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https://www.costco.com/Golden-Arowana-Cappuccino-HDPC-Waterproof-Plank-Flooring-.product.100472482.html Anyone have any opinions on this product or similar? Looks like it’s going on sale next month.
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Dec 27, 2018 19:11
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TheManWithNoName posted:https://www.costco.com/Golden-Arowana-Cappuccino-HDPC-Waterproof-Plank-Flooring-.product.100472482.html I have the Golden Arowana bamboo floor. I ordered the matching molding from their site (https://goldenarowanaflooring.com/) and I remember it taking 2-3 weeks to come. I wish I ordered 2 more sticks of molding: one because I didn't plan right and another because I made a mistake. I did about 750sqft.
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Dec 27, 2018 19:34
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What are some of your favorite ways of dealing with hard water? Inside of my shower looks like dried milk sometimes.
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Dec 27, 2018 19:47
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Kritzkrieg Kop posted:What are some of your favorite ways of dealing with hard water? Inside of my shower looks like dried milk sometimes. Install a good quality water softener
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Dec 27, 2018 20:06
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Droo posted:Install a good quality water softener This is the correct answer. Anything else is just dealing with symptoms that you can see (staining) and not what it's doing to your water heater, pipes and faucets.
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Dec 27, 2018 20:10
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Grumpwagon posted:Someone in this thread had a recommended toilet (Motronic?) but I can't find the post. Mind reposting it please? I think there was thread discussion on the American Standard Champion Mark 4, that's what I put in when we moved, they've been great. Haven't managed to cause a problem in six months. Well, the problem I had was one old toilet had a four foot hair snake when we lifted the old toilet off. That was pretty bad. Edit: autocorrect, drat you Alarbus fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Dec 28, 2018 |
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Dec 28, 2018 04:39
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I will stan for Kohler Aquapiston models. I have an Archer and one of the small form factor ones, I forget the name. I take A Heavy Deuce and I have had zero clogs in six years.
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Dec 28, 2018 04:59
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Thanks for the suggestions (and I found the original post, it was for the American Standard Champion 4 Max Tall). After spending more time than is healthy looking at toilets today, I apparently want the unicorn of toilets. Round, standard height, but not the bargain basement parts and flush that those choices seem to imply. If I wanted a $50 toilet with those options, I'd be spoiled for choice, but decent parts apparently mandate tall elongated toilets. As long as I'm dreaming, it being available at Menard's where I have a gift card, would be icing. Grumpwagon fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Dec 28, 2018 |
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Dec 28, 2018 05:24
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I just dropped a few hundo on a closetmaid garage organization setup. I am unreasonably excited about it coming in and installing it. My garage is going to be SO ORGANIZED. Just need to install some more studs in the wall to give me 16" spacing for it instead of the current 24" before it arrives.
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Dec 29, 2018 05:38
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SpartanIvy posted:I just dropped a few hundo on a closetmaid garage organization setup. I am unreasonably excited about it coming in and installing it. My garage is going to be SO ORGANIZED. You could also surface mount 1x4s or plywood the walls to give you unlimited mounting options. Much faster than tearing down and rebuilding a wall at the loss of 1/2”.
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Dec 29, 2018 17:02
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Started looking into some sort of wireless interconnected smoke/CO2 alarms since my house was built in the 80's and just has a bunch of stand alone units. I'd really rather not have to run wiring all over the house, so I was looking at these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-B...27448/205133645 but they're ionization-type detection only. First Alert offers a similar product, but they're photoelectric sensor only. Are either of these a reliable option? Just get this three pack and put them outside bedrooms/in garage/in basement near furnace, and still have photo/ion stand-alone sensor(s) elsewhere in the house?
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Dec 30, 2018 04:24
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brugroffil posted:Started looking into some sort of wireless interconnected smoke/CO2 alarms since my house was built in the 80's and just has a bunch of stand alone units. I'd really rather not have to run wiring all over the house, so I was looking at these: I recently replaced mine and I wasn't able to find an alarm that did both kinds of fire AND carbon monoxide - it seemed like only combinations of up to 2 types were available. I ended up buying combination Ionization/CO smoke alarms for my hardwired house and adding a wireless PV smoke alarm on each floor connected to my home security system to get full coverage. If you are just installing battery operated ones in the first place you can just buy a couple different styles to achieve the same thing. One thing I learned during the process is that typical CO alarms have a hilariously high threshold for CO before they start going off - something like 100 PPM where adverse health effects can start occurring after prolonged exposure to 10ppm. You can buy a more sensitive alarm but it will cost about $150.
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Dec 30, 2018 05:56
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I'm looking to have a vapor barrier installed in my crawl space. Anything I need to be aware of when getting quotes from companies?
