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DaveSauce posted:That was my thought as well, but I didn't know if there was some sort of legal background or definition of any of those terms that might include a stream buffer zone. If you're selling I would disclose it. Just say "yeah I mean the neighboring property has an easement on it that helps prevent flooding in the whole neighborhood." Every loving property in the world has a utility easement on it and you're not making yourself look worse telling people about it. It's going to come up when they get title insurance anyways. I would ask that city inspector how to help something cross his desk. Perhaps when you apply for the permit you schedule a meeting with him to discuss questions about the form and process, then happen to leave it on his desk? As long as your deck is raised and not a concrete slab it should be fine enough. Lots of places will let you replace like-for-like. Adding a screen structure to an existing deck shouldn't trigger too much in the way of review. Remember, it's "replace deteriorating deck. Install screen enclosure."
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Dec 17, 2018 23:17
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Jealous Cow posted:Why did you repost this from reddit? fuuuck that was meant for a GBS thread, sorry all
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Dec 20, 2018 20:29
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Spot the problem
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Dec 20, 2018 23:20
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No room for a mossy rock bath mat.
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Dec 20, 2018 23:57
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bird with big dick posted:Spot the problem 
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Dec 21, 2018 01:08
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If so that's a bonus problem and not the one I was referring to.
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Dec 21, 2018 01:52
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One's upside down.
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Dec 21, 2018 01:59
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bird with big dick posted:If so that's a bonus problem and not the one I was referring to. Oh wait....is there a missing upright 3 rows back? It's so hard to tell from a pic. I NEED TO KNOW. e: BRED: Yep, that's what I was seeing but didn't recognize it was actually upside down.
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Dec 21, 2018 02:00
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bred posted:One's upside down. Bingo. Motronic posted:Oh wait....is there a missing upright 3 rows back? It's easier to see with a higher res pic, I didn't realize I posted the lower res one. I'll probably write up what's going on after I get another rum and coke.
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Dec 21, 2018 02:31
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So I tried to figure out how to approach this, typing up absolutely everything would take a long time and the situation is ongoing so it's not like there'd be an immediate happy (or sad) ending, so I'm not gonna. What I am gonna do is type up the stuff that could potentially (but not likely) be useful to other people and everyones general knowledge, and then ask a couple questions based off that stuff. And I'm gonna explain this like I'm explaining it to myself 3 months ago, so if it seems like I'm being condescending, I'm not, I'm just trying to explain all this to a moron (me). This is a truss. Some houses have trusses for floors:  Some houses have I-beam thingies and some houses have just solid wood board thingies. The I beams look like this:  The solid wood thingies can be anywhere from 2x6(?) to like 2x14 or maybe even more or even less but I'm not gonna post a picture because they just look like a big board. Back to the truss. Some are just a zig zag back and forth (top to bottom) so those wouldn't necessarily even have a top and a bottom, it wouldn't matter which way you put them in because they can be functionally symmetrical. That's called a Warren truss. There are other reasons they could still be upside down, but not for the same reasons as the "Fan style." Here's the Warren, for reference:  Compared to the more common (what I got) "Fan" style:  The fan style has a top and a bottom. It's pretty easy to figure out, because one side is supported at a lot more points than the other side, and being supported more frequently is good because no one wants the floor in their house to feel like a trampoline. Where I live, according to code, you have to have a support point at least every 26 inches to meet code. They call those support points "panel points." This means that you can't space these joists more than ~24" apart or they'll be out of code. But you probably don't want ones that are 24" apart because it probably means your builder is a giant cheapshit. You'd be better off with 16" or 19.2" (what mine are) which are common spacings. The tighter you space them, the longer you can go on an unsupported run, but it also depends on the depth (top to bottom dimension on the truss) and for the common residential depths (12" to 16") there really isn't much difference between 12 and 19.2" so you're probably not gonna find a lot of builders shelling out the dough for 12" OC spacing for a 14" deep truss just to get the extra 22" unsupported span ability. Like, they'll just make the house 22" smaller.  