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Are oem filters generally seen as "OK"? Specifically in this case for a Subaru. Normally go for Wix but they were clearing these oem ones out for half the price so...
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Jan 2, 2019 13:53
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Oh god yes.
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Jan 2, 2019 17:50
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C-Bangin' it 
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Well poo poo. Thanks for the insights guys, I guess I've shelve my C4 reconstruction idea for the time being. I really didn't consider that stuff might not be available, but maybe screwing my Mercedes has left me spoiled... for those, everything is available, it's just that the invoice is payable in major organs instead of money.
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Jan 2, 2019 20:12
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Pursesnatcher posted:Well poo poo. Thanks for the insights guys, I guess I've shelve my C4 reconstruction idea for the time being. I really didn't consider that stuff might not be available, but maybe screwing my Mercedes has left me spoiled... for those, everything is available, it's just that the invoice is payable in major organs instead of money. Not to mention a mercedes factory dedicated to restoration if you
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Jan 2, 2019 22:32
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Twerk from Home posted:Is there any reason not to get lower cold weight oil if they're all the same price and same synthetic-ness? For example, 0w-20 instead of 5w-20 when the car calls for either weight? Mobil 1 full synth and a 1.0L turbo Fiesta, not that it should specifically matter. Usually it's fine either way unless you live in a really warm climate or your engine has stupid miles on it, then I'd recommend sticking with the heavier weight.
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Jan 2, 2019 22:44
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The FiST oil can be bought at Walmart and it is cheap as poo poo.
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Jan 2, 2019 23:11
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I drive a 2013 BMW 328i. I was recently rear-ended at about 5mph in a drive-thru at low speed by an F150. The bumper's cracked and there are a few gouges in the paint. Insurance estimated it at $1300, but the body shop I took it to told me it'd be $3k or more, and then told me to gently caress off, because the insurance company told me I had to have the body shop debate the estimate with them. Guy also told me I was an idiot for reporting my accident to insurance first, instead of taking the car to him before calling them. So I want to stop and talk to AI before I do something, in case that something is stupid. It seems that my next step ought to be to hunt around on Yelp for other body shops (or is bodywork something I should be asking about on BMW-specific forums instead?) and try to find one that will argue with my insurance about the cost. That said, I also found a used bumper in my color and trim level for $300 available on Bimmerpost. Would I be stupid to just buy that bumper and try to swap it myself and pocket the difference? I think I would be stupid to do that, but I wanted to ask first, in case I would be stupid NOT to do that.
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Jan 3, 2019 21:53
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If you trust your abilities to remove/replace the bumper skin, I'd be sorely tempted to do that myself.
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Jan 3, 2019 22:11
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Dadliest Worrier posted:I drive a 2013 BMW 328i. I was recently rear-ended at about 5mph in a drive-thru at low speed by an F150. The bumper's cracked and there are a few gouges in the paint. Insurance estimated it at $1300, but the body shop I took it to told me it'd be $3k or more, and then told me to gently caress off, because the insurance company told me I had to have the body shop debate the estimate with them. Guy also told me I was an idiot for reporting my accident to insurance first, instead of taking the car to him before calling them. You’ve found a bumper cover I’m guessing. That’s the exterior piece. The actual bumper is underneath it. Is that damaged? What is the difference from your insurance companies estimate to the body shops estimate? Is it just labor rate or are they wanting to replace items that your insurance wants to repair, or is saying isn’t warranted? At any rate this shop sounds terrible. There’s always a price difference between one places estimate to another. A good shop negotiates the price with the insurance and it’s totally behind the scenes to you. Call your local luxury dealer - who does the Porsche/Maserati/etc dealer contract their body work to? Chances are high they deal with insurance claims all the time and won’t be a giant pain in the rear end like this guy. Tl;dr: Post your estimates
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Jan 3, 2019 22:25
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The initial estimate at a body shop is done by their guys / insurance company, then parts are ordered. The car gets torn down once the parts come in and a supplemental order is made if (once) the body guys discover more poo poo is hosed than expected, along with all of the clips that got broken during disassembly. This would suck to deal with in a customer pay / personal work situation, so be very sure of what all is damaged before you go down the route you're thinking.
