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AIO question: I have an h100i V2, and someone suggested replacing the fans. My question is why, and with what? I didn't really see a great answer when I tried googling it.
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Dec 1, 2018 13:44
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Don't bother. The fans it comes with are fine.
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Dec 1, 2018 17:11
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Noise reduction. But these Noctuas, especially that new A12x25, are expensive.
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Dec 1, 2018 17:33
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The fans are perfectly quiet though when you adjust the curve
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Dec 1, 2018 19:14
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I've got a Koolance pmp-450S (24v) and I need to start looking for a replacement as I've gotten way more than 50,000 hours out of it. So I've got what you'd call a non-standard setup, where my loop is very long (think 30 feet long) so I need a pump that will operate under a fairly high head pressure. I was thinking of replacing my 450S with a pmp-600 because it's pretty much the same footprint, runs the same voltage, but has a higher output, does anyone have any experience with that specific pump?
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Dec 11, 2018 15:51
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I'm looking to build my first custom loop. I used the EKWB configurator and it is suggesting a 360 rad up front and a 120 rad in the back. I'm running an overlocked 8700k and a rtx2080ti. Are two radiators overkill? Should I just go with a 360 up front?
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Dec 14, 2018 15:03
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Partial Octopus posted:I'm looking to build my first custom loop. I used the EKWB configurator and it is suggesting a 360 rad up front and a 120 rad in the back. I'm running an overlocked 8700k and a rtx2080ti. Are two radiators overkill? Should I just go with a 360 up front? You doing CPU+GPU in the loop? Go bigger imo. 2x 360 will do you well. If you can do 420s that would be better as 140mm fans are superior for cfm/noise
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Dec 14, 2018 16:46
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rage-saq posted:You doing CPU+GPU in the loop? Go bigger imo. 2x 360 will do you well. If you can do 420s that would be better as 140mm fans are superior for cfm/noise Oh drat I underestimated how much I needed. I am doing cpu+gpu in the loop. The most I can fit in my case is a 240 up top and a 360 up front. Will it be super loud with that config?
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Dec 14, 2018 16:53
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Partial Octopus posted:Oh drat I underestimated how much I needed. I am doing cpu+gpu in the loop. The most I can fit in my case is a 240 up top and a 360 up front. Will it be super loud with that config? Probably. I certainly wouldn’t go less than 240+36, but given the investment you are walking into, I would look into a case that does at least 2x 360 if not 2x 420.
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Dec 14, 2018 18:45
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Partial Octopus posted:Oh drat I underestimated how much I needed. I am doing cpu+gpu in the loop. The most I can fit in my case is a 240 up top and a 360 up front. Will it be super loud with that config? Hmm, I have an overclocked 4790k and a 1080ti on the same loop and my rads consist of a single 120 in front and a 240 up top. I am using Corsair PWM fans. The noise is barely a problem for me under heavy load and the temps are well under control. EK waterblocks and Alphacool rads. I don't think you will have an issue.
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Dec 14, 2018 18:47
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Built a custom loop for a guy a year ago. His GPU is dead so having me swap it out. Dual loop, massive radiators, tons of fluid so it takes forever to drain. Well there is algae in the loops. Hes gonna end up paying me $500-$700 to tear down, clean all his blocks, clean his rads, clean his tubes, refill, etc... Dont do watercooling unless you are filthy rich or can do it yourself.
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Dec 14, 2018 19:09
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Don Lapre posted:Built a custom loop for a guy a year ago. His GPU is dead so having me swap it out. Dual loop, massive radiators, tons of fluid so it takes forever to drain. I will never recommend water cooling to someone that doesn't want to learn about it, know how to assemble/work on it, etc. That being said, it sounds like a lack of distilled water and a biological additive was not used? You should not have algae problems in a build and that 100% sucks to deal with. My closest issue to that would be Mayhems coolant that leeched white 'chaulk' and required a tear down. My rig cost a forture when I built it but I've had little issues with maintenance except for a single rebuild. On the flip side, I save tons of money NOT upgrading my machine because I hate tearing it down. Saving money by spending money! 