Trusses generally deflect more than an I beam. Even if they're perfectly in spec, you might notice that they're a little bouncier than the other floor joist types. That's the main negative, the main positive is that they're stronger than other floor joists so you can have longer unsupported spans underneath them. They're also awesome for routing HVAC because of all those huge openings, you don't have to cut a giant hole in them to run a heating duct through them like you do with an I-beam. That means if you've got three toilets, a urinal, a bidet, your water heater, and your furnace all right next to each other, you're not gonna lose floor strength just to run all those pipes through the giant holes you gotta cut in your I-beam plywood. Trusses also have a lot of different "end conditions." With I-beam joists they're the same their entire length so you can just hack them off wherever you want and it makes no difference. That's obviously not the case with trusses. They're engineered and constructed off site and trucked in and installed. But they do make them where the end is trimmable in case you really suck at making things the right length, by making the end an I beam rather than a truss, as seen here:  So this truss above is trimmable for length but not height. If you want to adjust the height, you have to gently caress with those two 2x4s that are below it (with the Xs). But you will note, the end of the joist is sitting directly on the top of the wall. The truss below is basically the opposite. It's not trimmable for length but is trimmable for height:  But probably the most relevant to my situation is this pic, which shows you can either have the bottom cord sitting on the supporting wall or you can have the top chord (which has to be extended by that little lip by ~4") sitting on the supporting wall.  Here's a chili mac recipe from J Loper Kenji Alt that I think you should consider adding to your reportoir:  SO, now that we're all experts on trusses, this is where it all comes together. Let's look at the picture from the previous post. As has been pointed out, one of them is upside down. This means that instead of the panel points being 19 or 20" apart, they've gone up to about 40" for that entire span. That is bad, and out of code. My understanding from talking to a guy that works at a (different) truss company is that the ultimate load holding MAY not be changed by that much. Maybe only 5%. It depends on other stuff that I don't know. But what definitely changes a lot is the flex of the top chord, because you just halved your support points. It doesn't take a brain genious to see that if you step in the middle of the 40" support its gonna flex a LOT more than the 20" support. And im gonna guess it isn't linear and instead of being 2x as much is more like 4x as much, but even though I took a structural engineering class I drank a lot so am an unreliable witness. But the REAL question comes here. The builder said that they used that "top chord bearing on stud wall" system which if you flipped it 180, wouldn't work. What woulda been level would be off by 4" or so if you flipped it 180. The interior where it attached to the wall would be in the right spot but the exterior (since it didn't have that notch out of it) would be many inches too high and noticeable to anyone. If they're telling the truth that would be true and any truss the ends on an exterior wall can't be upside down. Which means any of the trusses at my house that are hidden by drywall cannot be upside down. And now we come back to the original picture:  This isn't my house, it's my neighbors house. My house was built before this one. The green is the edge of the foundation. All the trusses are tied into this via a 2x14 that (maybe, I think?) is lag bolted to the concrete foundation and then the trusses are U-thingied into the 2x14. The red is a legit beam that spans between load bearing walls. It has those U-hanger things in it so you know those trusses start/stop there. The trusses to the left and right of it you're not sure about, because they could start/stop on that load bearing wall or they could cross it while being continuous. So the question is, does the red line meant that the yellow line isnt' a problem as long as the green line means that the frog was not part of the truss calcs and the thing is I'm gonna go to bed now.
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Dec 21, 2018 07:00
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Alright i just reread that and it seems like the last 7 or so paragraphs might be gibberish but I think if you reread them 4 or 5 times all will become clear.
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Dec 21, 2018 07:05
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I need to quit drinkin
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Dec 21, 2018 21:03
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You just posted a lot of word vomit who's only response can be "what did your lawyer say about this?"