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Jan 3, 2019 22:29
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:You’ve found a bumper cover I’m guessing. That’s the exterior piece. The actual bumper is underneath it. Is that damaged? What is the difference from your insurance companies estimate to the body shops estimate? Is it just labor rate or are they wanting to replace items that your insurance wants to repair, or is saying isn’t warranted? Sorry, I forgot to include that. He told me it'd be between $3k and $4k. He thought it was likely that parts beneath the bumper cover were damaged as well. The insurance quote is $533 for a non-OEM bumper cover and the rest for labor and paint. I think BlackMK4 is probably right that I'll get partway into it and discover that I've dug a hole deeper than I know how to deal with. I'm tempted to believe I can just bolt on the new cover, but the reality is that since this is my only car and I'd be working on it in a parking lot somewhere, I'm probably getting too ambitious. This guy was a referral from a local indie BMW shop, which I tried because they offered a discount to BMW CCA members. I can definitely check in with the local dealership and see where they send their bodywork.
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Jan 3, 2019 23:03
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What's going on with the F-150's insurance company?
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Jan 3, 2019 23:32
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PainterofCrap posted:What's going on with the F-150's insurance company? I dunno. I passed his info along to my insurer, and that was that.
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Jan 3, 2019 23:39
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Negotiating with insurance companies should be a thing bodyshops do all the time so yeah... I would move on. I'd also be tempted by the bumper cover though; my wife has been low speed rear ended twice in the last couple years and both times there was no damage under the bumper cover.
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Jan 3, 2019 23:49
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The female connector on my low beams shorted and melted, best way to replace? 2006 Honda CR-V
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Jan 5, 2019 23:39
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I've got a 2003 Dodge Caravan with a mysterious coolant leak. It's a new-to-me vehicle and I got it for cheap so I'm still ironing out the bugs. It stopped heating a few days ago, noticed the coolant was low. Marker lines on the reservoir tracking coolant levels from previous owner. Poured in coolant and topped up the rad, still no heat. Replaced the thermostat. Over the course of a few days with maybe 5 miles total put on the thing the coolant level in the reservoir is noticeably lower. Rad coolant seems to be at the same level it was a few days ago. There does not appear to be a relationship between oil and coolant levels, so it's probably not the head gasket. I can't see coolant dripping anywhere though. Probably unrelated, it stalled going into drive today, but it was in pretty deep snow, the tires are awful and the battery in it was absolute garbage.
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Jan 6, 2019 00:42
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autism ZX spectrum posted:I've got a 2003 Dodge Caravan with a mysterious coolant leak. It's a new-to-me vehicle and I got it for cheap so I'm still ironing out the bugs. It stopped heating a few days ago, noticed the coolant was low. Marker lines on the reservoir tracking coolant levels from previous owner. Poured in coolant and topped up the rad, still no heat. Replaced the thermostat. Over the course of a few days with maybe 5 miles total put on the thing the coolant level in the reservoir is noticeably lower. Rad coolant seems to be at the same level it was a few days ago. There does not appear to be a relationship between oil and coolant levels, so it's probably not the head gasket. I can't see coolant dripping anywhere though. Can you park over fresh snow or a large sheet of cardboard, fill with coolant and run it to see if any leaks show up? I’m assuming you’d know if it was leaking in the cabin, or overheating and blowing off coolant like wild. You said the oil level is good but does the oil look good? Any smoke when running?
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Jan 6, 2019 00:50
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Hard to say with regards to smoke. It's cold out so there's vapour like a motherfucker. Definitely not blowing blue/black smoke and it doesn't smell like burnt or leaking coolant. I didn't see *any* drips in the snow or seepage around gaskets and hoses. Good call on the cardboard, I'll do that tomorrow. Last time I had a blown gasket it was pretty obvious, thermostat pegged and greasy smoke coming out of the vents. I think I might have to do a compression test to be sure unless I find something obvious.
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Jan 6, 2019 00:53
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Isn't there UV dye you can put in your coolant to track down leaks? You'd need a black light.
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Jan 6, 2019 00:53
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Did some googling and apparently it's super common for these vans to leak in a spot where the coolant only leaks under pressure and then immediately onto hot components so it doesn't drip. Going to have to double check the transmission fluid tomorrow because it could be leaking through the rad into the trans, apparently. Other than that there are a few suspects: coolant hose to overflow reservoir might be split a plastic T connector on the firewall might be split head gasket split towards outside, pissing coolant onto block Might have to invest in that dye and a black light, honestly.
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Jan 6, 2019 01:05
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autism ZX spectrum posted:Did some googling and apparently it's super common for these vans to leak in a spot where the coolant only leaks under pressure and then immediately onto hot components so it doesn't drip. Going to have to double check the transmission fluid tomorrow because it could be leaking through the rad into the trans, apparently. Other than that there are a few suspects: But wouldn’t that stink up the joint and also be a source of steam in the engine you could see? Operate the throttle by hand if you can to bump pressure.
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Jan 6, 2019 01:12
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You'd think so! Especially with the amount of coolant being lost.
