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isndl posted:Are you running an antivirus? I did see a post from a guy who said that uninstalling McAfee fixed it (disabling wasn't enough). Nope just the standard built in windows security stuff. This laptop came with norton but I already uninstalled it. I also just tried uninstalling all nvidia drivers then doing the directx package, and still no dice.
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Nov 25, 2018 21:24
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lazer_chicken posted:Nope just the standard built in windows security stuff. This laptop came with norton but I already uninstalled it. I also just tried uninstalling all nvidia drivers then doing the directx package, and still no dice. Try installing while in Safe Mode, and if that doesn't work try tweaking the registry as per step 6 here. If neither of those work I got nothing besides flatten and reinstall Windows (which is probably what I would have done in the first place to clean up all bloatware like Norton).
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Nov 25, 2018 21:48
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Lester Shy posted:I'm in the process of putting together a (mostly) new system, but I'm keeping my current SSD and external drives. I originally planned on using my 120GB SSD solely for Windows and one or two games at a time, but over the years it's gotten cluttered, and I always have to move stuff around when I want to play a new game. I want to give it a fresh start for the new build, but I have some questions. I haven't had to reinstall windows in like 15 years. First, you can keep your existing SSD; 120 GB is fine for just Windows, but nothing else (as you've discovered.) Get another SSD if you have games that you want to keep on it. 128 GB drives are in the $25 range, 256 for $50, 512 for <$75, and 1 TB ones have been around $100. Next, a Windows license is "registered" to your MS account but tied to the mobo; if it's a retail license you can port it, otherwise an OEM license "belongs" to that specific mobo and you'd have to buy a new license even if the board went kaput and you had to replace it. That reset procedure is more for if you're going to resell a whole system, or if you were going to otherwise nuke it and reinstall the OS from scratch (this does the same thing.) Since you're building a new system and apparently intend to start with a fresh OS installation I'd just wipe the drive and install Windows from a USB drive after you've assembled the new system. If your original Windows 8 was a retail version, as above, (which you apparently upgraded to 10 from,) you can perform the aforementioned new Win10 installation from a USB drive, then enter the Win8 license after the OS is up and running and it will accept that to register the Win10 installation.
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Nov 25, 2018 23:13
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Atomizer posted:Next, a Windows license is "registered" to your MS account but tied to the mobo; if it's a retail license you can port it, otherwise an OEM license "belongs" to that specific mobo and you'd have to buy a new license even if the board went kaput and you had to replace it. You can also transfer an oem license with a call to the activation hotline. If it is because your board went kaput and you had to replace it, you're not even violating the spirit of the license as long as it's somewhat plausibly the same computer. Atomizer posted:If your original Windows 8 was a retail version, as above, (which you apparently upgraded to 10 from,) you can perform the aforementioned new Win10 installation from a USB drive, then enter the Win8 license after the OS is up and running and it will accept that to register the Win10 installation.
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Nov 26, 2018 01:47
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I have a new RTX 2080 / 9900K system on a Z390 and was getting BSODs with WDL_VIOLATION. I updated my Nvidia drivers to the latest from Nvidia (vs the Windows Update) and haven't had any issues for a few weeks--except today. I find that launching Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon Wildlands consistently restarts my computer and just yields a 161 EventID (Dump file creation failed due to error during dump creation.) and the generic Event ID 41 that the system rebooted without shutting down. I'm starting to get spooked a bit at my new build--is the recommended burn-in stress test still Prime95? Is there anything that will work my video card too? FWIW my core temps never get above the 50s Celsius and I'm not OC'ing or anything like that. I did buy uprated RAM but the timings are being handled through SPD.
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Nov 26, 2018 02:56
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Is there a way to update the contents of a Windows USB installation medium without running the whole media creation tool again? I've been using a drive that was created in 2017 to install Win10 on various systems and I figured I should get it current to avoid having to run tons of updates on every new system. I don't see a way to simply bring the contents of the installer up-to-date, and the 1809 creation tool has been running for a couple hours now, which is the main reason why I've procrastinated updating it regularly.Hed posted:I have a new RTX 2080 / 9900K system on a Z390 and was getting BSODs with WDL_VIOLATION. I updated my Nvidia drivers to the latest from Nvidia (vs the Windows Update) and haven't had any issues for a few weeks--except today. Aren't there issues with the new RTX cards just dying outright? I mean it could be anything at this point but given the known problems with those GPUs that would probably be my first step.
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Nov 26, 2018 04:14
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The only way I know of would be to mount the image on the USB with DISM and streamline the KBs directly into it, but that would be essentially the same thing as what you're doing now but with a multiplied amount of effort.
