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I bought one of these kits and a few other extra pieces but at having second thoughts. It looks thin and feels a little cheap. Is this stuff ok? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Garbage-Disposal-Install-Kit-C9104/205154335?MERCH=REC-_-rv_mobileweb_rr-_-205154335-_-205154335-_-N
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Dec 15, 2018 22:45
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Bigass Moth posted:I bought one of these kits and a few other extra pieces but at having second thoughts. It looks thin and feels a little cheap. Is this stuff ok? You trying to start a fight? A lot of plumbers with a hard on for cutting and gluing tiny bits of pipe together to make a trap and drain don't like those. They're fine to use though. Just make sure that the washers aren't broken and the nuts are all tight. You might not even need the sideways pieces on the left if the waste tee can line up with the trap. You might need a slip extension though if your wall drain is too low or your sink is too high. Those slip extensions are only for vertical use. They also make extensions for horizontal use, but they need to be glued on. Lastly, if things don't line up, they do make pipes with accordion sections. I don't like to use those though as they have little pockets inside that can catch food and stink. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Dec 15, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 23:32
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Motronic posted:I'm assuming this Kohler is new enough to have a cartridge..... I have super hard water. I called Kohler with the same problem and they sent me a new cartridge. It’s a known problem and they have a new cartridge they released last week that addresses the issue.
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Dec 16, 2018 18:35
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Boner Wad posted:I have super hard water. I called Kohler with the same problem and they sent me a new cartridge. It’s a known problem and they have a new cartridge they released last week that addresses the issue. Ohhhhhh, nice.....thank you! I have pretty hard water and a softener, but I've only been in this place for a few months so I don't know how long the softener has been here or how well it was maintained. Last WEEK? That's some timely poo poo. Sometimes procrastination does pay off.
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Dec 16, 2018 23:45
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BubbaGrace posted:If your T&P is popping like that you have a problem. The only reason that thing would trip like that is thermal expansion. At this point I would call a plumber. Without being there I can't give you any more answers and sleep at night. Bigass Moth posted:Imgur album: I guess what I'm saying is that if you identify who installed that, you have every right to put their entire body through the disposal and the only reason you shouldn't because it will clog the drain. GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 00:44
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Bigass Moth posted:Imgur album: Thanks to all, especially kid sinister, for the advice. https://imgur.com/a/2chYZAf Better?   It went fairly smoothly (only one trip to Home Depot during the work required). The old pipes were so crammed full of the most disgusting brown slime I have ever seen or smelled, and that includes the hundreds of baby diapers I've changed in the last few years. The old disposal was 100% brown rust on the inside. The top picture looks weird at the wall - I have a 45 degree bend piece in there before the final straight run. There are a few things I would have liked to do differently, but my combination of deep sinks and high wall inlet kind of forced my hand. Will I run into any issues if I spray foam insulate the hole at the inlet? It's cut way above size and it has a draft. Bigass Moth fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 22:04
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Bigass Moth posted:Thanks to all, especially kid sinister, for the advice. That's because the slope was wrong and the food waste couldn't drain. Getting lovely water out of your house ASAP is always for the best. Spray foam around wall shouldn't hurt anything. Just try and keep it off the threads. A drop or two on them shouldn't be too hard to clean off later if need be. How about the electric? The cord, plug and switch/outlet look great, but what about the wiring feeding that box? That picture is awfully dark. Is that a kink in the dishwasher drain hose right at the disposal? You might want to loop the drain hose up high and make an air gap for the dishwasher drain. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Dec 18, 2018 |
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Dec 18, 2018 06:06
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Amazingly, the electric throughout the house was done fairly well. I had an electrician over when we re-did the basement and he fixed some obvious problems (so unless the straight runs up through the walls are bad I believe it's ok). The dishwasher hose was sagging in the middle where it connects to the disposal, so ironically I straightened it with a zip tie. Would you recommend something like a (loose) hose clamp instead? There was just no better way to run this setup so I did what I could. What do you mean by air gap?
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Dec 18, 2018 14:34
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Bigass Moth posted:Amazingly, the electric throughout the house was done fairly well. I had an electrician over when we re-did the basement and he fixed some obvious problems (so unless the straight runs up through the walls are bad I believe it's ok). I don't know if they are sold as a standalone part but mine came with a plastic hose hanger bracket thinger that did all the routing for you. From the looks of your before pictures the previous owner certainly threw that away.
