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gamera009 posted:Too bad you guys don’t climb closer to Boulder. But if you want to hit the canyon, I’m happy to guide. I'm headed to Boulder in March to do some bouldering. How likely is it to snow, and even if it does, how much will that affect bouldering options?
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Nov 20, 2018 09:18
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I'm sitting here LMFAO pretty hard that Sudbury has a better, larger, and more modern climbing gym than the gross cramped places we've got in Vancouver. Training problems solved. Thanks for the offer though Toronto goon, I'll hit you up if I come south.
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Nov 20, 2018 15:24
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the bouldering gyms in/around vancouver are really good. not sure about other kinds of climbing though
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Nov 20, 2018 19:46
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I was astounded how greasy everything felt with the humidity at The Hive. And it reminded me how lucky I am to have a super passionate setting team where I train. Good setting, a bit of a training area, and clean air make such a difference but it's rare to find a gym that hits 3/3.
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Nov 20, 2018 19:52
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Our gym is so dusty I can see the chalk in the air even on a non-busy day. I wish they'd do a deep clean or even bother to vacuum.
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Nov 20, 2018 19:57
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cheese eats mouse posted:Our gym is so dusty I can see the chalk in the air even on a non-busy day. I wish they'd do a deep clean or even bother to vacuum. i exhaled sharply resting on a slabby route the other day with my face pressed into the wall and it was like someone set off a chalk bomb
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Nov 20, 2018 20:08
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Verviticus posted:the bouldering gyms in/around vancouver are really good. not sure about other kinds of climbing though Hive North Shore is great, everything else is worn out, overcrowded, and reeks like feet. The gym in downtown Victoria is absurdly better than anything in Vancouver, like wow.
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Nov 20, 2018 20:22
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there’s a new gym in clover dale but yeah the hive on industrial sucks rear end north shore hive rules edit: one thing that they do there and downtown (which is way nicer) that i see a lot of places not do is colour code the climbs instead of using tape Verviticus fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Nov 21, 2018 |
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Nov 20, 2018 22:32
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interrodactyl posted:I'm headed to Boulder in March to do some bouldering. How likely is it to snow, and even if it does, how much will that affect bouldering options? It could be 70 or it could snow. You could be fine or have a hell of a time. Nothing in the Alpine will be in. Shaded areas may have lots of snow.
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Nov 21, 2018 01:13
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I'm going out to Red Rock Canyon in a few weeks with a buddy of mine who really only has a year or so of outdoor climbing under his belt. He's good on sport lead into the 10s, and can follow on trad. He wants to get on some big mulitpitch routes, but I'm wary of the short days and time loss to gear management every pitch. I'm going to run him up solar slab to get a sense of timing, and birdland if that goes well. Any other suggestions? I did epinephrine with a skilled buddy last year and it took us all day, so I'm likely to skip that one this time unless we're unexpectedly flying up stuff. (And even then I'd start it a few hours before sunrise.)
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Nov 21, 2018 01:26
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Anyone that’s owned Scarpa Instinct VS tell me how much they stretch? Ordered a half and a whole size down from the EU 40 I got today. Liked the fit but there was some dead space above my toes and a lot on the heel. Also waiting on some Boostics and Vapors. Shipping has ground down to terribly slow now that shopping season is in swing.
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Nov 21, 2018 02:33
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Well, I “climbed” my first “10c” at the gym tonight, completely misread the crux, burned out and popped off before I could right it. Got back on the wall and tried it again from the other direction and eventually muddled through it to the top, but was way too pumped. Really want to go back and do it cleanly now, it felt pretty achievable now that I have a better idea of how to move through the crux. Have to wait with the holidays though unfortunately.
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Nov 21, 2018 04:33
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cheese eats mouse posted:Anyone that’s owned Scarpa Instinct VS tell me how much they stretch? Ordered a half and a whole size down from the EU 40 I got today. Liked the fit but there was some dead space above my toes and a lot on the heel. I've been using Vapors for a while and love them. Instincts I could never get the right fit on. Even with the Vapors (going down half a size from street shoes) there's a bit of room in the heel for me, leading to shoe farts. Other than that I love em. Instincts had a bit too much rubber on the toe for my liking but might be different for you
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Nov 21, 2018 04:38
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cheese eats mouse posted:Anyone that’s owned Scarpa Instinct VS tell me how much they stretch? Ordered a half and a whole size down from the EU 40 I got today. Liked the fit but there was some dead space above my toes and a lot on the heel. Not very much, the rubber on the toe cap will keep it from doing so.
