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tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
Arrow Canyon is good. The Grail/Utah Hills are an easy drive too.

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Hauki
May 11, 2010


spwrozek posted:

I am usually a Monday/Wednesday guy.

Ah, too bad. I didn’t think the parking lot could be worse than Englewood, but I got there at like, 5:02 and the nearest open spot I saw was on the street at least a half mile up so I bailed and bouldered at the gym by my house instead. Is it normally that bad? I don’t exactly have a set gym schedule, but I try to go twice during the week and once on the weekend if I can.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Hauki posted:

Ah, too bad. I didn’t think the parking lot could be worse than Englewood, but I got there at like, 5:02 and the nearest open spot I saw was on the street at least a half mile up so I bailed and bouldered at the gym by my house instead. Is it normally that bad? I don’t exactly have a set gym schedule, but I try to go twice during the week and once on the weekend if I can.

It was probably pretty much 'empty' inside. I usually park behind the gym at the medical facility. You can always get in ropes there.

Boulder at DBC? If so good choice!

Tactical Lesbian
Mar 31, 2012

gonna be in bishop the week of the 16th

pls no precipitation

Hauki
May 11, 2010


spwrozek posted:

It was probably pretty much 'empty' inside. I usually park behind the gym at the medical facility. You can always get in ropes there.

Boulder at DBC? If so good choice!

gotcha, maybe I'll check it out for a bit tomorrow on my way home, partner's out, so just bouldering though

and no, just the other earthtreks, I want to check out DBC at some point, but... gotta get my money's worth out of my membership at ET, hah.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
DBC is pretty great. There are dogs.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
I'd like a recommendation for new shoes, please. I currently have a pair of La Sportiva Katanas, with laces, and I like everything about them except that the toe box is a little too aggressive. They're not a super aggressive shoe anyway but I want something I can wear for extended periods at the gym because I don't like taking my shoes off. I don't want to just get a larger size because the fit of the heel and midfoot is perfect.

BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010
I have a pair of La Sportiva Finales that are great for when I don't want to cram my feet into Miuras. The toe box is nice for slightly wider feet and you can always crank on the laces if you feel like you are sliding around. I got them in my street size and have felt comfortable, but not so loosey goosey that I wasn't sure of my footing.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!

Kylaer posted:

I'd like a recommendation for new shoes, please. I currently have a pair of La Sportiva Katanas, with laces, and I like everything about them except that the toe box is a little too aggressive. They're not a super aggressive shoe anyway but I want something I can wear for extended periods at the gym because I don't like taking my shoes off. I don't want to just get a larger size because the fit of the heel and midfoot is perfect.

Amusingly I have some Katanas I'm looking to replace with a more aggressively shaped pair (they have also started to disintegrate, this is my 2nd pair of La Sportiva shoes that lasted less than a year and I'm not giving them a third try even if the fit is pretty good)

If it wasn't for the "literally falling apart in several different ways" factor I'd probably try another pair of them but down another half size. Which would be 5 1/2s on my ~7.5-8 regular shoe size.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Kylaer posted:

I'd like a recommendation for new shoes, please. I currently have a pair of La Sportiva Katanas, with laces, and I like everything about them except that the toe box is a little too aggressive. They're not a super aggressive shoe anyway but I want something I can wear for extended periods at the gym because I don't like taking my shoes off. I don't want to just get a larger size because the fit of the heel and midfoot is perfect.

What do you mean by 'too agressive'? Is the toebox uncomfortably narrow? Is the shoe too stiff? Or does the downturned 'pointed' toe position bother you?

Staying in La Sportiva:
finale, oxygym, mythos, tarantula(ce) are flatter than katanas, and have varying stiffness.

TC Pros should feel very similar to the katanas but they're worth trying on if your local shop carries them.

maverinks have no midsole (plastic piece in the sole) so they will form to your foot.

cobras will be aggressive out of the box but they're less stiff than the katanas and they'll flatten out if you use them for a few months.

The rest of the line is more aggressive than the katanas.

