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That seems plenty low enough to me. Those louvers look nice, but are kind of pricey and just slapping them on the hood isn't going to get you the full benefits you could see by spending a little time with cardboard and sheet metal to fully duct your coolers. I would worry those hood vents are a little too far back on that car too. Once you get, like, halfway back up the hood the pressure difference between the engine bay and airflow above the hood starts to go the other direction, so like a vent near the windshield would actually draw air in. Actually making a duct will make your radiator and oil cooler work a lot better, which means you can make the opening on the front smaller, and you're really reducing lift/creating downforce. Not just from air going through the duct and up (and having energy added to it), but you're stopping all that air from just going out the bottom of the engine bay and wheel wells and generally creating lift on the front end. And whole car. The only downside is that it can make the engine bay hotter. I've heard of cars killing sensors and coilpacks and injectors and stuff from the extra heat when all the coolers are ducted and the engine bay is basically sealed off. But a little side duct to the manifold and harness and some extra speed holes and not having a full flat bottom and sealed off wheel wells should make that not an issue.
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Jan 4, 2019 08:33
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Whatever you do, please make a video (ala Vitamin J I believe) where you tape yarn all over your car and go for a random drive and then ask what it means. 
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Jan 4, 2019 17:49
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jamal posted:That seems plenty low enough to me. Fortunately there is a lot of space to work with. I think you're right about them being too far back, especially considering they are too far back to duct to. I'll sit in the garage and see what I can come up with. Suburban Dad posted:Whatever you do, please make a video (ala Vitamin J I believe) where you tape yarn all over your car and go for a random drive and then ask what it means. WHAT DOES IT MEAN (insert always sunny whiteboard picture here)
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Jan 4, 2019 19:43
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Snapping the 1 good parking brake cable. And I park on hills that are often enough to overcome the engine compression.  Gonna have to carry a big rock or something until I can swap the cables. At least I have them on hand, just been putting it off until I could afford to rent a lift (which has been pushed up to Monday).randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jan 5, 2019 |
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Jan 5, 2019 06:37
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Decided to remove my engine mount that I suspect is bad. It looks fine but: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5WWUFhnHw4 This is with minimal effort...
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Jan 5, 2019 20:51
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I washed and waxed my 2003 Subaru Baja today. The old girl was happy for the attention! (PS, she's an Army Veteran) 
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Jan 5, 2019 23:01
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And yeah, I'm weird. I fashioned one of my guitars to match the Subaru. :/
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Jan 5, 2019 23:02
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Jan 5, 2019 23:03
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Sparky2 posted:And yeah, I'm weird. Pvt. Rock
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Jan 5, 2019 23:05
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 I think one of my lines was crimped 90* out, gently caress.
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Jan 6, 2019 00:05
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   no fucks given car finally had the last gasket I needed changed done, which required removing the valve cover so it got a quick inspection at the same time. it’s a dirty loving sr20det but rockers/cams were in better condition than some of the others I have driven/beat on mercilessly. someone gave me a bodykit as well, I wasn’t keen on the effort because it’s a missile car but free parts are free parts so party pig is getting some lipstick
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Jan 7, 2019 05:06
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BlackMK4 posted:
Its an Oetiker clamp, so you could just get the clamps and the pliers tool and redo it.
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Jan 7, 2019 05:19
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I figured as much, I just wasn't sure if the push fitting / line prohibited doing that. Is it safe? Oil lines make me paranoid.
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Jan 7, 2019 05:25
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Dumb thought, do you have the line on backwards?
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Jan 7, 2019 14:16
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C-Bangin' it 
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Nah, I tried it both ways just in case it might fit though. Vendor should get back to me today, otherwise I will reclamp it (if it is safe)
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Jan 7, 2019 17:09
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I don't think you really can get pushlock hose off safely, so if there is enough extra you can cut and push the hose on again. I'd still leave it on the vendor if it truly their issue.
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Jan 7, 2019 17:13
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BlackMK4 posted:Nah, I tried it both ways just in case it might fit though. Vendor should get back to me today, otherwise I will reclamp it (if it is safe) Yeah meant no disrespect on your mechanical acumen, just when you get involved into a deep project you got focused and crap...yada yada so.. Anyways hope you get it solved my friend.
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Jan 7, 2019 17:43
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The idea of negativity crossed my mind, it was a completely valid idea
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Jan 7, 2019 17:49
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BlackMK4 posted:The idea of negativity crossed my mind, it was a completely valid idea Heh, thank you friend.