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Nov 26, 2018 04:24
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isndl posted:Try installing while in Safe Mode, and if that doesn't work try tweaking the registry as per step 6 here. If neither of those work I got nothing besides flatten and reinstall Windows (which is probably what I would have done in the first place to clean up all bloatware like Norton). Didn't work so I factory reset it and tried the DirectX install immediately after logging in for the first time. Worked perfectly. It's baffling since this thing was literally new out of the box 3 days ago but whatever, problem solved!
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Nov 26, 2018 05:07
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Atomizer posted:Is there a way to update the contents of a Windows USB installation medium without running the whole media creation tool again? I've been using a drive that was created in 2017 to install Win10 on various systems and I figured I should get it current to avoid having to run tons of updates on every new system. I don't see a way to simply bring the contents of the installer up-to-date, and the 1809 creation tool has been running for a couple hours now, which is the main reason why I've procrastinated updating it regularly. Writing to USB drives, especially cheap ones, can be extremely slow. Just be patient and have it run in the background, basically. Or you could look into buying a faster-writing USB drive.
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Nov 26, 2018 05:20
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lazer_chicken posted:Didn't work so I factory reset it and tried the DirectX install immediately after logging in for the first time. Worked perfectly. It's baffling since this thing was literally new out of the box 3 days ago but whatever, problem solved! If I had to bet it's something to do with Norton not cleanly uninstalling itself, which is why I like to clean install instead of removing bloatware from the factory installation. At least you got it fixed now!
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Nov 26, 2018 05:27
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astral posted:Writing to USB drives, especially cheap ones, can be extremely slow. Just be patient and have it run in the background, basically. I actually have been using an older USB2 drive, partially because USB3 compatibility issues were suspected a couple of years ago when I started doing this, and partially because it's got a little LCD on it that tells me the device name and thus exactly what it's for.  (It's the 8 GB version of this, for those interested, and it appears to be well over 10 years old, so....  )Anyways, I probably could just use a USB3 flash drive for this, and I even have a 16 GB mSATA SSD in an enclosure that I was going to use as cache, but it would make more sense to use it for my Windows install drive if that's really going to make a significant difference (and it certainly makes more sense to instead use a ~128 GB SSD as a more useful cache.)
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Nov 26, 2018 05:31
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I've never had luck with the MCT making the bootable USB itself. If you plan on only using UEFI, then downloading the ISO and simply unpacking it in the root of a USB stick is perfectly fine. Downloading the ISO seems more reliable for the MCT for me.
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Nov 26, 2018 08:45
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Atomizer posted:I actually have been using an older USB2 drive, partially because USB3 compatibility issues were suspected a couple of years ago when I started doing this, and partially because it's got a little LCD on it that tells me the device name and thus exactly what it's for. Your problem isn't USB 2. That bottleneck is about 30 megabytes per second, which can transfer 8 gigs in under five minutes. The drive is probably dying, since even the cheapest drives can handle sequential transfers reasonably well. Edit: The spec for that drive says 7 megabytes per second write, which is still only 20 minutes for the entire capacity. To take more than double that, when writing big files, means something is going very wrong. Dylan16807 fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Nov 26, 2018 |
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Nov 26, 2018 09:16
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Dylan16807 posted:Your problem isn't USB 2. That bottleneck is about 30 megabytes per second, which can transfer 8 gigs in under five minutes. The drive is probably dying, since even the cheapest drives can handle sequential transfers reasonably well. So here's the thing: after the bootable drive was complete, I used it to reinstall Windows, which only took 10-20 minutes (the part that required the USB drive, at least, minus the post-install configuration.) I know that part of the medium creation requires a download, then the actual installation, but the latter certainly took far longer than it did to read the necessary files and install the OS. The drive is clearly fast enough, it's the creation process that's unnecessarily long.
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Nov 26, 2018 10:00
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Media Creation Tool is unreasonably slow garbage in my experience. It also hardly cleans up after itself. It probably does dumb poo poo like painstakingly verify every file after write and then once more after it's done.
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Nov 26, 2018 10:08
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Download the ISO files (get the link using your phone, just visit the Media Creation Tool website), use Pendrive USB Installer and create your own install media.
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Nov 26, 2018 10:33
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I use a third party tool called rufus to make bootable usb from iso, it works well.
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Nov 26, 2018 11:58
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Broken Machine posted:I use a third party tool called rufus to make bootable usb from iso, it works well. Rufus is pretty much the same thing and works as well. I prefer recommending Pendrive USB Installer because it's easier to use.
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Nov 26, 2018 12:03
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Atomizer posted:
Makes sense. Do you have an idea of a good way to stress test the GPU? Maybe move to the iGPU and run some benches?