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Dec 18, 2018 16:32
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H110Hawk posted:I don't know if they are sold as a standalone part but mine came with a plastic hose hanger bracket thinger that did all the routing for you. From the looks of your before pictures the previous owner certainly threw that away. I know exactly what you’re talking about and I think I have one left over from a washing machine. Thanks!
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Dec 18, 2018 16:58
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Bigass Moth posted:What do you mean by air gap? Basically, an air gap keeps a backed up disposal from backing up into the dishwasher instead. They make parts for this that fit through an unused sprayer hole in the sink, but you can make one yourself by bending or looping the drain hose up high behind the sink, then tying it up there with a zip tie or something.
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Dec 18, 2018 17:56
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pony heater and circulator pump question time 9 years old, and i have a pinhole leak in copper before pump  Better to go ahead and replace pump & pony tank or just try to solder pinhole? (I'm going for pinhole repair, going to be hard to find pump on short notice it seems.) real question, am I going to be out of luck trying to sweat a new pump on here? I only have straight propane, i have MAP/Pro but I am out of oxygen. some_admin fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Dec 18, 2018 |
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Dec 18, 2018 18:04
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some_admin posted:pony heater and circulator pump question time
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Dec 18, 2018 21:03
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You're right, the pump actually seemed ok. I came up with a better plan though. In my HOA the houses have all, one by one, had their pony tanks fail & or circulator pump also fail. The only thing this was accomplishing was burning up electricity and letting you have 30 seconds of lukewarm water before you got hot water. $30 of fittings and two trips to hardware later -  hot water now available, I don't see an appreciable difference in wait times really, but now there is no constant 60 watt pump running a 1500 watt tank warming up 60-70 feet of PEX in my walls year round. lol turns out one of the bronze elbows was crushed previously, I spent about 15 minutes trying to thread a nipple in it before I figured it out. Thanks previous plumber dude.
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Dec 18, 2018 21:28
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I think I'm seeing that heater completely bypassed now. Which means I have to ask why in the hell you piped it that way...... Just connect the two pieces of PEX together against the wall. Potentially further up than the floor - wherever you can get to them as far bac as possible before the split off in different directions.
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Dec 18, 2018 21:45
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It does look crap but extenuating circumstance- I think my wife might make me re-install it, so I left the original pieces. Just in case. If she’s all good with the water function, I’ll clean it up and get rid of the extra 12 elbows and galvanized etc. I’ve only made 5 PEX connections in my life, had two failures on the way (w/branded PEX tools) and the fittings themselves are pricey and single use. NPT I can deal with. Water heater is near EOL, pump not far behind. Amazon pump is $150, local plumbing supply wants $350! Dang. Glad the on demand water heater is saving all that money for me!
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Dec 18, 2018 22:57
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I have a threaded brass pipe coming out of the wall about 1 inch for the bathroom sink drain. The 1-1/4 p-trap nuts screw onto it so I'm guessing it is 1-1/4 as well. We bought a bigger vanity and the center of the sink no longer lines up with the waste pipe. I need to jog sideways after the P-trap by about 6 inches, but I did not see any 90 degree elbows in 1-1/4 at Home Depot. What do I need to buy since the P-trap alone doesn't reach? Am I going to have to use the glue-together fittings since the threaded ones don't seem to be stocked in 1-1/4"?
lwoodio fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Dec 21, 2018 |
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Dec 21, 2018 21:36
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lwoodio posted:I have a threaded brass pipe coming out of the wall about 1 inch for the bathroom sink drain. The 1-1/4 p-trap nuts screw onto it so I'm guessing it is 1-1/4 as well. We bought a bigger vanity and the center of the sink no longer lines up with the waste pipe. I need to jog sideways after the P-trap by about 6 inches, but I did not see any 90 degree elbows in 1-1/4 at Home Depot. What do I need to buy since the P-trap alone doesn't reach? Am I going to have to use the glue-together fittings since the threaded ones don't seem to be stocked in 1-1/4"? There's not a lot out there for 1-1/4" parts, but I got a couple of ideas. It's more of a commercial item for ADA compliance, but they do make right angle offset drains to make wall mount sinks wheelchair accessible. You couldn't have a pop up drain, but they do get the drain pipe over a few inches. It might be enough. There's a lot more stuff available in metal 1-1/4" drain fittings, but it's more expensive, harder to install and almost certainly special order. If height allows, you could use a pair of brass 1-1/4" waste elbows above the trap, then mount the trap over by wall where its arm will fit the wall drain. Make sure you get your slope right. Finally, you could just use a PVC 1-1/2" slip joint elbow, then use 1-1/4" adapter washers in it.