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Nov 21, 2018 04:43
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chami posted:Not very much, the rubber on the toe cap will keep it from doing so. Yeah, I think I’m at my normal Euro size or maybe one down on my Instincts. I’d say that if you like the size of the shoe length-wise but you’ve still got those issues, they may just not fit your feet that well. I would be interested in meeting up with front range folks gym or outside, even though I’m not exactly in top climbing shape at the moment.
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Nov 21, 2018 07:33
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Bud Manstrong posted:I would be interested in meeting up with front range folks gym or outside, even though I’m not exactly in top climbing shape at the moment.
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Nov 21, 2018 08:34
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armorer posted:I'm going out to Red Rock Johnny Vegas, Geronimo, Olive Oil, Frogland, Cat in the Hat tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Nov 21, 2018 |
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Nov 21, 2018 09:03
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armorer posted:I'm going out to Red Rock Canyon in a few weeks with a buddy of mine who really only has a year or so of outdoor climbing under his belt. He's good on sport lead into the 10s, and can follow on trad. He wants to get on some big mulitpitch routes, but I'm wary of the short days and time loss to gear management every pitch. Frogland, Crimson Chrysalis, Tunnel Vision. I would also recommend the book route below solar slab, it's fun and is an intro to chimneys though don't believe any bs about it being equal in difficulty to Epinephrine.
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Nov 21, 2018 09:10
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Awesome! Thanks guys, I'll check these out.
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Nov 21, 2018 15:17
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Hot Diggity! posted:I've been using Vapors for a while and love them. Instincts I could never get the right fit on. Even with the Vapors (going down half a size from street shoes) there's a bit of room in the heel for me, leading to shoe farts. Other than that I love em. Instincts had a bit too much rubber on the toe for my liking but might be different for you I'm excited to try the Vapors when they come on Friday. I like the Boostic fit a little more but they're very thick compared to the Instinct and I'm looking for a more all around boulder shoe and read the Instinct/Vapors are better for that. This has been the only brand I've found so far that doesn't aggravate my toe knuckle bunion, can fit my morton's toe feet and high instep.
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Nov 21, 2018 16:11
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Going on trip to El Chorro, south Spain soon. Anyone got crag (6a/6c/7b pref)/restaurant/rest day recommendations?
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Nov 21, 2018 18:18
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It has been pissing rain in Chulilla, so I hope you get better weather. I ended up doing a quick trip to Albarracin and would totally recommend it.
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Nov 21, 2018 19:11
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I'm 3 weeks into no climbing. My sadbrains are knocking and the family stress from the holidays is incoming. Feck. Open up, you fucker, I need that sweet sweet dangling.
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Nov 21, 2018 23:57
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interrodactyl posted:I'm headed to Boulder in March to do some bouldering. How likely is it to snow, and even if it does, how much will that affect bouldering options? Generally, the ElDo park area is clear and clean with little to no snow, but cold enough for even a sunny send. The canyon bouldering will be hit or miss. Chaos is going to be a no-go unless you shovel out areas and are super committed. Flag and all the flatirons areas will be clear but typically crowded unless you go early or super late. March is generally a big time for the trad/sport people in the canyons. Typically it’s sunny and dry, but chilly. I managed to bag Resonated in March on a sunny send which is considered atypical for that problem, but it was super chilly out so the friction was superb. If front range goons want to go hit up ElDo and do Blue Whale or Germ Free, I’d be down. 
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Nov 22, 2018 16:52
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Going on trip to El Chorro, south Spain soon. Anyone got crag (6a/6c/7b pref)/restaurant/rest day recommendations? I hiked the Escalera Arabe route last May in about 4 hours and it was beautiful. The only things near the El Chorro train station were the Caminito del Rey walking path, a power plant, a nice restaurant, and a cash-only bar. It was pretty much just a train station for El Caminito, which I wanted to do, but they had sold out of tickets. Here's a guide to the hike if you want to do it. There were two climbers there the day we went, but I don't outdoor climb so I have no tips. https://www.johninmalaga.com/el-chorro-family-hike-arabic-staircase/ Betazoid fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Nov 22, 2018 |
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Nov 22, 2018 21:33
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gamera009 posted:If front range goons want to go hit up ElDo and do Blue Whale or Germ Free, I’d be down. How many pads you plan for germ free. I hear that you want 6 minimum.
