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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah rear ones have weights where they hit the front calipers. It's my first time using these wheels since buying the car as they are the "winter rims" with winter tires. Not new, but almost. I was thinking that the tires maybe had worn "asymmetrically", but then again the alignment is bang on (summers were like a dream at all speeds), so shouldn't really matter that much right? Just read somewhere that you shouldn't rotate from side to side. Didn't spot any obvious spots where weights could have come off, and it didn't happen when I put them on. It depends... If the tires are directional of course you don't want to swap them from side to side... I've read you don't want to swap studded tires side to side, even if they are non-directional. Once studs wear in going one direction they tend to come out if you change their direction (apparently). I've never tested it myself, but I can see validity to the argument. If you have regular non-directional stud-less tires, however, go swap them side to side, doesn't hurt. It is possible for tires to go out of balance as they wear, it's also possible they were never balanced correctly and the last owner just didn't care. Just because your car is properly aligned and drives straight doesn't mean you don't need to rotate your tires. The tires on one end are inevitably going to wear more. If it's 2wd, the drive axle tires usually wear more, if it's awd the front tires usually wear more. Just the nature of the beast.
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Nov 24, 2018 01:26
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chrisgt posted:It depends... If the tires are directional of course you don't want to swap them from side to side... I've read you don't want to swap studded tires side to side, even if they are non-directional. Once studs wear in going one direction they tend to come out if you change their direction (apparently). I've never tested it myself, but I can see validity to the argument. Not directional or studded. I think it's likely that they weren't balanced properly. I brought up the alignment just to further reinforce that it's the current tires and rims that are causing it. I was hoping to put the slightly more worn but not significantly so fronts on the back to even out the wear. After driving some on the tires I'm not that happy with them anyway (Falken), so will most likely change them before next winter anyway.
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Nov 24, 2018 11:34
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Strife posted:
A friend of mine is a detailer for a living and has tried a good few products for winter use, current go-to is Sonax Xtreme Protect & Shine which is a gloss sealant. It claims it’ll hold on for 6 months but even if it manages half that it’s pretty impressive.
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Nov 24, 2018 23:36
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New plugs and wires in my POS 1996 2.3L Ranger. I've always heard that it's a real pain in the rear end, it has 2 plugs per cylinder and the ones at the firewall are supposed to be difficult. It was not the easiest plug swap, but got done in 1 beer.
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Nov 25, 2018 01:06
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New tie rod end for the STS, since the bushing was all busted up to gently caress and the ball joint was actually exposed. Now there's less knocking in the suspension and the steering feels a bit tighter. Also changed the spark plugs. Gotta love how the previous owner got lazy and slapped a few Autolites in the front bank, but didn't gently caress with the plugs near the firewall at all. Wound up pulling all four of the original Denso double plats and replaced them all with AC Delcos.
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Nov 25, 2018 03:22
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Did half a heater core job, burned an hour fiddling under the car to put back a stud that Ford in their infinite wisdom decided should be retained by nuts on both sides, with only a slot and... idk a flat bit on the stud that keeps it pulling through the slot. The stud can freely rotate when neither nut is in place, and the one on the outside was loose, so when I took off the inner nut to remove the airbox it fell to the ground, and trying to install it with nothing preventing the stud from spinning and slipping out was a bitch. Extra pair of hands would have helped but I was flying solo. Did eventually get it on though, hopefully buttoning it back up tomorrow goes smoothly.
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Nov 25, 2018 05:14
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Oil change. Big meh there, except AutoZone had a black friday weekend sale for 5 qts Mobil 1 High Mileage + STP XL 10k mile filter for $25.99. Also tried to swap front brakes. Advance gave me the rear brake pads for the Ion Redline. I have a base model with rear drums (all trims got drums in the back except for the Redline), and needed front pads. 
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Nov 25, 2018 11:26
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Made some progress on the stereo repairs. Got the new head unit mounted and will solder an adapter to the harness so its plug and play. Got a box of spare interior plastics from someone stripping a levin. Looking forward to removing the silver painted trim. Replaced the shift lever as the PO had chopped the stick in half. But theres also an issue with getting it into first and occasionally second. I have a set of shifter cables but the bushes looked ok. Issue is less noticeable with a longer lever but still there. Can this be caused by something other than the bushes? Cable binding?
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Nov 25, 2018 11:49
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STR posted:Oil change. Big meh there, except AutoZone had a black friday weekend sale for 5 qts Mobil 1 High Mileage + STP XL 10k mile filter for $25.99. Been a while since I've done drum brakes. They still do core charge on the shoes?