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Dec 21, 2018 23:49
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lwoodio posted:I have a threaded brass pipe coming out of the wall about 1 inch for the bathroom sink drain. The 1-1/4 p-trap nuts screw onto it so I'm guessing it is 1-1/4 as well. We bought a bigger vanity and the center of the sink no longer lines up with the waste pipe. I need to jog sideways after the P-trap by about 6 inches, but I did not see any 90 degree elbows in 1-1/4 at Home Depot. What do I need to buy since the P-trap alone doesn't reach? Am I going to have to use the glue-together fittings since the threaded ones don't seem to be stocked in 1-1/4"? Can you take a picture? What you probably will want to do is turn the trap completely perpendicular to the wall and use a tail piece extension long enough from wall to trap. You should be able to get 6" of swing from a 1 1/4" tubular trap. If this is not possible you still do not want a 90. They make a 45 degree offset extension which you can easily line up with a slip nut trap. BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Dec 22, 2018 |
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Dec 22, 2018 05:17
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True, you can get about six inches, but I'm guessing that the tailpiece centerline is a good 4"-6" off the wall, so now in addition to that, there's the lateral distance to cover. I also dislike using an elbow on a lateral that way, but under the circumstances and lacking an alternative, use one with the widest arc (a long-sweep 90, or as noted by BubbaGrace, a 45) to get you close. If possible, try to cheat in a little bit of drop between the trap and the wall. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Dec 22, 2018 |
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Dec 22, 2018 16:49
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My AHS plumber who is replacing my water heater is quoting me $400+ to put in a mixing valve. Awesome.
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Dec 22, 2018 19:11
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DkHelmet posted:My AHS plumber who is replacing my water heater is quoting me $400+ to put in a mixing valve. Awesome. Home warranties are scams and are only good for sellers buying 'piece of mind' for someone purchasing your house.
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Dec 22, 2018 19:35
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BubbaGrace posted:Can you take a picture? What you probably will want to do is turn the trap completely perpendicular to the wall and use a tail piece extension long enough from wall to trap. You should be able to get 6" of swing from a 1 1/4" tubular trap. If this is not possible you still do not want a 90. They make a 45 degree offset extension which you can easily line up with a slip nut trap. Here-  The p-trap will screw on to this adapter the Lowes guy showed me, but I can't get it to thread into the wall. Which doesn't make sense to me because the nuts that came with the p-trap will screw on to it, and it will screw onto the p-trap. 
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Dec 23, 2018 00:23
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some_admin posted:the fittings themselves are pricey and single use.
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Dec 26, 2018 20:30
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lwoodio posted:Here- I was hoping for a picture zoomed out a bit more to see exactly how much room you are working with there. As far as that adapter you do not need it. That piece coming out of the wall (called a Marvel in these parts) is made to accept trap/tail piece nuts already. Also just for laughs, you have that adapter on backwards. Lastly, never use plastic female threads. Good times, good times. BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Dec 26, 2018 |
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Dec 26, 2018 23:23
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Quote != EDIT
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Dec 26, 2018 23:30
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Any advice on getting a 60 year old bathtub drain flange out? It’s a 2” Kohler flange with two tabs on the inside of the flange instead of an X, which the internet tells me is rare and it doesn’t look like any removal tools are designed for an I.D. that big. It’s basically welded in there with ancient putty/pipe dope and hard water. Lucky me! The cast iron tub is being removed so I’m not worried about it messing it up. Should I just saw out the inside of the flange in a couple places and chip it out? If I’m getting the tub replaced I don’t need to worry about the threads inside the drain when I’m sawing away as that will be replaced, right?
