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duffmensch posted:I’d get the Delta since it’s cheap as poo poo and has auto bed leveling (unless you want to spring for the Mini Pro), even if you do lose 10mm in all 3 axis. I think that's the way to go. I appreciate the advice. Auto bed leveling is a massive quality of life thing for 3d printing.
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Dec 4, 2018 17:03
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Nerobro posted:I think that's the way to go. I appreciate the advice. Auto bed leveling is a massive quality of life thing for 3d printing. agreed, I bought one of those IR sensors from filastruder and modified my firmware to add it to my cheap JGAurora, and it's the best thing ever.
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Dec 4, 2018 17:42
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The cheap Monoprice delta has a really short lifespan in my experience, but YMMV.
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Dec 4, 2018 18:31
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Mostly for the fun of it, but I decided to see how small a layer height I could go on my wanhao I3. Usually I print between 0.2 and 0.3. Printed this face on a rock at 0.08 x 0.33. Fairly happy with how it came out, but it does look like I have other little issues that lower layer height won't fix. Full size benhy for scale. Face is about 12mm tall.
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Dec 4, 2018 19:17
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My pallette 2 gets delivered tomorrow. They released the octoprint plugin already so I should be able to get it up and running fairly quickly.
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Dec 4, 2018 20:21
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Nerobro posted:Nothing is noisier than an open plan office. Consider this a protest. :-) Hobbyking stopped selling the Fabrikator because they made a better one. The Fabrikator V2, but it seems to be frequently out of stock. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-fabrikator-v2-3d-printer-us-plug.html?___store=en_us I have one and I've been using it as the small parts desktop printer. The V2 is better in pretty much every way to the V1, which I have used a few times. Notable improvements are the aluminium frame, 100mm3 build envelope instead of 80mm3, PEI build plate coating and SD Card. My only complaint was that a few of the nuts and bolts needed tightening when I received it, having come loose in shipping. If the US version isn't in stock the only difference with the other localisations is the cable for the PSU, so you can just get the AUS one for example and put a US plug on it. When I bought mine the EU one was on offer £10 less so I just bought that and threw on a spare British plug when it arrived. Print quality is way better than a printer this price has any right to. This is basically a function of the small build platform. Smaller is stiffer, so even though it has weedy little linear components there is no resonance, wiggle or other rigidity issue that typically plagues cheap printers.
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Dec 5, 2018 02:34
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The cheap Monoprice delta has a really short lifespan in my experience, but YMMV. What wore out on yours? My bed kept getting warped so I used a 5” mirror and haven’t had any problems beyond that.
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Dec 5, 2018 03:13
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Prusa Mk3 ordered. Merry XMas to me!
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Dec 5, 2018 06:31
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duffmensch posted:What wore out on yours? My bed kept getting warped so I used a 5” mirror and haven’t had any problems beyond that. The embedded stepper drivers kept dying. Also there is no way to adjust the current if the specific one you get isn't giving enough power to one of the axis steppers.
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Dec 5, 2018 11:53
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My Voron is starting to take shape. Still waiting for that specific bed probe before I can assemble the head. Then I'll have to start cabling (  )
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Dec 5, 2018 11:55
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The embedded stepper drivers kept dying. It's pretty trivial to slap a cheap ramps board in there if that happens. I'll probably do that with the one I got for $80 on Black Friday, along with some drylin bushings to replace the noisy as gently caress linear bearings on it.
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Dec 5, 2018 23:59
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I just calibrated my CR-10's e-steps / mm - the original measurements were showing that I was about 3% under-extruded. I didn't think that 3% was a big deal until I did a print with the modified value in the firmware - noticeably, obviously more evenly extruded over the entire surface of the object. Calibrate your extruder, kids. Worth it.
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Dec 6, 2018 05:13
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r.y.f.s.o. posted:I just calibrated my CR-10's e-steps / mm - the original measurements were showing that I was about 3% under-extruded. Combat Pretzel posted:My Voron is starting to take shape. Still waiting for that specific bed probe before I can assemble the head. Then I'll have to start cabling ( That's gorgeous, can't wait to see how it prints! I don't neeeeeed another printer, but that's a tempting looking build. What's the cost so far, if you don't mind me asking?
