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Smoove J posted:Looking for cheap ultrawide lenses that I can adapt to my x-t3 (zoom or prime, does not matter). Budget is cheap, not even $150, I am not looking for the creme de la creme, just want to play around with an UW. I am not buying the Fuji 8-16mm for $2k, at least not yet. I've got a Nikon G adapter and a Canon EF-S adapter, I'm happy to get another adapter if need be. Lenses I'm looking at: Canon EF-S 10-18mm, Sigma 8-16mm, Nikon 20mm f3.5 AIS, and that's it, though that 20mm length is probably too big for what I really want. Any thoughts about what is out there? Any thoughts about a Rokinon 12mm? I like the f2, and it's pretty cheap, relatively...
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Dec 4, 2018 16:15
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Well I found a guy selling a RRS L-bracket for a decent price  Now it's down to upgrading the current tripod to an Arca Swiss lever mount, or just getting a whole new tripod that comes with a lever mount. So far not finding any tripods that come with an Arca Swiss lever mount though. Does such a thing exist, or is that always going to be an upgrade component? (Looking in the 2.5lb range, which is what my current one is my)
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Dec 4, 2018 18:17
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The Rat posted:Well I found a guy selling a RRS L-bracket for a decent price How about just get a tripod head with a lever mount? Why get a whole new set of legs?
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Dec 4, 2018 18:45
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That's an option too. I've just never seriously looked at tripod stuff before, so I'm trying to consider all options. Even if I did buy a whole new tripod, the current one would have a use. It would go to my spotting scope. I've never really thought much about it before, but the compact tripod that came with it kinda sucks, and the plastic leg flip locks are starting to break. Edit: the more I think about it, a whole head seems like a good option since it would be a solid unit that I could transfer over if I decide to upgrade legs at some point. The Rat fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Dec 4, 2018 |
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Dec 4, 2018 18:52
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Don't buy bundles. If you want legs, buy a set of legs. If you want a head, buy a head. Trying to get a combo is going to require too many compromises if there's a specific setup you're after.
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Dec 4, 2018 19:04
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Thoughts on the Canon 17-40 F4L IS vs the 17-40 F2.8L on a 5dMk3? Basically looking to replace the ol' Tamron 17-50 now that I'm full frame.
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Dec 4, 2018 21:35
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Does shallower depth of field matter to you? If not, I bet the f/4 IS would be better.
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Dec 4, 2018 21:36
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Personally, I prefer a faster lens than IS. It's nicer to look through when composing, af works better in low light and it's better for capturing moving subjects in low light.
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Dec 5, 2018 00:52
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N'th-ing that Really Right Stuff is Really Good Stuff, but very far from the only company doing what they're doing. This said, I feel obligated to remind people that Joe Johnson is an "equal but separate" kind of guy who donated $16,000 to California's Prop 8 gay-marriage-ban efforts back when that was going on, so keep this in mind if that's important to you. e: I'm not taking a position that it should or shouldn't matter; gay marriage is currently protected (in theory) under Obergefell. But I'd be willing to put a table bet on how he feels about "exceptions based on closely-held religious belief", too, so... just choose where you can live with and your money going. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Dec 5, 2018 |
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Dec 5, 2018 01:28
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I have a tripod dilemma as well. I like medium format film cameras and have always found my Oben 1451 to be suitable for everything from a Kiev 60 to a G690. I got it for a bargain price and feel like it's been decent for an 'off brand' tripod. But it's no match from the shutter on my Pentax 6x7. The first curtain hitting the end of its traverse can produce a wobble that's visible when observing the camera on the tripod, and it shows up in images made at speeds from 1/2 to 1/30, even with mirror lockup and cable release. My current functional solution is to tie a small rope around the head and dangle a 7.5lb athletic weight from it. This ensures good results, but it's a pain to carry around and set up, so I need to streamline things. Cheapest and simplest would be to grab a new counterweight hook assembly and screw it into the bottom of the central shaft. (My unit was a floor display model and didn't come with any of the usual bits and poo poo.) This would work but still necessitates carrying around the extra metal. The other option is a new tripod and head. At least one person online has mentioned the Bogen 3047 as a dependable head unit for the Pentax. It takes a wide hexagonal baseplate, and the legs on that particular combo (Bogen 3047) have telescoping braces. Both are features that the Oben lacks (its plate is relatively small and its legs only connect at the top), but it's otherwise comparable in size and has the same sort of pan/tilt head, so I still have my doubts that it will do what I need. I mean, the Oben is rated for 13lbs; it seems to me like it should do the trick, but it doesn't. Any thoughts? I guess it kind of depends on how much experience you have with tripods and heavy/vibration-prone cameras. I'd kind of be taking a shot in the dark if I bought the Bogen. Best case scenario it completely eliminates the need for carrying additional weights, but maybe it would at least lessen the amount needed. There's also this wooden tripod with a similar Bogen head. I've read that wood makes an especially good material for camera vibration dampening, but again, I'm mostly flying blind here.
