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So my wife got me an x-one2 for Christmas. Any pointers or starting points aside from the OP for this model? (Already not a makerbot I think)
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Dec 25, 2018 06:36
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Craptacular posted:The part is what holds the needles on a Singer serger. It's the U-shaped part in the front, held in by screws. Do you know which model? There's a ton of replacement parts online but I can't seem to find something like it randomly clicking on sergers and looking around: https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/singer-sewing-machine-parts-model-list.aspx If you can't find it, that wouldn't be too hard to model most likely as long as it's a consistent depth. The picture can be brought into Fusion 360 and you can Sketch the shape you need, then extrude out the height and add holes by sketching circles and extruding them into cylinders that cut into the original shape. The edges can be beveled/countersunk after the shape is correct. I'd give it a shot but I'm a bit busy for most of this week.
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Dec 25, 2018 08:37
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Mulloy posted:So my wife got me an x-one2 for Christmas. Any pointers or starting points aside from the OP for this model? (Already not a makerbot I think) I haven't heard of that printer before, but the OP of this thread is from 2010 so any advice is going to be pretty ancient. New printers come out so often that even two year old ones seem like old printers in the industry. As a general start, refer to what was included with your printer to begin. Often they put the manual on an SD or microsd card along with some sample prints as .gcode files. Your printer reads in gcode files to tell it what to do so you can print from the included ones to begin. When you want to print other stuff you'll need slicing software that can take in 3d model files (usually .stl or .obj) and generate .gcode files the printer can read. Cura is popular slicing software for chinese printer models but your printer manual may suggest something else. I'd start with what they suggest but the most popular slicers seem to be Cura, Slic3r, and Simplify 3d. The slicer will use settings for your printer and 3d models to generate .gcode files for the printer to print. Cura will probably not have a default profile for your printer since it's not a mainstream one they support (mine didn't used to be but now it has a profile). It's not bad to find some settings online or from the manual. Old Cura could derive settings from a gcode file but I'm not sure that's available any more. It is definitely worthwhile to see if there's a facebook group or support forum for your printer where people will have advice for that specific model although you can ask here as well. This guy has some Cura settings listed for the printer that may or may not be correct (I have no way to verify them but they may be a good starting point): https://jpstanley.blogspot.com/2018/01/cura-settings-for-qidi-tech-x-one2-3d.html A good place to find free 3d models to print is https://www.thingiverse.com but there are others like https://www.youmagine.com/ as well. If you want to make your own models you'll need some 3d design software. TinkerCAD is a good basic one by Autodesk while Fusion 360 which is their higher end product has a startup license which is free as long you're not using it as a business that makes over $100,000 a year. Of course there's tons of other options, but I've been learning Fusion 360 because it seems to be well liked for being full featured but also inexpensive as long as you're not making a ton of money from it (and if you are the license fees would be worthwhile). This guy set one up and printed with it fairly easily and it seemed like he mostly just followed the manual. I didn't glean much useful information from the video other than he had pretty strong build plate adhesion on his first print so you may want to use a little extra glue to get a good interface layer between the bed and the print: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_PaDHk8rGo
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Dec 25, 2018 08:47
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Rexxed posted:words Thanks, man. I will take this into account as I print barbie armor for my daughter. Haha.
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Dec 25, 2018 10:14
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Any advice I have for a new printer owner is to not be afraid of printing, or being stingy about trying to save plastic. Yes, plastic is $11/lb. It used to be $40/lb, and being stingy then made sense. Trying to save like 3 cents on a model isn't worth the failed prints or substandard quality. Same thing with speed. 3D printers are much slower than 2D printers -- trying to go 20% faster can ruin the quality of a part. Print at 25% fill, and 3 perimeters, .15 layer height, 7 top layers, 30mm/sec ... until you've learned enough to know what settings to change.
