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fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
I've decided to finally start playing around with overclocking since I have a new build on its way. I'm currently on a 4690k on a Z97-AR. I used the preset overclock in the BIOS and it's running at 4.49Ghz at 1.25V. Stability seems great and temps are good as well. Leave it there for now or play with it when I have the time to learn some things?

I used Prime95 for a couple stress tests without realizing that you're supposed to use a specific version for Haswell chips. That'll get the core temps up in a hurry.

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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO
Feb 28, 1985


B-Mac posted:

You could try disabling Xmas

The Grinches memory clocks grew three times that day.

B-Mac
Apr 21, 2003
I'll never catch "the gay"!

GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:

The Grinches memory clocks grew three times that day.

Hah, best auto correct ever.

Lockback
Sep 3, 2006

All days are nights to see till I see thee; and nights bright days when dreams do show me thee.

fknlo posted:

I've decided to finally start playing around with overclocking since I have a new build on its way. I'm currently on a 4690k on a Z97-AR. I used the preset overclock in the BIOS and it's running at 4.49Ghz at 1.25V. Stability seems great and temps are good as well. Leave it there for now or play with it when I have the time to learn some things?

I used Prime95 for a couple stress tests without realizing that you're supposed to use a specific version for Haswell chips. That'll get the core temps up in a hurry.

That's pretty good for a 4690k. If you want to start messing with it I'd put money on hitting 4.7, but you'd probably be running warm at that point. I think 4.8 was basically the realistic ceiling there for most people but probably not worth getting to.

If 4.5 was that easy on a relatively low voltage that would probably be where I'd leave it for "day-to-day".

GutBomb
Jun 15, 2005

Dude?
This is going to be a somewhat long post about RAM overclocking.

So this weekend I replaced the g.skill ripjaws 4 ddr4 3000 MHz RAM in my machine with a set of Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3000 because I’m impressed by things that blink. I decided I’d mess around with overclocking it beyond the XMP profile which is something I’d never done with the g.skill stuff. I’m on a Ryzen 2700x with an Asus x470-F Gaming motherboard. As for CPU overclocking I’m using just the standard XFR/Precision Boost Overdrive setting built into Zen+ and am seeing all core boost of around 4.1 and single cores are boosting up to around 4.35. For cooling my CPU has an NZXT Kraken x62 280mm AIO liquid cooler and in stress tests gets up to 80c but never gets above 65c under gaming load. My GPU is an EVGA SC2 Hybrid 1080ti with a 120mm radiator. I replaced all of the fans for everything with a bunch of black Noctua fans and everything is staying cool and quiet.

First thing I noticed was that the CAS timing setting from the xmp profile wasn’t being honored. The RAM is rated for 3000MHz at 15-17-17-35 1.35v but CAS would always be set at 16 when I checked the RAM in CPU-Z. I did some research and found that if you have Gear Down Mode turned on (which it is by default) it will round up timings to the next highest even number. I disabled it and then it started honoring the CAS setting of 15 specified by the manufacturer sticker.

Then I tried just increasing the multiplier to 3200. I was able to boot with it like that so I ran a couple cinebench runs and was able to beat my previous score (all other factors the same, memory at 3000) by 40.

After this I increased it to 3400. I didn’t change the timings at all, still just running the timings from the XMP profile. I was still able to boot and my cinebench score jumped by another 40.

Then I decided to get a little wild and try the Ryzen DRAM Timing Calculator and after I figured out how to fill in its desired starting values (it’s pretty easy you just tell it what your RAM is and your desired clock speed) it spits out so many numbers you’re supposed to enter into your BIOS memory timings screen. Unfortunately even using the “safe” settings I wasn’t able to boot using its output. I’m not advanced enough to know what most of those settings output by the calculator are and how they are dependent on each other so I don’t really know how to troubleshoot which one(s) need to be tweaked.

So right now I’m stable at 3400MHz at 15-17-17-35 1.35v. So for the 4 (5 really, my bios has a 4th setting that always matches the second and third timing setting in the standard list so 15-17-17-17-35) main settings is there a good strategy for lowering those incrementally? Like, maybe try 14-16-16-16-30 or am I missing some math that needs to happen? I have a feeling I’m leaving some performance on the table and I feel like I’ve been really lucky with this RAM because it’s nothing special (Hynix C-die 1-rank) and being able to get 3000 RAM up to 3400 with default timings seems kind of rare.

GutBomb fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Nov 27, 2018

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

That's cool. I really look forward to doing some RAM overclocking if EVGA ever releases their Dark z390 board and if I ever recieve my ordered 9900k.