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Dec 14, 2018 19:41
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jink posted:I will never recommend water cooling to someone that doesn't want to learn about it, know how to assemble/work on it, etc. That being said, it sounds like a lack of distilled water and a biological additive was not used? You should not have algae problems in a build and that 100% sucks to deal with. My closest issue to that would be Mayhems coolant that leeched white 'chaulk' and required a tear down. Yea, he brought me premixed coolant and maybe it was bad or something? Dunno.
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Dec 14, 2018 20:10
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On that note, what's the best way of cleaning out a loop these days? Not looked into it in a while and my loop is due a flush
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Dec 14, 2018 21:55
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Partial Octopus posted:I'm looking to build my first custom loop. I used the EKWB configurator and it is suggesting a 360 rad up front and a 120 rad in the back. I'm running an overlocked 8700k and a rtx2080ti. Are two radiators overkill? Should I just go with a 360 up front? I have a overclocked GTX 1080 and a i9-9900k running on a single 420mm radiator and it works fine while barely making any noise. For 99% of my usage my fans and pump never rise out of their 30% idle PWM throttles. All I did was swap one of the plugs on the GPU block with an XSPC thermristor plug, then set my radiator fans and case fans to gradually start ramping up from idle when the coolant temp hits 35C, reaching 100% throttle at 45C. The pump is set to start ramping up its throttle at 40C with 100% throttle at 50C because honestly idle on it is good enough since 100% on the (D5) pump circulates the entire volume of the loop in probably less than 2 seconds which is ridiculously overkill. After ~15 minutes of gaming the coolant hits 36-37C and the fans barely rise out of their ~600 RPM idle setting, most of the time they don't even exceed 800 RPM and the coolant temperature pretty much stops there like it hit a (cold) concrete wall. The GPU basically never climbs over 50C, and outside of prime 95 AVX or other similar torture tests that pull >200w through them the CPU cores rarely pass ~70C. Right now my system has been idle for several hours, the ambient temp is 25C, the coolant temp is 27C, the GPU is a solid line at 30C and the CPU cores are all hanging between 28 and 30C. How many radiators you need depends on what exactly you want to accomplish with this build. If you want super low temperature deltas, then you need every last millimeter of radiator you can possibly cram into the loop combined with powerful high static pressure fans and a pump strong enough to circulate it every few seconds. But if you just want "good" temperatures without a lot of noise, one 360 will do it as long as you set reasonable goals. If I'm going to recommend one thing, it would be to get a coolant temperature sensor so you don't have to guess. My motherboard has two thermristor headers so I just use that, but there are also fan controllers out there that can use one and it makes a world of difference in how the fans and pump throttle. Basically your CPU might hit 70-80C but as long as your coolant is still 30C there is literally no point to ramping up the fans or pump whatsoever. An all copper 360+ mm radiator like the types most custom loops employ can easily dump 1000w and change worth of heat at a moderate noise level if you allow a ~15C temperature delta over ambient on the coolant.
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Dec 14, 2018 23:37
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Partial Octopus posted:Oh drat I underestimated how much I needed. I am doing cpu+gpu in the loop. The most I can fit in my case is a 240 up top and a 360 up front. Will it be super loud with that config? It should be fine. Your setup will draw maybe 300W at most for a typical game and maybe 500W at full system torture loads. This is the performance EK claim per 10K over ambient.  It's somewhat hard to know exactly what delta T you'll have and that graph may be optimistic but it's safe to say that 500W is attainable as long as you don't get just a single slim 360. You might need 2000 RPM if actually at absolute peak load for prolonged periods with 360+240, which will be relatively loud. That shouldn't happen in a game load and around 1000 RPM is probably what you can expect at most, which is still very quiet. More radiators mean you can get that lower -- my overkill dual 480 rads can get away with fans at 600 RPM for 2080 Ti + 9900K which is literally inaudible -- but that system should be quiet as long as you're not doing hybrid GPU + CPU rendering or something for an hour. E: Also, yes, get a temp sensor. No need to have the fans do much until coolant hits 40C, which takes some doing in most climates. Xerophyte fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Dec 15, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 00:00
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Skarsnik posted:On that note, what's the best way of cleaning out a loop these days? Not looked into it in a while and my loop is due a flush If there is nothing obviously wrong with it flush a couple gallons of distilled and then drain and put in your coolant of choice.