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Dec 25, 2018 18:57
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Next version of Slic3r PE looking fantastic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoAL6zwERg8
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Dec 26, 2018 00:13
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insta posted:Any advice I have for a new printer owner is to not be afraid of printing, or being stingy about trying to save plastic. Yes, plastic is $11/lb. It used to be $40/lb, and being stingy then made sense. Trying to save like 3 cents on a model isn't worth the failed prints or substandard quality. Same thing with speed. 3D printers are much slower than 2D printers -- trying to go 20% faster can ruin the quality of a part. Good advice Regular printer service is - way oil (or white lithium) for the rails and leadscrews, altho if it drips on the bed, it needs to be cleaned with - isopropyl or acetone for cleaning organics off PEI beds, - regular backups of your config files, both slicer and firmware, - hotend cleaning, made easier if you rotate clean spares, - hobbed bolt cleaning, to clean out the hob notches of plastic powder, - spare steppers and drivers on hand. I like having spares, but 2-day shipping lets us all practice kanban. People could probably add other stuff
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Dec 26, 2018 01:00
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Rexxed posted:Do you know which model? There's a ton of replacement parts online but I can't seem to find something like it randomly clicking on sergers and looking around: My mom took her machine to a local repair shop and they tried replacing the broken part with the new part shown. However it didn't fit; apparently Singer changed the model slightly at one point and despite what the page says, the new style part won't fit her machine. She has the old style.
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Dec 26, 2018 04:02
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Got my ender 3 and assembled it last night. Trying my first print and I can't get the center of the bed level. I assume that means I have a wonky bed. Any ideas in fixing this? For now I'm printing my calibration cube at the edge where it will hopefully be a bit more level.... Tense times ahead! http://imgur.com/a/iaQhLaf A bit of lifting in the corner, what look likes some retraction and extrusion errors, but as a total noob I'm happy. The fact i had it set to 0% infill as well means I'm amazed it has a top! Grey Hunter fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Dec 26, 2018 |
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Dec 26, 2018 11:16
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I have a ender 3 as well with a wonky bed. Some people have desoldered the heater and then lapped the aluminum sheet to flatten it but that's a bit extreme. I think most people just buy glass or mirror and binder clip it to the bed to get a flat surface. You can by a 6 of 12x12" mirrors from home depot for $10 and cut one or two to size. Some people on reddit say just using non borosilicate glass (or glass in general) isn't a wonderful idea as regular glass is more temperature sensitive due to thermal expansion. I've just dealt with a wonky bed thus far as I've only printed small items and the center portion of my bed is relatively flat.
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Dec 26, 2018 19:45
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I've ordered some glass. It seems to be the center of the bed that's off, so I'm doing my printing at the edge. Second cube was cleaner with so increased retraction. I've calibrated the extruder and found it was 20% underextruding. So I think I've fixed that as well. I'll run another cube to check it later. Fun so far!
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Dec 26, 2018 20:47
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dyne posted:I've just dealt with a wonky bed thus far as I've only printed small items and the center portion of my bed is relatively flat. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Dec 26, 2018 |
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Dec 26, 2018 22:17
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I've printed my first dickbutt. Thanks folks.
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Dec 26, 2018 22:25
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Grey Hunter posted:I've ordered some glass. It seems to be the center of the bed that's off, so I'm doing my printing at the edge. My bigger TronXY machine, the X5S, has a 330x330 bed with a full millimeter of sag in the center. Even with a big slab of boro on that, I still had to shim the middle a little bit with a couple small sheets of aluminum foil to get it level all the way across. You *shouldn't* have to do that on yours, but just in case, I wanted to make sure you know that it's A Thing You Can Do. 
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Dec 26, 2018 22:46
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Grey Hunter posted:I've ordered some glass. It seems to be the center of the bed that's off, so I'm doing my printing at the edge. The bed on my maker select was pretty flat when I got it but with more printing at bed temps of 80C and 100C it seems to have bowed up in the middle a bit. I have glass on top with some silicone thermal pad material in between that helps keep everything mostly level. I've also had a lot better results by printing on glass than anything else so far.