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Dec 6, 2018 12:54
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Just crossed the 1500€ (two Prusa kits). Probably some money to be saved by going with cheaper extrusions than pre-tapped and -drilled Misumi ones, a cheaper source of screws than eBay (hardware stores are notoriously poo poo over here), the dual RAMPS from the BOM instead of Einsy Rambos, and sticking to 12V as the default instead of 24V for cheaper parts. A lot of things came from AliExpress, but I shopped also a bunch in Europe, that pushed the price a bit. The price includes the enclosure, for ABS and such, altho I went with PC instead of acryl as per BOM.
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Dec 6, 2018 15:34
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I got Palette 2 last night. Here is my 2nd print. 1st print using canvas online slicer didn’t come out right. I used Simplify 3D and Chroma (the desktop app) on 2nd print and worked really well. 
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Dec 6, 2018 15:52
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ClassH posted:I got Palette 2 last night. Here is my 2nd print. 1st print using canvas online slicer didn’t come out right. I used Simplify 3D and Chroma (the desktop app) on 2nd print and worked really well. Awesome! What printer are you running?
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Dec 6, 2018 17:38
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:It's pretty trivial to slap a cheap ramps board in there if that happens. I'll probably do that with the one I got for $80 on Black Friday, along with some drylin bushings to replace the noisy as gently caress linear bearings on it. That is literally more time/effort than its worth for me
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Dec 6, 2018 18:30
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mattfl posted:Awesome! What printer are you running? Ender 3.
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Dec 6, 2018 19:08
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ClassH posted:Ender 3. Digging mine - my first two prints were crap, then I realized my version of Cura had a lovely Ender 3 config. After updating my benchy was pretty good. Also in hindsight buying black filament then trying to take pics to share wasn't the best of ideas.
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Dec 6, 2018 19:58
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Am I right in thinking that there's a bump or catch in the z axis travel that is likely causing the horizontal lines visible here? Some notes: - CR-10, stock firmware - Was present before and after I installed a second Z-axis leadscrew and motor - Printed in Vase mode, 1mm nozzle @ .6 layer height - 45 mm/s, 4200mm/s acceleration limit, 15 mm/s jerk limit - lines were present before I calibrated e-steps (when this was taken) but are STILL present after e-steps calibration - happens on multiple prints with multiple filaments As a test, I stretched the model 200% along Z and reduced 50% along X and Y to create a tall, skinny version of this - when I printed it, and placed the two models side by side, the lines still matched up. They appear to be regularly repeating themselves up the length of the print every 29-ish mm or so. Since the lines are not moving relative to the model, but instead stayed in place relative to the printer, am I right in thinking that this is perhaps some sort of physical issue that is displacing the print head slightly as it travels up the Z axis?
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Dec 6, 2018 20:54
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r.y.f.s.o. posted:Am I right in thinking that there's a bump or catch in the z axis travel that is likely causing the horizontal lines visible here?
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Dec 6, 2018 23:59
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peepsalot posted:Just a stab in the dark, but maybe check that the Z wheels and rails they ride in are clean and smooth, no flat spots, dents etc? I think that's a fair shout, I checked the right-hand side during installation of the second Z leadscrew but didn't want to mess with the left side yet. I don't know what this means, but I just printed a test cylinder, same printer, same settings, same filament, and there are NO matching lines on the cylinder. It does have sections where a line is a micron displaced compared to the one below and above it - just not at the same heights as the boxes i sent upthread. IDK. I'll just do the needful and troubleshoot.
