turning its {travel_speed} variable into a value that the printer understood. In fact, Cura changed that variable's name to {speed_travel} at some point which I only learned by searching for that error. Because I had setup Cura as a new install, I chose their defaults for the Wanhao Duplicator i3 which includes {travel_speed} in both the beginning and ending gcode blocks. My previous install was setup with gcode blocks that were setup in version 1 and brought along through upgrades to 3.51 that included integers instead of variables for those lines. So, if you install Cura fresh you may run into this issue immediately in some of the beginning and ending gcode blocks.
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Nov 14, 2018 21:06
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I made a video about how to not screw up your MK3 build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF9EUH-Yfzo
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Nov 14, 2018 23:40
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Hi insta! Hi everyone!  Glad this is finally online, was an interesting experience.
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Nov 15, 2018 07:56
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Your work has had such a huge and positive impact  it boggles my mind that at its core it is still pretty much a one-person show.
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Nov 15, 2018 22:04
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Was cool to see you in a weird irl interview way Great work
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Nov 16, 2018 15:35
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The nice thing about FDM is it allows for a Schleemless process. Truly the future.
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Nov 18, 2018 15:58
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I'm struggling a little with retraction ,I think I need to up retraction speed a little but this was a bit of a retraction hell anyway
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Nov 18, 2018 21:38
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I have a monoprice maker select v2. The bed is consistently in need of leveling, which seems common so far as I can tell. I bought a piece of glass to put on the bed. I got the one Amazon said, but it’s smaller than my bed. Is that a problem?
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Nov 20, 2018 01:11
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Bean posted:I have a monoprice maker select v2. The bed is consistently in need of leveling, which seems common so far as I can tell. I bought a piece of glass to put on the bed. I got the one Amazon said, but it’s smaller than my bed. Is that a problem? Not really unless you attempt to print onto the part of the bed where there's no glass. I've got the same printer with glass on the bed and I printed these out to hold the glass: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796685 Installing them involved removing the bed corner screws and nuts and springs and putting them back on with those brackets in place. When doing that I also installed these cups for the springs so they don't directly push on the nuts and it seems to have made it so that I now very rarely have to re-level my bed (usually only after removing the glass for cleaning and picking up the silicone heat pads that I have between the glass and the bed): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1374667 There's another version of the corner holders that don't require as much hardware but due to being on the bed they should probably not be printed in PLA (I did my corner guys in ABS even though it may not be necessary): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2303045 Even if you go with binder clips to hold the glass down it's likely worthwhile to do the spring cups as in my experience it keeps the bed from needing as much . I did have to change where my z axis limit switch was located after putting the glass on but there's 3 holes on the tower to adjust it.
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Nov 20, 2018 02:23
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Just had a real  momentI needed a shaving brush holder, I downloaded one and it was poop, I spent an evening designing one and printing it and it was perfect, like stable , perfect fit for the brush and everything. First try too Don't dox me pls https://www.instagram.com/p/BqXKzjOF2Nf/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=10tod9vc682a5 The stars aligned for this ultimately banal thing
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Nov 20, 2018 08:15
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What is the recommended way to make sure your prints don't detach from glas? I feel like it sticks pretty well, but there always comes a point where the nozzle rips the print off at some point.
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Nov 20, 2018 11:34
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SEKCobra posted:What is the recommended way to make sure your prints don't detach from glas? I feel like it sticks pretty well, but there always comes a point where the nozzle rips the print off at some point. Aquanet Extra Hold Unscented hair spray & proper bed tramming.
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Nov 20, 2018 12:08
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SEKCobra posted:What is the recommended way to make sure your prints don't detach from glas? I feel like it sticks pretty well, but there always comes a point where the nozzle rips the print off at some point. Hairspray sure, but if the nozzle is pulling it off your Z steps must be off, or you only have one Z motor and the leadscrew isn't strong enough to hold the weight of your hotend.
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Nov 20, 2018 13:14
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Jestery posted:Just had a real Did it need a bunch of support material for the upper prongs?
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Nov 20, 2018 17:42
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mewse posted:Did it need a bunch of support material for the upper prongs? It was printed on its back and required no support material
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Nov 20, 2018 20:32
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I missed the earlier cookie cutter talk. I made a bunch earlier this year and used a food safe resin to coat them, really helps when cleaning them. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CVYNQ4U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't have a picture of one but here is the same resin on coasters I made. https://imgur.com/oFDVvdi
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Nov 20, 2018 21:08
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Jestery posted:It was printed on its back and required no support material Dope
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Nov 20, 2018 21:09
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Jestery posted:Just had a real I designed and printed a remote holder for my daughters LED strip remote and some sound deflectors for my Kindle Fire HD 8. Its a loving great feeling when you print something you designed and it just works.
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Nov 21, 2018 09:43
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Shai-Hulud posted:I designed and printed a remote holder for my daughters LED strip remote and some sound deflectors for my Kindle Fire HD 8. Its a loving great feeling when you print something you designed and it just works. Just like " Yep this stl is getting saved"
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Nov 21, 2018 13:50
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r.y.f.s.o. posted:The nice thing about FDM is it allows for a Schleemless process. Truly the future.
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Nov 21, 2018 14:52
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Yooper posted:Right. Got something that'll work. Lemme polish it up. It'll be a center hub with 3 or 4 outer spiral sections. That way a regular (Prusa sized) printer can make it work. I'll probably do some nesting spacers for your different widths. I'm not a fan of printing threads so I'm thinking a press in stainless fastener. Is this still a thing or did the design fall through? I'd like to produce some prototypes, even in PLA. Thanks for the modeling and everyone giving input. It'd be nice to see this tech create something other than knickknacks and dingle-berries.
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Nov 22, 2018 04:14
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Father O'Blivion posted:Is this still a thing or did the design fall through? I'd like to produce some prototypes, even in PLA. Thanks for the modeling and everyone giving input. Still a thing! Work got busy. I'm hoping to have the model done over the break. I need to break it into printable pieces so that a normal printer can handle it. 
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Nov 22, 2018 04:23
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loving Linux... i tried to install the Bed level visualizer plugin for Octoprint and it needs to install something called numpy and it can't get it loving installed and it dumps pages and pages of text back at me when it fails. Usually i just google some part of the error string and copy the solution some linux wizard came up with but with this I don't even know which part of that text dump to google! Guess im skipping that plugin!
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Nov 22, 2018 19:43
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My friend's old car has an unobtainium plastic piece that's falling apart so while he's in the area visiting family we've spent some time hanging out and I've been modeling a replacement. You learn a lot more with a project and I now feel better at Fusion 360's revolve, selection modes, etc. It's hard to tell what the original was made out of in 1995 but I'm guessing ABS since it's in the engine bay, but we're gonna make it in ABS and Nylon and probably try the nylon first and see if it holds up. Bonus, it looks a little bit like a Xenomorph
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Nov 22, 2018 20:25
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What is that piece? Some kind of wire clip?
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Nov 22, 2018 20:35
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