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Dec 26, 2018 22:58
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What's the goto resin printer right now that's not ridicubucks expensive? Anycubic Photon? Anything in the pipeline that might be worth waiting for?
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Dec 27, 2018 15:50
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Yooper posted:What's the goto resin printer right now that's not ridicubucks expensive? Anycubic Photon? Anything in the pipeline that might be worth waiting for? https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-sl1/ If this is anything like their FDM printers, it will probably be pretty awesome.
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Dec 27, 2018 15:52
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Yooper posted:What's the goto resin printer right now that's not ridicubucks expensive? Anycubic Photon? Anything in the pipeline that might be worth waiting for? I don’t have any experience with resin printers other than the Photon, but I’ve had extremely good luck with it so far. Any issues I’ve had have been all due to my own error. Supports and orientation are completely different with resin printing so it’s been a bit of a learning curve, but I absolutely love the results I get out of this thing.
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Dec 28, 2018 23:37
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Doing my first test prints with the Voron. I sprang for TMC steppers on XYE, and Jesus, them in combination with dampeners are just so drat silent. I can actually let 24h prints run without feeling guilty of disturbing the neighbors whatsoever.
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Dec 29, 2018 19:38
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Combat Pretzel posted:Doing my first test prints with the Voron. I sprang for TMC steppers on XYE, and Jesus, them in combination with dampeners are just so drat silent. I can actually let 24h prints run without feeling guilty of disturbing the neighbors whatsoever. Nice. How rough was the voron build, you used those 2.1 plans?
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Dec 29, 2018 19:49
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I'm pretty new to 3D printing, and I've been having a consistent issue with bed adhesion. I use a Creality CR-10, and I've been printing with PLA. My bed temperature is set to 60C. I've tried cleaning the glass plate several times with various glass cleaners, and I've tried printing with a raft and a brim. I've also tried slowing the print speed for the first few layers to make sure its sticking. None of these seem to have helped. Sometimes it comes off the bed completely, ruining the print, but more often than not it'll start to peel off the tray at one end. Are there any special cleaning methods I should using? I saw some people who put a layer of tape or wax paper down, but I don't know if they had heated beds or not. Sorry if this has been answered before, I didn't see any kind of FAQ in the OP.
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Dec 29, 2018 20:22
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The Baumann posted:I'm pretty new to 3D printing, and I've been having a consistent issue with bed adhesion. I use a Creality CR-10, and I've been printing with PLA. My bed temperature is set to 60C. I've tried cleaning the glass plate several times with various glass cleaners, and I've tried printing with a raft and a brim. I've also tried slowing the print speed for the first few layers to make sure its sticking. None of these seem to have helped. Sometimes it comes off the bed completely, ruining the print, but more often than not it'll start to peel off the tray at one end. Are there any special cleaning methods I should using? I saw some people who put a layer of tape or wax paper down, but I don't know if they had heated beds or not. Doesn't the CR-10 come with lovely yellow painters tape to apply to the bed? You can try blue painters tape or hairspray or glue stick
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Dec 29, 2018 20:29
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FWIW my build plate is 60C for PLA and consists of a glass plate covered with buildtak. Don't touch the surface with your bare skin and don't gently caress it up with harsh solvents like acetone and it's been a maintenance free flawless surface for me for years. A metal Scott e Peeler for print removal rounds it all out. Never is a strong word but I have NEVER had a problem nor felt the need to seek anything better.
