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hey I figure I could throw this out here even though it's not really metalwork. I someone here would know or at least be able to point me in the right direction. I got various old time files and tools but none of them have handles. I got some hunks of wood I shaped the way I want and now it's time to figure out the ferrules and how to drill a hole for the tang. I know the tang size but I also have only hand tools (although I could borrow a drill). What's the best way to make the correct pilot holes and also how should I do my ferrules? I was planning on just using some copper pipe I have. Basically drill some kinda hole slightly smaller than the tang and then line up both the ferrule and file and bonk them down in by popping the bottom of the handle against a table. The files have what basically look like normal tangs for that type of file and just a straight hole seems kinda incorrect? Wouldn't that leave a shitload of empty space inside and make it get loose over time? Plus the tang cross section is rectangular not circular.
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Dec 18, 2018 08:33
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What do people think of the Lincoln Viking 3350 helmet? Is it the best one out there? What do yo personally think is the best helmet. I thought it was Optrel 684 that was king poo poo, but I read people doing reviews with and saying the Lincoln has even better clarity and was cheaper. I am interested in that one now. There are also Kemppi helmets of course (Beta 90X), but I don't think anyone here has used those. Not heard anything negative about those either. And even more obscurely is Aketek, which is a recently started company by the guy who invented the speedglass tech. But just because he invented it doesn't mean his stuff is the greatest in 2018.
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Dec 18, 2018 12:25
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SniperWoreConverse posted:hey I figure I could throw this out here even though it's not really metalwork. I someone here would know or at least be able to point me in the right direction. I don't know if it's the right way but I drill a smaller diameter hole than the tang the right depth then bonk the file into the hole as an interference fit.
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Dec 18, 2018 15:04
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A hole the diameter of the tip of the tang or what? Cause the wider part of the tang is basically huge compared to the tip
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Dec 18, 2018 21:25
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SniperWoreConverse posted:A hole the diameter of the tip of the tang or what? Cause the wider part of the tang is basically huge compared to the tip You want all or most of the Tang in the handle. Try the mid Tang dimension as your hole to start with. Press your handle on by hand and then hammer it on. You want to hold the handle and let the file hang so you're just hitting against the file's momentum and not compressing/buckling the file against a hard stop.
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Dec 18, 2018 21:49
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His Divine Shadow posted:What do people think of the Lincoln Viking 3350 helmet? Is it the best one out there? What do yo personally think is the best helmet. I thought it was Optrel 684 that was king poo poo, but I read people doing reviews with and saying the Lincoln has even better clarity and was cheaper. I am interested in that one now. I hear good things about Kemppi gear in general. The sentinel a50 is supposed to be solid too
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Dec 20, 2018 00:10
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Los Angeles-area goons: maybe if you have some holiday vacation or weekend time to kill, go check out this exhibit before it ends at the end of the year: https://www.fowler.ucla.edu/exhibitions/striking-iron/ it looks pretty amazing. If you can't make it, check the article and the virtual tour.
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Dec 20, 2018 20:50
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 So my wife's treadmill electronics stopped working, so I did like any good husband would do and immediately cannibalized it for the motor and linear actuator. I bought an ac-dc speed controller and was wondering if I should connect the 2 ground wires (1 from outlet cable and 1 from motor) to the - terminal or should I just connect them together away from the controller box?
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Dec 20, 2018 22:39
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Fun video about Whitworth, very thread relevant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-xMCFOwllE
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Dec 22, 2018 20:16
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I made some poo poo. I'm pretty lazy about doing "build photos" so I took most of the pics today, and the thing has already been used a couple times, but I started and finished the mount I'd planned so I don't have to carry it around by hand. "So what the gently caress is it"? Its a hydraulic jack. I use it for pulling soil sampling tools out of the ground. My boss bought me this fancy new drill a month or two ago, but its a bit different than some our others, as a result, the winch, and "head" even combined can sometimes have difficulty pulling our soil sampling tools out of the ground, especially if its very hard soil, or the shale bedrock that is normally found around here. Its got two cylinders at 2.5" diameter, that provide about 24,500 pounds of pulling force at 2500 psi. Not pictured is the "box" that goes on top that actually grips the rods when pulling. Observe the glory of my skilllzz: 1 1/4" thick steel. It literally took 4 hours to drill that 2 3/4" hole. Even with a fresh hole saw blade.  Base had already been done  Same. The welds even look as though they were done by someone that might have a basic competence in welding.  6 inch wide C Channel and 1/4" steel plate  Top plate and tube with my high tech alignment electrical tape. As I mentioned, I've already used this thing, so the tape got a little bit hosed up, since the cylinders don't extend and retract at the exact same rate. I need to bleed them a bit more I think.  Cylinders all hosed up  Quick connects to hook to the drill when its needed. Space is an issue, so hard lining it wasn't really an option.  All done  Mount on the back jack leg.   Mounted up.  
wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Dec 23, 2018 |
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Dec 23, 2018 02:00
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How heavy is that? I can't imagine that is much fun to lug around.
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Dec 23, 2018 18:22
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Telsa Cola posted:How heavy is that? I can't imagine that is much fun to lug around. The cylinders according to Princess auto website are 22 pounds each, the top plate, was pretty heavy, I asked the guy for 1 inch, but I dunno, he gave me 1 1/4"..... I'd guess the whole thing is about 70 pounds. I can lift it pretty easy myself, but yeah, its definitely not something I want to lug around, hence the mount. My helper and I can handle it easily, and we use the winch when we can to save our backs.
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Dec 23, 2018 19:07
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Went back and forth on the welding helmets but I finally pulled the trigger on an ESAB Sentinel A50. Being able to source it locally for possible warranty issues + it being a very good price compared to helmets from other EU countries like germany or the UK, once VAT and freight came into play. Was actually cheaper then. I have to say I don't care for the look, but it just has such a consistently good reputation. The only negative I hear of is that the protective clear lens is easy to scratch if you put it upside down. But I've always been careful even with my chinese auto helmet.
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Dec 24, 2018 11:59
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Fun little metal casting video with a 3D print. Quite nice surface finish on a rather thin part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lb76R_f7ogY
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Dec 24, 2018 18:43
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Sigh. I need to get my head back in and do this stuff again some more.
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Dec 24, 2018 18:56
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You should really start a thread 
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Dec 24, 2018 21:19
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Some stick welds, 70 amps 2.5mm rod, 3 and 4mm thickness on the square tubing. I think this is th ebest stick welding joint I have made so far. I started out at 100 amps but that was too high, blew holes in the thinner wall tube when I tried doing an up hill pass, kept adjusting dowwards, maybe could have gone to 75A. They turned out nice though, and the welding machine is really nice to stick weld with, I can jam the electrode in real good and it won't give a drat, real hard to make the arc go out.  This I welded earlier at 100 amps, two passes, one root pass, just a straight stringer then a sort of weave.  I've done so little welding lately it feels like starting from zero again but towards the end it was going real well and I felt my skills improve. I have a stick welding remote controller but I have never used it, I have heard it's a supremely useful thing to have for a stick welder, some people think it's more valuable than a pedal for TIG. I should probably hook it up some day and see if it's all that useful.
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Dec 25, 2018 15:47
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I have welded the base and started putting it back together.   Here it is with the legs extended, now it's a nice ~87cm between the legs so a euro-pallet will easily fit inside. I still need to weld some supporting caps over the inner U-profiles where I also welded on more square profiles. With a lot of weight on the crane those might be weak points and fold. The wheels under them should help.  
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Dec 30, 2018 17:35
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Brekelefuw posted:
I'd just connect them to each other, skipping the - terminal.
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Dec 31, 2018 02:45
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Welding question(s): How are welds certified? Do they all have to get x rayed? I'm a decent, but far from expert welder, a guy I work with saw some welds I've done and was all "those would be certified". Dude used to work at a place that built vac trucks, and was supposedly a "welding inspector" among other things. I'm not sure what sort of training he was given, but when you consider the tanks are supposed to be pressure vessels, you'd hope he got something..... Like for all I know it could have been "here's an Xray device and here's how you use that bitch to look for flaws". Or his training could have been "this is what a good weld looks like, if they look like that, then they're probably fine". So How are they actually certified?
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Jan 1, 2019 01:04
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I'm no expert, but I think the welder would have to be certified by a recognized authority (AWS, EN, etc.), have a properly filled out Welding Procedure Specification form for that particular weld, then have that particular weld inspected by a Certified Welding Inspector and sign, stamp, or otherwise indicate on the WPS that that particular weld has passed inspection. If I was asking a vendor or shop to provide documentation on a weld, thats what I would expect (I'm a mechanical engineer).