Wengy
Feb 6, 2008

Got a 9900k on sale and basically just put the multiplier to 47. What else should I change in the BIOS to accommodate this type of mild overclock?

B-Mac
Apr 21, 2003
I'll never catch "the gay"!

Wengy posted:

Got a 9900k on sale and basically just put the multiplier to 47. What else should I change in the BIOS to accommodate this type of mild overclock?

Well the stock all core turbo is 4700 MHz and stock two two core turbo is 5000 MHz for the 9900k. Setting your all core multiplier to 47 is actually making your cpu slower when its using only a few cores.

Wengy
Feb 6, 2008

B-Mac posted:

Well the stock all core turbo is 4700 MHz and stock two two core turbo is 5000 MHz for the 9900k. Setting your all core multiplier to 47 is actually making your cpu slower when its using only a few cores.

lol, I'm an idiot. Thanks for the heads up. So it would make more sense to just set it to an even 50?

Wengy fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Nov 30, 2018

Perplx
Jun 26, 2004


Best viewed on Orgasma Plasma
Lipstick Apathy
If you can do 50 that's great, my 9900k only does 49. That all cores though, you should be able to set the 2/3/4/8 core speeds separately too.

Lockback
Sep 3, 2006

All days are nights to see till I see thee; and nights bright days when dreams do show me thee.
Yeah, my impression on the 9900k was there wasn't a ton left on the table and the stock turbos are already pretty good. I haven't had much experience with the 9900ks though.

B-Mac
Apr 21, 2003
I'll never catch "the gay"!

Wengy posted:

lol, I'm an idiot. Thanks for the heads up. So it would make more sense to just set it to an even 50?

50 all core seems to be what more people are aiming for. I’m mostly looking for silence in my builds these days and undervolt both my cpu and GPU. Running stock I can drop my 9900k down to 1.168V, much lower than what my board was giving it on auto, 1.3V or so.

Wengy
Feb 6, 2008

Just checked again in that rather confusing Gigabyte BIOS: turbo boost is enabled and the multiplier for the different cores is set accordingly (e. g. at "50" for 1 and two cores and so on, my manual setting of "47" being the lowest). Do I have it right that this means that the CPU won't go lower than 4.7 Ghz no matter how many cores are running and will turbo up to 5 Ghz as it would with the stock setting?

CheddarGoblin
Jan 12, 2005
oh
Does anyone with a newer Corsair AIO (h115i and the like) know of an alternative to the LINK software?

It's fine for the most part but it has one glaring feature omission that I really need which is the ability to dynamically control the pump speed. You can set it to quiet or performance, and that's it. It won't change based on temps or anything. For the most part quiet mode is fine as it doesn't seem to make a difference for most tasks, but for some things that are CPU heavy (battlefield 5 at the moment) performance mode will cut a whopping 10c off my cpu temp, and allow the fans to run slower as a result. Net result is a quieter PC under load, but the pump whine is just too much while idle. So I'd like to change dynamically or at least be able to set a hotkey or something to do it manually.

dertylol
Jun 11, 2014
Hello. Quick Specs: Intel 8700k OC'd to 4.7Ghz (47 multiplier and 100bclk), corsair vengeance lpx 16Gb DDR4 3000Mhz memory, MSI GTX 1060 6G, MSI Z370-a pro Motherboard, INWin Commander 850w 80+ Bronze PSU and a Corsair H100i v2
Problems: VID and Frequency tank under Prime95 (both using the latest version with AVX and version 26.6 that doesn't use AVX), during my last run of it, my frequency dropped to 800Mhz while my temps remained hovering at 70c and the load remained at 100%. I'm at as loss as you what could be causing this issue?
I've turned off EIST, Intel Turbboost (It still says enabled in my bios? but it is also greyed out), and set LLC to mode 4. If anyone has any ideas on what could be causing this and how to resolve it, that would be a amazing! I'd like to see if this thing can push 4.8-4.9 but with it acting the way it is, i'm hesitate to push it higher

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

dertylol posted:

Hello. Quick Specs: Intel 8700k OC'd to 4.7Ghz (47 multiplier and 100bclk), corsair vengeance lpx 16Gb DDR4 3000Mhz memory, MSI GTX 1060 6G, MSI Z370-a pro Motherboard, INWin Commander 850w 80+ Bronze PSU and a Corsair H100i v2
Problems: VID and Frequency tank under Prime95 (both using the latest version with AVX and version 26.6 that doesn't use AVX), during my last run of it, my frequency dropped to 800Mhz while my temps remained hovering at 70c and the load remained at 100%. I'm at as loss as you what could be causing this issue?
I've turned off EIST, Intel Turbboost (It still says enabled in my bios? but it is also greyed out), and set LLC to mode 4. If anyone has any ideas on what could be causing this and how to resolve it, that would be a amazing! I'd like to see if this thing can push 4.8-4.9 but with it acting the way it is, i'm hesitate to push it higher

