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darnon posted:The needle and needle seat should come as a matched pair. The fine needle kit I got also came with a different flow regulator (the part that screws on and holds the needle seat) but I've used the regular F marked one with no issue. Yeah that's what I was thinking, I read it as you and the other replies thought I was trying to just get a 0.2mm needle and use it with 0.3mm nozzle/regulator, while I was actually looking to see if it's possible to get a 0.2mm conversion kit ( so needle, nozzle, regulator) for my regular Patriot 105. But it's highly possible I'm still just confusing the issue more than necessary. I have a plan now anyway: mail Badger and ask if the ultra fine Extreme kit will fit the original 105.
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# ? Dec 6, 2018 20:48 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 08:12 |
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IPA Regulations posted:while I was actually looking to see if it's possible to get a 0.2mm conversion kit ( so needle, nozzle, regulator) for my regular Patriot 105. I don't think there is a .22mm kit for the Xtreme. For that it looks like you need to go to the Renegade Krome.
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# ? Dec 6, 2018 23:09 |
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Ellaybee posted:So, having taken a few decades off painting minis, I’m picking it back up again and enjoying the hobby again. I do have a few questions though that I may bring here, starting with this one: I’ve watched maybe a hundred videos about wet palettes and picked up one of Masterson’s and replaced the included paper with plain old Reynolds parchment paper. I think you have too high of expectations. Wet palette should keep your paints good for long painting sessions, not overnight. Just mix custom paint blends in empty pots if you’re going to do that.
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# ? Dec 6, 2018 23:41 |
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Ellaybee posted:So, having taken a few decades off painting minis, I’m picking it back up again and enjoying the hobby again. I do have a few questions though that I may bring here, starting with this one: I’ve watched maybe a hundred videos about wet palettes and picked up one of Masterson’s and replaced the included paper with plain old Reynolds parchment paper. Doctor Zero posted:I think you have too high of expectations. Wet palette should keep your paints good for long painting sessions, not overnight. Just mix custom paint blends in empty pots if you’re going to do that. Indeed. Wet palettes are great and I love mine but people who claim you can use them to work from the same pool of paint for multiple days must be either liars or wizards: I’ve never been able to get get result. I use mine to work from one or two drops of paint a time for hours at a stretch, which is way better than a dry palette can manage, but always put new paint on the palette for a new painting session.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 00:10 |
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darnon posted:I don't think there is a .22mm kit for the Xtreme. For that it looks like you need to go to the Renegade Krome. I found one listed here: https://www.dickblick.com/items/25099-2003/ But when I was looking earlier on my laptop it seemed to only list the Extreme as compatible... But now I'm looking on my mobile it lists the regular Patriot 105, so I'll probably end up getting it. In good news I gave my 0.3mm another good clean before trying it again tonight and the needle stopped sticking so it's probably not bent was just residue in the nozzle that I missed. Happy days!
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 00:30 |
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The super detail kit should be only .3 mm.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 01:18 |
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I did some boyz, pretty fun but I am gonna do some other models before I do more.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 02:57 |
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20 genestealer cultists down. At this rate I’ll have most of a playable army by the time the codex comes out.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 06:16 |
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Stephenls posted:Indeed. Wet palettes are great and I love mine but people who claim you can use them to work from the same pool of paint for multiple days must be either liars or wizards: I’ve never been able to get get result. I use mine to work from one or two drops of paint a time for hours at a stretch, which is way better than a dry palette can manage, but always put new paint on the palette for a new painting session. Seems to depend heavily on the paint - Scale75 tend to split a bit after around 24 hr, but can be re-combined and are good for a few days. The metallics are a pain - they get too thin and the pigment goes every which way.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 08:12 |
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Stephenls posted:Indeed. Wet palettes are great and I love mine but people who claim you can use them to work from the same pool of paint for multiple days must be either liars or wizards: I’ve never been able to get get result. I use mine to work from one or two drops of paint a time for hours at a stretch, which is way better than a dry palette can manage, but always put new paint on the palette for a new painting session. I'm very newbie in the hobby so take this with a grain of salt, but I use a low profile Tupperware box with a lid and, if I don't forget to put the lid back on, my paint doesn't really dry for several days. If anything it gets diluted more and I have to add a bit more paint the next day. Furism fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Dec 8, 2018 |
# ? Dec 7, 2018 11:10 |
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My Tupperware palette w paper towel and parchment paper will last for weeks as long as the lid goes on when I'm done. It does need water added at least every other session. I'm using liquitex heavy body acrylic paint if that has anything to do with it. It's fairly thick to start with, but I have had it separate on a fresh soaked palette.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 13:51 |
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Another Tupperware palette checking in. Citadel and p3 paints stay wet on it for at least 4-5 days. I haven't tried longer yet. Maybe the official expensive ones you guys are buying aren't airtight
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 16:14 |
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Tupperware here. Packaging open cell foam, paper towel, and boiled parchment paper. How different paints react on mine overnight depends from bottle to bottle seemingly regardless of brand. Some bead up, others turn thick and gloopy, others separate and try running all over the drat place.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 16:38 |
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darnon posted:Tupperware here. Packaging open cell foam, paper towel, and boiled parchment paper. How different paints react on mine overnight depends from bottle to bottle seemingly regardless of brand. Some bead up, others turn thick and gloopy, others separate and try running all over the drat place. What does boiling the parchment do?