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Dec 6, 2018 04:57
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I have a tripod dilemma as well. I like medium format film cameras and have always found my Oben 1451 to be suitable for everything from a Kiev 60 to a G690. I got it for a bargain price and feel like it's been decent for an 'off brand' tripod. Is there some reason you're set on a Bogen head? Neither of the ones in your links look particularly good. What's your price range?
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Dec 6, 2018 05:30
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sounds like your tripod head isn't sturdy enough. put your camera on, lock it down, and if you press down at the end of the lens and it bounces a few times before coming to rest, then there's your problem big and sturdy ball heads are where it's at. a lot of people like sirui. I have a giottos rated for 33lb and it's Very Sturdy even with huge and heavy things. no shake at all.
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Dec 6, 2018 05:44
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Sirui and Markins make pretty solid heads for MF cameras, but you'll have to get the larger end ones.
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Dec 6, 2018 07:06
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If the problem is sorted out by hanging a weight off the tripod I doubt the issue is just that the head doesn't lock hard enough. It might help, but I don't think the problem will be solved without beefier legs too (or just dealing with bringing some extra weight along to brace the legs.)
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Dec 6, 2018 16:42
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MrBlandAverage posted:Is there some reason you're set on a Bogen head? Neither of the ones in your links look particularly good. What's your price range? some guys on photo.net posted:I use a Bogen 3058 with 3047 head. Its heavy (17 lbs) but works great. I have shot with the 300mm many times at 1/8 sec and had sharp results quote:ended up with an 8½ # rig with a Gitzo 1320 Studex and Bogen 3029 Head that is just the right combo of carry-ability and vibe controllability. Just trying to control vibes here. Not set on any brand. If I could swing a tripod that does the job with no niceties (ie a heavy/old and beat-up/used model) for around $200, great. Otherwise, well, I need what I need...up to around $400. I kind of thought a heavy duty ball head might be better than another pan/tilt, but I'm not sure what a good brand or model is for handling a P67. Based on how the whole Oben tripod kind of shakes when the big camera fires, I thing I need better legs in addition to a better head. It's not like I'm completely ignorant of tripods, but what I've found is that 'heavy duty' 'professional' and 'high weight capacity' are all aspects that don't necessarily translate to 'can handle a Pentax 6x7' and I could easily make an expensive mistake in buying something that isn't going to cut it.
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Dec 6, 2018 17:53
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SMERSH Mouth posted:It's not like I'm completely ignorant of tripods, but what I've found is that 'heavy duty' 'professional' and 'high weight capacity' are all aspects that don't necessarily translate to 'can handle a Pentax 6x7' and I could easily make an expensive mistake in buying something that isn't going to cut it. Both those tripod heads you linked look extremely flimsy for a Pentax67 and nowhere near heavy duty or professional. If you want geared movement, try the Arca-Swiss Cube or D4 series tripod heads. I have the Cube and it doesn't move a millimetre with my huge and heavy MF macro rail setup.
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Dec 7, 2018 07:09
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Well, guess I'm glad I asked. Obviously the feedback in this thread so far isn't on board with what the off-site posters were saying about those heads. Thats a pricy counteroffer though. Photography is an expensive hobby, but the Pentax 6x7 (not 67II) is a value-priced entry in its range. I love mine and hate to say it, but if I had $1,500 to drop on the Cube, I'd probably have a Mamiya 7 instead and wouldn't need a top-tier geared head anyway. (Probably. But then again if I was flush I might just have a nice late-model 67...they're the most badass looking cameras in the 6x7 format.)
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Dec 7, 2018 07:42
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Well, guess I'm glad I asked. Obviously the feedback in this thread so far isn't on board with what the off-site posters were saying about those heads. The Pentax 67 is value priced because it's heavy and big. Maybe you can consider this head: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1217470-REG/manfrotto_405_pro_dgtl_geard.html
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Dec 7, 2018 08:51
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Thanks. I guess now I've got the information I need to make the right choice on a head. Would a leg set that includes a spreader be advisable?
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Dec 7, 2018 16:42
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I'm looking for a cheaper alternative to pocket wizards. Anybody have experience using offbrand triggers?