What are you using to see your CPU temperature? Dropping to 800mhz is the normal behavior for the CPU trying to save itself from drastic overheating but that usually happens around 99C on Intel so perhaps you're not seeing the true temperature value. I usually use HWInfo64's sensor window and it seems to be pretty accurate and I've seen a lot of people post with inaccurate numbers using other software, although it could certainly be something else.

B-Mac
Apr 21, 2003
I'll never catch "the gay"!
Could be VRM throttling as well, not sure how good the boards vrms are.

mewse
May 2, 2006

dertylol posted:

Hello. Quick Specs: Intel 8700k OC'd to 4.7Ghz (47 multiplier and 100bclk), corsair vengeance lpx 16Gb DDR4 3000Mhz memory, MSI GTX 1060 6G, MSI Z370-a pro Motherboard, INWin Commander 850w 80+ Bronze PSU and a Corsair H100i v2
Problems: VID and Frequency tank under Prime95 (both using the latest version with AVX and version 26.6 that doesn't use AVX), during my last run of it, my frequency dropped to 800Mhz while my temps remained hovering at 70c and the load remained at 100%. I'm at as loss as you what could be causing this issue?
I've turned off EIST, Intel Turbboost (It still says enabled in my bios? but it is also greyed out), and set LLC to mode 4. If anyone has any ideas on what could be causing this and how to resolve it, that would be a amazing! I'd like to see if this thing can push 4.8-4.9 but with it acting the way it is, i'm hesitate to push it higher

There's a whole section in hwinfo64 that can show what is triggering throttling, if that is what's happening.

Lockback
Sep 3, 2006

All days are nights to see till I see thee; and nights bright days when dreams do show me thee.
What is your AVX offset set to?

You said it was happening both with and without AVX tests, but if that is the offset maybe your "non-AVX" test isn't really non-AVX.

eames
May 9, 2009

dertylol posted:

Problems: VID and Frequency tank under Prime95 (both using the latest version with AVX and version 26.6 that doesn't use AVX), during my last run of it, my frequency dropped to 800Mhz while my temps remained hovering at 70c and the load remained at 100%. I'm at as loss as you what could be causing this issue?

Sounds like it is throttling because of the stock CPU current limit. I'm not familiar with that motherboard but there's usually a BIOS option to override it (at your own risk etc).

e: I found this, is your BIOS up to date? https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=293935.0

dertylol
Jun 11, 2014

Rexxed posted:

What are you using to see your CPU temperature? Dropping to 800mhz is the normal behavior for the CPU trying to save itself from drastic overheating but that usually happens around 99C on Intel so perhaps you're not seeing the true temperature value. I usually use HWInfo64's sensor window and it seems to be pretty accurate and I've seen a lot of people post with inaccurate numbers using other software, although it could certainly be something else.

I use both Coretemp and Corsair link, but I will run another test once I download HWInfo64!

I'll double check my bios, apparently this was an issue that was fixed? Thanks for the info!

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.
So despite this being the OC thread, would someone be able to answer a question about undervolting a GPU? I have an EVGA 1080, and at stock it's running at 1900mhz and 1.05v. I read a post about using Afterburner to open the frequency graph and shift the max stock clocks back to, say, 0.95v and smooth the curve out. Is there a more correct way to do this?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

So despite this being the OC thread, would someone be able to answer a question about undervolting a GPU? I have an EVGA 1080, and at stock it's running at 1900mhz and 1.05v. I read a post about using Afterburner to open the frequency graph and shift the max stock clocks back to, say, 0.95v and smooth the curve out. Is there a more correct way to do this?

What is your goal there? People undervolt GPU when mining where the goal is to make the most imaginary coins per watt. In anything else you're better served to just overclock it as far UP as you can.

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

VelociBacon posted:

What is your goal there? People undervolt GPU when mining where the goal is to make the most imaginary coins per watt. In anything else you're better served to just overclock it as far UP as you can.

Roughly similar performance for slightly less power? Or just to play around with.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Roughly similar performance for slightly less power? Or just to play around with.

