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HalloKitty posted:The fact that you (probably) won't notice a performance difference doesn't mean the cooling effect is "placebo". If there's a measurable, repeatable difference that's outside of margin of error, that's surely beyond the definition of 'placebo'. We already established my incorrect usage of placebo. My point is that most setups won't ever put the type of sustained load required to overheat the controller. Also, that Puget systems article showed that hitting them with a bit of air is even more effective. Glue a fan to your m.2 device if you are serious about real performance.
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 03:40 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:45 |
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Real pros would have an nvme drive and just change the throttle thresholds themselves
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# ? Dec 8, 2018 05:36 |
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Amazon germany has the 4TB 860 QVO up for preorder at 345€, not a bad price for fast bulk storage. The 860 is 845€.
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# ? Dec 9, 2018 20:53 |
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LRADIKAL posted:My point is that most setups won't ever put the type of sustained load required to overheat the controller. Also, that Puget systems article showed that hitting them with a bit of air is even more effective. Glue a fan to your m.2 device if you are serious about real performance. While you're right, and I don't think anyone here is actually advocating going out and spending $20 to buy an extra heatsink for their SSD, many of us have a handful of leftover stick-on heatsinks from other projects (in my case, putting an AIO on my 1080Ti), at which point it's effectively a zero-cost option for something that might help.
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# ? Dec 10, 2018 01:26 |
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eames posted:Amazon germany has the 4TB 860 QVO up for preorder at 345€, not a bad price for fast bulk storage. The 860 is 845€. Seems to have been a pricing error - it's now 310€ for 2 TB and 620€ for 4 TB. Prices will probably fall closer to/after release, but at this point in time, the Crucial MX500 2 TB is a much better deal.
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# ? Dec 10, 2018 11:35 |
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So if I have an Angelbird PX1 on my HP EX920, right now the heat pad is set so that spans the flash itself within the enclosure. From the last page's discussion and the Gamers Nexus video, it sounds like I may want to revert to a simple PCIe adapter like the Lycom DT-120 or trim back the heat pad on the PX1? I'm using it in a Mac Pro that's my normal machine, but heavy sustained workloads are somewhat rare for it, and I'd rather not reduce the lifespan of the EX920 if I interpreted all of the information right.
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# ? Dec 10, 2018 18:06 |
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SourKraut posted:So if I have an Angelbird PX1 on my HP EX920, right now the heat pad is set so that spans the flash itself within the enclosure. From the last page's discussion and the Gamers Nexus video, it sounds like I may want to revert to a simple PCIe adapter like the Lycom DT-120 or trim back the heat pad on the PX1? Quick GIS of that looks like an oversize heatspreader, I'd just leave it. In a mac pro -- the trashcan one right? -- it's gonna stay pretty warm since the ambient temperate around it is gonna be pretty toasty. Also the thing about flash memory preferring to be warm is about data retention time, not overall flash lifespan. Worse data retention does theoretically lower total lifespan, because the controller has to re-write data that is getting fuzzy*. But that's a trivial number of writes added, versus endurance that's far more than what almost anyone will need. *this is why SSDs are not recommended for unpowered offline backups, because they can't do that while they're sitting on a shelf The heatsinks people should avoid are big finny ones with heatpipes, or worse waterblocks, that make contact with the flash.
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# ? Dec 10, 2018 19:16 |
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SourKraut posted:So if I have an Angelbird PX1 on my HP EX920, right now the heat pad is set so that spans the flash itself within the enclosure. From the last page's discussion and the Gamers Nexus video, it sounds like I may want to revert to a simple PCIe adapter like the Lycom DT-120 or trim back the heat pad on the PX1? Virtually everything in this heatsink/spreader conversation can be effectively summed up with It really doesn't matter to normal, sane users. I wouldn't bother spending the time to muck around with it if you've already got something on there.
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# ? Dec 10, 2018 21:29 |
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Klyith posted:Quick GIS of that looks like an oversize heatspreader, I'd just leave it. In a mac pro -- the trashcan one right? -- it's gonna stay pretty warm since the ambient temperate around it is gonna be pretty toasty. DrDork posted:Virtually everything in this heatsink/spreader conversation can be effectively summed up with Thanks both of you! For reference Klyith, it's an old cheese grater Mac Pro that I've upgraded as much as I can to keep it going (I have a Windows 10 desktop too for gaming/etc., but the cMP is for my every day use and occasional Final Cut Pro use and misc. photo editing programs I have and use). It gets decent air flow but under my normal daily use, the fans are pretty much minimum speed so while it is "warm" thanks to the X5690 in the system, it's not as warm as it is under load.