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Dec 30, 2018 23:25
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Dumb question: how does one identify a good resource in their local township for a particular service? Let's say I need blinds in my house, how do I find the best company to provide this? Just Google reviews? Angie's list? My neighbors?
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Dec 31, 2018 04:18
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I was on a Facebook group for my town called "What's Happening in (town name)". There were a lot of home improvement companies and associated recommendations I could search through to find what I needed. Or use the Nextdoor app and ask for a referral.
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Dec 31, 2018 04:27
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Referrals are always best, especially if you can see a couple examples of the work itself if it’s someone you know. If you’re more desperate your local papers probably give awards, not that that’s an indication of anything other than the company probably not being a sham. If you’re even more desperate you can ask on Nextdoor.
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Dec 31, 2018 04:38
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I found the guy who does everything related to my yard (including chopping up the 75' tree that just destroyed my fence) by walking around my neighborhood and seeing his crew work on a house that had a really nice yard.
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Dec 31, 2018 04:44
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I just finished remodeling about 400 sq feet of my basement into a family room and now it's the warmest part of the house since it was insulated properly. Now I want to rip all my walls down and re-insulate the whole house. It's like 75 degrees down here while everywhere else is between 70 - 66
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Dec 31, 2018 16:23
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Sepist posted:I just finished remodeling about 400 sq feet of my basement into a family room and now it's the warmest part of the house since it was insulated properly. Now I want to rip all my walls down and re-insulate the whole house. It's like 75 degrees down here while everywhere else is between 70 - 66 Is there a stud cavity? Blown in insulation is a godsend. Takes literally half a day for a crew to do it, or probably 2 days and a case of beer for you and your buddies. (One day is you getting the rental and materials to your house.)
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Dec 31, 2018 16:27
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We're in the process of getting some blown insulation in; you should look to see whether your city or state offers any incentives for it - ours offers a rebate up of 75% of the cost of insulation and weatherization improvements, which is amazing and there's no reason not to do it.
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Dec 31, 2018 16:37
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H110Hawk posted:Is there a stud cavity? Blown in insulation is a godsend. Takes literally half a day for a crew to do it, or probably 2 days and a case of beer for you and your buddies. (One day is you getting the rental and materials to your house.) Yea its studs. I'll have to look into this and see if there are any incentives.
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Dec 31, 2018 16:47
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Sepist posted:Yea its studs. I'll have to look into this and see if there are any incentives. It was a night and day difference in our comfort level. The house doesn't swing with the outside temperature nearly as much or as quickly. After incentives in California it was a few grand. Best money I've ever spent.
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Dec 31, 2018 17:32
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Kritzkrieg Kop posted:What are some of your favorite ways of dealing with hard water? Inside of my shower looks like dried milk sometimes. Late, but if you want to just attack the symptoms. Bar Keepers Friend works. Make a paste or buy the paste, leave on for 15 minutes and get to scrubbing. You need an acidic cleaner to cut through the base of soap + minerals.
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Jan 2, 2019 21:26
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Motronic posted:Your lawyer doesn't need to know anything about floor joists. Their job it to assemble the correct people to correct evidence and opinions so you can be made whole through civil proceedings or the threats thereof. That sounds like spending thousands of lawyer dollars when I don’t 100% for sure know I’ve got a problem. I do know 100% one of my neighbors has a problem, unless they somehow already noticed it and got it fixed, maybe I’ll start there. May also contact the other truss company I w already chatted with and see what they think.
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Jan 2, 2019 23:56
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Manwich posted:Late, but if you want to just attack the symptoms. Bar Keepers Friend works. Make a paste or buy the paste, leave on for 15 minutes and get to scrubbing. You need an acidic cleaner to cut through the base of soap + minerals. I keep a spray bottle of vinegar water in the shower and a scrub brush and spray the bathtub down every couple of showers and scrub it real quick before I get out of the shower. vinegar rules for cleaning.
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Jan 3, 2019 01:04
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bird with big dick posted:That sounds like spending thousands of lawyer dollars when I don’t 100% for sure know I’ve got a problem. It's been a while, but didn't you say the floor was soft/bouncy there?