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Jan 1, 2019 01:19
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This is just my own small experience of working a couple summers in a shipyard in college- not sure how universal this is. The yard did their own certification and classification of welders-class A could weld hull seams etc. Class B was mostly fitters/helpers to tack stuff while fitting and then a class A welder comes behind and does the real weld. A qualified welder is supposed to be able to do good welds, but they also had visual weld inspections done by their own inspectors, and then finally done by the ABS (American Bureau of Shipping) and navy inspectors after that. Most were visually inspected, but I think some were randomly inspected by x-ray or ultrasound or something. Some were also dye inspected because aluminum tends to form tiny hairline cracks at the margins of welds that will show up with dye. Critical stuff and piping was much more thoroughly inspected. I looked into getting AWS certified when I did a lot of welding, and it is pretty tough (and being nuclear certified is reaalllly tough) and in my experience not all welders are AWS certified, especially at the fabrication shop level. The test is mostly to do with stick welding pipe, which if you’re a shipyard mostly welding aluminum with MIG is not especially relevant. Being an AWS certified weld inspector is also pretty tough and requires a lot of training.
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Jan 1, 2019 02:32
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Ultrasonic testing is really prevalent for weld inspection as well. Shear wave is typically used, though I have zero experience with it. Eddy current could also be used but I expect it'd be for more limited use. Xray inspection is fairly expensive compared to UT so I'd think you'd only see it for high dollar stuff. Liquid penetrant is possible too, but it's a royal pain in the rear end.
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Jan 1, 2019 03:53
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Based on half-remembered info on my welding classes from about 10 years ago, to get certified you weld sample coupons when then get tested with x-ray and ultrasonic and if you can prove you make good welds, you're certified. It's probably a lot more complicated in real life. Actually certifying a single weld job would probably involve non-destructive testing methods mentioned, x-ray, ultrasonic or maybe magnetic particle inspection. In reality I bet most welds are just looked at and hit with a hammer a few times to make sure they don't crack right away, unless of course it's nuclear related, where they possibly actually test/certify it. Also, I just learned about Magnetic particle inspection
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Jan 1, 2019 05:14
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Mag particle is some awesome stuff, seen it done once
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Jan 1, 2019 05:16
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Fire Storm posted:In reality I bet most welds are just looked at and hit with a hammer a few times to make sure they don't crack right away I really wish I could look at my second welds just to see how bad they were. My first welds... Well.. my buddy's dad (the welder's owner), saw them and just whacked them with a hammer until everything fell apart. He told me to grind everything off and turn the loving gas on next time. That's basically the extent of my in-person welding lessons. Welding classes in my highschool were strictly limited to kids likely to continue farming. If you weren't in the Future Farmers of America club you weren't getting into that class. Everybody had to take wood shop class. I developed my love of lathes there. I was the only one allowed to use the lathe because can you imagine turning high school kids loose on a lathe? Jesus! It required some rehabilitation of some left-handed threads before it was even suitable for use for my bowl turning project. There "wasn't enough interest" to hold a metal shop/machining class despite having an entire machine shop. It was an entire section of the school building off-limits except one teacher had an office in there + some "exotic" wood storage. All those tools going to waste. They had a plasma cutter in there, in the 90's, and nobody got to use it! Even the FFA kids didn't get access to that side of the building! The rumor was that some kid made a knife in metal class right before Zero-Tolerance came about. Also a rumor: he didn't clamp his knife down before drilling holes in the tang with a drill press, the bit caught, and it tore his hands up. It still bothers me to this day to see YouTubers just holding on to poo poo as they drill holes in it on a drill press because drill bits can catch the work piece and turn into a violent, flesh ripping, spinning weapon. That poo poo bother's me! Just use some toe clamps or a vise! Stop trying to hold stuff in your hands!
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Jan 1, 2019 10:35
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Tech education is in a weird spot. I'm on the advisory board for our local community college for a technical program and they do a good job on hitting the basics for an associates. The bigger issue is the local businesses either want a CNC button pusher with minimal skills, for minimal cost, or a highly skilled individual. Not much for the 2 year middle ground. If they are willing to relocate the prospects get better, but most community college folks want to remain in the area. So it's a vicious catch-22. The high school still has a metal shop, however the community college no longer does. On the flip side you have a greater wealth of knowledge available on YouTube and places like Maker Spaces then ever before. It remains to be seen how this translates to employability. I'd like to think it does, but there's a big difference between being a scholarly muse working metal at a maker space compared to an employee who must make (good) welds all day. I have to give a talk to non-college track high school kids next month. I'll probably drag the 3d printer down and have it make something, but it's hardly indicative of actual work.