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Dec 29, 2018 20:29
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Same. Avoid acetone (slowly fucks with PEI/buildtak over time, especially if used hot), don't touch it, and you'll be good. Sometimes I use purple glue stick, even with PLA. It neither hurts nor helps, and I have to use it for flexible filaments and ABS anyway. Scotty peelers are very nice, too. Couldn't live without mine. Queen Combat fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Dec 29, 2018 |
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Dec 29, 2018 20:34
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I put a thin coat of glue stick on my glass bed, it seems to help with initial adhesion and also provides a layer of something between the glass and print so you can actually remove the print. I've seen blue painter's tape, polyimide tape (kapton tape), and PEI used as well but I've been pretty happy with glue sticks. I was using Elmer's school glue but switched to these big honkers from amazon basics which are very cheap and let you make a wide line of glue: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073V1K1HK/ Since it's water soluble you can clean the build plate fully of glue if you want to, but I usually just scrape the area I'm printing with a utility knife blade and then lay down some fresh glue before a print. Prints will end up with a little glue on the bottom but I just brush them under some running water. For print removal the included putty knife scraper thing is usually too thick so I've used the Scotty Peeler: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WFMGYK and recently have been using a wood chisel: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOVP8KY/ They're both good but I found the peeler left more marks on the print sometimes and a chisel is a little cleaner. I like the one I linked because you can fold it closed and not have to worry about leaving it lying around due to being sharp. Be careful not to hold your print or bed and push the tool in the direction of your arm or hand because prints pop off and it's a good way to stab yourself.
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Dec 29, 2018 20:35
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I use the same gigantic glue sticks. They're nice. That's a dope chisel, too!
Queen Combat fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Dec 29, 2018 |
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Dec 29, 2018 20:37
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The Eyes Have It posted:FWIW my build plate is 60C for PLA and consists of a glass plate covered with buildtak. I'll look into Buikdtak, I've never heard of it before. Thanks for the responses, I'm trying a print with masking tape down now.
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Dec 29, 2018 20:43
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I got my father in law an Ender 3 for Christmas and now I have printer envy  I got a Select Mini a couple years back and it was such a poo poo to get running nice. This is just so good out of the box
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Dec 29, 2018 20:44
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PLA sticks perfectly to glass if it is - heated to 60 celsius - cleaned with Windex - properly leveled - properly squished Heating is obvious, leveling is obvious but if you're new you may not appreciate how fine of an adjustment it is so keep working on that. First-layer squish is critical and with a 0.4mm nozzle your traces should be spreading out to about 0.7mm wide -- you may be too high. I clean the bed with Windex because I find that it does a better job of removing organic residue than the other common solvents; isopropanol doesn't remove everything, while acetone tends to evaporate too quickly and just ends up redistributing gunk. Plain blue Windex cleans the glass until it squeaks, which is what you want. Don't touch the bed after cleaning either because your finger oils will prevent adhesion.
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Dec 29, 2018 20:50
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I actually use Windex to clean my bed to keep PETG from sticking. Windex leaves a bit of a residue (very small, but there), that prevents the PETG from permanently gluing to the PEI or buildtak. If I use isopropyl, guaranteed I'll ruin a sheet with the next PETG print. The "squeaky clean" feeling usually means, with fingers, there's something there - same concept with soap scum and hard water. Hard water "feels" cleaner because it squeaks, the microscopically thin layer of soap scum creating a friction zone with finger oils and the dimensions of the fingerprint, but truly clean surfaces slide, they don't squeak. That said, Windex is still very good for printing overall, and Sagebrush's advice is solid.
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Dec 29, 2018 20:55
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Yeah, that is correct. It is completely possible to ruin even a glass bed with over-adhesion. Back when I was starting out I tried the 50-50 water/white glue mixture that was somewhat popular at the time, and one PLA part stuck so well to both the glue and the bed that when it cooled and contracted, it tore a chunk of glass out of the bed in a beautiful conchoidal fracture like an arrowhead. Windex is, for me, the perfect balance of enough adhesion but not too much for both PLA (60C) and PETG (85-90C). If something (nylon/ABS) needs a little more, the purple Elmer's gluesticks are all I use.
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Dec 29, 2018 21:04
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I'm printing PLA on blue tape on a cold bed. Works OK.mewse posted:Nice. How rough was the voron build, you used those 2.1 plans? The nearly complete one was still worth it, because I can finally print things without multiple starting attempts, because of a cheap crooked aluminium plate. 