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 17:08 |
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Iron Crowned posted:What does boiling the parchment do? I think it breaks it down a bit so it doesn't curl as bad.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 17:50 |
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Looking to try wet blending for the first time on the lotr fellbeast wings. Anybody have any tips for colours and stupid mistakes to avoid? Was thinking of skavenblight dinge as the base colour, blended with a black one end and lighter grey the other. but I'm a complete novice with colour selection. Am I over complicating this?
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 19:05 |
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Scunthog posted:Looking to try wet blending for the first time on the lotr fellbeast wings. Anybody have any tips for colours and stupid mistakes to avoid? One thing that helped me was to block in your desired “start” and “end” colors of your blend. This gives you a good basecoat to start off with. Drying retarder will make your life a lot easier. Your color selection seems fine; I would suggest premixxing your paints and keeping them in droppers for consistency. It takes a lot of practice and can be frustrating but the results are neat once you get the hang of it. Good luck!
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 20:17 |
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always be closing posted:I think it breaks it down a bit so it doesn't curl as bad. Neat gonna try this out.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 20:23 |
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Hixson posted:One thing that helped me was to block in your desired “start” and “end” colors of your blend. This gives you a good basecoat to start off with. This is the best suggestion. After you've done this apply some of each colour really quickly over the top of the base coats and quickly drag the paints into each other, feathering the brush like a duster as you join them together. Generally you want to pull the paint in the direction you want the colour to end, so if you want a perfectly even blend, feather down from one colour and up to to the other ending in the middle, otherwise weight the brush strokes away from the direction you want to be the dominant colour, pushing and dragging the paint as you go.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 20:29 |
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always be closing posted:I think it breaks it down a bit so it doesn't curl as bad. You'll still get curling if it starts to dry out, but primarily it'd been mentioned it can help boil out any extra coating that'd impede water flow. Also why I have the layer of paper towel as sometimes the sponge doesn't pass water fast enough to keep things wet when the humidity is low. If you're going to be storing for a few days it's also a good idea to add a splash of hydrogen peroxide to keep things from going moldy.
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# ? Dec 7, 2018 21:32 |
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darnon posted:You'll still get curling if it starts to dry out, but primarily it'd been mentioned it can help boil out any extra coating that'd impede water flow. Also why I have the layer of paper towel as sometimes the sponge doesn't pass water fast enough to keep things wet when the humidity is low. If you're going to be storing for a few days it's also a good idea to add a splash of hydrogen peroxide to keep things from going moldy. Jumping on the wet palette tip train: To stop curling, put your parchment down, get it wet, and then flip it over. Should be good to go. Toss 2-3 pennies (hopefully fellow have stockpiled a few) under your sponge/paper towel to stop mold. Failing that, use a splash of rubbing alcohol. Less likely to react with anything.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 00:20 |
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Scunthog posted:Looking to try wet blending for the first time on the lotr fellbeast wings. Anybody have any tips for colours and stupid mistakes to avoid? Haven't tried wet blending myself yet, but I like this guy so might as well refer you to that video!
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 00:55 |
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I'm trying to get back into minature painting, and I have a problem. I've developed some mild hand tremors, and was wondering if you fine folks had any tips for dealing with that in regards to painting.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 01:04 |
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Twincityhacker posted:I'm trying to get back into minature painting, and I have a problem. I've developed some mild hand tremors, and was wondering if you fine folks had any tips for dealing with that in regards to painting. When you're painting hold the heels of your hands together so that any shakes are shared across both your brush hand and mini hand, rather than shaking independently of each other. If that makes any sense...