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Dec 7, 2018 17:36
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drowningidiot posted:I'm looking for a cheaper alternative to pocket wizards. Anybody have experience using offbrand triggers? For the price, Cactus triggers have always worked really well for me. The V5 were really good basic no-frills remote triggers but the v6 and v6II are impressive as they have TTL etc. I would probably still be running Cactus triggers had my gear not been stolen earlier this year. I've since re-geared (went from Canon to Sony) and bought a godox flash and trigger which have been shockingly good for the price. I've used them indoors and out, at really long distances and have had zero issues. I like that my flash has wireless built in therefore it doesn't need its own transceiver. My only complaint is that the XT1 trigger is kind of bulky but thats not a deal breaker. For "budget" wireless, I can't complain.
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Dec 7, 2018 19:14
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Godox is the system to buy into from a value and features perspective.
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Dec 7, 2018 19:19
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Dakana loves the gently caress out of his godox stuff
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Dec 7, 2018 20:55
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Two things: recommendation for a good, compact flash for Fuji Camera insurance? Anyone know of a good place to insure gear against damage or theft?
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Dec 7, 2018 21:01
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holocaust bloopers posted:Two things: recommendation for a good, compact flash for Fuji Assuming Fuji X stuff. Official options are slim pickings (and pricey). The EF-X20 fills the compact requirement, but is not going to be very versatile. I have two Godox speedlites (685, 860) which are good but huge. The 350 is more compact but I haven’t used one. Don’t know in which country you are, but I just have my gear as specified valuable items covered an all risks clause in my household insurance.
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Dec 7, 2018 21:17
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Edit: mostly beaten by above Godox TT350F. Get it with the bundled XT1 trigger. But be warned: compact flashes (ie 2xAA rather than 4xAA battery) are not as strong, although I've heard that the 350 is still decent for daylight fill flash. I use my 685 bounced off an umbrella in low light outdoor portrait shooting and I'm not sure the 350 would be able to keep up with something like that... I don't know about insurance, but from what I've heard it works better as a rider on an existing (home or auto) plan. Getting standalone coverage is something that pros who make most of their money with that gear do, afaik. My usual routine is just to get the extra warranty coverage when I but the gear. I've made claims and had stuff repaired or replaced and it's worked out well. Doesn't cover you from unrecovered theft or other situations where the gear 'disappears' though.
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Dec 7, 2018 21:22
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Yeah insurance is likely best on your homeowners/renter's policy. Damage maybe not so much, but definitely theft.
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Dec 7, 2018 21:40
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Cool. I’m leaning towards a Godox. Just something to cover as a light full flash. I’ll look into renter’s insurance.
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Dec 7, 2018 21:43
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The Lithium versions of the V350 are available for Fuji as well, which last a lot longer than the 2xAA models.
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Dec 7, 2018 21:52
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*Godox* I've got the 860II and its physically huge (like most flagship flashes are) and bright but the lithium battery surprised the hell out of me. During most full day weddings, I burn through 8-12 AA eneloop batteries. This past wedding (12 hours of shooting) I was still showing 75% battery left when I packed my gear for the night. The recharge time is less than a second at full power, at half/quarter power you never even notice a recharge and it will last all day. I was skeptical about the lithium battery but its been amazing. *Insurance* I still hate talking about insurance. My house was broken into earlier this year and all my gear was stolen. Years ago when my wife and I first moved in together, she set up the policy. I wish I had been more involved in that process because I would have realized how under insured we were. Her engagement and our wedding rings were insured on a separate jewelry rider but we didn't have nearly enough coverage for other stuff. When we were broken into, they took my handgun, all of my photo/gopro gear, an old laptop, my wifes sony DSLR. All in, our loss was slightly more than $10k. We had $25k worth of coverage but I didn't realize that they have individual buckets of coverage. $3k firearms, $2k jewelry, $2k electronics, $2k business coverage, $2k wardrobe, etc. They would only cover up to that amount in each category. They covered my gun but I lost a whole lot more than $2k in electronics, but due to my policy all they could give me was $2k for my camera gear. At the end of the day, our loss was something like $10,500 and our check from the insurance agency was only $4,500. I was pissed. I tried contesting it several times but with no avail due to the limitations of my policy. The crazy thing is that it was all physically small stuff. They left our house with 2 backpacks and a small duffel bag and walked away with $10k worth of belongings. I wouldn't have realized we were even broken into had the back door not been kicked in. They didn't trash the place or anything. A proper agent will discuss with you the pros and cons of different ways to insure your gear. Be honest with them in how you use your gear. They will want to know if your gear is for personal or business use. If you make any money off your gear, it will change the policy they need to insure your gear. If you make money on it, they need to know that. If you lie to them and they ever find out you do make money on it, they can refuse your claim and you wouldn't get any money for it. They will need purchase receipts or appraisals, serial numbers/prof of insurance. We've since tripled our overall coverage, increased certain buckets to meet our needs, and I created a separate rider for my photo gear. With the check, I only managed to replace the bare essentials to shoot a wedding (A7iii, Sigma art 24-70 2.8, Godox 860ii flash/trigger, extra batteries, backpack, lightsphere etc). My 50 1.4, 85 1.4, 70-200 2.8 will have to wait to be replaced when I have more cash, same goes for my handgun. poo poo sucks. Lessons learned: Pay for the proper insurance coverage and be honest about it. Inventory literally every piece of gear you have with its make/model, serial number, receipt or purchase info, and possibly a photo of said equipment. Google sheets is an easy way to do this. Just create a spreadsheet and start inventorying your gear. Even memory cards. Everything has value and replacing it costs money. Also, gently caress thieves. If they had tried breaking in the day before when I was working from home, it would have had a much different outcome. Verman fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Dec 7, 2018 |
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Dec 7, 2018 23:46
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holocaust bloopers posted:Two things: recommendation for a good, compact flash for Fuji Nissin i40 is a good flash depending on how compact you consider compact - it’s definitely smaller than most and it’s held up quite well since I got it however many years back I got the x-t1.