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Dec 21, 2018 23:56
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I had an HVAC guy come out as my 24v transformer fried in my gas boiler. He noted that my emergency shutoff is not up to code (only shuts off the low voltage side) and I had a dry burn at one point that was patched up with a piece of sheet metal. Neither thing was found by my home inspector. Any recourse? He says I'm ok for this winter but I should replace my 45 hear old boiler for next winter.
Sepist fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Dec 23, 2018 |
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Dec 23, 2018 03:00
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Sepist posted:Neither thing was found by my home inspector.............45 hear old boiler Did they note it was 45 loving years old? If so, I think that covers everything. And even then......no, you don't have any reasonable recourse.
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Dec 23, 2018 03:21
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They noted it and I did the walk thru with them. Just didnt mention that giant piece of metal on the front with a fire burning through it was an issue. He also missed a number of plumbing issues so I guess he just sucked
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Dec 23, 2018 04:12
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If home inspectors could be easily sued then no one would do the job.
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Dec 23, 2018 04:19
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Sepist posted:They noted it and I did the walk thru with them. Just didnt mention that giant piece of metal on the front with a fire burning through it was an issue. That entirely depends on the plumbing issues that were missed an what type/level of inspection you paid for. I'm not trying to stick up for home inspectors here, because a lot of them suck. But the whole "45 year old furnace a problem?" thing leads me to believe you might just have unrealistic expectations. poo poo POST MALONE posted:If home inspectors could be easily sued then no one would do the job. Also this.
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Dec 23, 2018 04:19
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Nothing major. Two of the bathrooms had flex piping that leaked from day one that I replaced. I had to redo the master shower because the curb was pitched incorrectly and it leaked into the basement. There were water stains already down there but I guess we didnt stick around long enough during inspection to see them pool. And yes, it's old. I guess I just have to deal with it. I had a sewer scope done in addition to the general inspection, I guess next time I'll have a licensed hvac person involved as well
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Dec 23, 2018 04:49
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It is a safe assumption that anything in your house that was around during the Nixon administration is way past due for replacement
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Dec 23, 2018 16:24
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Jose Valasquez posted:It is a safe assumption that anything in your house that was around during the Nixon administration is way past due for replacement What about the Taft administration? 
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Dec 23, 2018 16:56
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I have it on good authority that anything from the Harrison administration is definitely top shape and doesn't need to be looked at too closely, promise.
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Dec 23, 2018 17:26
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I don't see inspectors so much as there to figure out every little thing that's wrong with your house, but really the big huge red sirens. Anything more than that is just gravy.
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Dec 23, 2018 17:55
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The really good ones can help you identify maintenance issues and may even show you how to fix the small stuff
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Dec 23, 2018 20:46
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QuarkJets posted:The really good ones can help you identify maintenance issues and may even show you how to fix the small stuff A house-clusless friend used the same inspector I did and was given a list of periodic maintenance items specifically for the house they bought that was just perfect for a new homeowner.
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Dec 24, 2018 16:57
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I spent most of the last 3 days (re)building a loft in my garage. There was kinda of a loft there before but it was not level, not sturdy, and filthy as gently caress. The dryer is in there and I guess at some point it wasn't vented because there was lint all over everything. The studs, the vapor barrier, and mostly on the top of the loft. Also there were rodents at once point so lots of dried piss and poo poo everywhere. I tore it all down except for a single 2x4 on the left wall, and built everything more-or-less right. Sadly I don't have any pictures of a before. My new loft is crazy overbuilt, and should be able to support a fuckton of weight. This first picture is before I screwed down the plywood floor, so there's a bit of a gap on the left piece where it's warped.  Also put in a pegboard for some tool storage. This whole area is behind a big set of doors that can be locked, so it's going to be nice a secure, even if someone breaks into my garage for a quick grab-and-dash.  Next on the list is to sort through the 30 cans of paint from 1950 to present, document what each can has/had, and throw most of it away. Then rebuild the shelving on that side, as it also suffers from the lint/piss/poop trifecta.
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Dec 25, 2018 01:23
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That single 2x4 in the front is going to carry a lot of load. Don't put too many engine blocks up there.