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Nov 26, 2018 13:38
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So, uh, how do you open the File Explorer as administrator? Other than Run as Admin on explorer.exe. Any sane way from within the shell, that's something I'm oblivious to.
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Nov 26, 2018 18:17
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Combat Pretzel posted:So, uh, how do you open the File Explorer as administrator? Other than Run as Admin on explorer.exe. Any sane way from within the shell, that's something I'm oblivious to. Task manager has a run as admin option iirc
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Nov 26, 2018 18:28
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File Explorer has "Open New Window" as menu option. You'd figure they'd add an "...as Administrator" one, too, or something. To bypass UAC, when doing a lot of file stuff in system folders.
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Nov 26, 2018 18:39
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Hungry Computer posted:LTSC has it's potential drawbacks that are stopping me from using it everywhere: Yeah, Microsoft will flip their poo poo if they see you using it on an end-user's machine. You'll get a whole shitload of gloom/doom talk, but when you push back, there's really no reason for it as long as you accept the caveats. It completely breaks their new OS business model, but not having to go through the nightmare of validation testing and deployment a major OS update every six months that's absolutely guaranteed to break a ton of poo poo is really nice. They also seem to think that stuff like the Store and Edge and absolute garbage like the MOVIES and WEATHER apps are somehow essential. Right now will be the best of times to run LTSC, since it's current. We definitely had difficulty getting hardware over the last year since we had to have machines custom built with older processors due to lack of support. The math still works out for me, as an undersized team with a shitload of machines to support. Maybe two users have complained, and hey to be honest, not having to buy and support snowflake Surface hardware is kind of nice. It's certainly more stable and useful than it used to be, but... Microoft just needs to put out something that lies between the normal release and LTSC. Less frequent updates, highly configurable on getting rid of preloaded poo poo, etc. But they won't, because it's all inching toward "OS as an ad/sales platform" and that breaks that lovely business model. I've even gone so far as to script out stripping down Enterprise, getting rid of the preloaded nonsense and bloat, but the Feature Updates will just put it all back. I mean wtf, they work REALLY HARD to keep you from moving the goddamned XBOX app from your ENTERPRISE install of Windows. gently caress 'em.
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Nov 26, 2018 18:57
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Although if that's not an outright lie it's basically an admission that they're ignoring feedback.
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AlternateAccount posted:Yeah, Microsoft will flip their poo poo if they see you using it on an end-user's machine. You'll get a whole shitload of gloom/doom talk, but when you push back, there's really no reason for it as long as you accept the caveats. It completely breaks their new OS business model, but not having to go through the nightmare of validation testing and deployment a major OS update every six months that's absolutely guaranteed to break a ton of poo poo is really nice. They also seem to think that stuff like the Store and Edge and absolute garbage like the MOVIES and WEATHER apps are somehow essential. I just don't update. Windows 10 Enterprise runs in a VM for some games and Visual Studio 2017 and it works fine.
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Nov 26, 2018 20:05
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Combat Pretzel posted:So, uh, how do you open the File Explorer as administrator? Other than Run as Admin on explorer.exe. Any sane way from within the shell, that's something I'm oblivious to.
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Nov 26, 2018 20:45
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You can also ctrl+enter to launch things as admin from the start menu.
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Nov 26, 2018 20:50
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Combat Pretzel posted:File Explorer has "Open New Window" as menu option. You'd figure they'd add an "...as Administrator" one, too, or something. To bypass UAC, when doing a lot of file stuff in system folders. Part of the balancing act with UAC is that it's supposed to make doing those things somewhat annoying to encourage software vendors to not require their users to do admin things whenever practical. If you make it too easy to defeat then lovely vendors go back to XP-era habits and just tell their users to jump through the hoop.
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Nov 26, 2018 21:05
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c0burn posted:You can also ctrl+enter to launch things as admin from the start menu. You can right-click things that pop up in Start/search and do Run as Administrator - not for File Explorer though. Seems deliberate?
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Nov 26, 2018 21:10
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Combat Pretzel posted:File Explorer has "Open New Window" as menu option. You'd figure they'd add an "...as Administrator" one, too, or something. To bypass UAC, when doing a lot of file stuff in system folders. AFAIK explorer is already running with administrative rights, if you are an Administrator user. A regular user wouldn't even get the option to click yes on a UAC prompt when deleting system32 -- it would just deny / fail. The problem you're having is that all the system folders & files are owned by a different user, generally TrustedInstaller. You can't delete another user's files without asking for permission every time, unless you turn off UAC entirely. If you want to delete files that are owned by TrustedInstaller, the easiest was is to give yourself a quick way to take ownership so they're your files, after which you can do what you want. Taking ownership of the entire windows directory or some other stupid poo poo will mess your OS up. This is good for doing something like deleting Comic Sans from your fonts. (loving comic sans is a protected system font, wtf)
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Nov 26, 2018 21:23
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Just it's also ctrl+shift+enter, not just ctrl+enter.