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Jan 7, 2019 18:30
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stupid puma posted:The cast iron tub is being removed so I’m not worried about it messing it up. Should I just saw out the inside of the flange in a couple places and chip it out? If I’m getting the tub replaced I don’t need to worry about the threads inside the drain when I’m sawing away as that will be replaced, right? A tub drain is a separate part, typically not even included with the tub/shower faucet set. You shouldn't be re-using it. And since it's not being reused you probably should be breaking that tub up with a sledge, which will very quickly make removing the drain a non-issue. (throw some blankets over/around it and go to town)
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Jan 7, 2019 20:07
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That’s what I figured but I just wanted to confirm. I just started sledging apart the tub after the mounting frustration of not being able to remove the flange for 20 minutes. It was v cathartic to have a big metal thing to bash right in front of me that also happened to be the source of my anger. But the tub started coming out from the wall a bit and I was worried about the drain loving up the stack in some way. I don’t want to cost myself any more money in plumbing labor than absolutely necessary. But if I can just cut the flange out and not worry about the drain assembly then I’ll just take a sawzall to the flange and go to town for 3 minutes to disconnect it, no biggie.
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Jan 7, 2019 23:07
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stupid puma posted:Any advice on getting a 60 year old bathtub drain flange out? It’s a 2” Kohler flange with two tabs on the inside of the flange instead of an X, which the internet tells me is rare and it doesn’t look like any removal tools are designed for an I.D. that big. It’s basically welded in there with ancient putty/pipe dope and hard water. Lucky me! I used one of these bitches : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tub-Drain-Extractor-65255/205930888 When I had to get the drain out of my tub, and the cross hairs at the bottom were all busted. Motherfuckin had to order that poo poo online, from amazon because home deepot didn't carry it in canada.
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Jan 8, 2019 00:24
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Use a really hot hair dryer or heat gun to soften the putty. First one I ever did broke the cross and needed to be cut with a dremel, did two more later after heating and it made a big difference in ease of removal.
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Jan 8, 2019 18:25
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I hope these questions haven't been asked recently. I went back in the thread and didn't see anything related. I am buying a house at the end of January. The house is on well water and a septic. Our previous house was on sewer and had municipal water. How much money should we have set aside in case one of these systems fails and we need it repaired asap? How often do well pumps and septic systems need to be serviced? Are there any good guides out there? The last thing I am curious about is getting a whole house filtration system. Where do I even start researching this? We plan to live in this house forever (or close to it) so we want to do things right, but we don't want to spend a fortune on upgrades. I do know that one feature I am looking at is having a UV filter on it.
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Jan 8, 2019 21:43
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Alterian posted:I hope these questions haven't been asked recently. I went back in the thread and didn't see anything related. I am buying a house at the end of January. The house is on well water and a septic. Our previous house was on sewer and had municipal water. How much money should we have set aside in case one of these systems fails and we need it repaired asap? How often do well pumps and septic systems need to be serviced? Are there any good guides out there? You should have your septic pumped and inspected every 3-4 years. This will cost you $500 or so, depending on the size of the box. "How expensive" it will be to replace a system depends on the system itself. There are many methods of getting rid of the water past the septic box, from leech fields that can clog an need to be jetted out (from people putting things that float down the drain and having them float out of the septic box rather than settle), settling tanks which are usually pretty much fine but can certainly fail, or mounds/micromounds that very often have grinder pumps in them. A standard septic box/distribution box replacement around here will set you back $15-20k. A new mound will be in the same range. Boxes can fail (concrete rot) due to bad concrete, poo poo you're constantly putting down the drain, or even just the content of your well water. I just had a d-box replaced and they used a plastic one in it's place. Wells, providing the water table doesn't drop, are largely fine. But you may need treatment now or at some point in the future. We had someone drill a very deep well and it obviously did something to the shallower ones in my old neighborhood, because we started getting the nasty black iron bacteria that smells like rotten eggs. If your pressure tank goes bad you're looking at $500-1000, if your submersible pump goes bad maybe $1500-2000. If you need the well drilled deeper just hang.......nobody can even really quote you with accuracy because they typically charge by the foot and just need to keep going until the hit something with enough flow. Around here that puts a new well at around $20k. This all sounds really bad, but in reality I've probably spent about $15k total on all of those things over the course of the past couple of decades. If the stuff was installed properly and gets maintained it's largely problem free.