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Nov 22, 2018 22:47
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spwrozek posted:How many pads you plan for germ free. I hear that you want 6 minimum. I have four pads so as long as people bring more it’s fine. It’s mostly to add protection for one sketchy move and a big drop. Good spotting is typically all you really need. Depending on number of people in March, we could hit the parking lot to hit up the gill block and Resonated.
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Nov 23, 2018 05:45
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In Africa for work and taking a much needed break from climbing. Mwanza, Tanzania is nicknamed 'City of Rocks' and the entire city and countryside is covered with stunning granite boulders. This place might have as much potential as the Rocklands and is going to be on the world circuit in a few decades if travel becomes easier. YOU HEARD IT HERE FIRST.
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Nov 23, 2018 12:08
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Happiness Commando posted:My perennial advice for sport gear is: spwrozek posted:Good advice. Here is my personal recommendation though. Can you help a bro out and give me a shopping list for Cyber sales? I have a set of draws with Hauki so we are set there, and he nabbed a rope on sale recently. Beyond that, what slings and such are needed for creating anchors would be great to know.
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Nov 26, 2018 18:14
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Double length. Two lockers. Two non lockers. Sliding x with stopper knots on each end.
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Nov 26, 2018 19:29
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IMO if you don't know what you need to build an anchor you should take a class on building them. They're straight forward but you gently caress up people can die, not something you want to learn on YouTube.
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Nov 26, 2018 20:19
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If you're sport climbing single pitch stuff with bolted anchors, just use two quickdraws. Otherwise, this video shows several of the best options and discusses pros and cons. Seconding the advice above though that if you don't know what you need to build a safe anchor in the area you're climbing, you shouldn't be trying to build an anchor yet. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3SkCojauHto
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Nov 26, 2018 20:59
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:IMO if you don't know what you need to build an anchor you should take a class on building them. They're straight forward but you gently caress up people can die, not something you want to learn on YouTube. Yes, I do not plan on dying.
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Nov 26, 2018 22:06
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Great, please don't. Seek out in person instruction, doesn't have to be a formal class but you should build a bunch of them under supervision until both you and the teacher feel really good about it. You're gonna make some dumb mistakes when you build your first ones - everyone does - and doing it on the ground with someone to troubleshoot is the difference between the learning process and ending up in an accident report.
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Nov 27, 2018 01:52
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Great, please don't. Trust me when I say I am a True Goon who overly researches and prepares for everything possible. I appreciate the advice for sure. I have a mentor who trad climbs and gym resources as well. I will not kill myself or others.
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Nov 27, 2018 02:09
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crazycello posted:Double length. Two lockers. Two non lockers. Sliding x with stopper knots on each end. Got to get that equalization...  Sport climbing anchors are two draws, put steel biners on the rope side, one can be a locker if you are paranoid.
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Nov 27, 2018 02:31
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Sure if you're just going to swap single pitch leads all day. But if you're going to run train on top rope like lots of beginners I think it's worthwhile to set up something sturdy. I use two draws 99% of the time but still think that building a proper anchor should be a mandatory part of someone's skill set.
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Nov 27, 2018 04:58
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Teaching anchoring classes made me realize how many things there are to consider. Like holy poo poo, trying to fit all that in to 8 hours in a digestible fashion + practice time is brutal.
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Nov 27, 2018 05:20
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Agreed, and I think it's really important for new leaders to know the full range of sport anchors even if 99% of the time it's two draws so when you get that 1% situation you know what to do instead of try the only thing you know and get into a weird situation.
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Nov 27, 2018 05:32
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I had a long climbing hiatus due to cycling injuries (including a full Achilles tendon tear, not recommended), and other than a minor pulley injury I'm having a blast again. I was climbing around V5/6 when I stopped and after a couple months I am pretty comfortable on most V4s and found several harder routes to work on. It'll be nice to feel strong again, I'm almost 30 and don't want to be soft or skinny-fat like a lot of my buddies, haha. I'm down about 20 lbs since I've started climbing again and another 10 would probably be beneficial. I'm not the tallest person in the gym, still 6 foot 2, but with my gangly rear end some routes can be trivial. I also just want to echo the social aspect of it, I don't have full blown sad brains, but being able to shoot the poo poo with people and cheer on or heckle definitely takes the edge off of the hellworld we currently reside in. http://imgur.com/a/BEncFHw edit: bad at BBcodes, image is the gym owner's dog BlancoNino fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Nov 27, 2018 |
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Nov 27, 2018 20:44
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