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Captain Hair posted:I emailed them (no reply yet but it's Christmas time so expect it to take a while) but yeah, looks like I've been using a base coat of white paint as a primer on everything I've ever painted... Try Facebook messengering on their page - I got a really quick reply about colour matching their texture paints in the main line.
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Dec 20, 2018 10:55
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Alokgen posted:I'm fitting to paint some warmachine minis with a digital camo scheme. Do people usually shade/highlight each color? All the tutorials I've seen online have you use Color A, Color B, Color C then they move on. The camo looks good, but they look kind of flat because they're just flat base coats. I would just make sure all three or four colors used for the digital camo are complementary a different shades of blue different shades of yellowy-green different shades of browny-green Etc. I would then just shade and highlight for most middle tone of all of that, IE with the blue cameras can you just use drukhari wash and Space Wolves grey for highlight. Afterwards I probably just clean up the highlights in areas where it's obviously too bright for the base color or it's blending together but I'd just leave the wash the same. Try something like that on the test model and see if you like it.
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Dec 20, 2018 15:01
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Alokgen posted:I'm fitting to paint some warmachine minis with a digital camo scheme. Do people usually shade/highlight each color? All the tutorials I've seen online have you use Color A, Color B, Color C then they move on. The camo looks good, but they look kind of flat because they're just flat base coats. To pull it off, I would follow this approach: 1. Pick 3 complemtary colors that can all be washed with the same color. I.e. 2 browns and a green that can all be washed with brown or 2 grays and a blue that can be washed with either blue or grey 2. Make sure your darkest color can still be successfully darkened with the wash. If you start with black, the black portions will have no texture after the wash 3. Paint and wash. Edge highlights are going to be very hard so I would try to only do digital camo on pants, backpacks, and such. If you put it on the key detail areas of the model, it will end up looking very flat.
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Dec 20, 2018 15:17
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Pyrolocutus posted:Is MDF scrap recyclable or does it have to go into the trash? I just got a load of MDF stuff from TTCombat but I'm wondering about all the scrap left over from punching the pieces out of their frames. We use a lot of MDF at work doing architectural models. We recycle a lot of our scrap into smaller pieces, jigs, sanding sticks and so on but small stuff just gets thrown out. Mind the dust coming off of that when you sand it. That poo poo is nobody's friend.
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Dec 20, 2018 16:04
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I got a new thing of plastic cemet and unfortunately I wasn't able to figure out how control how much comes out so I hosed up and added too much glue and there is scarring. So my question is: Is there a quick gently caress I added to much glue technique I can use to prevent scarring when I inevitably gently caress up again?
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Dec 21, 2018 05:50
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T___A posted:I got a new thing of plastic cemet and unfortunately I wasn't able to figure out how control how much comes out so I hosed up and added too much glue and there is scarring. So my question is: Is there a quick gently caress I added to much glue technique I can use to prevent scarring when I inevitably gently caress up again? Not really. You should use a brush applicator, like the one in the Tamiya bottles, or a needle nose applicator like the one in Testors Model Master bottle so you have exact control.
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Dec 21, 2018 07:31
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Bucnasti posted:Not really. 
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Dec 21, 2018 08:27
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What is worth more? The $2 glue that ruins your models or the $7 that doesnt?
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Dec 21, 2018 13:19
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T___A posted:Unfortunately my new bottle is the Model Master. I dunno why findy bottle so hard to controlm I always test my model master needle on paper towel a few times before going at the model. Also you can start a bead and then just drag the seam and surface tension will usually do the work of distributing enough for you.
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Dec 21, 2018 14:10
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I finally repaired a miniature that I dropped and broke in April, I like how it turned out.
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Dec 21, 2018 18:29
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Aniodia posted:First, white is straight dildos to paint, don't let anyone ever tell you otherwise. However, what you've got now isn't terrible, but as you probably thought, it is a little thicker than it should be. Honestly, I've used both Ceramite White and White Scar, and I'd recommend Ceramite White when doing any sort of white anything (armor, robes, whatever). Yes, it's technically a "base" paint, but that just means you can thin it way more than "layer" paints and still have a decent amount of pigment, and white is definitely a color you want to have as thin and smooth as possible. You'd actually be surprised how thin you can go with the Ceramite and still have it be usable. I'll also recommend starting with an off-white (Celestra Grey, Rakarth Flesh, maybe Ionrach Skin?), depending upon the rest of your color scheme, and go up to white, rather than try and start right from white and shade down. Are you using a camera from 1998? If not you might want to consider more light.