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Dec 7, 2018 05:29
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Is anyone else doing some 3d printed holiday gifts for family or friends? My cousin's kids are going to get some of these venus boxes with ball bases in xmas colors. This prototype is in amazon basics blue PETG, but I'm doing the final ones in PLA gold, and red and green transparent PETG (one for each daughter). The girls probably will care more about getting chocolate inside the boxes but I think it'll look nice since they'll have a similar look to glass ornament balls.  I'm working on a couple of magic the gathering deck boxes and dice boxes for some of my tabletop nerd friends. The wood PLA I used earlier in the thread is turning out nicely but I need to work on staining it a bit better. Considering real wood hexagonal dice boxes are $25-40 I think it's a nice idea to print one (I'm guessing one of the companies that sell real wood ones keeps getting the design taken off thingiverse, it goes to 404 but shows up as the first result for a "dice box" search). Seems like a weird thing to try to get removed since there's a bunch of remixes of the top and the files are all over the place. https://www.dropbox.com/s/et5v3xx7tljukfx/hex-dice-box.zip?dl=0
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Dec 9, 2018 18:29
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Rexxed posted:Is anyone else doing some 3d printed holiday gifts for family or friends? My cousin's kids are going to get some of these venus boxes with ball bases in xmas colors. This prototype is in amazon basics blue PETG, but I'm doing the final ones in PLA gold, and red and green transparent PETG (one for each daughter). The girls probably will care more about getting chocolate inside the boxes but I think it'll look nice since they'll have a similar look to glass ornament balls. I'm doing a mix of laser cut and 3D printed stuff for gifts. For my wargaming buddies, it's terrain bits.   For other people we were still looking for ideas. We were thinking of laser engraved tiles or coasters, especially of people's pets. One relative has a fish tank, so we were thinking an acrylic cut or engrave of one of their pets that they can put in the fish tank. I like that dice box, we've been looking for fun dice storage. I found a laser cut version on Thingiverse we'll probably cut for ourselves. Those venus boxes are cool, but I don't know what I would put in them as gifts.
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Dec 9, 2018 18:49
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It probably depends on who's getting it. I mostly consider the box to be the main gift since it can be used for a small amount of storage and is just kind of neat. Plus with these kids their folks get them a ton of stuff every year and so they don't need much. Most of the stuff I'm making is for folks I don't usually exchange gifts with or if I do I keep it at $20 max or something. I liked Angus from Maker's Muse's idea of making puzzles with cool looking filament but I haven't decided if I'm going to make any yet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCRuCFI2CGQ I was thinking about making the NASA wrench they printed on the ISS for a desk ornament for a friend who would appreciate it. I'd probably use carbon fiber PLA or something sufficiently space-y looking:  https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/detail/wrench-mis https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/station/research/news/3Dratchet_wrench NASA has a few other cool 3d printable models: https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/models/printable
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Dec 9, 2018 19:43
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My nephew gets a ticket to Gamescom next year. I printed one of those puzzle boxes to put it in so he has to work for it!
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Dec 10, 2018 11:53
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Everyone in my family is getting puzzle boxes as well with cash inside. I'm printing a special one for my brother which is actually 4 puzzle pieces in one. This one, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2410748 The one that holds a giftcard is for my wife's aunt who she says is going to loose her mind trying to figure it out lol https://imgur.com/a/gBlhDdZ
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Dec 10, 2018 13:44
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mattfl posted:Everyone in my family is getting puzzle boxes as well with cash inside. I'm printing a special one for my brother which is actually 4 puzzle pieces in one. I've printed these a couple times. They always go over great. I am actually using the openscad to generate a new maze for this round because the current maze is a little easy on the inner ones.
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Dec 10, 2018 16:18
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I installed the TH3d unified firmware on my Ender 3, and I've double triple checked that the settings are as suggested for my printer - but all of a sudden, I'm getting layer shift along the Y axis. It's repeatable, and consistent at a certain part of the baby Groot I'm printing - specifically, the free-floating hand out to the left of the body - meaning, I think, that the print head has to accelerate to that location, causing the belt to slip, maybe? I've tightened the belt on both axes, and all that did was cause the slip to reverse directions - instead of translating the subsequent layers to the front of the printer, now it's translating them a mm to the back. Am I right in thinking that the new firmware is causing accel to be handled differently? I'm using acceleration and jerk control in Cura - I was previously husing print accel values of 500 mm/s and travel accel of 5000 mm/s in Cura with the stock Creality Marlin, with no issues. As soon as I upgraded to TH3d, I've gone as low as 333 mm/s for print accel and 3000 mm/s for travel accel, and it's still shifting layers along Y. Am I thinking in the right direction, hopefully?