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Jan 6, 2019 01:19
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foot posted:The female connector on my low beams shorted and melted, best way to replace? 2006 Honda CR-V 1) Salvage yard 2) eBay autism ZX spectrum posted:Hard to say with regards to smoke. It's cold out so there's vapour like a motherfucker. They're kind of hard to miss, so it sounds like, "no." PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jan 6, 2019 |
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Jan 6, 2019 02:45
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I just took my 2011 Cruze Eco with ~85k miles in because it was leaking oil a little. The guy at the shop said it'll need a new turbo eventually because the air intake is being over-pressured (if my memory serves correctly). Don't need to do it until I get relevant check engine lights and/or it drives funny. His estimate was $1500 (they've done a few before). Two questions: 1) Is that a reasonable estimate? I've been pretty happy with this shop so far, but that's a bigger chink of change than I've put down before. 2) Would it make any sense to skip the repair and sell the car (profits going towards a down payment on a new one)?
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Jan 6, 2019 05:49
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It’s always a personal decision, but repairs are generally the less expensive route. I can’t speak for the quote, but getting a second opinion isn’t a bad idea.
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Jan 6, 2019 06:06
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PainterofCrap posted:1) Salvage yard Yeah it's definitely not pissing coolant out over the block like if a hose were very cracked. It's just, the car's been stationary over snow and I'm missing a gallon of coolant. Gonna jack it up today see if I missed any leaks but realistically it should be going somewhere. There should be drips of coolant all over parts of the motor. I'm honestly starting to think it's a cracked rad and my coolant is going into the trans. It would explain the weird stall I had and why the coolant is missing 
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Jan 6, 2019 14:31
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Sorry to double post, I think I solved it. I really didn't want to drain the trans or the oil today. I found a neat DIY solution for a ghetto leakdown test. I made something reasonably similar but used an old moped inner tube valve stem and skipped the washer.  It worked okay. It would hold pressure for about 30 seconds at a time before it would gradually drop. The seal at the cap wasn't perfect but I managed to see a whole bunch of coolant seeping under the intake manifold. It wasn't pooled like that when I began.  Apparently it's reasonably common for these to leak at the intake manifold. It's probably steadily seeping coolant, it would explain why the block is so filthy. I figured it was just an old lovely van with seeping valve covers, but looking at it now it's almost even a little too wet for just that.
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Jan 6, 2019 17:16
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The guy that designed the first iteration of plastic intake manifolds will probably burn in hell. Nailed everyone of the big 3 right?
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Jan 6, 2019 18:11
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Yep, until they stopped using intakes to move coolant.
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Jan 6, 2019 18:45
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Here's a stupid question: what's a cheap container I can use to make my own vacuum chamber to suck the ATF out of a dipstick (vehicle details don't matter but it's a Pentastar Wrangler). I had a plastic one and managed to get two quarts out when the flexing plastic finally cracked. I've got a vacuum pump that works surprisingly well (the cheap one from HF), but I need the container that'll actually catch the fluid. I don't really want to drop $$ on a jerry can.
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Jan 6, 2019 19:04
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SO I got all my tools together and put some layers on, fully intending to take the manifold off. Pressurizing the coolant system must have blown free the leak stop or rust or whatever because there was a HUGE puddle of coolant under the van when I got back out. There's a metal coolant line going from the bottom of the water pump running kind of parallel against the firewall before meeting up with a rubber hose. That entire line is just hosed with rust. I'm gonna have a shop replace it and then wait for spring to do the manifold gasket as that would be a $1500+ repair at the shop.
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Jan 6, 2019 19:43
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Godholio posted:Here's a stupid question: what's a cheap container I can use to make my own vacuum chamber to suck the ATF out of a dipstick (vehicle details don't matter but it's a Pentastar Wrangler). I had a plastic one and managed to get two quarts out when the flexing plastic finally cracked. I've got a vacuum pump that works surprisingly well (the cheap one from HF), but I need the container that'll actually catch the fluid. I don't really want to drop $$ on a jerry can. Most improvised vacuum reservoirs I've seen seem to involve PVC plumbing parts. Pipe and end caps with fittings drilled into the latter should work?
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Jan 6, 2019 19:55
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autism ZX spectrum posted:SO I got all my tools together and put some layers on, fully intending to take the manifold off. Pressurizing the coolant system must have blown free the leak stop or rust or whatever because there was a HUGE puddle of coolant under the van when I got back out. There's a metal coolant line going from the bottom of the water pump running kind of parallel against the firewall before meeting up with a rubber hose. That entire line is just hosed with rust. I'm gonna have a shop replace it and then wait for spring to do the manifold gasket as that would be a $1500+ repair at the shop. I did this on one of my cars and got several unexpected leaks that I fixed. I figure it found the weakest points and blew them now rather than on the road.