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Dec 21, 2018 19:01
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Or cut down on the smokes.
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Dec 21, 2018 19:19
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Or wipe the grease off the lens. Looks like a flashback sequence.
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Dec 21, 2018 22:56
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Crosspostin'Cthulu Carl posted:Finally got around to finishing my first Plague Marine for my kill team, and... This feels like this first time I've finished a mini that made me go "Holy poo poo, that looks GOOD!"
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Dec 22, 2018 01:06
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 Yellow-black / red-white chevrons on a knight's hood - good idea or not?
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Dec 22, 2018 13:48
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inscrutable horse posted:
I think that would look cool if it had some similar chevrons elsewhere to establish some continuity, otherwise might stand out a bit much? Cross posting because i'm proud father of an ugly frog. There's gross lines where the model was assembled lovely with plastic glue (hence me buying him cheap) Harvey Mantaco posted:Started painting in June I think and this is definitely the biggest project I've done. Really fun and messy to paint. Not sure i'm happy with the skin on bad shrek here but I learned a lot. Lol my kid literally won't touch it. "Dad that's gross. No."
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Dec 22, 2018 23:04
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I think that would look cool if it had some similar chevrons elsewhere to establish some continuity, otherwise might stand out a bit much? Good idea. I was originally going to paint according to the "standard" House Raven scheme on the box, but now I might stick those chevrons onto the smaller armour plates on the legs and arms.
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Dec 22, 2018 23:49
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Me: Man, I have a bunch of miniatures I still have to work on. I haven't finished my Chaos Warriors, my Blood Angels haven't even been opened yet, and I got a Primaris Dreadnought as a gift last month. I probably shouldn't buy anymore miniatures. Games Workshop:  Me:  I haven't actually ordered this, but I'm thinking I should do so ASAP, since I'm worried it's only available for a limited time. I am curious as to how you paint that hair or the leopard print on the legs. That looks really difficult.
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Dec 23, 2018 00:38
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Max Wilco posted:Me: Man, I have a bunch of miniatures I still have to work on. I haven't finished my Chaos Warriors, my Blood Angels haven't even been opened yet, and I got a Primaris Dreadnought as a gift last month. I probably shouldn't buy anymore miniatures. Wet blending is a lot easier than you imagine and doing a rainbow like that shouldn't be that bad. Leopard spots are just black blotches with a small accent color inside and you don't have to have exact shapes so it's pretty forgiving. The hard part for those is there's just so many.
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Dec 23, 2018 00:41
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I finished some more shoota boyz, and I regret painting 20 so far this month. While fun and the results are nice, it is so freaking slow doing them all.
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Dec 23, 2018 00:49
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mango sentinel posted:Wet blending is a lot easier than you imagine and doing a rainbow like that shouldn't be that bad. Leopard spots are just black blotches with a small accent color inside and you don't have to have exact shapes so it's pretty forgiving. The hard part for those is there's just so many. It looks  , and I had the notion to just up and buy it, but trying to do all those details intimidates me (especially since I still don't feel like I've got a great handle on doing small detail yet as it is), and I'm sure I don't have anywhere near enough colors to replicate that hair. On top of that, it's $35 for just the single figure. I know elite units like that are priced higher, but for that same price or a little more, you can get sets that have a lot more minis in a box.I'm just hoping it's not going to be a limited time thing and it'll be gone in a few months. 
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Dec 23, 2018 02:46
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I was hoping for a complete new Noise Marine army.
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Dec 23, 2018 03:14
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dexefiend posted:I was hoping for a complete new Noise Marine army. God, I wish. They're still selling the Noise Marine weapon packs apparently, and they're what, 15-17 years old at this point?