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Jan 7, 2019 18:05
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BlackMK4 posted:I figured as much, I just wasn't sure if the push fitting / line prohibited doing that. Is it safe? Oil lines make me paranoid. Might be able to get the new clamp over the fitting without removing it, thanks to the design of Oetiker clamps. I finally did a thing I've been trying to get around to for some time:   Just tacked in that picture. Fully welded and painted:    Full details over in my thread. Not quite Project Binky, but I'm happy with it, even with the messy flux-core welds.
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Jan 7, 2019 18:12
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DJ Commie posted:I don't think you really can get pushlock hose off safely, so if there is enough extra you can cut and push the hose on again. I'd still leave it on the vendor if it truly their issue. Yeah I don't think you can pull it back out, you'd have to cut it. With that said I'm in love with pushlock hose after rebuilding the fuel system on the C10 last year. It's so easy to work with and it's the first time I've ever put together any fuel system with zero leaks on the first try.
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Jan 7, 2019 21:15
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I got a class 3 Draw-Tite hitch and Thule bike rack for my Challenger for Christmas.   Looking forward to spring now, I haven't really ridden since I moved to NH.
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Jan 9, 2019 05:00
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Unf.  
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Jan 9, 2019 21:10
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Until I clicked the tiny pic this looked liked some vacuum cleaner from hell.
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Jan 9, 2019 21:46
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Getting a vision of a locomotive who had a psychotic break and now has nothing to live for
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Jan 9, 2019 21:47
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Getting a vision of a locomotive who had a psychotic break and now has nothing to live for CHOO CHOO BRAP BRAP MOTHERFUCKERS!
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Jan 9, 2019 21:53
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Suburban Dad posted:Hope this fixes it.   The only thing I can think of is maybe a leak at the throttle body gasket (TB has been off a few times to swap MAPs). It went 1000+ miles without throwing the CEL, so I thought I was in the clear. It popped on pulling into the garage tonight. When it's cold it has some pretty severe idle issues that I haven't been able to track down, but no hissing, (so I wasn't really thinking vacuum leak) (it idles perfect once it's been running about 5 minutes; I've been chalking the idle issues up to a dirty throttle body, but haven't bothered to actually check it or clean it yet). Unfortunately, I left my code reader in Dallas, so unless I can find my old one, I'm gonna have to have AutoZone pull codes tomorrow to confirm it's a MAP code (it could be evap; the car's got a bad case of the vapors thanks to the infamous plastic fuel pump line issue that plagues every Delta car eventually). Once I confirm it's another MAP code, I'll throw another MAP at it (since I have a pile of them), replace the TB gasket, and go over the intake tubes again. Also try some starter fluid around the base of the TB to make sure it's not warped. super late edit: my average mpg has skyrocketed since replacing the MAF, so it was definitely needing replacement anyway (note the trip odometer and fuel gauge... that's all delivery miles, with the old MAF it would have been down to ~1/3 or even 1/4 by now - my MPG has been 2-3 mpg higher per tank since replacing the MAF) extra edit: now that I think about it, I think I may have swapped the throttle body from the old Ion to this one.  I'm really not sure to be honest; I know I'd recently cleaned the TB on the old car before the wreck, and this one came with a filthy one... and I swapped a shitload of new/recently touched parts over before junking the old car. It's possible the TB may be warped, or just worn out, if it was swapped. If it did get swapped, that would put this TB at about 250k miles. It's definitely time to break out propane and propane accessories, and/or starter fluid.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 10, 2019 06:13
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Fuel pump installed but not wired today. Ran out of time. This was the hardest part of the install so I chose to do it first. Next time I’ll wire the pump and start installing the big hardware (manifold, carb etc.) and hopefully I’ll be done this weekend. 
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Jan 11, 2019 00:23
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You're gonna want to put some foam or something between that one line (the one held with zipties) and the two metal lines, unless you want to wear a hole through it.
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Jan 11, 2019 07:07
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STR posted:You're gonna want to put some foam or something between that one line (the one held with zipties) and the two metal lines, unless you want to wear a hole through it. Yeah, everything is sorta temporarily mocked up at the moment. I might cut a spare piece of hose to wrap around it as a shield. Might also get a 90 degree fitting for the inlet of the pump for better clearance, and put more rubber between the pump mount and the body for isolation since I’ve heard these Holley units can be pretty loud.