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 01:19 |
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I usually never had much luck with wet blending, the paint always dried too fast and gave me tearing even trying Vallejo retarder. Typically I'd have to do an intermediary mix and then blend with glaze-thinned versions of the end colors. However, over Thanksgiving I was painting up some Gloomhaven minis and trying out new techniques and attempted wet blending with a little W&N flow improver I've been using and it worked much better at keeping things wet enough long enough to get good wet blending going on similar to this. (Mostly did it on the cloak of the brute so you really can't see it, but good time as any to xpost this from the Gloomhaven thread)
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 01:30 |
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Thanks for all the tips. Had some success and disaster. Main issues where with paint thickness, similatanously to thick and to think, and streaky brush strokes from inconsistent paint thickness I'm guessing. Been using Vallejo retarder, want to try glaze medium next to thin the paints a bit more consistently. Unfortunately I've gone over a couple of sections so many times trying I think I'll have to strip some paint off. I wish I'd picked a smaller mini or at least started on the underside so mistakes didn't matter as much.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 09:49 |
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Scunthog posted:Thanks for all the tips. Had some success and disaster. Main issues where with paint thickness, similatanously to thick and to think, and streaky brush strokes from inconsistent paint thickness I'm guessing. Retarder isn’t going to help with thinning, just keeping your paint from drying quickly. Honestly, water is just fine for thinning.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 11:49 |
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Cross-posting my golden boys and girls:
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 20:02 |
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I painted my Eyes of the Nine.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 21:25 |
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i've been using vallejo primer through an airbrush, and recently started noticing how fuckin' easy it is to chip it off/otherwise wreck the prime job. does anyone have recs for good black airbrush primers? i was decanting krylon for a while but i'd prefer to avoid aerosol cans altogether if i'm able.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 22:39 |
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Stynylrez is my airbrush primer of choice. Prefer gray, but they have black and a ton of other colors.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 22:41 |
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:i've been using vallejo primer through an airbrush, and recently started noticing how fuckin' easy it is to chip it off/otherwise wreck the prime job. does anyone have recs for good black airbrush primers? i was decanting krylon for a while but i'd prefer to avoid aerosol cans altogether if i'm able. Stynylrez.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 22:44 |
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:i've been using vallejo primer through an airbrush, and recently started noticing how fuckin' easy it is to chip it off/otherwise wreck the prime job. does anyone have recs for good black airbrush primers? i was decanting krylon for a while but i'd prefer to avoid aerosol cans altogether if i'm able. Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 black
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 22:47 |
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Stynylrez black is like magic, excellent coverage, leveling, and very little drying of the tip. It drys very hard and I've never had it chip or wear down to plastic.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 23:32 |
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Yeah I've only ever had it wear off when it wasn't fully dry, it's very forgiving as well even if you overspray it.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 23:37 |
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I use gesso and really like it.
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# ? Dec 9, 2018 00:15 |
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Fourthing Stynylrez.
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# ? Dec 9, 2018 02:03 |
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Dont use gesso
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# ? Dec 9, 2018 03:15 |
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ijyt posted:Stynylrez. Booyah- posted:Stynylrez black is like magic, excellent coverage, leveling, and very little drying of the tip. It drys very hard and I've never had it chip or wear down to plastic. grassy gnoll posted:Fourthing Stynylrez. Fifh
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# ? Dec 9, 2018 16:17 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 08:12 |
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I've been working a knight for months now, and though I'm finally getting close to finishing I've pretty much run out of ideas regarding her heraldry. After googling for it, I posted about finding any existing Ultramar heraldry in the 40k thread, but apparently there's no such thing. I've spent the last few days working on some simple stuff I might be able to actually recreate on the model. Please excuse the slightly lovely pictures, I'll take better ones when I'm all done. The knight in question: I've finished the right shoulders since taking that picture, shown below. Some of my less terrible ideas: The left one was my starting point, and is sort of my favourite. I'm worried that it'll be too similar in color to the rest of the knight. The design is from artwork of Marneus Calgar sitting on a throne, with a red banner across his knees. I added the U to make it more Ultramar, since it's otherwise a bit too generically Imperial. The one on the right might be better with the red and blue reversed, sort of a red planet floating in space. Making the halo smaller didn't help, possibly making it even larger so the edges only shows up in the corner might work? I call the last one "the full weaboo". The problem is that one unpainted panel. I'd like to repeat the aquila on the rear panel to maintain the proper Imperial heraldry, but I've toyed around with doing something across both panels as well. The problem there is that spiky bit in between, it'll interfere quite a bit with any designs. I colored the concepts in paint, so the shades are only approximate. I'm mostly worried that having a full aquila next to the half one on the adjacent panel will look a pit stupid. A slightly lesser worry is distinguishing the heraldry enough from the rest of the knight so it looks clearly different. Red, gold and silver is going to be pretty close to the knights personal heraldry. I have a bunch of transfers I can use, vehicle transfers for both IG and SM, as well as the Knight sheet and AdMech stuff. Using some of them would reduce the chance of a major disaster, and is the main reason for such boring designs. I'm not opposed to freehanding some parts though, so feel free to suggest something different too. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated, I'm getting a bit tired of staring at that last panel. I'm pretty pleased with the knight so far, and I'm terrified of loving up this last bit.
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# ? Dec 9, 2018 18:19 |