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Dec 29, 2018 22:02
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I just got my Ender 3 assembled. It was easier than I was expecting but a little frustrating because they sent me a bag of M4*14-P bolts with t-slot nuts instead of the M4*16 bolts with lock washer things they were supposed to include, but I have a variety box of M4 bolts so I had the right ones on hand. Every bag of bolts included either one or two extra of each bolt which is nice. After some dinner I'm going to sit down and check it over because of some tightness in the y axis travel. I figure I'll make sure things are moving normally before I fire it up but so far things seem good despite the one little issue. One build guide suggested a little white lithium grease for the Z-axis lead screw. I have a little syringe of teflon grease on hand, is there going to be much of a difference? I think there's a spray can of white lithium somewhere but I'd rather use a syringe if there's not a practical difference.
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Dec 30, 2018 03:20
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Rexxed posted:I just got my Ender 3 assembled. It was easier than I was expecting but a little frustrating because they sent me a bag of M4*14-P bolts with t-slot nuts instead of the M4*16 bolts with lock washer things they were supposed to include, but I have a variety box of M4 bolts so I had the right ones on hand. Every bag of bolts included either one or two extra of each bolt which is nice. After some dinner I'm going to sit down and check it over because of some tightness in the y axis travel. I figure I'll make sure things are moving normally before I fire it up but so far things seem good despite the one little issue. Synthetic ptfe (teflon) grease should be fine. Oil based grease could possibly hurt the plastic parts on the printer
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Dec 30, 2018 03:42
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mewse posted:Synthetic ptfe (teflon) grease should be fine. Oil based grease could possibly hurt the plastic parts on the printer Thanks, I used the PTFE stuff and it seems fine. The Ender 3 is printing its demo file and my Maker Select is making a fan guard for the Ender 3. Can't wait to move these noise machines into the unfinished basement. I wasn't a huge fan of the Maker Select control box menus but I got used to them and the Ender 3 ones seem worse, somehow. Setting up another Octopi ASAP. Since these will eventually be located further from the PC I'm considering the touch UI control plugin. Has anyone used it?. Of course knowing myself I'll probably just setup a spare computer on the bench with them.
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Dec 30, 2018 07:40
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Still fighting some sort of extrusion problem. It seems to struggle with infill and the bridging layer above infill, even when I set infill to the same speed as everything else. It Just wants to struggle to extrude. It's the most bizarre issue Anything obvious might be missing?
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Dec 30, 2018 11:24
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Combat Pretzel posted:I'm printing PLA on blue tape on a cold bed. Works OK. Can recommend printing onto a roughed up cold polycarbonate sheet for quick rough prints the light plastic weld works well enough for PLA and PETG
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Dec 30, 2018 11:27
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Jestery posted:Still fighting some sort of extrusion problem. Replace your nozzle. That's it 90% of the time, and they're like a dollar. Some filaments are just super lovely and clog them like every five hours. If that's the case, just toss the filament too. If that wasn't it, then you still have a good nozzle. If it was, yay! However, do not stare at, the nozzle.
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Dec 30, 2018 11:36
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I have a Fusion 360 question, and 3D Printer Expert Extraordinaire and all around awesome poster Queen Combat directed me to this very thread. I'm trying to model a lot that we bought, to illustrate how the different buildings will sit, elevation wise. The end result should be a 3D print of the terrain plus buildings. The lot is basically a rectangle, and I have the elevations from the survey. How can I make a super simple polygon mesh in one plane, then elevate certain points/vertices to a value I set? Or another approach to model a terrain where a finite number of surface points are known.
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Dec 30, 2018 12:01
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Queen Combat posted:Replace your nozzle. That's it 90% of the time, and they're like a dollar. Some filaments are just super lovely and clog them like every five hours. If that's the case, just toss the filament too. It's a genuine e3d, but I've put a few kilos of wood fill through it, so like, yeah maybe. Ty
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Dec 30, 2018 12:11
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