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Dec 25, 2018 02:53
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That is unfortunately the weak spot. I'm debating on how to reinforce it still, or if I should even bother. It probably won't see more than 100 pounds of weight, if that. I have clearance to sister another beam on the front of it and was thinking of running another set of 2x4s down to the ground so that both of the horizontal ones are resting on them.
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Dec 25, 2018 03:33
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Add triangles.
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Dec 25, 2018 06:59
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If you can sister a 2x6 or 2x8 you can quadruple or more the load but it is probably fine unless you get a goon on top jumping up and down.
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Dec 25, 2018 15:39
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totalnewbie posted:Add triangles. I put some rotary engines up there, now what?
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Dec 25, 2018 20:32
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Motronic posted:You just posted a lot of word vomit who's only response can be "what did your lawyer say about this?" My lawyer looked at it but he doesn’t know poo poo about floor joists I think I’m gonna have an engineer come look at it
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Dec 26, 2018 06:37
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Apparently I should read the mail from the bank (I just put it off by a couple weeks, it's fine!) My escrow is short not unsubstantially. I got the option to either pay off the shortage as a lump sum by sending them a check or they'll increase my escrow over 12 months. On paper, it looks like there's no difference. (Higher escrow - lower escrow) * 12 = lump sum payment. I figure I might as well keep that money in the bank to earn some interest and just pay it off over 12 months instead of sending them a check. Did I miss anything? TIA
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Dec 26, 2018 18:30
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totalnewbie posted:Apparently I should read the mail from the bank (I just put it off by a couple weeks, it's fine!) I had the same thing happen early this year and called Wells Fargo to ask that exact question. They told me there was indeed no benefit to paying it off as a lump sum vs. spreading it out over the year. Escrow stuff doesn't accrue interest. I missed it too because the escrow shortage/overage bills look identical to the standard mortgage statements that I file away.
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Dec 26, 2018 18:32
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Painting question - I want to paint my baseboard heater covers but there's currently a ton of old paint globbed on to them. Would I have any success trying to sand them down or should I just bite the bullet and get to strippin'?
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Dec 26, 2018 18:35
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bird with big dick posted:My lawyer looked at it but he doesn’t know poo poo about floor joists I think I’m gonna have an engineer come look at it Your lawyer doesn't need to know anything about floor joists. Their job it to assemble the correct people to correct evidence and opinions so you can be made whole through civil proceedings or the threats thereof. Seriously, if that was a real response you need to fire your attorney and find someone competent. This isn't going away any other way unless it involves you spending your own money to get it fixed.
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Dec 26, 2018 18:41
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totalnewbie posted:I figure I might as well keep that money in the bank to earn some interest and just pay it off over 12 months instead of sending them a check. Did I miss anything? TIA Fallom posted:I had the same thing happen early this year and called Wells Fargo to ask that exact question. They told me there was indeed no benefit to paying it off as a lump sum vs. spreading it out over the year. Escrow stuff doesn't accrue interest. This is state-by-state. Though now that Ally and their ilk are up to 2% it's a wash. California escrow accounts pay 2% interest so it was marginally beneficial to true up via a lump sum. Now it's a wash or negative as I forget and don't care if it's 2% APR or APY.
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Dec 26, 2018 18:43
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H110Hawk posted:This is state-by-state. Though now that Ally and their ilk are up to 2% it's a wash. California escrow accounts pay 2% interest so it was marginally beneficial to true up via a lump sum. Now it's a wash or negative as I forget and don't care if it's 2% APR or APY. Huh, good to know. I’m in CO
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Dec 26, 2018 22:48
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Someone in this thread had a recommended toilet (Motronic?) but I can't find the post. Mind reposting it please?
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Dec 27, 2018 05:46
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Grumpwagon posted:Someone in this thread had a recommended toilet (Motronic?) I don’t always agree with him, but that seems a little harsh.
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Dec 27, 2018 06:43
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