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# ? Dec 10, 2018 22:37 |
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DrDork posted:While you're right, and I don't think anyone here is actually advocating going out and spending $20 to buy an extra heatsink for their SSD, many of us have a handful of leftover stick-on heatsinks from other projects (in my case, putting an AIO on my 1080Ti), at which point it's effectively a zero-cost option for something that might help. Same. I thermal epoxied a copper ramsink to my 960 Evo, and I can move bigass archives around at full speed. Cost £0 and dropped it below the throttle temp. GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Dec 10, 2018 |
# ? Dec 10, 2018 22:39 |
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Adata SU800 1 TB SATA 2.5" for <$100 with code AD21.
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# ? Dec 13, 2018 07:50 |
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I hear Ratuken sucks. What precautions should be taken?
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 00:39 |
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Sucks how? I got a micron 1100 2tb over Black Friday from them without issues.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 01:59 |
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Rakuten's US launch was marred by credit exposure issues. But you can pay through PayPal so it's really a non-issue.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 02:12 |
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redeyes posted:I hear Ratuken sucks. What precautions should be taken? Rakuten was formerly buy.com, and nowadays it seems like they're a marketplace for other sellers (or at least for the tech products I usually shop for,) rather than selling much stuff directly (it used to be more Amazon-like.) In this case you're buying directly from Adata, and the only nuisance is that "delivery signature required" which they warn you about in the listing, which you may or may not care about. Use a CC through Paypal and you're fine, I've made many [SSD, Adata specifically] purchases through Rakuten recently and they've all went fine. Oh I guess shipping can be a little slow, but again that's all on Adata. I've purchased both SU650 (DRAMless) and SU800s over the past year, and they're both fine 2nd- or 3rd-tier SATA SSDs; I put a 512 GB m.2 SU800 in each of my NUCs like a week ago, no regerts.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 02:42 |
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Also, if you shop on Rakuten you should be able to get some extra cash back from Ebates. I believe senates was acquired by Rakuten a while ago. I dunno, all I know is that I got some extra money from Ebates and I’d use them even though they’re both customers of the company I work for.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 04:15 |
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Atomizer posted:Rakuten was formerly buy.com, and nowadays it seems like they're a marketplace for other sellers (or at least for the tech products I usually shop for,) rather than selling much stuff directly (it used to be more Amazon-like.) In this case you're buying directly from Adata, and the only nuisance is that "delivery signature required" which they warn you about in the listing, which you may or may not care about. Use a CC through Paypal and you're fine, I've made many [SSD, Adata specifically] purchases through Rakuten recently and they've all went fine. Oh I guess shipping can be a little slow, but again that's all on Adata. Cool thanks for that information. I shall order a SSD from them.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 06:26 |
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Imagine going from Buy.com and Play.com to using Rakuten.com instead. There is probably a good reason behind it but I don't know.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 16:33 |
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I just got a Samsung 860 EVO; is there any reason to use something like Macrium Reflect over their own Magician software to clone my current HDD? And what's the preferred setup for doing the actual cloning? Should I connect both drives to the motherboard via SATA, or should I connect the SSD via a USB 3 adapter? I'd like to keep the old HDD in the system as a secondary storage drive if that makes any difference.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 16:34 |
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Either connection should work just fine. Magician/migration is fool proof. Just make sure you download it on the first go otherwise you have to go hunting, for some reason Samsung has a download limit.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 16:54 |
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Dont clone your current setup, thats for fools. Backup and install fresh, squeaky clean.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 16:58 |
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codo27 posted:Dont clone your current setup, thats for fools. Backup and install fresh, squeaky clean. It generally works fine.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 17:24 |
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oohhboy posted:Either connection should work just fine. Magician/migration is fool proof. Just make sure you download it on the first go otherwise you have to go hunting, for some reason Samsung has a download limit. They tend to instate a daily download limit for a while after a new version has been released. The previous version is always available unlimited on the overview page.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 17:39 |
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redeyes posted:It generally works fine. This is true but it's also true that backing up your important poo poo to the cloud and reimaging your OS every now and again is just good practice. May as well take the opportunity.
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# ? Dec 14, 2018 18:01 |
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franchise1 posted:Imagine going from Buy.com and Play.com to using Rakuten.com instead. There is probably a good reason behind it but I don't know. They changed the name because the Japanese company Rakuten bought them.
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# ? Dec 15, 2018 05:00 |
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franchise1 posted:Imagine going from Buy.com and Play.com to using Rakuten.com instead. There is probably a good reason behind it but I don't know. Generic domain names like "Buy" and "Play" make people suspicious of the service being a scam. And the very 90s idea of "people will simply enter buy.com if they want to buy something!" never worked out. Also: Probably impossible to trademark.