Scarpa and evolv shoes fit similar foot shapes to sportiva, if your local shops carry them.

sportiva's website is the best of the big shoe brands, they make it really easy to find last, sole, and midsole information for their shoes.


ploots fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Dec 11, 2018

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.
every time i think about upgrading shoes from my incredibly standard boring rear end shoes i look at a chart like that or i go to MEC and they all hurt in ways i didnt think imaginable and then i stop thinking about shoes for a while

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)


I got some Vapor Vs last week that felt fine the first time I climbed in them, and then Saturday gave me a huge blister on top of my big toe. Shoes are fickle.

Tactical Lesbian
Mar 31, 2012

started with oxygyms, tore through them quickly with beginner's footwork. got mythos and i see why so many people have these and get them resoled time after time

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Does anyone have suggestions for climbing podcasts distributed via RSS that are high quality?

I don't want to have to go to a website to access them.

Thanks much.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Ubiquitus posted:

Does anyone have suggestions for climbing podcasts distributed via RSS that are high quality?

I don't want to have to go to a website to access them.

Thanks much.

Use a podcast app on your phone (I use podcast addict)?

Enormocast
Bad beta
Rock and ice my epic
The firn line
For love of climbing
The run out

Dirt bag diaries but not climbing specific

Not sure if any of those use RSS

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
Training Beta and Power Company can both be good, seems to depend heavily on the guest though.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
Canadian Shield report:

Looks like there'd be great bouldering here if it weren't freezing and covered in snow. Gym in Sudbury is great. Dunno why I was worried about getting out of shape when I'm climbing 418' ladders multiple times a day. :v:

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

I went bouldering for the first time yesterday and now I'm kicking myself for not trying it out a few years ago when a gym opened up right off my train stop.

I definitely made the newbie mistake of using my upper body too much and plan on focusing on keeping my arms straight next time; now I just have to wait until my aging body stops being sore so I can cimb again.

EDIT: In a lot of ways it reminded me of skateboarding: you try something over and over again until you get it and in between you watch someone else. The community at my gym is also super welcoming and had the perfect mixture of giving helpful advice and letting you fail on your own.

Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 23, 2018

jet_dee
May 20, 2007
Blah blah blah Nationstates is cool blah blah blah
Sounds awesome, good job for getting started regardless of whether it was now or a few years back!

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Climbing is a blast, and also has an infinite amount of growth potential; it never gets dull.

Glad to have you as a part of the community!

Tactical Lesbian
Mar 31, 2012

just got back from bishop, my first climbing trip! i had a fantastic time in the gorge, and what an approach if you take the middle parking area! buttermilks can be incredibly windy at night -- we had 40mph winds one night this week, under which a friend's tent collapsed!

i feel like i made a bunch of progress this week. was doing 5.10a/b routes in the gorge trying hard. didn't have to bail off any but drat i was close! i just kept at it and didn't give up, though! returned to civilization and just flashed a gym 5.11b i looked at like "huh i wanna try that"; prior to this week i had only ever done two 5.11a!

feels good, friendos. climb on!

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Tactical Lesbian posted:

just got back from bishop, my first climbing trip! i had a fantastic time in the gorge, and what an approach if you take the middle parking area! buttermilks can be incredibly windy at night -- we had 40mph winds one night this week, under which a friend's tent collapsed!

i feel like i made a bunch of progress this week. was doing 5.10a/b routes in the gorge trying hard. didn't have to bail off any but drat i was close! i just kept at it and didn't give up, though! returned to civilization and just flashed a gym 5.11b i looked at like "huh i wanna try that"; prior to this week i had only ever done two 5.11a!

feels good, friendos. climb on!

Congrats! Nothing like a solid outdoor trip to inspire you to work hard back in the gym.

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009
I spent the past weekend at Shelf Road, and was super-worried how bad it was going to go, seeing as how I am 9 months post ACL reconstruction and had 8 months in total off of climbing (I was allowed to start toproping again at the end of Oct.) . Not as bad as I thought! I'm only toproping .9s, but sending .10s at the gym. Hoping ice climbing goes well next weekend.

Now to get back into trad shape by spring.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


My wife is getting going with climbing and inherited an old unused pair of shoes from like 10 years ago. They are solid looking beginner shoes, but are still 10 years old. Is the rubber usable? Should I like sand off an outer layer of hard stuff?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
If there's an outer layer of hard stuff, the wall will sand it off quickly enough I suspect.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

ShaneB posted:

My wife is getting going with climbing and inherited an old unused pair of shoes from like 10 years ago. They are solid looking beginner shoes, but are still 10 years old. Is the rubber usable? Should I like sand off an outer layer of hard stuff?