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Jan 1, 2019 18:45
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They really hosed the NDT certification system up here in Canada for about a decade, and it's going to cause a huge bottleneck in a few years as people keep retiring out and nobody sane wastes their time on it. Like, up until very recently to be fully certified as a UT-1 tech you needed something asinine like 400 hours of work experience before they let you take the test, and it had a 95% failure rate for candidates. It was insane. The kicker? If you don't have the actual ticket, you'd be doing poo poo-tier casual on-call work for somebody like Acuren to try and scrape together those hours. Five years of part-time barely above minimum wage? Who in their right mind would look at that and think "oh, yeah, this is the trade for me!" quote:The NRCan NDTCB has implemented a significant program update to its certification process for Non-Destructive Testing (NDT). The minimum percentage of qualifying work experience obtained by NDT candidates in order to be eligible for practical examination has been reduced from 50% to 25%. This means that candidates who have obtained 25% or more of their total required work experience hours (and have satisfied all minimum application requirements) are eligible to receive admittance to the NDT practical examination for a given method. Thankfully based on the above, somebody finally forcibly pulled heads out of asses and made them realize we'd have no qualified NDT techs in the country very soon. 
Rime fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jan 2, 2019 |
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Jan 2, 2019 00:20
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similarly, lmfao 1500 flight hour rule
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Jan 2, 2019 00:37
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e: ndt =/= welding, doy
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jan 2, 2019 |
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Jan 2, 2019 18:26
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Ambrose Burnside posted:The go-to question is- what speeds/feeds are you working with? The slower the feed relative to the spindle speed, the better a finish you'll get. The difference between turning a part at, say, 500 vs 1000 RPM at an identical feed rate can give markedly-different finishes. You've probably already tried this, though, it's low-hanging fruit. I'd guess the issue is tooling. This is all excellent advice and apologies for not responding earlier. I have been planning to learn how to grind tool bits since then, but one thing I just finished setting up is a fogbuster knockoff running Kool Mist 77. I just got the nicest, smoothest finish ever off of it with the same tooling and the same speeds and feeds (i.e. idk what that is quantitatively) and this is what I got: fresh on the chuck:  after a little soap and water:  There's a weird schmoo ring on the outer diameter I think was due to a birds nest and I didn't engage power feed for a few seconds. The middle part is mirror smooth to my finger tip, I think if I had locked the carriage it would have even been nicer. That picture really doesn't do it justice. Anyways, I highly recommend it for $18 bucks for the fog buster and $42 for a gallon of Kool Mix 77 just based off of the 5 seconds of screwing around I just did. 
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Jan 3, 2019 04:37
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Thinking about it, that crud on the outer ring is just from the parting tool from the previous op, it must have cut a dome shape and I just didn't turn it down far enough.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:39
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That looks real good! If you're still running that carbide, a word of caution- the material is prone to damage from thermal shock, especially right at the thin cutting edge. If you're using coolant, make sure to keep the nozzle on the tool while it's cutting at all times- intermittent coolant application is a great way to ruin that nice edge. It's real easy to jog the cutter away from the cooled worksite to do a quick plunge or something and not bother to rejigger your nozzle setup, the tool gets hot as hell, you bring it back into the spray while it's still hot, there goes your nice finish. If intermittent cooling is what's on tap for carbide for whatever process/geometry reasons, it can be safer to take the cut nice and slow with no coolant. That said, you've got a better setup than the hobbyist gold standard of "periodic spritzes from a bottle that formerly held Windex", so intermittent cooling isnt likely to be a frequent/unavoidable problem.
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Jan 3, 2019 21:03
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That looks real good! If you're still running that carbide, a word of caution- the material is prone to damage from thermal shock, especially right at the thin cutting edge. If you're using coolant, make sure to keep the nozzle on the tool while it's cutting at all times- intermittent coolant application is a great way to ruin that nice edge. It's real easy to jog the cutter away from the cooled worksite to do a quick plunge or something and not bother to rejigger your nozzle setup, the tool gets hot as hell, you bring it back into the spray while it's still hot, there goes your nice finish. If intermittent cooling is what's on tap for carbide for whatever process/geometry reasons, it can be safer to take the cut nice and slow with no coolant. Thanks! I'm pretty dang pleased with the results especially for the cost. Thanks for the heads up, hadn't thought of that but I have my broken old mag base stand stuck right on the cross slide to get it out of the chuck when working close up so win/win. I need to try this thing on the mill now.