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# ? Dec 15, 2018 13:22 |
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So, getting an NVMe drive to work in Windows 7 so you can update its firmware *before* installing it in a new system is fun. First, MS has gotten rid of the hotfix that enables NVMe support in Windows 7 (KB2990941-v3-x64) and the hotfix they put out just in case that one generates BSODs (KB3087873-v2-x64). Then, I found out that MyDigitalSSD included the cutest, smallest, most useless loving M.2 screw known to mankind, which didn't work with my a long-time-ago impulse-bought Addonics ADM2PX4 PCIe NVMe riser. Not being deterred, I went down and opened up my Aorus Xtreme box, thinking that an M.2 screw is an M.2 screw and *has* to be an M.2 screw. Nope. They use some proprietary standoff screw to work with their M.2 shield. Finally I settled on finding some electrical tape and wrapped a length of it around the front and back of the riser card after ensuring it was nicely secured in the slot. Fired up the F/W update .exe from MyDSSD, and it doesn't detect anything (and yes, I ran as an administrator). So now I'm formatting it in NTFS (50% done at the time of this post) and crossing my fingers it'll detect once it's done. In other news, this is a pretty neat site: http://thehotfixshare.net You'd better loving believe I ran those .msi files through a virus scanner first, though. >.> EDIT: Annnnnd of course, after an NTFS format (Windows can open and read/write to it just fine), and a reboot just for shits and giggles, the F/W update software can't detect the drive. And just for fun, I ran a benchmark on it - mind, this is four lanes of PCIe 2.0 (2500K on a Z68 board), since it was most expedient to install it to the CPU-bound x16-length slot: I guess I'm hitting Micro Center later today for a USB 3.1 NVMe enclosure, then hope it's 'compatible' with the drive like their native M2X. EDIT2: And after un-allocating the disk (for easier use when *actually* using it), removing the adapter, and uninstalling that now-unnecessary hotfix, when putting away said adapter, I notice, sitting neatly atop the instruction pamphlet for said adapter...a perfectly-sized M.2 screw for the adapter's mount hole. Life lesson: don't gently caress around inside your computers at 3am ~just because you've gotta do it sometime~. Who knows, maybe it's because I put it on the CPU PCIe lanes instead of the PCH's, but it took an hour of my life to do something that should've been simple and painless, so USB enclosure it is. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Dec 16, 2018 |
# ? Dec 16, 2018 08:28 |
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Using Windows 7 in the year 2019 sounds kind of painful
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 12:13 |
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:Using Windows 7 in the year 2019 sounds kind of painful Well, in another few weeks I'll leave it in the rear-view forever. For now it does everything I need it to...except update my loving NVMe drive via PCIe.
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 12:20 |
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BIG HEADLINE posted:So, getting an NVMe drive to work in Windows 7 so you can update its firmware *before* installing it in a new system is fun. First, MS has gotten rid of the hotfix that enables NVMe support in Windows 7 (KB2990941-v3-x64) and the hotfix they put out just in case that one generates BSODs (KB3087873-v2-x64). Then, I found out that MyDigitalSSD included the cutest, smallest, most useless loving M.2 screw known to mankind, which didn't work with my a long-time-ago impulse-bought Addonics ADM2PX4 PCIe NVMe riser. Why not just load Windows 10 and get on with life?! You can control Pro pretty well.
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 16:50 |
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I want every thread title on this site to be renamed to STOP USING WINDOWS 7 YOU COUNTRY FRIED RUBE
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 18:26 |
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I didn't read that whole post, dude. No one needs a how to for running NVME on an obsolete OS. You could have done an in place upgrade in 20 minutes, come on.
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 19:21 |
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Or if you are not ready to upgrade yet, then install Win 10 on the NVMe, upgrade the firmware and wipe the NVMe.
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 19:26 |
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Are there any 2TB performance NVMe drives on the horizon or is the EVO 970 the only game in town?
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 21:29 |
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Is this like when people had issues getting AHCI to work on Windows XP
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 21:45 |
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Phone posted:Are there any 2TB performance NVMe drives on the horizon or is the EVO 970 the only game in town? Consumer grade? I am sure WD/Sandisk will have something out soon. Enterprise there is stuff from HGST and Seagate but it’s $$$.
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# ? Dec 16, 2018 21:45 |
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@Big Headline I went through a similar amount of bullshit recently. I bought an MSI B450-A PRO motherboard and for some loving reason, their M.2 standoff was missing. Their standoff used a M3 male connector with a slot for a standard M.2 screw. Because that makes sense. I just got a M3x.5 screw at Lowes and said gently caress it.
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# ? Dec 17, 2018 06:18 |
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Windows 7 till i die
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# ? Dec 17, 2018 06:41 |
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M.2 standoff screws are the most easily loseable screws and I hate them so much. Motherboards that have those nylon standoffs that keeps the plug attached with a little rope are the best.
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# ? Dec 17, 2018 07:02 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:45 |
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Saukkis posted:Or if you are not ready to upgrade yet, then install Win 10 on the NVMe, upgrade the firmware and wipe the NVMe. Would this actually work? I didn't think Sandy Bridge era motherboards had UEFI drivers capable of booting from NVMe drives.
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# ? Dec 17, 2018 11:59 |