I think I've used shoes that are maybe 7 or 8 years old and don't remember the rubber being an issue, most likely she'll wear through them and get new ones long before the stickiness of the rubber is holding her back.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Sweet. Free shoes good. No more rentals at the gym!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I am off climbing for a few months after breaking my collar bone 2 days ago. More bummed about my ski season than climbing but still is a bummer.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

I am off climbing for a few months after breaking my collar bone 2 days ago. More bummed about my ski season than climbing but still is a bummer.

Ack, that sucks. Bouldering fall? Or not a climbing related injury?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

15' to flat while snowboarding. Right to my shoulder. Could be worse but oh well.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Ffffffff that sucks man. Was looking forward to climbing with you soon.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

ShaneB posted:

Ffffffff that sucks man. Was looking forward to climbing with you soon.

Just have to make it this spring!

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF
REI has a bunch of shoes (including the Vapor Vs, which I love) on clearance right now because it's that time of year when updated models are gonna come out

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011

Hot Diggity! posted:

REI has a bunch of shoes (including the Vapor Vs, which I love) on clearance right now because it's that time of year when updated models are gonna come out

Oh poo poo good to know. My tenayas ate getting pretty beat up and for whatever reason have started really hurting on my big toe knuckle again when they hadn't for years.

Hauki
May 11, 2010


they only had the vapor Vs left in bizarro sizes though, which I suppose is just as well because I need a lot of other things before I need a new pair of shoes

I did get a decent gift card to REI for Christmas so I’m trying to get a shopping list going for other gear

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Hauki posted:

they only had the vapor Vs left in bizarro sizes though, which I suppose is just as well because I need a lot of other things before I need a new pair of shoes

I did get a decent gift card to REI for Christmas so I’m trying to get a shopping list going for other gear

More draws and bouldering pads my lad

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF

Hauki posted:

they only had the vapor Vs left in bizarro sizes though, which I suppose is just as well because I need a lot of other things before I need a new pair of shoes

I did get a decent gift card to REI for Christmas so I’m trying to get a shopping list going for other gear

I wear 9.5 or 10 US and have no problems with 42.5 EU sizing so seems like they have normal sizes left

Hauki
May 11, 2010


Hot Diggity! posted:

I wear 9.5 or 10 US and have no problems with 42.5 EU sizing so seems like they have normal sizes left

When I looked earlier it skipped from like, men’s 37 to men’s 47

Boner Pill Connoisseur
Apr 23, 2002

I took the blue pill.

Kylaer posted:

I'd like a recommendation for new shoes, please. I currently have a pair of La Sportiva Katanas, with laces, and I like everything about them except that the toe box is a little too aggressive. They're not a super aggressive shoe anyway but I want something I can wear for extended periods at the gym because I don't like taking my shoes off. I don't want to just get a larger size because the fit of the heel and midfoot is perfect.

I like my finales as a gym shoe, but it's worth getting them resoled with stealth/unparallel rubber because the stock rubber on sportivas sucks rear end

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SavageBastard
Nov 16, 2007
Professional Lurker
Last year, after months on the couch, I started getting into the gym a ton and climbing regularly. By summer I was climbing 5.11 (outdoor) sport routes consistently and making fair attempts at 5.12's on 90 degree humid days. I couldn't wait for the temps to drop so I could start real projects. Unfortunately, just before the weather turned, I came down with a brutal case of medial epicondylitis and possibly chronic compartment syndrome in my forearms (never got it formally checked out). I retrospect, the signs were there and I just chalked it up to training pains. I promptly took a week off hoping it would resolve, which then turned into 2 weeks and now over 4 months. I think I'm ready to start easing back into the gym and I bought some elastic bands to start working on my forearm extensor muscles and whatnot in hopes of staving off a repeat. I'm getting kind of old (40's) so obviously I'm at greater risk for this kind of thing.

Does anyone have any experience with climbing hard but staving these injuries off? I've obviously looked into a variety of advice resources available on the web but I'd love to hear people's tales and suggestions.

Thanks.

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