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Dec 15, 2018 00:04
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Skarsnik posted:On that note, what's the best way of cleaning out a loop these days? Not looked into it in a while and my loop is due a flush Mayhems Part 1 and 2. Part 1 if you want to take it all apart, since it's only used to clean the radiators. Part 2 is basically a detergent that you run through the loop.
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Dec 15, 2018 01:30
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Thanks both, not had a good look yet so no idea how gunked up it is That part 2 looks quite handy though, cheers
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Dec 15, 2018 07:26
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Xerophyte posted:E: Also, yes, get a temp sensor. No need to have the fans do much until coolant hits 40C, which takes some doing in most climates.
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Dec 15, 2018 23:00
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Combat Pretzel posted:Temp sensor means external fan controller? If so, what's the recommendation? Hopefully something that doesn't need a drive bay, given that I have none. I'd certainly love to not have the XFR temperature ratchet on my TR dick around with my fans all the time. You could but it might well not be needed, depending on your MB. I don't have an external controller. I've done the following 1. Attach this XSPC external sensor, same as someone mentioned previously, to my loop. I think ideally near the pump since it's probably the component that's most temperature sensitive, but I just have it out of the way; it doesn't matter that much. The 2 pin output is a standard so you can find other designs and brands. 2. Connect the temp sensor to a 2 pin temp sensor header on my motherboard. My Maximus XI Formula has 3 of those, because it's a high end bullshit board, but most enthusiast boards have one nowadays as I understand. 3. Use that temperature reading as the source for a custom PWM fan curve I've set in BIOS. Mine is pretty simple: I ramp from 20%/500 RPM at 40C up to 100% at 60C which is the highest coolant temp my D5 pump is rated for. 4. Connect the fan out I just set a ramp for to a PWM fan hub (this cheapass thing), which then connects to all my assorted radiator fans. You can skip the fan hub if you have enough headers, but I've ended up with 10 case fans in this build so I kinda needed one. Effectively, you want your radiator fans try to control the coolant temperature since that's what they're directly hooked into. Temporary fluctuations in cpu or gpu temperature are absorbed by the coolant, and the fans only bother to spin up if the coolant is absorbing enough heat that you actually need to care. I also had the pump's PWM response curve driven by the max of CPU/GPU temp for a while, since higher flow does cool the components slightly better. That seemed to have minimal impact and required the use of ASUS' motherboard software and not just BIOS which I didn't like, so I just set it to something like 30% and called it a day.
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Dec 15, 2018 23:44
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No temp sensor headers on my X399 Taichi. :|
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Dec 15, 2018 23:59
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Corsair makes this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B0725HP1J2 Which can presumably control PWM fans based off the temperature reading from am xspc sensor like the one listed in a previous post.
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Dec 16, 2018 00:24
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How often do you replace o-rings on fittings? I flushed, replaced my tubing since it was dyed, and refilled my loop earlier this year. The fittings and blocks are less than two years old.
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Dec 16, 2018 01:45
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Use an aquaero
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Dec 16, 2018 16:36
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edit: solved my issue
Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Dec 22, 2018 |
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Dec 22, 2018 17:39
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It's finally done    I burnt out the LED strip that came with the case by putting 12V through it so I'll probably experiment with another one to figure out where to put it. The reservoir side is kind of dark...but I kind of like the subtle effect. Also considering putting in a bypass for the filter since it absolutely kills the flow rate - I max out around 0.6GPM with TWO D5s in serial at max speed. But that's going to wait for my fingertips to heal and for a coolant change in...a year. In the meantime, though, I think it's doing alright: 
forbidden dialectics fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Dec 27, 2018 |
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Dec 27, 2018 00:51
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forbidden dialectics posted:
Deuce fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Dec 28, 2018 |
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Dec 28, 2018 15:44
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originalnickname posted:I've got a Koolance pmp-450S (24v) and I need to start looking for a replacement as I've gotten way more than 50,000 hours out of it. So I succeeded in actually doing this, I'm running a fairly low amount of flow but the temperatures speak for themselves, I guess... Protip, retrofitting a different pump in a bespoke "aio cooling solution"... yeah, don't do it, because it's more trouble than it's worth. that being said, I am fairly happy with the results:  hindsight being 20/20, I'd 100% build my own remote heatdump (fan and radiator) so I could have a lot more control over pressure drop and things like that.