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Nov 25, 2018 16:53
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C-Bangin' it 
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Finished the heater core job, GOD what a pain in the rear end. Now I can have defrost, and cool dry air that's not finger numbing. Next is the transmission valve body thing whenever the last bits arrive. Gotta take a few days off to recuperate though.
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Nov 26, 2018 00:57
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Blew it up and put it on Craigslist 
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Nov 26, 2018 01:39
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Fender Anarchist posted:Gotta take a few days off to recuperate though. Don't mind me asking, how old are you?
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Nov 26, 2018 03:13
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Got the correct front pads. Turns out nothing was metal to metal (despite the horrific grinding I've had for a few weeks), though the pads on there were well past half worn. One pad was missing the warning tab, and the rotor was gouged a bit where it would have been = guess maybe it got wedged in there? Tore into the rear brakes to figure out the parking brake issues. Everything looks fine, except the leading shoe is wearing a bit faster on both sides. So I yanked the parking brake with the drums off. Only the driver's side shoes extended (barely at that), passenger side didn't do anything. Dug into the center console, adjusted the cable. Now the driver's side works fine, passenger side still doesn't do poo poo. Looked under the car and found the cable jacket going to that wheel is split (looks like it got crushed when the car went on a lift at some point). I'm assuming the cable is snapped inside. Looks like $30ish for a Dorman replacement. At least now the brake will actually hold it on a slight incline, but it's only doing it with 1 wheel for now. Colostomy Bag posted:Been a while since I've done drum brakes. They still do core charge on the shoes? Wasn't replacing anything in the back, just somehow wound up with Ion Redline rear disc brake pads when I was looking up front brake pads for a base model Ion. But I just checked Advance Auto's website - doesn't look like there's a core charge, at least for my car.
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Nov 26, 2018 09:06
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Colostomy Bag posted:Don't mind me asking, how old are you? 30 and fat, dont judge me plus contorting my giant rear end into tight spaces is exhausting on its own without having to yank and shove things into place
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Nov 26, 2018 09:07
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Put the car in the workshop a few weeks ago, finally got some time free to actually do something on it. Up on stands, petrol tank out, rear suspension pulled and hacked more poo poo metal out to put good metal in. Winter projects, yay!
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Nov 26, 2018 13:05
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Fender Anarchist posted:30 and fat, dont judge me I'm not even 30 yet and doing interior work for any real amount of time makes me feel like I'm 50. I'm too tall to bend and contort myself and end up sore as hell no matter what I try to do
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Nov 26, 2018 19:28
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Changed the oil, filled the radiator with coolant, burped the radiator hoses a bit and found a leak and fixed that leak. Accidentally left the fuel pump relay jumped and when I turned the key I filled the floats so now the ethanol varnish countdown begins. I guess the starter is bad. Tried to turn it over and heard relay click and saw a voltage drop on the dash meter but no motion. Tried whacking it with a large wrench a few times and no motion. The starter came in a box of assorted parts so I'm not surprised it's bad.
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Nov 26, 2018 19:29
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Tinted my tail lights with vinyl. I like the look, not sure I like the lines, but tinting the whole light-bar tints my main brake lights which I'm not too keen on. I don't trust other idiots as it is.
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Nov 26, 2018 22:50
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Got my golf mostly taken apart for the transmission I was expecting to find out UPS destroyed it in transit. It was the only one available in the US that I was aware of so I have to figure out what to do now.
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Nov 27, 2018 00:20
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Took the seats out so my son and I could clean the interior, shampoo the carpets and seats.   Found the horn button!  Inspected the brakes and confirmed the sticking caliper  Put the hood back on and aligned it, then the boy posed for a picture with the car he wants as his first  
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Nov 27, 2018 15:50
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Noice. Have you still got the 4 bolt hubs on this? If so, don't change them, my friend's one has had his swapped for FC 5 bolt hubs and such when he bought it and all the cool period wheels for this are all 4 bolt. He's just picked up a set of Watanabes from Croooober for reasonably cheap but finding the correct offset has been a nightmare (and they're still not quite perfect).
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Nov 27, 2018 15:55
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Noice. Have you still got the 4 bolt hubs on this? If so, don't change them, my friend's one has had his swapped for FC 5 bolt hubs and such when he bought it and all the cool period wheels for this are all 4 bolt. He's just picked up a set of Watanabes from Croooober for reasonably cheap but finding the correct offset has been a nightmare (and they're still not quite perfect). Yeah it’s the garbage pattern 4x110. I just bought Enkei Speedlines in 15x7 +20 for it which are a Minilite/Panasport lookalike wheel and one of the few available for a reasonable amount of $. There are a bunch of period wheels around but only in 13” and double what new Enkeis cost, and I want real tire options. I might be picking up a TII in the near future that has a garbage body and a good ported NA 13B running on Haltech, and all that stuff might eventually find its way into the FB.