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Nov 26, 2018 21:27
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Combat Pretzel posted:File Explorer has "Open New Window" as menu option. You'd figure they'd add an "...as Administrator" one, too, or something. To bypass UAC, when doing a lot of file stuff in system folders. In my experience that doesn't work if you have an account restricted by UAC. Unless you are using Windows Server. My solution has been to start something like Notepad as admin, then use the File - Open dialog.
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Nov 26, 2018 21:44
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Am building a new system tomorrow, same case, new guts, but keeping my SSD. Is it still de rigueur to do a clean install of Windows? Would I be running into problems if I just plug my SSD with my existing installation of Win10 into the mainboard and call it a day?
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Nov 26, 2018 22:29
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Wengy posted:Am building a new system tomorrow, same case, new guts, but keeping my SSD. Is it still de rigueur to do a clean install of Windows? Would I be running into problems if I just plug my SSD with my existing installation of Win10 into the mainboard and call it a day? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4eScf6TMaM
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Nov 26, 2018 22:34
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Is there any specified amount of time you have to wait between using an old 7/8 Pro key to upgrade a 10 Home install? I have a retail key of 10 Home, which I upgraded to Pro using an old 8 Pro key a few months ago. Earlier this month I pulled the trigger on a new motherboard and CPU and again was able to install 10 Home and then upgrade to Pro using the same key. Then, I wound up exchanging the motherboard for a different manufacturer after some BIOS bugs, but this time the old 8 Pro key wouldn’t activate. I figure in a month or two it should work again, just curious if anyone knows the exact timing (or hoping it’s not permanently burned).
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Nov 27, 2018 05:12
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There's no timeout, but if you've changed hardware you generally need to re-activate the key. If you've already associated your key with a Microsoft account, you can do the reactivation online. Otherwise just call Microsoft support and they should be able to help you out (I believe there's a number on the activation dialog box).
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Nov 27, 2018 05:42
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Frequency of key usage is some complicated formula nobody outside of Microsoft knows so just try the key again. If there's a problem you can call Microsoft and tell the robot that you're only using it on one machine and that should be enough.
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Nov 27, 2018 05:44
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nielsm posted:I've never had luck with the MCT making the bootable USB itself. Lambert posted:Download the ISO files (get the link using your phone, just visit the Media Creation Tool website), use Pendrive USB Installer and create your own install media. The re-release of the 1809 ISO has an install.wim file larger than 4 GB. You can't make a FAT32 UEFI install image with files at or over 4 GB (because you can't have files that big on FAT32) and not every board will boot from EFI images on NTFS drives. If you use the MCT to make an ISO, it'll use unencrypted ESD and it'll fit in FAT32 space for things like Rufus or 'just copy the DVD image contents over so it can only boot EFI+GPT style'. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Nov 27, 2018 |
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Nov 27, 2018 18:30
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Dylan16807 posted:Your problem isn't USB 2. That bottleneck is about 30 megabytes per second, which can transfer 8 gigs in under five minutes. The drive is probably dying, since even the cheapest drives can handle sequential transfers reasonably well. Could be the drive is decent on serial read-write but terrible at random read-write, and there's enough files on the DVD outside of the big boot and install archive files to eat up a lot of time effectively doing nothing. I've taken to using app-rated MicroSDHC/XC cards as flash drives because of this, and it's probably the wrong way to go about it, but gently caress it.
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Nov 27, 2018 18:34
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Ularg posted:Crashes are really inconsistent, I can't reproduce it at will beyond running a game long enough. So that's basically throwing a wrench into the plan anytime I need to go online to do something that my phone can't do. I'm a bit late to this, but what CPU are you running out of curiosity? I'm having a VERY similar issue (random hardlock/sound loop) and I think I've tracked it down to the Ryzen Master software.
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Nov 27, 2018 20:03
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Is there any real reason to keep the manufacturer's partition vs. blowing it away and reclaiming that space? Lenovo decided that they needed a whole 25GB of space at the end of my drive and, as far as I can tell, it's only use is holding 1.5GB of drivers that are all probably woefully out of date. I can't just shrink it down, either, because it sticks the free space at the end of the partition and can't be added to the C drive.
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Nov 27, 2018 22:31
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