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Jan 3, 2019 22:20
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I just signed up for a beginners blacksmithing course at the local art school http://crealde.org/classes/blacksmithing-fundamentals-2/?fbclid=IwAR25miM8Za1ow7YKsGQf2phbKbjiI-GJaJbDszmHb07nvXOuYsfhcUHvF3k Very excited!
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Jan 4, 2019 03:47
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SniperWoreConverse posted:A hole the diameter of the tip of the tang or what? Cause the wider part of the tang is basically huge compared to the tip Hole a bit larger than the tip of the tang, heat the tang up to cherry red with a blow torch. press it into the handle while hot, should get a tight fit, if not pop off and and some epoxy while cool.
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Jan 4, 2019 04:04
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wesleywillis posted:I made some poo poo. I loving hate you.... When i was doing core sampling and I could do the work with the drill rig it was fine- the rockmaster rigs have about 2 tonnes of lift capacity so that wasnt an issue, and if we couldnt pull a tube with the main lift rams you could use the massive rams on the stabiliser legs of the vehicle to pull em out cos that would get a 4 tonne landcruiser nearly half a meter off the ground. Tho when I did hand sampling where you couldnt get the rig to the site, then it was all done with a lever winch. I had a 500kg winch, and a 3000kg winch, and if the pipe wouldnt come back up out of the ground, it was fit the 3000kg winch and slide a 1m core tube over the handle and swing and hang and bounce on the fucker until the tube released or you tore the top off the push tube...
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Jan 5, 2019 01:03
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Ferremit posted:I loving hate you.... When i was doing core sampling and I could do the work with the drill rig it was fine- the rockmaster rigs have about 2 tonnes of lift capacity so that wasnt an issue, and if we couldnt pull a tube with the main lift rams you could use the massive rams on the stabiliser legs of the vehicle to pull em out cos that would get a 4 tonne landcruiser nearly half a meter off the ground. That sounds like pretty reasonably placed hate to me.
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Jan 5, 2019 01:06
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Ferremit posted:I loving hate you.... When i was doing core sampling and I could do the work with the drill rig it was fine- the rockmaster rigs have about 2 tonnes of lift capacity so that wasnt an issue, and if we couldnt pull a tube with the main lift rams you could use the massive rams on the stabiliser legs of the vehicle to pull em out cos that would get a 4 tonne landcruiser nearly half a meter off the ground. Combined the head and winch on this thing will pull 14,500 pounds. I forget what that is in Kg, but in the 'hood of 7000Kg +/-. Sometimes thats not enough, and I've used the jack legs before to pull them out, but that tends to break/bend the legs or attachment points. Problem is the dill is near brand new (less than 200 hours on it) and cost about 200,000$ CDN. Boss wants to pay it off quick, so he seems like he's got it booked 24/7. The Geoprobe I used to run before this thing arrived had 40,000 pounds of pull. So pulling sampling tools wasn't a problem. Most of the time........ And the other one we've got, its got a cathead and rope so you can "bump" the samplers out if need be. We've got a couple of those hand jacks, or winches as you call them, and I've done the same, 8 feet (2.5?M) of AW rods sticking out each end, my helper and I hanging, bouncing, jumping on them trying to yank poo poo out. We've bent the jack to the point of uselessness before. And of course the consultant is all "can you get one more sample"? Problem is, in sites where you can't get the machine in to power the hydro jack you gotta use the manual bullshit. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Jan 5, 2019 |
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Jan 5, 2019 02:02
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| # ? May 10, 2024 00:56 |
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I became really really good at unbolting beacons and poo poo like that to reduce overhead clearance and then letting tyres down to 5psi to sneak the drill rig under car ports into back yards of homes. Or driving it into impossible locations- ANYTHING to avoid hand sampling Actually- This is my old drill rig. One of my old workmates did a walkaround video on it after I got let go during the GFC! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uD2KiVE-OtA Ferremit fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Jan 5, 2019 |
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Jan 5, 2019 06:45
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