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Nov 27, 2018 16:14
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You mean Enkei Compes? Nice wheels. Ported 13B will be pretty great, video of that noise please when you grab it. My friend's is a turbo 12A that's recently had a rebuild but the car's in storage until next year.
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Nov 27, 2018 17:44
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Olympic Mathlete posted:You mean Enkei Compes? Nice wheels. Nope I mean Konig Rewind, sorry! Not sure where my brain was! These are relatively light at 13.4lb  I’ll have to take video of the current setup as well. The exhaust is pretty raunchy. It’s an unknown header with an old school Pacesetter rear section. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Nov 27, 2018 |
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Nov 27, 2018 17:49
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Fender Anarchist posted:Finished the heater core job, GOD what a pain in the rear end. Now I can have defrost, and cool dry air that's not finger numbing. Oh, yeah, the trans is a slog. Watch for the stupid check balls if you turn the valve body over once you remove the cover plate. I had to find mine in the fluid in the pan I had it in while disassembling on the bench. Took a bit to find the proper section of the manual that had how many there were and where they went, though I think you already have that info in one of your previous posts. I got two new tires for the Crown Vic (finally, WTF Discount Tire) and had one of the remaining plugged. Two of the tires were from 2015, with 40K on them, and were worn enough that they wouldn't patch one AND were starting to dry rot crack. Supposed to have a 60K mile warranty, but of course they claimed that the wear looked like it was alignment wear (it's not.) So not buying Falken's poo poo again, gently caress you. The other two are the same tire, but newer thanks to road hazard warranty. One lost a chunk of tread not too long after new (2016), and the other got a sidewall cut in a pothole in 2017. The leaking old one was also starting to split the tread from the sidewall on the inside when I pulled it to put the spare on (because DT took forever to get the tires I wanted) presumably from being driven on with low pressure. I wasn't going to push the warranty on that one, anyway. Painted some interior trim on the AE86, and started repairs on some of the broken pieces. May not need to bother, as a guy on the local FB AE86 group is parting a coupe with what looks like good plastics. Trying to get a price, since I'm completely missing one b-pillar trim. No progress on the RX-7. Fender Anarchist posted:30 and fat, dont judge me This is why I *will* have a lift, even if it's a MaxJax 48" one. Except I'm 49 and fat. Imperador do Brasil posted:Took the seats out so my son and I could clean the interior, shampoo the carpets and seats. I have those exact same seats in my '79, stolen from an '84/5 because my original vinyl seats had long gone the way of Japanese vinyl whe I got the car 20 years ago. quote:Put the hood back on and aligned it, then the boy posed for a picture with the car he wants as his first Looks pretty good! Olympic Mathlete posted:Noice. Have you still got the 4 bolt hubs on this? If so, don't change them, my friend's one has had his swapped for FC 5 bolt hubs and such when he bought it and all the cool period wheels for this are all 4 bolt. He's just picked up a set of Watanabes from Croooober for reasonably cheap but finding the correct offset has been a nightmare (and they're still not quite perfect). Except very few of those wheels are 4x110mm. I've got the GSL-SE suspension and hubs under my '79, so 4x4.5"/114.5mm, which is so much easier to find decent wheels in. Also, rear disc brakes, and bigger rotors overall. Olympic Mathlete posted:You mean Enkei Compes? Nice wheels. I was not aware of those. I like those better than the Rewinds. Those little strakes on the inside lip work for me, though I prefer the more rounded spokes on the Rewinds.
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Nov 27, 2018 23:45
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Darchangel posted:Oh, yeah, the trans is a slog. Watch for the stupid check balls if you turn the valve body over once you remove the cover plate. I had to find mine in the fluid in the pan I had it in while disassembling on the bench. Took a bit to find the proper section of the manual that had how many there were and where they went, though I think you already have that info in one of your previous posts. Yeah I've got a diagram, along with a whole new set of balls; 161k miles, I figure they're due. Oddly the replacement set is listed for GM transmissions, but 1/4" balls are 1/4" balls I figure, and this one comes in a set of 10 so I even get a few spares. My snap ring though has been sitting in a USPS office across town since 6am Friday morning, though, according to Amazon. Should just found a local Ford shop to get it from.