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Dec 29, 2018 18:46
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forbidden dialectics posted:It's finally done Nice job! Looks great
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Dec 29, 2018 19:10
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Yea, EKWB biocide seems worth nothing.
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Jan 18, 2019 22:14
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Selling my alphacool 480mm ut60 if anyones interested. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3881095
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Feb 1, 2019 17:45
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Just installed my new Commander Pro. Seems nice in function, already allowed me to cut some fan noise. Once my XSPC water temp sensor is here, I'll switch the radiator fans to that thing too. The Ryzen temperature ratcheting due to Precision Boost is pretty annoying, so I can't wait for it to be gone. Also, the H700 is a pretty terrible and cramped case.
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Feb 1, 2019 19:08
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So kind of debating trying my first water-cooling build but want to know how much maintenance needs to get done once set up. A sealed system shouldn't need to be refilled but also wondering if you put dye into it if you need to clean or flush the system regularly
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Feb 9, 2019 19:02
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TipsyMcStagger posted:So kind of debating trying my first water-cooling build but want to know how much maintenance needs to get done once set up. A sealed system shouldn't need to be refilled but also wondering if you put dye into it if you need to clean or flush the system regularly Refilling shouldn't be the problem, no. But it is advisable to clean the system once a year or so. Dyes can do weird things in blocks and pipes, biocide can lose its effectiveness and gunk from inside the radiators can spread through the system. It's also a good opportunity to inspect o-rings and other weak points in the loop. You probably won't have to open up blocks unless you suspect a problem inside. So drain it, flush it and fill it back up. On that note, when building your loop make sure to provide an easy way to drain the loop from its lowest point. Nothing more frustrating than having to turn your entire system upside down to get all the water out.
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Feb 9, 2019 20:15
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TipsyMcStagger posted:So kind of debating trying my first water-cooling build but want to know how much maintenance needs to get done once set up. A sealed system shouldn't need to be refilled but also wondering if you put dye into it if you need to clean or flush the system regularly Things that can and will happen in custom loops: algae will eventually grow in anything that allows light exposure to the coolant (meaning, clear tubing + RGB LEDs shining on it for a couple hours a day). Additives inhibit growth, but eventually lose potency and should be replaced. Silver kill coils are another method, but using one will corrode and eventually destroy any nickel coating which is common in fittings and blocks, so only use that if you have no nickel in the loop. Generally if you want low maintenance, you should avoid clear tubing/light exposure, avoid dyes, always use distilled water with a manufacturer approved additive, and avoid mixing dissimilar metals. Copper/nickel/brass are ok together, but do not mix them with aluminum or silver. If you do all that, you should be able to get away with fairly long maintenance intervals, other than topping off the coolant as needed from evaporation. You can also make maintenance and flushing a lot easier on yourself by including fill and drain ports in the build, which is probably the best approach.
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Feb 9, 2019 20:35
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I'm currently living in a small-ish space. How do y'all deal with the issue of heat soak, that is, your room not having much heat capacity in the first place which results in your fans having to suck in hot air in order to blow air out the radiators? I'd previously gone crazy a few years ago with an EK-Predator 360 kit that covered both my i7 and GTX 980ti, and after a couple hours of something like Black Desert Online (which back then was, admittedly, not great to play with an unstable overclock) the ambient temp around the PC was rather warm! This lack of temperature differential certainly reduced the cooling power of my shiny expensive AIO and the stabilty/performance of my system went with it. Should I have gone for more radiators? Does carpeted flooring matter? Is the best placement of a PC tower on top of the desk where it has more room to breathe? I ask because I'm planning a new build with more thought going into sustaining high performance. Please save me from the idea of buying a stupid aquarium chiller or Alphacool Eiszeit now that I can afford it....
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Feb 10, 2019 15:28
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Your issue is ambient temps. Whether you have watercooling or air cooling has nothing to do with it. Open a window or get an air conditioner.
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Feb 10, 2019 15:31
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Use this radiator instead. https://modmymods.com/phobya-xtreme-nova-1080mm-radiator-35180.html
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Feb 10, 2019 18:05
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| # ? May 15, 2024 15:36 |
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You can't cool a water cooled system below ambient temp, that's not how thermal dynamics work. So yes, get some cool air in the room.
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Feb 10, 2019 21:18
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