|
Or you could do a V6 swap 
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 21:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 17:25 |
|
|
NO V6 SWAPS NO TURBOS
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 23:04
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:NO V6 SWAPS NO TURBOS LS4 
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 23:06
|
|
|
Raluek posted:LS4 ...MAYBE
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 23:08
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:NO V6 SWAPS NO TURBOS NO BALLS.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 23:11
|
|
|
...what about a supercharger
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 00:03
|
|
|
Drop the head from a gen. 2 3SGE on it and make a 5SGE. And then stick ITBs on it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 00:16
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:...MAYBE Do eeeeeet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 03:53
|
|
|
Lurkers: What are your tried and true methods of cleaning parts on the cheap? Bolts, plastic covers, metal brackets, electrical looms. Gimme your secrets!
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 04:09
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:Lurkers: What are your tried and true methods of cleaning parts on the cheap? Bolts, plastic covers, metal brackets, electrical looms. Gimme your secrets! Bolts & metal brackets: overnight gasoline soak + wire brush bench grinder wheel (will obviously trash painted brackets). If they're rusty you should just set up an electrolysis tank. Plastic covers: 1/5 mix of simple green/water in an old windex bottle No idea on the electrical looms, never cleaned one before. The simple green mix would prolly work okay.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 04:15
|
|
|
Simple green is remarkably effective for something that probably isn't dissolving your kidneys.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 04:22
|
|
|
Anything metal usually gets hit with brake parts cleaner. It goes on sale (like 2 for 1, BOGO) pretty often around here that we just stock up. I bought a case like a year or two ago and still haven't worked through all of it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 04:38
|
|
|
As far as the wiring harnesses go, pretty much the only way to clean em up properly is to remove the old loom and tape and redo it all from scratch. That was part of my job at the Rover/Jag shop and it was tedious as hell but soooo worth it when it came time to reassemble.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 05:14
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:Lurkers: What are your tried and true methods of cleaning parts on the cheap? Bolts, plastic covers, metal brackets, electrical looms. Gimme your secrets! I bought an ultrasonic cleaner on ebay forever ago. It worked amazing on jewlery, carbs, dildos, coke bottles, and pmuch anything that could get wet. If it was rusty, then either electrolysis (if it wasn't chrome) or acid (vinegar, molasses, phosporic, muriatic). Also, I liked to use simple green in the ultrasonic cleaner. Some people swore by pine sol though... GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Dec 31, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 05:20
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:Lurkers: What are your tried and true methods of cleaning parts on the cheap? Bolts, plastic covers, metal brackets, electrical looms. Gimme your secrets! Those weird magic eraser things and good ole dawn do pretty well at getting the really fine things like bolt threads. Cutting compound does pretty well at getting rid of thin surface rust without taking excessive amounts of metal away. Unwrap your loom and take your favorite goop remover to it, then re wrap it. All I got, boss
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 05:49
|
|
|
plastics, wiring, normal amounts of grime: hot water, simple green, dish soap Filthy dirty: diesel(or sometimes stale gas) and a wire brush.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 08:11
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:MR2 TIME! Remind me what all you're planning with this again? As for cleaning, everybody already said Simple Green. I don't have anything fancy so it's usually just that and a lot of rags. That engine looks pretty gunked up externally so maybe some engine degreaser wouldn't hurt as well. IOwnCalculus posted:Simple green is remarkably effective for something that probably isn't dissolving your kidneys.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 12:43
|
|
|
Anyone suggested a TDI swap yet? Am I needed here?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 15:39
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:Lurkers: What are your tried and true methods of cleaning parts on the cheap? Bolts, plastic covers, metal brackets, electrical looms. Gimme your secrets!
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 16:39
|
|
|
A jewelry sized ultrasonic cleaner is surprisingly cheap.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 16:52
|
|
|
Thanks yall. Picking up some Simple Green today and looking into ultrasonic cleaners! I've been using the old rear end solution in the small parts cleaner I have so far. I'm cleaning every bolt and surface on this thing, which is a new level of detail for me compared to my normal slap poo poo together and away she goes routine. Suburban Dad posted:Remind me what all you're planning with this again? Replacing all the engine gaskets, piston rings, vacuum lines, a bunch of accessories and pumps and all... just a refresh all around. I have zero play in the rod bearings, btw. When I do the piston rings I'm gonna plastigage them and see if they need replacement. It's surprising how tight the lower end bearings are at 204k on it. Theres more audience participation - if I get in there and the rod bearings look fine and plastigage fine, should they still be replaced with 204k on them? Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Dec 31, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 17:28
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:plastics, wiring, normal amounts of grime: hot water, simple green, dish soap This. Diesel or kerosene in a spray bottle and a wire brush. WD40 or kerosene and scotchbrite if its rusty.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 17:29
|
|
|
If you have a grinder get wire wheels for it. Mine is my favorite thing but warning it will add HOURS to every project. So worth it though. I think it took me like 2 hours to do the oil pan on my outback last time because I had to clean all 20 or whatever bolts that hold it in. Seconding ultrasonic cleaner. I got one off Amazon I think for like 80 bucks and I find reasons to use it, it's magical and great. I put diesel in it, I'll have to try the simple green, see how it does.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 17:48
|
|
|
shy boy from chess club posted:If you have a grinder get wire wheels for it. Mine is my favorite thing but warning it will add HOURS to every project. So worth it though. I think it took me like 2 hours to do the oil pan on my outback last time because I had to clean all 20 or whatever bolts that hold it in. Note on the wire wheel: you will find wires stuck in your clothes, in your skin, and all over the god drat garage for loving MONTHS if not years after the fact.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 19:57