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Nov 28, 2018 04:18
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Yeah it’s the garbage pattern 4x110. I just bought Enkei Speedlines in 15x7 +20 for it which are a Minilite/Panasport lookalike wheel and one of the few available for a reasonable amount of $. There are a bunch of period wheels around but only in 13” and double what new Enkeis cost, and I want real tire options. I might be picking up a TII in the near future that has a garbage body and a good ported NA 13B running on Haltech, and all that stuff might eventually find its way into the FB. I am having a hell of a time finding high performance street tires for these stock-sized 13"ers 
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Nov 28, 2018 06:33
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Darchangel posted:Except I'm 49 and fat. I turned 45 some time 2 weeks ago. It was a bad week, and who knows when I'll start caring again My old job of HVAC would kill me these days. One of the reasons why I gave it up was back and knee pain, but ceiling spaces on hot days almost killed me with heatstroke a few times. Also I ain't done poo poo with my cars because sometimes old BMWs just don't break down. E: When it does it will be epic, because I know the timing chain and guides are proper hosed. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Nov 28, 2018 |
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Nov 28, 2018 13:03
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Darchangel posted:Except very few of those wheels are 4x110mm. *learning* Sounds like that's a far better way to have done things over stock or FC bits for nice wheels then. 5 bolts wheels are all mid-late 80s onwards and all the cool wheels are 4 bolt and mid 80s or earlier.
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Nov 28, 2018 13:22
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clutchpuck posted:I am having a hell of a time finding high performance street tires for these stock-sized 13"ers Yeah that was my reason for buying new wheels on a low budget project car. 185/70/13 is not exactly a performance size. I went with 195/55/15 all around. I am sure I could have gone wider but in a low-hp car I don’t want to be over-tired and underpowered.
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Nov 28, 2018 14:05
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My wife has a ‘17 Civic EX-T (the 1.5t engine) with ~30k miles and I was driving it yesterday. I noticed that when you go full throttle there is a squeak/squeal that definitely isn’t normal. I checked forums for other reports of the noise, but found that there is a problem with the new 1.5t engines and oil dilution from fuel seeping past the rings. I checked the oil and it is about an inch over the full dot. I took a sample of the oil to send to black stone, but is there anything else I should do? The dealer visit is tomorrow. She drives about 100 miles a day and we picked this car because we figured it would last 6 years/200k miles. It definitely won’t with fuel for oil.
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Nov 28, 2018 14:29
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doogle posted:My wife has a ‘17 Civic EX-T (the 1.5t engine) with ~30k miles and I was driving it yesterday. I noticed that when you go full throttle there is a squeak/squeal that definitely isn’t normal. I checked forums for other reports of the noise, but found that there is a problem with the new 1.5t engines and oil dilution from fuel seeping past the rings. I checked the oil and it is about an inch over the full dot. I took a sample of the oil to send to black stone, but is there anything else I should do? The dealer visit is tomorrow. She drives about 100 miles a day and we picked this car because we figured it would last 6 years/200k miles. It definitely won’t with fuel for oil. Yeah that sucks and my condolences. Hopefully Honda takes care of you. Keep us posted. (And to add, there is nothing else you can do.)
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Nov 28, 2018 18:51
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My wife also drives a Civic with the 1.5T. Now you've got me paranoid 
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Nov 29, 2018 04:22
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I was really excited about picking up a used 1.5T
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Nov 29, 2018 05:15
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Bought my first turbo! With a Barra attached  Decided to stop loving around and go for the barra turbo in my XC. Not much extra work over n/a for a lot of gains. A lot more parts to get but this was the starting point to get me in the zone for actually doing it. It worked out really well because the XC turned 40 this month, a perfect gift for it.
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Nov 29, 2018 08:08
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Nice, but you do know there's some weaknesses with the BA turbo right? IIRC rods can't take much boost and a couple of other things (oil feed to the turbo poor and easy to get a blockage?).
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Nov 29, 2018 11:02
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Yeah, I was initially a bit cautious about getting a BA turbo motor but it'll be fine for what I want initially. I'll probably only run a mild tune until I build another block after the conversion is done. The max the BA/early BF rods can take is about 300-350kw. The other weak points I know of are the valve springs and the oil pump gear, which are both things I'll do before they go into the XC. I'll look into the oil feed, I haven't heard about that one.
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Nov 29, 2018 11:58
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Excuse the possible rudeness of the question but how much are Barras over there to buy? At some point I feel like I should get one shipped over because I've never seen a ride with one under the bonnet here.
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Nov 29, 2018 12:09
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Well I bought that for $1500 (aud obviously). Full engine, intake, turbo, engine loom, and ecu. Usually that would go for 2k at the moment. N/A motors can be had for a case of beer, whole cars for $500-$700.
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Nov 29, 2018 12:15
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Ansith posted:Well I bought that for $1500 (aud obviously). Full engine, intake, turbo, engine loom, and ecu. Usually that would go for 2k at the moment. $1500 AUD is like a $1100 here. That’s cheap!
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Nov 29, 2018 14:13
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