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Jan 11, 2019 12:23
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Progress: Old poo poo gone  Holley installed  Air cleaner lookin’ so clean  Then I had to custom “fab” a bracket for the FPR so the inlet would clear the firewall    Put a fuel pressure gauge in the mix  And all together for now. Only things left are to wire the pump, check for leaks and insulate some fuel lines by the pump. 
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Jan 11, 2019 22:48
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   I beat the poo poo out of it with assorted pastes, waxes and spinning foam. Everything cleans up real nice but I gotta figure out what to do with that grill.
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Jan 12, 2019 03:46
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Any ideas from anyone as to why my fuel pump wouldn’t be pulling fuel? It is mounted below the outlet of the tank and even when hotwired to run constantly pulls no fuel. Edit Holley red electric pump. Not supposed to have to prime it but might that help? Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jan 13, 2019 |
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Jan 13, 2019 00:03
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Do you have the inlet/outlet correct?
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Jan 13, 2019 00:15
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Dagen H posted:Do you have the inlet/outlet correct? Yup all the plumbing is good. Maybe I need to prime it, despite the instructions saying nothing about it?
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Jan 13, 2019 01:53
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Is there anything obstructing the outlet or inlet? Is there enough fuel in the tank? Is the wiring correct?
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Jan 13, 2019 01:57
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StormDrain posted:Is there anything obstructing the outlet or inlet? Is there enough fuel in the tank? Is the wiring correct? Wiring is correct, triple checked and not just by me. The pump runs, just doesn’t pull fuel. I might lower the pump on the strap mount a couple of inches, fill the tank to the tippy top, and prime the pump as well.
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Jan 13, 2019 03:00
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Please conclude it when you’re done! I have a Holley electric pump on my bench waiting to go in.
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Jan 13, 2019 03:16
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I decided since I have had the truck (2018 ram 3500 6.7 diesel) for 6 months it was time to change the oil according to the manual. Only 8800 miles on it, 40% life remaining but its under warranty so whatever. It wasn’t that bad. 3 gallons of 15w-40 and a cummins approved filter was only $50. The pan bolt is one of the new ones you stick a 3/8th ratchet into and it came off easily. Filter was put on by a gorilla at the factory but I had a wrench for it and a cap off tool that made it easy to get out through the wheel well. My problems started when I decided to do the fuel filters as well. For those that don’t own diesels, diesel fuel filters have to be changed far more frequently than gas filters. The injection systems run north of 20,000 psi so any contamination is a big deal. I usually do them with the oil. Ram uses 2 on a 6.7 cummins, one in the front driver side of the engine near the firewall and one in the rear above where the driveshaft meets the pinion. The filters are $100 a set. An oil change and both filters is a $450 service at the dealer so I felt I was really going to save some time and money. The front one was pretty easy. Except for the drain which dumps fuel all over the front axle and garage floor. Its a cartridge so you remove the cap and swap the cartridge, replace the o ring and your good to go. Since I already had diesel on the garage floor and given its position above the driveshaft I decided to just remove the rear filter canister and forgo trying to drain it. Would have worked great had I not dropped it on the way down. Diesel in my mouth, ears, eyes and hair. Whatever, no big deal, saving money, right? So I slammed the new filter on and started the truck. Only I forgot the loving gasket so diesel sprayed everywhere in the rear. I probably cranked and ran the truck for 2 minutes before I noticed the pool forming in the back. So now I had to lay in the pool of diesel and fix the fuckup. Its all in my clothes now, my jacket, jeans and shirt are soaked as is my hair and face. Should have stripped down but its 30F outside so gently caress that. Got the truck started again and looked for leaks. Back looks good but now its dripping out near the front because I pinched the o ring. So I got to do that one twice as well and the pool of diesel is getting even larger. Truck is finally mobile again, so I parked it on some fresh snow and swept up the diesel mess. There was still a couple drips out of the front but I can’t really tell if its residual or still leaking. I tried to clean the diesel out of my clothes by soaking them in the tub with some dish soap. It didn’t work and now my bathroom stinks like the garage. So I chucked the jeans in the washer and tossed the jacket outside. The washer stinks like diesel now too. I don’t think I will ever escape the smell.
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Jan 13, 2019 17:11
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this is pure ai right here and i feel ya bud even though i dont wrench remotely as good as most of you guys/ladies.
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Jan 13, 2019 17:17
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