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Jan 3, 2019 03:25
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It’s impossible to say for certain whether it’s unusual or excessive bounce/deflection. I think there might be but I’m also biased/paranoid at this point. Also one of the areas of concern is under tile which makes it totally impossible to tell I would say.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:14
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bird with big dick posted:It’s impossible to say for certain whether it’s unusual or excessive bounce/deflection. I think there might be but I’m also biased/paranoid at this point. So literally any decent contractor can walk across the floor/jump up and down and know what it's supposed to feel like to give you an idea of whether this is normal for those trusses or excessive. Potentially by walking into another unit with the same trusses properly oriented in a similar state of finish. From there deflection tests may be warranted, which are little more than a line level across the floor and weights places in various places and using a tape measure to check deflection. You need to decide if this is a problem or not. You need to decide if your lawyer is the right one or not. Or just let it go.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:35
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There's people coming to fix the one that I know is wrong, so I'm going to interrogate them some more. I also bought an endoscope type camera, gonna try and snake it in from the unfinished area and/or see if I can see anything through can light receptacles. If those don't work, a few 3/8" holes may be drilled in the sheetrock. The problem with the camera is going to be insulation being in the way and the camera will have to be in almost the exact right spot to really be able to tell whether it's upside down, but for $35 I figure it's worth a try and if it doesn't pan out I can use it for amateur colonoscopies.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:37
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Motronic posted:So literally any decent contractor can walk across the floor/jump up and down and know what it's supposed to feel like to give you an idea of whether this is normal for those trusses or excessive. Potentially by walking into another unit with the same trusses properly oriented in a similar state of finish. Under tile? I don't think so. And it's going to depend on the length of the truss. And in another unit you don't know for certain theirs are correct either so "the same" doesn't mean "correct."
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Jan 3, 2019 15:41
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You seem helpless to take advice, hire advice or figure this out on your own. I suggest giving up.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:46
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Hiring a contractor to look at it is probably a good next step if I can't confirm it on my own, I just know that you're wrong in terms of any good one being able to easily figure it out just by walking on it.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:48
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Yes, surely I am wrong about this very simple comparative test that can be followed up with "things you can carry up from your truck in one hand."
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Jan 3, 2019 16:20
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What if there’s only one that’s upside down and it’s the one that’s under the kitchen cabinets? I think I’ll tear out the drywall, it’s the only way to know for sure so I’ll end up there eventually, might as well cut out the intermediaries.
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Jan 3, 2019 17:11
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bird with big dick posted:What if there’s only one that’s upside down and it’s the one that’s under the kitchen cabinets? You're stringing in pertinent information as you go along. In this case the deflection is measured from below. And whatever you have going on where you think you need to tear up drywall is either wrong, or yet more information you've left out.
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Jan 3, 2019 17:46
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I'm getting a strong "I'll just chop off the top of these I-beams so that my bathtub can be a little lower, no need to ask a professional" vibe from these posts
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Jan 3, 2019 21:43
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QuarkJets posted:I'm getting a strong "I'll just chop off the top of these I-beams so that my bathtub can be a little lower, no need to ask a professional" vibe from these posts I long to be involved with an all-timer like that from the outset.
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Jan 3, 2019 22:31
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Anyone have any suggestions on drilling holes from the top of my house to the bottom? I have a couple weeks off between jobs, so I'm planning on finally running a few long-overdue Ethernet cables along my house. I have a 3/4" drill bit with flex/extension attachments, but it's clearly not long enough to go from my attic to the crawl space. What is the best strategy here? I've finally identified an interior wall that appears to go all the way from the attic to the crawl space. This would span 2 floors, so would I want to cut an "access" hole in the drywall on each floor and then cover it up later with a blank wall plate? Or do I want to try to find a REALLY long extension attachment and go straight from the attic to the crawl space? My basic plan is to use the upstairs laundry room as my primary IT closet. I can splice in to the cable/phone lines in the crawl space, so my plan is to run those up to the attic then back down in to the laundry room, where I'll keep the modem and router. Then I'll run Ethernet BACK down to the crawl space so I can get it to where the TV is. I'm not keeping this all downstairs because I have an office upstairs, and the TV will move up there eventually. On top of that, I'd like to eventually run an antenna cable down so I can have an antenna in the attic (roof?) and run it to the TV downstairs. Once this attic-to-crawl space backbone is created, dropping something to any room should be dead simple from either the attic or the crawl space, but this is the biggest hurdle to getting things wired up.
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Jan 3, 2019 23:27
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I think a hole in sheetrock to drill a hole is necessary unless you can find an existing cavity. Perhaps follow HVAC or plumbing fixtures?
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Jan 3, 2019 23:37
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SpartanIvy posted:I think a hole in sheetrock to drill a hole is necessary unless you can find an existing cavity. Perhaps follow HVAC or plumbing fixtures? I've been casually searching for an easy way for a while, and nothing has come up yet except for this one wall. It basically borders the staircase, so it's probably my best candidate. I mean, I guess there are 2 walls that border the stairs, but the other one is adjacent to the downstairs HVAC return, so it'll be a challenge to find a good spot to drill through. The downstairs floor plan is very different from the upstairs, so there really aren't many common interior walls between floors. The HVAC system is dual zone, so there's no interconnection between floors. As far as a wet wall, there is no such thing that I can readily identify. Haven't looked very hard, but the bathrooms/etc are in such different spots between floors that there isn't an obvious place for all the piping to run through.
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Jan 4, 2019 00:06
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