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Note on the wire wheel: you will find wires stuck in your clothes, in your skin, and all over the god drat garage for loving MONTHS if not years after the fact. Also, wear safety glasses or a full-on face shield so that list doesn't have your eyes on it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 20:59
|
|
|
shy boy from chess club posted:If you have a grinder get wire wheels for it. Mine is my favorite thing but warning it will add HOURS to every project. So worth it though. I think it took me like 2 hours to do the oil pan on my outback last time because I had to clean all 20 or whatever bolts that hold it in. Seconding wire wheeling all the things, it takes way too long but it is also way too satisfying
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 21:34
|
|
|
stevobob posted:Seconding wire wheeling all the things, it takes way too long but it is also way too satisfying  But also: 5SGE with ITBs 5SGE with ITBs 5SGE with ITBs Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Dec 31, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 21:42
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Note on the wire wheel: you will find wires stuck in your clothes, in your skin, and all over the god drat garage for loving MONTHS if not years after the fact. Oh my god yes the amount and how far they go into skin is crazy. I can't imagine how bad it would be to take one to the eye. I keep a face shield right next to it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 21:55
|
|
|
Nobody mentioned but it is written on the bottle IIRC that simple green shouldn't be used on aluminium. Not that there's any on that engine but something to keep in mind.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 22:34
|
|
|
Terrible Robot posted:
I wanna hear it sing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 23:18
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:Nobody mentioned but it is written on the bottle IIRC that simple green shouldn't be used on aluminium. Not that there's any on that engine but something to keep in mind. Yea that and purple power in case anyone didn't know that one is bad for aluminum also.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2019 04:13
|
|
|
shy boy from chess club posted:Oh my god yes the amount and how far they go into skin is crazy. I can't imagine how bad it would be to take one to the eye. I keep a face shield right next to it. It’s worse when it grabs that little M6 bolt and fires it across the workshop at roughly the velocity of a .22 round never to be seen again
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2019 05:01
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:It’s worse when it grabs that little M6 bolt and fires it across the workshop at roughly the velocity of a .22 round never to be seen again I used to work for a NASA contractor that built the life support system for the space suit and that happened to a part I was working on. A tiny impeller that went into the fan/pump/seperator that was probably about the size of an M6. Part at that point was probably worth near 5 thousand bucks at that stage of the build and was never found. It was the guy on the assembly floor that did it, not me, but my job was keeping the trace paperwork for parts and it sucked trying to figure out a way to explain to the government how we lost a part with a lead time of almost a year.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2019 05:30
|
|
|
Moved operations inside, because why the gently caress not: Took the pistons out, mostly to change the piston rings but also to inspect the rod bearings. Mind you this little engine has 204k miles on it... I cannot believe how good of shape it's in internally. Check out this crosshatching:  Anywho, here's cylinder 1. Rod bearing has some slight coating wear, from heat probably? Crank journal and cylinder bore look spectacular.     Cylinder 2 has some of the same coat wear, and a slight gouge I can't pick with my fingernail. It also has some weird brown discoloration on the cylinder bore. Anyone know what that's from? Crank journal again looks spectacular.     Cylinder 3 has probably the worst wear, with some gouging, but still nothing I can pick with my finger. The flash really brings out the imperfections. Crank journal and cylinder bore again look perfect.     Cylinder 4 again has some slight coating wear. Crank journal and cylinder bore both look great.     Went out and bought some simple green and a plastic organizer. Left it here for the night:  Rod bearings: Replace em? Is it worth going through the whole sizing and plastigauging to get possibly inferior-sized bearings installed? Main bearings: Should I even inspect them at this point? The rod bearings looks awesome for 204k, and they're usually the first to starve. Planning on simple greening everything while I wait for the special snowflake spring compressor and the piston rings. Weirdly enough it's pretty nice working on an engine at your dining room table.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2019 07:43
|
|
|
You have it out, might as well swap stuff out. Also, lucas assembly lube has a weirdly minty scent. I recommend using it liberally
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2019 07:50
|
|
|
This will probably never be important, but just in case it is; simple green is an effective acrylic paint stripper. That means do not get it on anything acrylic or painted with acrylic. I also use it diluted 10:1 as windshield wiper fluid... it gets bugs off the glass really well and doesn't seem to affect rain-x.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2019 10:19
|
|
|
Yea definitely replace the bearings while you have it apart. It'll last another 200k easy with bearings and rings. How's the crank surface on 3? That bearing didn't look great but at least it isn't down to the copper. I built a VR6 using plasticgauge that held together running 23lbs if boost so it'll be fine using it. With new rings just pay close attention to the gap. It's easy to do and super important. If you have or can borrow a bore gauge I'd give those a measure just to make sure there's no ovaling and even wear top to bottom. Should be good with all that crosshatch still there but doesn't hurt to give it a looksee.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2019 16:53
|
|
|
Yeah you're all right I should replace em. I have this weird aversion to touching lower end bearings ever since the S2000 but I'll do my due diligence in researching. #3 crank journal looked fine last night but I'll give it a better look tonight and post more pictures.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 00:25
|
|
|
My 350k km old Toyota diesel had ovalled bores that were bad enough to need boring but couldn’t feel it or really see it. Take the block to a machine shop and get them to hot tank the castings and get the bores measured and the deck skimmed
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 00:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 17:25 |
|
|
Ferremit posted:My 350k km old Toyota diesel had ovalled bores that were bad enough to need boring but couldn’t feel it or really see it. Take the block to a machine shop and get them to hot tank the castings and get the bores measured and the deck skimmed Or, since you already have it apart, you can just measure them yourself. Get some bore gauges (if that's what they're called? the things that look like a T. My shop teacher called them snap gauges but the internet disagrees) and measure the bores at the top, middle, and bottom going both horizontally and vertically. It's not hard, just takes a little bit of time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 01:13
|
|