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Jan 6, 2019 20:08
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LF caliper on a 99 explorer is sticking and needs to be replaced, do both sides?
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Jan 6, 2019 21:06
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Godholio posted:Here's a stupid question: what's a cheap container I can use to make my own vacuum chamber to suck the ATF out of a dipstick (vehicle details don't matter but it's a Pentastar Wrangler). I had a plastic one and managed to get two quarts out when the flexing plastic finally cracked. I've got a vacuum pump that works surprisingly well (the cheap one from HF), but I need the container that'll actually catch the fluid. I don't really want to drop $$ on a jerry can. How cheap? Any round hard plastic cylinder is good, like a Nalgene bottle, or a garden sprayer. Looks like a garden sprayer is 
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Jan 6, 2019 21:24
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I’m essentially inheriting a 2004 LS430 with ~27,000 miles on it, but I gotta fly down then drive it from Phoenix>Denver>Omaha. Obviously the thing has barely been driven and I think the last time it was on the road was probably spring of 2018. Is there anything I can/should try to get checked before making the 1400 mile drive up? I know it’s been meticulously maintained but I figure sitting that long might not be great. Also interested in any route advice for the Phoenix to Denver leg as I’ve never been in that part of the country. Won’t have much time to sightsee but it’d be nice to drive through some interesting scenery if it’s not a pain.
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Jan 6, 2019 23:12
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New tires if they're original, new fluids and some seafoam in the gas tank probably wouldn't hurt.
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Jan 7, 2019 00:28
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Cage posted:LF caliper on a 99 explorer is sticking and needs to be replaced, do both sides? How rusty is the rest of the vehicle? Will attempting to remove the hoses cause the lines to snap? I have done just one on beater cars before and made out ok.
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Jan 7, 2019 00:44
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powderific posted:Also interested in any route advice for the Phoenix to Denver leg as I’ve never been in that part of the country. Won’t have much time to sightsee but it’d be nice to drive through some interesting scenery if it’s not a pain. To us down in Phoenix, seeing the scenery change as you go up the Beeline from Scottsdale to Payson is pretty neat, but if trees are normal for you then there isn't much to see. If you want to spend more time to go from Phoenix / Wickenberg / Yarnell / Prescott / Jerome / Sedona / Flagstaff and over, there is a lot of cool poo poo to see on that route and there are a few fun sections of road.
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Jan 7, 2019 01:14
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2007 Nissan Sentra, CVT, no aftermarket components, 105k on it, normally driven near sea level. I haven't yet had the 105 maintenance done on it yet, because I'm hoping to get a bit of direction on some of the most likely causes of what I think is a fuel-air mixture problem. When I bring the car up from cold start on a flat surface (like 3+ hours minimum, longer and the symptoms are more pronounced), the tach kind of flutters around as the engine is warming up. At steady state, it rests at 800, but it will bounce between about 800 and 1400 about twice per second, then it's like it "catches" what it should do, gently moves up to about 2000, then slowly decelerates from there. When I put it in reverse, the throttle kind of groans and the car doesn't move as fast as it used to. If I don't have to reverse, just go straight into drive, the throttle doesn't groan. Now, here's the strange/confounding conditions. The engine will heavily struggle with that fluttering tach if the car is parked on a decline (basically anything more than 2%), or if it's tilted a few degrees to the passenger side. Parked incline, driver side tilt, all behaves like it does on a flat surface. When I say it struggles, I mean the tach will be between like 400 and 700 except it's like 5 times per second, the car noticeably shakes, and if it starts dipping below 400 too much, the console gets dim, shaking intensifies, and it's very likely to die entirely at this point. A couple times I tried to "help" it stay at higher RPM by gently applying a small amount of throttle, but that seems to make things worse, instead of taking maybe 10 seconds to die, it dies within 2-3 seconds of doing that. The only time that the check engine light illuminates is when the car dies. It's been a couple weeks since it fully died, it's possible that it flashes briefly when the console dims, I don't remember for sure. Maybe related, maybe not, is that once the car has been running for a long time, like let's say an hour of highway driving, if I'm then idling in park, it sits at 800 like it should for about a minute, maybe a bit longer. Then, over the course of about 5 seconds, it dips down to 700, then does that "catching" thing and revs back up to 2000 like it does at start, and then backs off to 800. This one is fairly predictable but the car has never died (or even come close, like with the console dimming) as a result. From reading online, it sounds like it could be 10 different things in the fuel system, or 10 different things in the airflow system, but I can't find much of anything that matches the vehicle tilt being a factor, or what the most likely problems are from that basket of 20 potential areas.
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Jan 7, 2019 01:34
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