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Dec 23, 2018 04:36
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https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Emperor-s-Children-Legion-Kakophoni
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Dec 23, 2018 08:59
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Slimnoid posted:God, I wish. They're still selling the Noise Marine weapon packs apparently, and they're what, 15-17 years old at this point? They were selling the old resin Plague Marines up until the day the new plastic Plague Marine range went up for preorder. They were selling the old resin Marneus Calgar up until the day Primarneus Calgar went up. So, the dream is at some point they'll launch new plastic Noise Marines, possibly as part of some larger Chaos refresh that would also include, uh... maybe new plastic Slaanesh demons? Which would probably go up in a boxed set first before being sold singly. And maybe new plastic Noise Marines would have a sense of fun and include a couple of suspiciously guitar-like noise weapons alongside the Kakophoni noise-blaster guns the resin 40k Noise Marine upgrade kit has right now. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Dec 23, 2018 |
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Dec 23, 2018 09:04
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aw yus
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Dec 23, 2018 12:25
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It sold out in a couple of hours here apparently  I'm annoyed with myself, I had a few things to do yesterday and left going to the GW for later. That'll teach me to put anything before my plastic doll fixation in future.Though I'm still stop-starting my way through 2 kill teams and a literal pile of unpainted Tyranids so... maybe there's another lesson there too.
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Dec 23, 2018 13:19
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 GF surprised me with a light box for Xmas. I'm gonna be playing with this thing all week.
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Dec 24, 2018 22:52
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I want a Noise Marine so badly. I don't play Chaos. I don't want to play Chaos. And I would feel guilty dropping that much money on a single model that I have no plans on ever playing. But that model is so
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Dec 25, 2018 00:07
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Duct Tape posted:I want a Noise Marine so badly. 
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Dec 25, 2018 00:12
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Just finished wrapping my Noise Marine fire a friend's Christmas gift  None for me though
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Dec 25, 2018 00:23
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Deified Data posted:
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Dec 25, 2018 00:53
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Any recommendations on airbrushes? After like a decade of brush painting, I am considering getting an airbrush. I know badger is mentioned often, but any suggestions are appreciated.
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Dec 25, 2018 17:11
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Slandible posted:Any recommendations on airbrushes? After like a decade of brush painting, I am considering getting an airbrush. I know badger is mentioned often, but any suggestions are appreciated. I bought a 105 patriot as a pretty new beginner painter recently and its been perfect. Thus far I've only primed and basecoated with it but that alone has been worth the price. Just started a unit of imperial fists that im planning on doing mostly with the airbrush so that will be my first big project with the thing. Will post terrible results as they occur. If you are in the uk https://barwellbodyworks-shop.com/gb/ seems to be the best place to get airbrush stuff that I've found.
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Dec 25, 2018 18:00
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Slandible posted:Any recommendations on airbrushes? After like a decade of brush painting, I am considering getting an airbrush. I know badger is mentioned often, but any suggestions are appreciated. seconding Badger patriot, with the addition of a compressor that has a tank.
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Dec 25, 2018 18:36
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Badger 105s do seem very popular. Are there compressor incompatibilities, or is that just for pressure control options?
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Dec 25, 2018 19:02
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Slandible posted:Any recommendations on airbrushes? After like a decade of brush painting, I am considering getting an airbrush. I know badger is mentioned often, but any suggestions are appreciated. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-WxKl_AVTE
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Dec 25, 2018 19:17
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 I'm not sure I'm liking how this is going. It's my first Slaanesh model.
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Dec 25, 2018 19:43
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Slandible posted:Badger 105s do seem very popular. Are there compressor incompatibilities, or is that just for pressure control options? Every time compressors are mentioned someone will say "get one with a tank" regardless of what brush you're using or your situation. The truth is that advice is way outdated. In the past cheap compressors tended to have inconsistent output (pulsing) and would wear out quickly, so having a tank meant they were more consistent and ran less so they lasted longer. Even the cheapest modern compressor is of a high enough quality that pulsing is no longer an issue and unless you're using one daily it will probably outlive you. There are two key advantages of a tanked compressor over non-tanked:
That said, badger airbrush hoses use a different size connector than most compressor outputs, you'll need an adapter, you can get them on Amazon for like $8 or hunt one down at the hardware store for like $2.
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Dec 25, 2018 20:05
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Right now is a pretty good time to grab a Badger 105 because at present on Amazon they're marked down to $58 down from their usual $75.
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Dec 25, 2018 20:07
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