The way GPU boost works you get a great tradeoff for the power when it comes to games. The wattage cost is only something that matters when you're running the cards 24/7. If you paid for a modern GPU it makes sense to try to use all that power.

eames
May 9, 2009

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

So despite this being the OC thread, would someone be able to answer a question about undervolting a GPU? I have an EVGA 1080, and at stock it's running at 1900mhz and 1.05v. I read a post about using Afterburner to open the frequency graph and shift the max stock clocks back to, say, 0.95v and smooth the curve out. Is there a more correct way to do this?

The right way to do it is to simply drag every point right of the desired maximum voltage well below the target frequency. When you press apply it will straighten it out automatically. Not a very elegant solution but that’s how it works.


VelociBacon posted:

The way GPU boost works you get a great tradeoff for the power when it comes to games. The wattage cost is only something that matters when you're running the cards 24/7. If you paid for a modern GPU it makes sense to try to use all that power.

Modern GPUs run way past their optimal efficiency target. Depending on the factory OC and quality of the chip you can sometimes save 30-40% power vs stock settings without a noticeable performance loss (~5%) which is worth it to people who care about s quiet system.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

eames posted:

The right way to do it is to simply drag every point right of the desired maximum voltage well below the target frequency. When you press apply it will straighten it out automatically. Not a very elegant solution but that’s how it works.


Modern GPUs run way past their optimal efficiency target. Depending on the factory OC and quality of the chip you can sometimes save 30-40% power vs stock settings without a noticeable performance loss (~5%) which is worth it to people who care about s quiet system.

Right but if you've paid the big money for the modern cards isn't it worth it to get all the FPS you can out of it considering the difference between doing so and not doing so is probably $5 a month in electricity?

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

eames posted:

The right way to do it is to simply drag every point right of the desired maximum voltage well below the target frequency. When you press apply it will straighten it out automatically. Not a very elegant solution but that’s how it works.

Points to the right? So it turns into like a bell curve?

VelociBacon posted:

Right but if you've paid the big money for the modern cards isn't it worth it to get all the FPS you can out of it considering the difference between doing so and not doing so is probably $5 a month in electricity?

Idk, I just think its neat I can get mostly stated performance with less power :shobon:

eames
May 9, 2009

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Points to the right? So it turns into like a bell curve?

No, all dots right of the target voltage should be dragged lower than the dot of your desired target voltage/frequency. It doesn’t matter how low, just lower. I can make a screenshot later if you want.

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

eames posted:

No, all dots right of the target voltage should be dragged lower than the dot of your desired target voltage/frequency. It doesn’t matter how low, just lower. I can make a screenshot later if you want.

So like this:

eames
May 9, 2009


yes!

(1) you start with the default curve, (2) set an offset (optional, i chose +120), (3) then drag all points past the desired voltage/frequency to anywhere below and (4) press apply. when you start a 3D load you'll see a dotted horizontal line that shows you the current frequency, it won't move past your desired point.

that's how i do it anyway. note that afterburner seems a bit buggy and often messes with the tail end of the curves, but those are voltages that a default card will never reach anyway.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

eames posted:

yes!

(1) you start with the default curve, (2) set an offset (optional, i chose +120), (3) then drag all points past the desired voltage/frequency to anywhere below and (4) press apply. when you start a 3D load you'll see a dotted horizontal line that shows you the current frequency, it won't move past your desired point.

that's how i do it anyway. note that afterburner seems a bit buggy and often messes with the tail end of the curves, but those are voltages that a default card will never reach anyway.



Interesting! I'll definitely have to play with that tomorrow, thanks!

eames
May 9, 2009

One thing I forgot to mention is that Pascal cards behave strange when you push them to their absolute voltage/frequency limit, they lose performance even though they remain stable at higher frequencies, likely because of some error correction happening in the background.
The solution is to just back off the frequency a bit, in my case the card would run stable at +150 offset but I only run +120 MHz.

B-Mac
Apr 21, 2003
I'll never catch "the gay"!

VelociBacon posted:

Right but if you've paid the big money for the modern cards isn't it worth it to get all the FPS you can out of it considering the difference between doing so and not doing so is probably $5 a month in electricity?

It’s not necessarily about saving $. Boost 3.0 will start dropping clocks as the temps go up. Most pascals GPUs hit 1.043/1.05V at stock, often you can cap your V at 0.983-1.0V and still maintain the same clocks due to lower temps.