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Dec 10, 2018 22:16
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Turns out that (probably) my glass bed was slipping around on the heated plate, due to a clip that had popped off without me knowing. At least it was an easy fix.
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Dec 11, 2018 17:27
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Hey so Makerbot's big announcement is a 7000 USD dual nozzle printer with a smallish build platform (~6in) and $79 spools of filament (can't find a word about how much filament is per spool but it looks like <1kg based on a shipping weight of 0.8kg but that might just be the PVA) Oh sorry did I put you all to sleep
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Dec 11, 2018 18:36
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The Eyes Have It posted:Hey so Makerbot's big announcement is a 7000 USD dual nozzle printer with a smallish build platform (~6in) and $79 spools of filament (can't find a word about how much filament is per spool but it looks like <1kg based on a shipping weight of 0.8kg but that might just be the PVA)  In other news I bought an Ender 3 and it's arriving tomorrow. I haven't cleared a spot to set it up yet and I'd like to get it printing before Christmas. I've got stuff to move and shelves to assemble and I'm printing stuff on the maker select nonstop for the holidays. 
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Dec 11, 2018 19:29
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I've got several well-tuned printers available right now for printable upgrades for the Ender3 I just got. Any suggestions on a "must do" list for it?
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Dec 12, 2018 00:02
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The Eyes Have It posted:Hey so Makerbot's big announcement is a 7000 USD dual nozzle printer with a smallish build platform (~6in) and $79 spools of filament (can't find a word about how much filament is per spool but it looks like <1kg based on a shipping weight of 0.8kg but that might just be the PVA) Makerbot couldn't make a $2500 dual-nozzle printer worth a poo poo. Maybe the $7000 version will work as well as the $800 clone I had of the $2500 printer.
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Dec 12, 2018 00:23
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insta posted:I've got several well-tuned printers available right now for printable upgrades for the Ender3 I just got. Any suggestions on a "must do" list for it? I don't have mine yet but some of the lists I've seen have some good ones. Fan cover guard (the fan points up so stuff can just drop into it): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204 filament guide: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932 petsfang cooler: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 cable guides/clips/cable chain (may not be necessary, gonna wait until I get mine to see if I want these): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761965 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 There's a ton of other printable mods but these are the ones that looked good to me to start with. This guy's Youtube channel has a bunch of videos about upgrading his Ender 3, some of which I've watched. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq2IKp3jeaY
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Dec 12, 2018 01:32
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Hey all, I've had my Ender 3 for a few months now, and all has been well up until recently. I'm having what I think is adhesion issues. The print seems to pop off the bed (sticking to the nozzle and making a huge mess) about halfway through print. First few layers go down great though, and it is a glass bed. I have never needed to do anything special to the bed besides clean it, and it has just worked, until recently. The only thing I have found definitely 100% wrong was the Z-axis leadscrew had come loose from the coupler. I tightened that up, checked the bed for level, and I'm still just not having any luck. So it certainly seems like adhesion is still not right, but I have no idea why. I still consider myself a newb and I'm out of ideas.
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Dec 12, 2018 03:07
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Wiping my (PEI) bed down with acetone always cures my adhesion issues, try that.
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Dec 12, 2018 03:16
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Fillamentum Extrafill might be my new favorite filament. I used their Vertigo Galaxy PLA to print this gently caress you puzzle box for my brother lol https://imgur.com/a/RvXgDJV
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Dec 12, 2018 13:54
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That looks really nice. Any extrusion/nozzle issues with the glittery filler?
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Dec 12, 2018 14:13
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ReelBigLizard posted:That looks really nice. Any extrusion/nozzle issues with the glittery filler? None at all, printed just like normal PLA at the same temp I print everything at, 210/60
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Dec 12, 2018 14:21
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