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Jan 8, 2019 22:20
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Alterian posted:I hope these questions haven't been asked recently. I went back in the thread and didn't see anything related. I am buying a house at the end of January. The house is on well water and a septic. Our previous house was on sewer and had municipal water. How much money should we have set aside in case one of these systems fails and we need it repaired asap? How often do well pumps and septic systems need to be serviced? Are there any good guides out there? Re: well stuff. Make a call or email to your local public health place, and get a water test kit for your water. The test kit should be free or maybe a few bucks, the test itself might cost a bit, but if you're drinking this water, and your wife/partner and kids, then its agood idea to test periodically. Even if the well is new, now is the time to start testing and keep testing. Keeping track of the results. Keeping track of the results now, you can notice any trends and changes that might be happening. Like more dissolved minerals or some poo poo, this may indicate something happening that might need attention in the future, not just for your health, but for maintenance of your well and plumbing system. Don't know where you're from, but while the regulations/laws may be different, much of the advice on this site is pretty universal. IE maintain well properly, don't dump poo poo down there etc.... http://wellaware.ca/
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Jan 8, 2019 22:52
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On septic: For your home purchase, hopefully you added an inspection contingency for the septic system to the sales contract. Ideally, you should get a full inspection before purchase. This includes sending a camera as far down the lines as they can and a hydraulic-load test where they flush a ton of water (400+gal) in a short amount of time and then check to see if the system can handle it. They'll also give you good info about approx age, tank material, and overall condition. Motronic covered most of the rest. You should check with the municipality where the house is located to see if the mandate a pumping frequncy. Around here, it's 3 years. Costs about $250 for a 1000 gal tank. I definitely think about what replacement would cost, but it's hard to say when that would be needed, so it's just a general 'emergency house problems' fund. It sounds like a downside, but in my area, public sewer is $900/year, so my $80/y septic cost ain't too bad. Not to mention that even in public sewer, the lateral to the street frequently is a source of unexpected costs as well.
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Jan 9, 2019 01:06
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Also well stuff, don't know where you live, but in any civilized jurisdiction, you should probably be given a well record of some sort. If the well is old, it may have been lost over time. No big deal, but you should contact your state/provincial authority and try to get a copy. Hell, ask the current owners if there is a copy available. I live in Ontario, so if you were here you'd contact the ministry of Environment. If you're in the U.S. it might be the state EPA, or maybe the Department of Natural Resources or something. The record at the very least should tell you how old the well is, how deep, probably the flow rate, pump depth etc. That'll be helpful to you if you have problems, you can give that poo poo to the service/repair guy. The more they know before they start the better. They typically charge by the hour.
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Jan 9, 2019 02:06
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I recently moved to a fairly old place (1930s?) and the water tastes/smells a bit different. Using one of those filter pitchers takes it away, but I'm still curious about what makes it noticeably different from the water in my previous place. What sort of test kits/services should I be looking for? I want to compare several samples against each other not just a "safe/not-safe" result like most of the things I see on Amazon.
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Jan 9, 2019 02:49
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Is it a municipal supply and have you switched municipalities? Most muni water authorities have their testing data available, so perhaps you could compare the old one to the new one if that's a difference. Otherwise, and possibly anyway, just get a water test kit and send it off.
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Jan 9, 2019 03:12
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E^^^^^^^^^ Good point, it could be something from the city supply if you're not on a well. Hopefully you don't live in Flint. TBH I'm not too sure, I know a bunch of stuff about water wells from reading trade publications, absorption from demonstrations/conversations at seminars and whatnot, but I don't drill water wells. At least, not the kind that are used for drinking water. Your local health department could probably test for......... Dissolved minerals or something that might be affecting the taste. If you're in the U.S. you could try the National Groundwater association and/or get in touch with your state GWA: https://www.ngwa.org/connect-with-your-state/Affiliate-Organization-Contact Canada, there is the Canadian Groundwater Association: https://www.groundwatercanada.com/ The national associations might not have what you need, but your state or provincial organizations could probably point you in the right direction. What does it taste like anyway? Crap? Sulfur?
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Jan 9, 2019 03:23
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Thanks for the responses. We are getting a VA home loan so the septic and well have been tested. The well came back as having coliform in the water. The test wasn't super specific, just "total coliform" detected. They are in the process of shocking it and retesting. I'm in NC and we just had two hurricanes and beat our yearly rainfall record so I don't know if that could of had an effect on it getting messed up? The visual inspection said the well was in good condition. There's already a family living there with two small kids so they started trying to fix it asap. We also have 2 small kids. I was planning on getting those large bottles of water for drinking until we can get a whole house filter on the house. I've been trying to research what kind would be good/what brands to go with, but its a very dense subject if you don't know anything about it.
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Jan 9, 2019 11:27
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