Lower temps let folks run lower fan speeds as well for better silence. I’m long past the days of shoving all the voltage I can and cranking the fan speed for the last 4% of performance

My 1080t runs 1950mhz @ 1.0V, overclocking only nets me 2012 @1.083V but comes with much more heat and nose from running the fans faster. With this mild undervolt I can run my fans at 50% and never hear it.

Same with my 9900k. I run the stock 4.7ghz all core with 1.168V. Heatsink and case fans run at 750 rpm and I can never hear them. Silence is bliss for this old geriatric.

yergacheffe
Jan 22, 2007
Whaler on the moon.

I just built a new Ryzen 2700 system and am having trouble getting it to idle at lower voltages/frequency when doing manual overclock. This is a fresh win 10 install and the steps I did are:

-install b450 chipset drivers from amd's site
-enable AMD Ryzen balanced power plan in windows
-install latest bios, reset all settings to default
-change turbo multiplier to 40x, vcore to 1.32

When I do the last step, cool and quiet turns off in the bios. I can re-enable it but it doesn't seem to do anything as all my cores stay pegged at 40x.

My mobo is MSI B450M Gaming Plus. I'm reading conflicting reports on whether it's even possible to do this anymore because of the spec in agesa 1.0.0.6. Anybody have any luck with this or can point out if I'm doing something horribly wrong?

GutBomb
Jun 15, 2005

Dude?

yergacheffe posted:

I just built a new Ryzen 2700 system and am having trouble getting it to idle at lower voltages/frequency when doing manual overclock. This is a fresh win 10 install and the steps I did are:

-install b450 chipset drivers from amd's site
-enable AMD Ryzen balanced power plan in windows
-install latest bios, reset all settings to default
-change turbo multiplier to 40x, vcore to 1.32

When I do the last step, cool and quiet turns off in the bios. I can re-enable it but it doesn't seem to do anything as all my cores stay pegged at 40x.

My mobo is MSI B450M Gaming Plus. I'm reading conflicting reports on whether it's even possible to do this anymore because of the spec in agesa 1.0.0.6. Anybody have any luck with this or can point out if I'm doing something horribly wrong?

Is the windows power plan set to balanced or high performance? It won’t ramp down on high performance. And make sure if you use balanced don’t use the “AMD balanced”. That was a stopgap mode when the original zen chips first came out.

yergacheffe
Jan 22, 2007
Whaler on the moon.

Mine was set to the AMD Ryzen balanced plan. Setting it to the regular Windows balanced seems to have done the trick, thanks!

Edit:



Picture is during IntelBurnTest. Looks like I'm converging on 4.0GHz. I tried doing 4.1 but I couldn't achieve stability even with 1.45Vcore, so I stopped because I didn't dare feed it any more voltage. GamersNexus managed 4.0GHz @ 1.162V, which seems like a super low voltage. Anyone else have experience with this chip?

yergacheffe fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Dec 11, 2018

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

Fun Shoe
Have you tried using Ryzen master and bumping the speed on your fast cores only?

yergacheffe
Jan 22, 2007
Whaler on the moon.

Ah no didn't think of trying that since I'm too used to the days of overclocking through BIOS only. Interesting that you can't set individual turbos in BIOS but you can in Ryzen Master. I'll play around with it some more and see if I can squeeze out more performance for single-threaded work. It also seems to play nicer with power saving since my BIOS overclock wouldn't lower the Vcore and tended to take about ten minutes before it would lower the CPU frequency, while RM seems to power down in seconds.

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Fingat
May 17, 2004

Shhh. My Common Sense is Tingling



So I built a 9700k system last week, and this week I played around with some overclocking and was looking on a second opinion or two on the results and where to go. Its been a while since I've done any OC's on a CPU. Before this I had a 2500k at 4.2 for 7 years. I'm on a Aorus z390 Elite, and cooling on air with a Noctua NH-D15s. I had a mild goal of 5ghz and had to up the voltage to 1.33 to get it happy enough to last in some tests. During my Prime95 test after about 10-12min my 4th and 6th cores started to climb up over 80c and ended up spiking up to 87 before it blue screened and I decided to dial it back. I went down to 4.9 and up to 1.34 volts and that seemed to make it more happy. Prime 95 went for over 20 min and those 2 hot cores only hit 83c briefly at the end and it had no errors. It then made it through a couple real bench sessions without errors as well. So am I ok to think this is stable enough, and settle or should I see if I can make this happy at 5 somehow? I could add more volts to 1.35 but then I would think those cores would get hotter quicker in that situation? Is there some other tweak in the bios to help? I followed a couple guides on the different options, but this z390 has way more options than the previous board I used on the 2500k.

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