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Dec 8, 2018 05:28
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Since insurance talk has come up again, anyone have a recommendation for insurance for photography as a very small side business? I'd like my gear fully insured against theft and damage, but also a little bit of liability insurance. I shoot nature/landscape and don't do bookings/events so much, so I don't have much worry about breach of contract issues, but I think I'd want at least a little bit of insurance in case my festival canopy collapsed and killed somebody's dog or something... But it's mainly for the gear.
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Dec 8, 2018 18:47
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Liability insurance is going to be separate from any on your gear. Talk to whoever handles your home or renters. They can point you in the right direction.
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Dec 9, 2018 03:39
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If there's any pro Aus shooters reading, I go through PPIB and have had one claim with them, paid out within 48hrs of the claim going through. Highly recommended. and for more general advice, don't underinsure yourself. I didn't have my light stands or light modifiers covered when some rear end in a top hat stole that log bag. You learn the hard way.
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Dec 9, 2018 06:06
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I have a basic question about memory cards. I forgot my Sandisk ultra pro whatever I usually use at home and bought a random "Infinitive" microSD with adapter at Walgreens for $12 and it seems like it works perfectly in my X100F shooting Raw + JPEG [~53 megabytes each]. The Walgreens card is marked "Class 10" on the packaging and has the "MicroSD CH I" and the 1 in a bucket logo on the card itself. To get to the question what "class" or grade of card do I actually need? I'm not going to look at this thing as the peak of reliability but if I can buy cheaper/bigger name brand cards that would be cool as well.
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Dec 11, 2018 19:49
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qirex posted:I have a basic question about memory cards. I forgot my Sandisk ultra pro whatever I usually use at home and bought a random "Infinitive" microSD with adapter at Walgreens for $12 and it seems like it works perfectly in my X100F shooting Raw + JPEG [~53 megabytes each]. The Walgreens card is marked "Class 10" on the packaging and has the "MicroSD CH I" and the 1 in a bucket logo on the card itself. To get to the question what "class" or grade of card do I actually need? I'm not going to look at this thing as the peak of reliability but if I can buy cheaper/bigger name brand cards that would be cool as well. If you're just doing photos and don't need like crazy burst shots or a ton of 4K video then most knock-off name class 10 cards are going to suit you just fine, but yeah I'd still be leery of their overall reliability.
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Dec 11, 2018 20:35
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DJExile posted:but yeah I'd still be leery of their overall reliability. I think my photos are worth at least an extra $10 to have a card with a lower failure rate than a Walgreen's special. (well, to be honest, maybe a full card full of my photos is worth almost that)
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Dec 11, 2018 21:49
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Yeah, I'm talking about buying $25 Sandisk cards instead of $55 ones.
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Dec 11, 2018 22:51
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qirex posted:Yeah, I'm talking about buying $25 Sandisk cards instead of $55 ones. Ah, yup, that is a wise move. Sandisk is an awful lot of marketing bollocks. As DJExile says with his usual wisdom, just buy whatever class your camera needs and ignore all that 'XtremeMegaXtremePro' shite.
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Dec 11, 2018 23:15
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The Xtreme ones are supposedly built to meet a larger temperature range. Great for things like dash cams where they can range from 0F to 150F.
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Dec 11, 2018 23:16
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